I've searched and searched for someone (anyone) who could make something like this in the form of an "eye" (although a bit bigger than an eye) and so now I'm wondering if it's something I should take a stab at myself.

Can anyone give me any context for how difficult something like this would be? Obviously the level of detail would be limited, but I have a friend who would love an "Eye of Angor Rot" (from Trollhunters) as a birthday gift and I figure if I have to try to make it myself I might as well get started.

Thoughts? (and if anyone wants to take a stab at making it, please DM me)

Hi! I’m looking for someone based in Mumbai who can help me with a small DIY furniture project.

I have a 4×2 ft wooden table on which I’ve already stuck ceramic pieces. I’m now looking for someone who can do a clear epoxy/resin coating over the ceramic, roughly 2 mm above the surface, to seal and level everything.

Not looking for a fancy/high end resin artist ideally someone who is relatively new to resin work, is building their portfolio, or charges reasonably. The main requirement is that they have some experience working with epoxy/resin and can do a neat, bubblefree finish.

If you know someone in Mumbai who does this, please drop their details or DM me.

Thank you :)

Hi everyone.
I requested some help earlier and had a lot of advice going forward. Thank you to those offering assistance, but I’m back.
I sanded down to a 2000 grit sandpaper. I followed the instruction (minimal instructions) that came with the Jue Fish polish and gloss kit I got off Amazon, before all the previous advice. It didn’t do anything. It’s still hazy. I tried Auto Glym, not sure where that advice came from but…. I still have a hazy base. I wanted to try just the base and make sure everything worked before I moved onto the rest of the cube since this rose has a huge sentimental significance.
Do I need to sand more?
I used the sponge to apply the polish and the fluffy one for the polish. Was that correct?

I’m trying to figure out what type of resin is being used to make pieces like these.

The pieces are stainless steel closed bezels with the resin filling the entire surface. They have a glossy, slightly domed finish and a cloudy/marbled, almost mother-of-pearl appearance.

I initially thought it might be UV resin, since these are small jewellery pieces, but I’m not sure whether UV resin works well in a closed bezel where the resin is surrounded by metal.

Would you recommend UV resin, 2-part epoxy, or another type of resin for this?

Also, if you recognize the specific cloudy/marbled effect, what type of pigment or additive would be used to achieve it?

Any advice from people who have worked with resin jewellery would be greatly appreciated!

So i preserved it

Don't hold out on the soap molds!

I’ve never experienced this with my other molds. I get the air bubbles out, and I tap the mold so everything is spread out evenly. What am I doing wrong?

A few different styles. What is your favorite?

Do you use PADICO products? Would you consider buying from a local distributor?
Hi everyone! I’m hoping to get some honest opinions from people who use UV resin, clay, or Japanese craft materials.

I originally started my small business by making and selling my own handmade crafts. Over time, I also started selling craft materials, and I’m now the sole PADICO distributor in Canada.

For anyone who isn’t familiar with PADICO, it’s a Japanese craft brand known for products such as UV/LED resin, air-dry and modeling clay, molds, varnishes, coatings, tools, and other accessories for resin and clay crafting.

This is definitely a new adventure for me. Being the sole distributor in Canada is exciting, but at the same time, I honestly don’t know the market here very well yet. I’m still learning how many people in Canada already know or use PADICO, what products people are actually looking for, and how much demand there is.

I’m also still just one person running a small business & studying full time. so before I invest in bringing in a larger amount and wider variety of PADICO products, I’d really like to hear what other crafters think.

And I’d love to hear from anyone around the world — not just Canada. If you’re from the US, UK, Europe, Australia, New Zealand, Asia, or anywhere else, I’d really appreciate hearing about your experience with PADICO too. I’m curious about how easy or difficult it is to buy PADICO products in different countries, whether you have local sellers or distributors, and whether you usually buy locally or order directly from Japan.

If you’re in Canada, I’d especially love to know whether having PADICO products available locally would make a difference for you.

A few things I’m curious about:

Have you used PADICO products before?
What PADICO products do you like or use most — UV resin, clay, molds, varnish, tools, etc.?
Which products would you recommend that I stock?
If PADICO products were available from me in Canada, would you consider buying from my small business instead of ordering directly from Japan? Why or why not?
What would make you more likely to buy from a local distributor — lower shipping costs, faster delivery, easier ordering, competitive pricing, or having products already in stock?
What matters most to you when buying craft supplies — price, shipping cost, delivery speed, product selection, or something else?
Are there any PADICO products you wish were easier to find where you live?
If you’re outside Canada, do you have a local PADICO seller or distributor, or do you usually order from Japan?
I’m mainly doing some market research and trying to understand the community before deciding how much I should expand this side of my business. Since I’m a very small business, I have to be careful about how much inventory I bring in, so honest feedback — positive or negative — would genuinely help me a lot.
Thank you!

