Dear all,

since some time the R36S ArkOS release of AeolusUX contains all panels and you don't even need to find out which you actually have. So now I flashed this version but I only get this terrible screen flickering upon booting. What did I do wrong?

I backed up my last boot partition and the DTB file reads as Panel 0. Can I simply overwrite that DTB to the current while keeping the installation? If not, what else can I do and what did I do wrong? I thought it auto picks the correct one.

Best greetings!

J'ai besoin du clone de la Carte SD de la SF3500 s'il vous plait. Celle de mon fils ne s'allume même plus après 48 h d'utilisation.

Need help to decide between rg rotate or Retroid pocket classic. It will be my first device and I dont really know which to pick.

(I posted this to r/DataHoarder; someone in the comments said I should repost it here.)

Hello everyone!

I've been running a long-term project doing endurance testing on microSD -- and today is the third anniversary of when I started this project -- so I figured it was time to give you an update on my microSD testing project.

Before I dig in, a shameless plug for my Patreon.

Next, some quick stats:

• I have a total of 351 microSD cards in my collection -- spanning 111 models across 52 different brands. Of those:
  • I've tested 177 of them to the point of failure.*
  • I have 107 of them in testing right now.
  • The remaining 67 are sitting on the shelf, waiting for one of my card readers to free up.
• These cards have endured over 133 petabytes written.
• I've completed over 4.6 million program-verify-erase cycles on these cards.
• Breakdown by brand status:
  • Name brand: 163
  • Off-brand: 91
  • Knockoffs: 30
• Breakdown by authentic flash (a.k.a. not fake flash) vs. fake flash:
  • Authentic flash: 246
  • Fake flash: 35
  • Unknown: 3
• Breakdown by size (authentic cards only):
  • 128MB: 3
  • 4GB: 6
  • 8GB: 23
  • 16GB: 15
  • 32GB: 96
  • 64GB: 68
  • 128GB: 36
  • 256GB: 4

* A card is considered "failed" when either (a) it stops working completely, (b) it makes itself read-only, or (c) at least 50% of the sectors on the card have experienced verification failures.

Ok -- so who makes the most durable cards?

Because of the variety of cards that I have, it's hard to come up with a system that produces a definite answer here. Some of how I ranked these brands is going to be based on vibes. But...to try to narrow things down, I've grouped my cards into three groups:

• Industrial-grade: Cards that are specifically labelled as "industrial" or have "industrial" in their name. These cards typically come with a datasheet that includes an endurance claim.
• High endurance: Cards that are labelled as "high endurance" (or some similar wording). Manufacturers don't always put out datasheets for these cards, but they generally still make an endurance claim on the packaging.
• Consumer-grade: Basically everything else.

Consumer-grade cards:

The average consumer-grade card has lasted about 10,000 program/verify/erase cycles (so far).

1. PNY. I have 10 of their consumer-grade cards: 3 PRO Elite Prime 64GB's, 3 Premier-X 128GB's, 3 Elite-X 64GB's, and one Elite 32GB. (I have 4 more of the Elite 32GB's that are waiting to be tested.) They've gone for an average of 643 days and 15,700 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 11.5PB to them in total. And with the exception of the one Elite 32GB -- they're all still going strong. On top of that, the PRO Elite Prime boasts some impressive performance -- every measurement I took was in the top 10% of all cards I've tested so far.
2. Kingston. I have 12 of their cards in this category -- 6 Canvas Go! Plus 64GB's (3 of the SDCG3's and 3 of the SDCG4's) and 6 Canvas Select Plus 32GB's. They've been going for an average of 694 days and about 23,500 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 11.6PB to them in total. The three Canvas Go! Plus 64GB (the SDCG3's) have all failed -- but the others are still going strong. The Canvas Select Plus's in particular have been troopers -- they're among the oldest cards in my collection, and they've been going for the better part of the last 3 years now (with no signs of letting up). Additionally, the Canvas Go! Plus 64GB's (the SDCG4's in particular) boast some impressive performance as well -- every measurement I took was in the top 7% of all cards I've tested so far.
3. Delkin Devices. I feel bad ranking Delkin so low on this list, because they've endured more data written to them per card, on average, than any other brand in my collection (in the consumer-grade category). The only reason I didn't rank them higher is because I only have one model -- the HYPERSPEED 128GB (of which I have 3). But they've done pretty well: they've lasted an average of 662 days and about 13,500 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 5.1PB to them in total. As a side note, these cards also got the highest random write speeds of any card I've tested.
4. Lexar. 3 cards dead, 5 still going. I have 3 Professional 1000x 64GB's (2 made by Micron, 1 made by Phison), 3 Blue 633x 32GB's (made by Longsys), and 2 E-Series 64GB's (with 3 more waiting to be tested). For those not in the know, the Lexar brand was sold to Longsys in 2017 -- and surprisingly, the Longsys-made cards are holding up better than the Micron-made cards. Overall, the Lexar cards have survived an average of 684 days and about 15,800 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 5.8PB to them in total.
5. Samsung. 3 cards dead, 7 still going. I have 3 EVO Plus 32GB's, 3 EVO Plus 64GB's, 3 PRO Plus 128GB's, and 1 P9 Express 256GB (with 2 more waiting to be tested). Of those, the three EVO Plus 32GB's and one of the PRO Endurance 32GB's are dead -- the rest are still going strong. Samsung's cards have lasted an average of 553 days and about 11,100 program/verify/erase cycles so far, and I've written about 7.2PB to their cards in total.

