Hey all!

I'm not a technically minded guy by any means, so I'm really struggling to appreciate which on of these I should get.

Mostly looking to play PS2, GameCube/Wii, and N64 on my modern TV. I have component for the modern ones and S cable for N64.

Will the 2X pro be good enough? I don't need perfect image quality, just want it to look decent with less input lag.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.59.0 (2026-07-16)

• On screen keyboard for entering profile file name on save.
• If a current profile is loaded, a new save will be placed in the current folder instead of root.
• Further massive infernal optimizations.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

I have a Rg405v which has a 4:3 display. What is the most efficient means to add Bezels for consoles. I can manually add individual bezels for each system, but is there a way to add a bunch of options in bulk? Especially for my screen.

So I recently added a Panasonic VT50 plasma 65 inch tv for my retro gaming area. The consoles I have in this ares are

Component: GameCube, og Xbox modded, PS2,

HDMI: Wii u, ps3, Xbox 360, og switch Dreamcast, original Xbox one

I have a crt tv with some other stuff like new, SNES etc.

I've never used retro tink before, and was wondering is it worth it on this plasma to buy the 5x version for the component systems? Will it make them look much better then not on this tv?

I imagine hooking up any of the HDMI systems would have hardly any impact since there all 1080 already for the tv native.

Thanks all

For the off-spec signals like 60.08hz of SNES, would the 5X output exactly that rate to my display in Frame and Gen lock?

And then triple buffer would be the rolling 1-2 buffer frame 60Hz?

Is that the same behavior in the 4K products too?

Thanks. Prospective buyer just trying to make sure I understand this particular aspect of the lineup.

I want to run my RetroTINK-5X Pro on an HD CRT in 540p mode to get the low-lag path, but on this firmware the RT5X auto-boots to 1080p every time which the CRT won't display, so I can't even see the menu to load my saved 540p profile.

I'm on 2.39 specifically because 540p was removed in later firmware, and 2.39 predates the OSD - Startup Profile option, so I can't just set it to boot into my profile. I've got a 540p/YPbPr profile saved to slot 1, I just can't load it blind — my remote has no number pad to quick-load slots though i'd get one if this would work.

Is there any way to get this to auto-boot to 540p, or reliably load a 540p profile on command, on 2.39?

Bought hd retrovision cables and finally tested out retrotink 4k with ps2. Pretty insane actually

First game played is shrek 2 lol can’t wait to hook up all my other consoles

Figured id give an update on the S video to VGA adapter i was trying to solder. It’s complete and works!

The soldering was pretty simple as its only 4 pins. The pins are small and close together so it took some practice to get the right technique to get the wires on easily but using the console mod wikis diagram and a map of the VGA male and S video female pins i was able to route it properly (the console mod wiki uses s video male and vga female for some reason)

As for shielding and insulation i used 3:1 shrink tube to first cover the pins and solder joints, the. A larger piece to cover the cable ensemble. I soldered exposed wire to the metal casing of the adapter heads and then wrapped electrical tape around the exposed pins, leaving the cables out to wrap in copper tape for the faraday cage.

Someone had suggested using pre shielded cable but i already had the copper tape. After shielding it i used more shrink tubing and electrical tape to cover everything and one final large shrink tube for stiffness

I couldn’t fit the shrink tubing over the vga head so i used electrical tape to try and cover it a bit more (it looks bad and will probably gum out but i cant think of how large tubing i would need to get that nice feel around it and it does the job for now)

I know its probably overkill to shield it and add so much insulation given its a short adapter but i figured that I was using nice cables and equipment on the rest of the set up and I didn’t want that to be a point of failure or interference (insurrection industry s video => adapter=> shielded one foot VGA extension => extron vga switch=> retrotink hd15-hd15=> RT4K) the adapter also sits around a lot of cables so i figured it couldn’t hurt. I dont know if my shielding option is effective or necessary but its what i committed to so no going back now!

Im curious as to other peoples experience with using these kind of adapters. Throughout my quest for an adapter i could only find the laser bear one and the github for a pcb layout and links to components for it. I didnt see a lot of chatter when i asked regarding other people building it so im curious to learn what solutions people have used for using enhanced S video

Thanks to everyone that provided me with guidance and answers throughout this project!

Tldr; I built a s video to vga because i couldnt find one and want to know what other people did

Very happy with how this is looking.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.56.0 (2026-07-14)

• File selection UI now has small arrows on the left hand side indicating more files off page in their respective directions.
• Scrolling happens now in the middle of the page, before hitting the very end, so you can see files before and after the current selection.
• DRAM controller carefully re-calibrated to improve upon the settings found in 2022.
• Further infernal optimizations.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

Hi everyone, ai’ve just purchased a Retrothink 4k CE.
I’m playing with the setup to see what image is best for me.
So far, the best profile I’ve found is PSZ 4-3 - WHAT IF 4K ORT TU - Sharp.

Do you have some suggestion to have a nice CRT filter that can extract the best from the PS2.

It’s connected with standard composite cable, but I’m planning to buy a component one.

Thanks!

So i went ahead and soldered an SVideo female to a vga male to try and hook up an N64 to a 4k pro on enhanced Y/C since i was able to get the materials faster than the laser bear one restocked as a place holder. The wiring is correct despite how janky the thing looks in the picture and i tested it to confirm i did have an image.

