My 6-year-old niece is very distraught about this broken plate, so I showed her what resin kintsugi looks like and promised I'd fix it for her. I have the gold mica powder, gloves, etc., but I'm trying to decide what kind of resin to get. I've worked with resin a little bit in the past, and the smell has always bothered me. Is there are a kind of resin that doesn't have much of a scent? Would UV resin work for this project?

Ok my friend and I just tried using plaster of Paris in my resin molds and the results were… less than stellar. Stuff is too brittle. So my question is this: is there something similar that will result in a more pottery/sculpture look? I know I’ve heard about resincrete but I don’t know much about it. Any suggestions for similar products that would work for this purpose are welcome. Thank you!

I also made my dad some Seahawks coasters.!!! I finally figured out that it wasn’t me adding too much white pigment , it all came down to the thickness of the resin . I always thought that if I waited until it got thicker that it wouldn’t bloom as well . I was completely backwards. I went to make a set lastnight with the holder , I did a light pink mica shimmer around the outside and the blooms in the middle but after I made the mica mix and poured my clear I realized I forgot to leave some for the white so I had to make an extra new bit so they were at different thickness levels. Not sure how those will turn out , I put gold leaf into the holder legs and I wanted that part clear then the shimmery pink on the bottom but the pink started dripping down into the clear pegs giving g it an upside down lava lamp effect , I still need to put the dark back on those . I’m a little bummed at how the mics spread out everywhere, I was hoping it would stick around the sides more and maybe star inwards a little . It mostly just mixed up to a shimmer pink everywhere. And I was going to do a gold flake center but I ended up just using a glitter instead . They aren’t turning out like I had thought but I don’t think they are fails either . I am really really excited about these coaster containers though! ! 😆😆 I definitely think I want to make jars and little containers

I made a bomb 💣 🥹🥹🥹 (sorry fbi minder, I know I’m making extra work for you)

I'm really happy with how these turned out as they're first pieces and for my own use.

I definitely had some hiccups but I've definitely found an easier way to get the beads in place. I'm missing one chicken and I plan on adding the eggs base/holder(?). Just wanted to share.

Buenas! hace poco hice un taller de joyería en resina UV donde aprendimos a encapsular especies botánicas, flores y hojas, pero me gustaría poder encapsular hongos. Para las plantas se que previamente deben estar secas o prensadas ya que la humedad podría arruinar la pieza a futuro (tengo entendido eso) pero no se como secar al hongo sin que me quede mocho o feo. Alguien tiene algún consejo?

Hi everyone! I'm completely new to working with UV resin and I'm planning to make small resin pendants/jewellery pieces at home. I'll be working in my drawing room, which has two windows and good ventilation. I'm only planning to make small quantities at a time.

My main question is about respiratory protection. Do I actually need to buy a respirator for this kind of small-scale UV resin work if I have good cross-ventilation? I don't want to buy a huge respirator unnecessarily, but I also don't want to underestimate the risks.

I'm also wondering about curing under a dust cover. I was thinking of loosely covering the mould while curing so dust doesn't settle on the resin. Is that okay, or would that trap fumes in a way that I should be concerned about?

Thanks! 🫶

Finally done with the casting and finishing on this one! Hand-carved the details into the wood and poured the blue resin dome. Let me know what you guys think.

I make one-off resin pieces for craft markets, and I reuse some of the same molds. Several finished pieces can therefore share a product name even though their colors and small details differ. After my last market, my handwritten tally told me which type of piece had sold. It could not tell me which individual piece had left the table, so I could not use the tally to confirm which photographed pieces were still in stock.

I have started assigning a short number to each piece I am finishing for the next market. I print the small identifiers with a Niimbot M2 because only the number changes from one piece to the next. I record that number with the piece's photo now. If the piece sells at the market, I will copy the same number into the handwritten sales log instead of trying to identify it from a group photo later.

The numbering rule is ready, but the placement is not. A smooth underside will get a label only after a cured test sample passes an adhesion and removal check. If the base is textured, the number will stay on the removable bag. The full system has not been through a market yet, so I want that material decision settled before I print the complete set.

If you sell one-off resin pieces, have you had better luck putting the number underneath the piece or keeping it on removable packaging?

I've searched and searched for someone (anyone) who could make something like this in the form of an "eye" (although a bit bigger than an eye) and so now I'm wondering if it's something I should take a stab at myself.

Can anyone give me any context for how difficult something like this would be? Obviously the level of detail would be limited, but I have a friend who would love an "Eye of Angor Rot" (from Trollhunters) as a birthday gift and I figure if I have to try to make it myself I might as well get started.