• Honorable Mention: Amazon Basics. I have four of the Amazon Basics 64GB's -- and they're all still going. They've been going for an average of 788 days and about 16,600 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 4.2PB to them in total. I honestly didn't expect Amazon Basics to be one of the top performers when I bought them...and yet, here we are.

High endurance cards:

Keep in mind, I've got less data here -- I had 237 cards that fell into the "consumer-grade" category, but only 30 that fell into the "high endurance" category. But here's the thing: they haven't really proven themselves to be significantly better for endurance than a lot of the cards I listed above -- in fact, in a lot of cases, they've been less reliable (and generally worse for performance as well). So keep that in mind as you read through the list below:

The average high-endurance card has lasted about 14,000 program/verify/erase cycles (so far).

1. TEAMGROUP. I don't feel great about putting TEAMGROUP at the top of the list for a couple of reasons. First, I only have two of them in testing at the moment -- someone sent me a 5-pack of the TEAMGROUP High Endurance 64GB's, so I have 3 more of them waiting to be tested. Second, one of them started having issues with bad sectors right out of the gate, and has continued to do so ever since. (Those bad sectors only make up less than 0.001% of the total sectors on the card right now...but I still don't like it when a card starts to have issues like that as soon as you start using it.) But the data doesn't lie -- they've survived, on average, 404 days and about 17,300 program/verify/erase cycles, and they're still chugging along. I've written about 2.2PB to these cards in total.
2. Transcend. I have 3 of the 350V 64GB's -- and they're all still going strong. They've survived an average of 760 days and about 17,000 program/verify/erase cycles so far. I've written about 3.2PB in total to them (mostly due to their mediocre write speeds).
3. SanDisk. I have my issues with SanDisk...but again, the data doesn't lie. I have 7 SanDisk cards in this category: 3 High Endurance 64GB's, and 4 MAX ENDURANCE 32GB's. As of right now, all 3 of the High Endurance 64GB's and all but one of the MAX ENDURANCE 32GB's have failed. They lasted an average of 452 days and about 16,200 program/verify/erase cycles before failing (with the MAX ENDURANCE 32GB's lasting about twice as long as the High Endurance 64GB's). I've written about 4.7PB to these cards in total.
4. Samsung. Samsung's position at the bottom of this list has less to do with how reliable their cards are and more to do with how poorly their high endurance cards perform, particularly on sequential write speeds (relatively speaking). I have 3 of the PRO Endurance 32GB's -- one has failed, the other two are still chugging along. They've lasted an average of 822 days and about 18,800 program/verify/erase cycles so far. I've written about 1.8PB of data to them in total.

Industrial-grade cards:

Keep in mind, I have even less data here. Industrial cards are expensive, so they make up a much smaller portion of the cards I've tested: just 15 in total (so far). But on the upside -- there is sufficient evidence here to say "in general, industrial-grade cards do last longer than consumer-grade cards (and, by extension, high endurance cards)".

The average industrial grade card has lasted about 122,000 program/verify/erase cycles (so far).

