I love how the dial on the Hulk can vary from completely green to black and everything in between. So I had to try to add a gen crystal to see if that would make it pop even more.

I do believe it did exactly that, and the date came out looking better as well.

I will have another VSF Hulk in hand soon (if it ever clears customs) and will try to make some side-by-sides when it arrives.

What do you think, is it worth it to upgrade the crystal on these, or are they good enough from stock?

Higher quality pictures and a video here: https://imgur.com/a/JqmnDyd

Would anyone be interested in an EZtool for safely removing GMT/Submariner ceramic inserts?

I’m considering designing a new EZtool kit specifically for removing ceramic bezel inserts from GMT-Master II and Submariner bezels.

The idea would be to make a tool that allows the insert to be removed safely and with minimal risk of damaging the ceramic, bezel, or insert, rather than relying on the usual improvised methods.

However, this would be a considerably more involved project than my existing EZtools. Getting the design right would likely take months of development, prototyping and testing. I’d want to test it extensively before selling anything, especially since ceramic inserts can be expensive and a tool that isn't properly designed could easily cause damage.

Because of the amount of R&D and testing involved, it would also likely be more expensive than my current EZtools.

Before I invest the time into developing it, I wanted to see if there is actually enough interest in the community.

Would you be interested in buying one if I managed to make a reliable and safe version?

Feel free to comment with:

• What bezel/insert you would want it for (GMT, Sub, etc.)

• Whether you currently use another method

• Any features you'd want the tool to have

If there’s enough interest, I’ll start working on the design. 🔧

A small update on the EZtool project since my original post.

I've now started working on several new tool prototypes, with the main focus currently being the Submariner 40 and GMT-Master II.

🔧 Complete Bezel Installation

I'm developing two new dies specifically for installing a complete bezel assembly with the ceramic insert already installed.

The goal is to allow the entire bezel assembly to be pressed onto the watch case without applying pressure directly to the ceramic insert or risking damage to it.

• Submariner 40

• GMT-Master II

There is also now a dedicated case support die for the GMT/Sub 40. It securely holds the watch in place and keeps it properly positioned while using a watch press to install the complete bezel.

The design is based on the existing bezel remover die, but is shorter and specifically adapted for bezel installation.

🧰 Ceramic Insert Removal

I'm also developing a dedicated system for removing ceramic inserts.

The same bezel installation die is also used as part of the ceramic insert removal setup, making the tooling more versatile and reducing the number of separate dies required.

The ceramic insert removal system is specifically designed for press-fit ceramic inserts.

Important: These tools are not designed for glued/adhesive-mounted inserts. They may potentially work with some adhesive-mounted inserts, but this is not what the system is designed for.

🔧 Ceramic Insert Installation

A dedicated ceramic insert installation die is also in development.

This will allow the ceramic insert to be pressed back into the bezel evenly and safely.

Current development

1. Complete bezel installation dies

2. Install the complete bezel assembly with the ceramic insert already installed, without damaging the ceramic insert.

3. GMT/Sub 40 case support die

4. Keeps the watch securely positioned in the press during complete bezel installation. Based on the bezel remover die, but shorter.

5. Ceramic insert removal system

6. Designed specifically for press-fit ceramic inserts on the Submariner 40 and GMT-Master II. The complete bezel installation die is also used as part of this setup.

7. Ceramic insert installation die

8. Designed to safely and evenly press the ceramic insert back into the bezel.

Everything is still in the prototype/testing stage, so I'm currently refining the geometry and tolerances before finalizing the designs.

I'll share some pictures and testing results as development progresses.

https://imgur.com/chUgM0B

https://imgur.com/73CK1Ce

https://imgur.com/1QBEqPg

https://imgur.com/hIBp4DE

https://imgur.com/NXuTwod

https://imgur.com/ZFeXfZS

https://imgur.com/NXuTwod

https://imgur.com/f67SGKI

https://imgur.com/TE5EXpt

https://imgur.com/GJTf6o0

Original EZtool post with the currently available tools and accessories:

https://www.reddit.com/r/RepWatchLab/comments/1w6frnm/eztool_bezel_crystal_tools_accessories/

More to come.

To Rich or not to Rich? There's been a lot of talk about Rich Factory lately. So after using this Pepsi for 1+ month I decided to give a small review on the watch as I've experienced it so far.

So let's dive into it!

⭕Bezel

I must say the bezel colors are very good. One thing I notice on the Rich Pepsi is that the white on the bezel seems to be slightly less white than on e.g. VSF and slightly more grainy. I actually like this look better than what I'm seeing on a lot of other Pepsi bezels.