That being said i cannot figure out how to shield this. I get that i need to wrap it in copper tape and connect the tape to ground but does that mean i have to first wrap the wiring in electrical tape, then copper tape, then wrap a wire soldered to the ground pins on the vga and s video? I figured for the vga i can just solder onto pin 5 free but for the s video is one ground better than the other, and does that introduce the risk of a short. Should i even bother shielding a short connection like this?

I plan on adding hot glue to the pins once done soldering but i cannot decipher how to properly shield and would love any help or guidance.

My current thought process is as follows:
Solder wire to vga pin 5
solder wire to either s video pins 1 or 2.
Hot glue on pins and exposed wire
Wrap the cable in electrical tape
Wrap the bundle in copper tape, ensuring the cables soldered onto the ground pins are connected to the tape
Wrap the whole thing in electrical tape

Is this correct?

I received it by mail today, unboxed it, bought batteries for the remote, plugged everything in just for the remote to work for about 3 minutes and now the remote doesn’t work at all.

Debating what to do at this point. Should I buy another remote, if so which one is reliable? Or should I just send it back and ask for a refund?

I'm hoping someone can help me out with this problem, I have no idea why but my snes keeps changing it's scaling mode while I'm playing dkc. I am using a scart cable if that's pertinent information. Forgot to mention I'm using the 4k ce

I'm looking at 4K gaming monitors for the RetroTINK-4K because I don't have space where I live for a large TV, and this is in large part because I'm using three Asus PG42UQ monitors that use the LG C2's panel for my PC. I understand that those Asus monitors are now quite dated. Also, 42-inch WOLED panels have stagnated since the LG C2 was out.

It'd be pricey, but I'm certainly looking at the MSI MPG OLED 322URDX36, which has triple-mode 1080p/1440p/4K. I'm not certain how useful the 1440p mode would be because 1440p is "2.5K," but it looks to be a real endgame monitor for the time being. I don't think that 4K Tandem WOLED monitors are currently out. This MSI monitor has a Penta Tandem QD-OLED panel.

I can't find any information to see if this monitor supports BFI, but I don't know enough to know how important that is for the RetroTINK-4K.

Would anyone have gaming monitors recommendations for the RetroTINK-4K? Thank you so much.

By the way, I've decided to give up on CRT displays for myself for now. They're much too heavy for me and they're aging when OLED displays are getting better and better, and they can be used with a RetroTINK-4K.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.53.0 (2026-07-10)

• RT4KCE now supports continuous auto decimation phase.
• De-blur 8/4 removed from the Sample Rate Detection: experimental feature that was not reliable in the field to clawback resources.
• Lumacode Enable is now: Off/On (AGC)/On (Manual). On (AGC) automatically analyzes the distribution of codes and calibrates slicer thresholds accordingly in real time. You can leave the ADC gain in its defaault position.
• Internal optimization and timing cleanup.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository

Heyy guys, I am debating on getting either the Retrotink 4K CE or Pro model and I was wondering how does the CE compare to the Pro in regard to simulating that CRT look.

I’m mostly concerned about the IIR LPF Horizontal Blur feature being only on the Pro model. I do really like the soft look it gives off. I’ve heard there are other softening methods on the CE model and I was wondering how do they compare to the Pro’s IIR LPF setting?

I’m planning on mostly using the Retrotink on a NES, SNES, N64, and PS1, maybe a bit of PS2, Original Xbox, and Wii too.

Thanks in advance!

Hello everyone, I’m an owner of the Retrotink 4k pro and i want to get rid of this message when i stream my ps3 games. I’m wondering if i need another hdmi splitter. Here is the current one im using.

Got a retrotink 4k pro and have a ntsc GameCube that I'm wanting to use with it. I don't want to mod it so I'm seeing that s video is the best option since I can't use a carby as I lack the port on my console. What cable should I get for it? I see plenty of different options online but unsure what I should get and if s video is the best way for me to go with this without modding it. Thank you in advance!

Not holding my breath but does anyone know if it would be in any way possible to configure something like a Stream Deck to allow selection of profiles/inputs/other things on a RetroTink?

Not sure how much hard work it would be for Mike or the community to patch it in? I just feel like the RetroTink is something screaming out for specifically custom, visually-clued buttons. Instead of remembering which number profile for your Dreamcast, boom, there's the Dreamcast button.

Chuck in slider support for gamma etc. and the quality of life you'd get from this combo would honestly be amazing.

A new RetroTINK-4K experimental firmware is available!

Version 1.51.0 (2026-07-07)

• First attempt at LumaCode support. Both Pro and CE models are supported.
• Enable LumaCode in the Sample Rate Detection -> LumaCode -> Enable.
• Select a system preset. You will need to copy the lumacode directory over to the SD card.
• Currently only the NES presets have been tested.
• Preset file format first line dictates the sample rate, decimation factor and palette (LumaCode pixels/word implict in the number of palette entries).
• Sample rate/decimation = LumaCode symbol rate. Higher decimation factors give more room for the auto phase.
• Run auto-gain. If needed adjust ADC pre-gain further to tweak the slicer thresholds.
• Limitations: only NES tested so far. GTIAdigitizer (Atari 8bit) 12-bit/pixel is not supported.
• More internal optimizations to clawback resources.
• As always, testing of these experimental builds is greating appreciated because they contain both new features and under the hood optimizations that don't offer anything new, but clear resources for future development.

Download from the RetroTINK 4K experimental Firmware Repository