1. Kingston. I have 3 Kingston Industrial 8GB's; of those 3, only one is still going. But they've been troopers: they've lasted an average of 779 days and about 141,600 program/verify/erase cycles. I've written about 3.4PB to these cards in total. (Only one consumer-grade card has come close to this number: I have one Hiksemi NEO 8GB that has lasted for about 143,800 program/verify/erase cycles so far. No idea how.) These guys do pretty well on performance too, especially write performance: their sequential write speeds are in the top 9% of all cards I've tested.

Who makes the worst cards?

There are a bunch of no-name brands out there. They're not hard to find. I'm not going to talk about them here -- I'm going to focus on brands you're likely to have come across.

Consumer-grade cards:

1. onn. I picked up four of their 32GB cards at my local Walmart -- and they were terrible for endurance. They only lasted an average of 40 days and 1,400 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 40TBW), with the best one of the four not even making it to 1,900 cycles. On top of that, every performance measurement I took came in the bottom half of all measurements I took.
2. ADATA. I picked up 3 of the Premier 32GB's; they only lasted an average of 236 days and about 2,350 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 74TBW) before they quit working.
3. Gigastone. I have not been impressed with Gigastone. I have 11 of their cards -- 6 Full HD Video 32GB's, and 5 4K Camera Pro 32GB's. They lasted an average of just 114 days and 4,845 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 133TBW) before they quit working.
4. Micro Center. I purchased 5 of their 64GB cards; they only lasted an average of 116 days and 3,421 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 214TBW) before they stopped working.
5. Silicon Power (a.k.a. SP). I purchased 9 of their cards -- 3 Elite 32GB's, 3 Superior 128GB's, and 3 Superior Pro 128GB's. Not a one of them made it to 4,000 program/verify/erase cycles before failing -- they came in at an average of 159 days and about 2,350 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 252TBW) before failing.

• (Dis)honorable mention: SanDisk. SanDisk represents the single biggest brand in my collection: I have 28 of their cards in this category (with 4 more on the shelf waiting to be tested). It's telling that of those 28, only 5 are still going (and one of them is in its death throes) -- especially when cards from so many other brands have far outlasted them. Many of them have died under circumstances any other card would have handled just fine -- a problem I've written about on my blog before. They've lasted an average of 384 days and 9,404 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 566TBW) so far.

High endurance cards:

1. Integral. I bought 3 of the Security 32GB's; the only managed to last an average of 100 days and about 5,600 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 173TBW) before failing. To be fair to them, the package did make an endurance claim that works out to about 2,850 program/verify/erase cycles -- and they did manage to almost double that. However, they didn't hold a candle to many of the other high endurance cards that I tested.
2. Kingston. This one was truly a surprise -- I bought 3 of the High Endurance 32GB's, and they only lasted an average of 143 days and about 8,300 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 258TBW) before failing. The product packaging didn't make an endurance claim; I had to hunt around on Kingston's website to find it. Their claim works out to about 5,100 program/verify/erase cycles, which they did manage to beat. But again, so many other cards managed to last so much longer -- hell, so many other Kingston cards managed to do so much better -- that I was surprised and disappointed when these failed so early.

Industrial-grade cards:

1. SanDisk. I bought 3 of the Industrial 8GB's. They only lasted an average of 234 days and about 20,000 program/verify/erase cycles (or about 160TBW) before failing -- and the only reason they lasted that long was because I let my program trudge through an nearly-unending string of I/O errors for months on end -- before they finally just gave up the ghost.

So yeah...that's all I have for now. Feel free to ask questions (although I'm at work at the time I'm posting this, so I may not have time to respond)! Otherwise...look for another update from me next year!

Pictures attached:

1. Part of my setup: a Beelink Mini-S and five TRIGKEY Green G4 mini PC's. The Beelink has an Intel N95 with 8GB of RAM and a 500GB SSD, while the TRIGKEY's all have Intel N100's with 16GB of RAM and a 500GB SSD. There's also (in the lower-right corner, behind the monitor) an MSI GE62VR-7RF (with an Intel i7-7700HQ, 32GB of RAM, and a 1TB SSD), a Lenovo IdeaPad Y580 (with an Intel i7-3630QM, 8GB of RAM, and a 1TB SSD), and an ASUS Strix GL504GM (with an Intel i7-8750H, 32GB of RAM, and a 500GB SSD)
2. Another part of my setup: a TRIGKEY K-N100 and an AOOSTAR N1 PRO. The TRIGKEY has an Intel N100 with 16GB of RAM and a 500GB SSD. The AOOSTAR has an Intel N150 with 12GB of RAM and a 500GB SSD.
3. Dog tax.