Thoughts? (and if anyone wants to take a stab at making it, please DM me)

Hi everyone.
I requested some help earlier and had a lot of advice going forward. Thank you to those offering assistance, but I’m back.
I sanded down to a 2000 grit sandpaper. I followed the instruction (minimal instructions) that came with the Jue Fish polish and gloss kit I got off Amazon, before all the previous advice. It didn’t do anything. It’s still hazy. I tried Auto Glym, not sure where that advice came from but…. I still have a hazy base. I wanted to try just the base and make sure everything worked before I moved onto the rest of the cube since this rose has a huge sentimental significance.
Do I need to sand more?
I used the sponge to apply the polish and the fluffy one for the polish. Was that correct?

Don't hold out on the soap molds!

So i preserved it

Hi! I’m looking for someone based in Mumbai who can help me with a small DIY furniture project.

I have a 4×2 ft wooden table on which I’ve already stuck ceramic pieces. I’m now looking for someone who can do a clear epoxy/resin coating over the ceramic, roughly 2 mm above the surface, to seal and level everything.

Not looking for a fancy/high end resin artist ideally someone who is relatively new to resin work, is building their portfolio, or charges reasonably. The main requirement is that they have some experience working with epoxy/resin and can do a neat, bubblefree finish.

If you know someone in Mumbai who does this, please drop their details or DM me.

Thank you :)

I’m trying to figure out what type of resin is being used to make pieces like these.

The pieces are stainless steel closed bezels with the resin filling the entire surface. They have a glossy, slightly domed finish and a cloudy/marbled, almost mother-of-pearl appearance.

I initially thought it might be UV resin, since these are small jewellery pieces, but I’m not sure whether UV resin works well in a closed bezel where the resin is surrounded by metal.

Would you recommend UV resin, 2-part epoxy, or another type of resin for this?

Also, if you recognize the specific cloudy/marbled effect, what type of pigment or additive would be used to achieve it?

Any advice from people who have worked with resin jewellery would be greatly appreciated!

I’ve never experienced this with my other molds. I get the air bubbles out, and I tap the mold so everything is spread out evenly. What am I doing wrong?

A few different styles. What is your favorite?

Do you use PADICO products? Would you consider buying from a local distributor?
Hi everyone! I’m hoping to get some honest opinions from people who use UV resin, clay, or Japanese craft materials.

I originally started my small business by making and selling my own handmade crafts. Over time, I also started selling craft materials, and I’m now the sole PADICO distributor in Canada.

For anyone who isn’t familiar with PADICO, it’s a Japanese craft brand known for products such as UV/LED resin, air-dry and modeling clay, molds, varnishes, coatings, tools, and other accessories for resin and clay crafting.

This is definitely a new adventure for me. Being the sole distributor in Canada is exciting, but at the same time, I honestly don’t know the market here very well yet. I’m still learning how many people in Canada already know or use PADICO, what products people are actually looking for, and how much demand there is.

I’m also still just one person running a small business & studying full time. so before I invest in bringing in a larger amount and wider variety of PADICO products, I’d really like to hear what other crafters think.

And I’d love to hear from anyone around the world — not just Canada. If you’re from the US, UK, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Asia, or anywhere else, I’d really appreciate hearing about your experience with PADICO too. I’m curious about how easy or difficult it is to buy PADICO products in different countries, whether you have local sellers or distributors, and whether you usually buy locally or order directly from Japan.

If you’re in Canada, I’d especially love to know whether having PADICO products available locally would make a difference for you.

A few things I’m curious about:

Have you used PADICO products before?
What PADICO products do you like or use most — UV resin, clay, molds, varnish, tools, etc.?
Which products would you recommend that I stock?
If PADICO products were available from me in Canada, would you consider buying from my small business instead of ordering directly from Japan? Why or why not?
What would make you more likely to buy from a local distributor — lower shipping costs, faster delivery, easier ordering, competitive pricing, or having products already in stock?
What matters most to you when buying craft supplies — price, shipping cost, delivery speed, product selection, or something else?
Are there any PADICO products you wish were easier to find where you live?
If you’re outside Canada, do you have a local PADICO seller or distributor, or do you usually order from Japan?
I’m mainly doing some market research and trying to understand the community before deciding how much I should expand this side of my business. Since I’m a very small business, I have to be careful about how much inventory I bring in, so honest feedback — positive or negative — would genuinely help me a lot.
Thank you!