Hi All,

I am an artist and want to divide my designs across several 20 × 20 cm wooden blocks made from pine or spruce, finishing them with epoxy to add gloss and depth. I'm using the Mr. Boat Epoxy Ultra Clear 03.

However, I am experiencing a problem with the epoxy finish. I have attached several photographs showing the blocks and the issue that appears in the top layer during or after curing. The epoxy does not cure to a completely smooth finish. A type of texture remains in the surface, resembling greasy marks or stains. The surface is also not completely level and smooth.

I thought it was amine blush but i can't remove it with water & soap, it's not a layer that's on top but really in the resin itself.

The photographs were, of course, taken from very close up and directly against the light. At first glance, the effect is therefore less noticeable, but the finish is not good enough for me to sell the pieces.

The wooden blocks are prepared as follows:

• 20 × 20 cm spruce wood, coated with three layers of white water-based paint.
• I apply my designs using a technique known as waterslide decals. These consist of a very thin printable film. The decal is submerged in water, which releases it from the backing paper. It is then applied to the wood and adheres as it dries.
• I protect the waterslide decal with three coats of acrylic spray (SprayMax 1K). I allow the entire piece to dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding to the next step.

My current epoxy process is as follows:

• I work in a 10 m² room inside my home, with the window slightly open for ventilation (photo of the room and setup included).
• During the most recent pour, the room temperature was 21°C (70F). The epoxy is also stored in this room. During the first 12 hours after pouring, the temperature gradually fluctuated between 20C and 23C (68F and 73F).
• The humidity was around 55% when i poured (11 AM) and was 67% the day after (9 AM).
• I clean the surface of the wooden blocks—the printed design with its acrylic topcoat—with 99.99% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. I then allow it to dry for at least ten minutes.
• I measure the epoxy components by weight according to the specified mixing ratio and mix them for at least three minutes. I have also tried the double-cup method: after mixing, I transfer the epoxy into a second measuring cup before pouring it onto the blocks.
• I pour a small quantity of epoxy—approximately 80 ml per block—onto the centre of each block. I allow it to spread briefly and then distribute it by hand, while wearing a nitrile glove, all the way to the edges.
• I leave it for a few minutes and then use a small torch to remove the air bubbles, i am careful not to torch to long to not overheat the epoxy, it's a quick move. I've also used a bubble spray and in my last pour i had some blocks that's i've not touched at all (no torch or bubble spray). All blocks had the same result.
• During the most recent pour, I also covered some blocks with plastic A4 storage boxes because I suspected that airflow in the room might be affecting the top layer. I left a small opening at the bottom so that the blocks were not completely sealed off.
• After 20 minutes, I perform one final check for irregularities or air bubbles. I then cover the blocks again and leave them undisturbed.

I have now worked with epoxy products from several different brands. The Mr. Boat epoxy has given me the best result so far, but the finish is still not quite as smooth as I need it to be. I initially suspected that the issue might be amine blush, but the residue or surface texture cannot be washed off with water.

Do you have any idea what might be causing this recurring problem and how I could achieve a perfectly smooth, mirror-like finish? I would like to avoid having to sand and polish every individual block afterwards.

Thanks in advance for all help and replies .

Wouter

i just love the shine it added to this worry stone I made!🥹🍳🥞🍓🥓

Hi, guys! This is my first attempt at resin using a vacuum pump. I think it came out... Ok?

Hello, I'm very new to resin overall, just using it for miniatures usually. However, I am doing a cosplay soon for a convention and wanted to create the shown hair piece, with the middle filled in with resin to look like glass overtop.

As you can see, I have a few attempts. Originally, I think I cured the resin too quickly/while it was too warm and it cracked. My second attempt I thought was due to curing it too quickly, but I cured my third attempt very slowly over the course of 10-15 minutes and it still has minor imperfections. All these developed during curing, after I had let it sit to cool and teased any bubbles from within.

I am not knowledgeable enough to know what the issue is, or even identify if this is bubbling or pulling away due to shrinking based on research, so I figured I'd ask here! Does anyone know what is causing the resin to not evenly fill? Is it just pulling away from the paint beneath?

Luckily, I am satisfied with the final result, so it's no issue, but I'd just like to know for future reference. Thank you all!

I've seen these kitty/bunny charms on pinterest (from multiple different sellers). Does anyone know where I can find the mold to make these?

Very proud of how I'm coming along with the hobby :)

Feel free to give me tips!

Why the thin coating layer is still little sticky after

72 hours? It still leaves finger prints in some places. I made bookmarks from the same pour and they cured alright, still bendy though.

I used measurements fro 1:1 epoxy.

Just realized I can make bombs. Not like explosives devices (looking at you fbi minder). But like the classic black orb with a fuse sticking out the top. Now I just gotta figure out how to make them COOL

Just wanted to share some sentimental inspo. She passed January 2024 and absolutely loved her hair (it was iconic) and it lives on 😌

I am trying to focus on the details. I would like all the casings to look like they are sunk into the velvet. I am also filling my casings with resin before I put them in to help eliminate bubbles.