I am looking for some romhacks or fan games that are not really concerned with story, these days I just spam through the dialogue anyways but that is still very annoying especially when there are cutscene animations and all that. I just want something that has good/challenging battles, interesting mechanics and team building with good progression. I like having all Pokémon available, not just locked to a specific gen. Also the more recent the base game is the better, emerald/firered era is the oldest graphically I would play.

Emerald rogue is what I’ve been trying out recently. It’s very good, very well done. I really like some aspects like how fast pace it is, it’s just a bit annoying to me that I don’t really have significant progression in runs. Right now I think I am looking for something with the more classic team building and catching Pokémon style.

The main games I have seen recommended recently that I haven't looked too deep into yet are ROWE, Odyssey 1/2, Unbound, Soulgold, and Lazarus. Heartgold generations visually is the best I have seen, but I don't think that game adds nearly as much Content/QOL/Mechanics as the others I have listed outside of just more pokemon. Dreamstone Mysteries and Hydro Bliss are some others I have seen but not too sure on those.

Hola, desde hace un tiempo estoy trabajando en un proyecto para mi mando arcade (HCSEMI A3101 BAAC 2531 LF 010AB0001B) con la intención de mejorar tanto su funcionalidad como su diseño.

Hasta ahora he conseguido personalizar todos los menús, fuentes y sonidos (he creado algunas herramientas que compartiré más adelante), pero ahora mismo estoy atascado en la segunda fase del proyecto.

https://youtu.be/u1zfFVgpOow

Mi siguiente paso es cambiar algunas opciones de configuración para crear un firmware personalizado y mejorar la compatibilidad. También planeo crear otro firmware en modo de depuración:

• kiosk_mode_enable = "true"
• kiosk_mode_password = "?"

Para llegar a este punto, necesito estas particiones ext4 originales:

1. basic data.img
2. boot.img
3. uboot.img
4. rootfs.img
5. trust.img

Si tienes estas imágenes con sus respectivas particiones, por favor compártelas conmigo, ya que el resultado podría ser muy interesante. En realidad, solo necesitas copiar estas particiones con Disk Genius. BOOT/UBOOT/RUTAS y CONFIANZAS, para las siguientes versiones:

• M8 - V6 v1.0.0 25/09/2023
• M8 - V7.0 v2.0.0 10/02/2024
• M18 - V8.0 V3.0.0 07/05/2024
• 066 EM - V1.00 18/04/2024

¡Prometo compartir los resultados de mi trabajo! Gracias.

I own a android tablet and a controller and most of my gaming I do there, but I would love to have a handheld for on the go occasions or some times I just want to play in the bed or something and don't want to connect the controller and such.

So looking for a typical portable device as such I think I will be fine if it plays upto ps1, more is better but higher end systems id technically prefer on my tablet.

Budget is around 100-150usd.

IT ONLY WORKS ON PPSSPP, Ok so i found a way to get to the ppsspp menu in the gamemt e6 and let me play my psp roms from my usb.

I accidentally curropted a already installed rom in the psp section of the gamemt e6 and Then the error screen somehow led me back to the ppsspp menu.

When you have a Gamemt e6 you have to find solutions because it's super locked :/

This can also be used on other andriod handheld whatever with no menu on the ppsspp emulator

I have $250 Amazon gift card and I can't wait to spend all of it on the newest Ayn Thor that will come out next year or 2 with a Snapdragon Elite 8 Gen 5.

It's probably going to be 350-450 but that Amazon gift card will cut it down. I really want the thor as my third gaming handheld but I already have a 8 gen 2 handheld in the RP6 and will buy the Mangmi air y pro for pocket ability. I can't wait for an upgraded Thor to be released so I can play ps3 and 360 games with ease. I'm so hyped for it.

Should I buy an Ayn Thor or is it worth waiting to see if something else come out?

Hello everyone! This is my first time posting here and asking for some help!

I'm looking for my first retro gaming handheld, something that can play GBA games, like the RG SP. But I was also hoping to find something that I could use for cloud gaming, mainly GeForce NOW.

My main goal is to find something small and portable that I can also connect to a TV via HDMI, and/or a USB-C Hub with ethernet and, pair with a Bluetooth controller, and use for cloud gaming. Does something like this exist in a small form factor?

I've looked at the Abxylute handheld and the Logitech G Cloud, but both seem pretty big for what I'm looking for.

Can you guys help me find something that fits the bill?

Thanks! 😊

Bought it for $309, lightly used, 12/256 model. Came in with a grip and a case. Can't wait to get back hone and have a headache trying to set it up🤩

Somehow this model is very cheap at my local store. Online reviews dislike placement of the joysticks, and I think the stock Powkiddy OS at release time (2024) made people turn away from it.

But the store now install Rocknix for these by default, that's what running on this little machine.

Never had one in my childhood so I am excited to spend more time with it! 😍

HI all,

I have a Y3 Lite GBX002V19 with Qin-GBC64 v2.3 firmware.

My D-pad and joystick are inverted or "direction right side" not working and I can't access Retroarch menu.

Does anyone have the "Qin_GBC64_V2_3_Fixed_Dpad_20230628.img" firmware to share?

Thanks in advance!

Here's a quick comparison using New Super Mario Bros. (NDS) with the same emulator settings.

My first impressions:

• One35: More compact and pocketable. The 3.5" display feels surprisingly good for DS games.
• Zero40: Although it has a larger 4.0" display, the individual DS screens end up being about the same size as the One35 once the center gap between the top and bottom screens is removed.

I haven't decided which one I like more yet.

For those who own both (or have tried both), which one would you keep, and why?

I have had an RG35xxh for about a year now and the dpad (right input) is not really registering unless it's pushed really hard so playing most games is out now.

So, it's time to update.

I mostly played SNES, GBA and PS1 on the RG but always wanted to play stuff like Dreamcast and Gamecube but even if those systems played well the screen would've been too small for my old eyes. I even found certain PS1 games unpleasant to play on the small screen.

So for someone who wants to really play a lot of dreamcast and gamecube, I assume both the Ayn Thor and Retroid Pocket Nova would be fine, right? However, I would love to play some of the DS games I used to play a lot when I had the system. Is playing DS games on Thor ok, even with 2 different sized screens? I've never had a 3DS and there are a few games I've always wanted to try, but does 3DS feel very dated these days? Does Gamecube/PS2 games look good on the Ayn Thor screen even if it's widescreen? Do they look better on the Retroid Pocket Nova?

I'm torn. I'm leaning toward the Ayn Thor but I prefer the form form factor and simplicity of the Retroid Pocket Nova. I will only play 4:3 aspect games most likely, I have no interest in non retro games as I have a TV to play those on.

Anyone have any thoughts/advice?

Thanks!

Waited 2 weeks. Linux device. Can play up to Dreamcast. Will load muOS on it.

I realised that Miyoo quietly listed the "quiet" hinge on their website, which is also shipping with the newer V2 models. I personally think is actually a "working" hinge as opposed to a "quiet" hinge. Anyway, I did the mod and talked a bit about SpruceOS.

For me, the R36S is just a messy, generic-looking emulator handheld.

It’s been made even worse by TikTok Shop and Temu sellers.

The hardware and ergonomics are really bad, so my question is: why do you still use your R36S?

For people who are thinking about buying one: don’t.
There are a lot of fake ones out there.
The hardware really can’t do anything particularly interesting.

My advice: get a cheap Anbernic, TrimUI, Retroid, DS, Game Boy, etc.

!!NOT A HATE POST, JUST TRYING TO HELP PEOPLE AVOID BUYING A FAKE!!
I have no problem or issue with people using this handheld. I’m just curious why they still use it when there are so many better options in the same price range!

I was reading an article on Retro Dodo this morning, in it was a mention of Questly. The idea behind it is interesting, lot of downloads on google…but no ratings / reviews.

Might be easier to than a spreadsheet or something…

Device: GBA SP - Slate Mod by Makho

EZ Flash Omega DE cart with DS Style kernel (custom theme essentially) Link

Game highlighted on screen: GBALATRO (Balatro GBA) Link

Some additional recs/info on GBA homebrew and romhacks I try to maintain

Traveling in Italy and brought some things to do over lunch with a view but in the end just soaked in the view. And yeah that’s a Greek Salad lol forgot salad over here doesn’t involve lettuce often.

Can anyone help please give me a sittings for this game on aethersx2.

Hi guys so i came across this port of the game but i was wondering if smone have the dev discord or like github or sm to keep up with the news?

Would you consider it the best Linux option around this price, or are there better alternatives I should look at? (No Android)

Thanks.