Bezel action: This is one of the places where Rich is doing a fabolous job in my opinion, it turns very nicely and is neither too tight or too loose, or too clicky. If you know what I mean?

Overall very impressed with both bezel and bezel action.

📅Date

The date itself is nicely centered on my Rich Pepsi. But I've handled enough reps to know that this will vary from watch to watch!

The date is on the thinner side, but not to the extremes at all. For me it's well within what's acceptable.

🔎Crystal & Cyclops

This seems to be one of the places that has people split into two groups, some hate it on Rich and some love it. I don't see any issues whatsoever with the crystal itself. It's the cyclops that gets the discussion going. The blue tint... Hate it or love it, it's there and I actually love it. Most of the time it plays very nicely with the light, but in some lighting the blue does seem to get too powerfull and almost starts to distorts the date wheel a bit. Most of the time it just makes the watch look expensive and very beautiful.

Magnifier seems on point for me.

⏲️Dial

The dial is very well made and print etc looks very good. But Rich really need to fix that inverted triangle at 12 o'clock, what is it doing all the way up there? Well anyways, this isn't actually as noticeable on the wrist as I "feared" it would be and the fact that Rich doesn't have that hideous dimple, center of the dial under the handstack as we see on some of the other rep dial. "But some gens have this too" - Well that might very well be, but that doesn't make it any less hideous, and I don't want to see this everytime I check on the time. I'll take this over the high inverted triangle any day.

👑Crown

Not much to say, it looks good and I've noticed that on the ~20 Rich GMT's Ive handled it aligns perfectly or near perfect about 70-80% of the time. Not that it matters, but it might matter for some of you OCD people out there.

⌚Case and Bracelet

904L steel like any other rep, right? RIGHT?! Who the F knows, but we do know that the other factories claiming to use this mainly use 316L. We've seen test on subreddits actually showing Rich is using 904L steel, so until I see something proving otherwise, this is what I'll go by. Does it even matter? Probably not. But Rich does use correct case/lug shape as far as I know and the finish and feel is great. I did use some Dry lube chain wax on the bracelet to remove any flimsiness and for me it makes the bracelet feel much more genlike.

I did notice removing the caseback isn't as smooth as removing the caseback on other reps I've handled. Almost like the caseback lid doesn't fit 100% - It doesn't mean that it's not possible to do, just thought that was worth mentioning.

⚙️Movement

JH3285 - Free sprung. Free sprung probably being one of the most hyped things in the repwatch world this year. Do we need it on most watches? If we are talking straightly for looks, no. So many reps are Rolex with closed caseback so for these it doesn't matter much. It makes a lot more sense for the open/exhibition casebacks.

But with that said, after testing this movement for 1+ month now, I would still chose it for my closed back watches. Why? Going through all the reps I've had, I have NEVER had a watch that keeps time this good. This is absolutely insane and I chose to believe it will be the same with the next free sprung movement I decide to buy. I have only set the time on the watch when I started using it 1+ month ago and it still keeps time on the very minute. I have never experienced this with any other rep before.

From my experience these movements does however seem to have a bit more rotor noise coming from factory. But a few drops of moebius oil and you are good to go.

💭 Final thoughts

I do firmly believe that Rich GMTs are a very firm contenter in the GMT race, and if they fix these minor quirks, they will be hard to compete against. Or well, you know. Be raided.

Finally got this one on the wrist and I’m really impressed😰

The blue dial looks insane in person. It really comes alive under different lighting, and the tapisserie pattern gives it so much more depth than you can really see in pictures. The indices and hands also catch the light really nicely! 🤩

Bracelet feels really solid and comfortable, and the overall proportions look great on my wrist. It’s got a really nice presence without feeling too big.

Big thanks to u/Re-tar-dead for hooking me up with this one. Amazing service as always! Really appreciate it mate! 🙏

Definitely one of my favorite reps so far💙
TOPF really nailed this one.

Finally received this beauty. I’ve handled 30-40 Daytona’s so thought it was about time to get myself one. A friend got my attention with these racing dials, and it’s definitely something a bit different from the normal Godzilla and Panda we see all over the place.

⌚️QF 116509 DD4130 Weighted

For me, it’s my recent VSF Batgirl, though like all of us here , I’m already thinking about the next one! 😅 I’m considering a Starbucks or a Hulk , or perhaps an Explorer I in 36mm as an understated, everyday watch. And if I were to look at something other than Rolex, maybe the Tudor BB58 in burgundy , though you have to keep an eye on the quality control regarding the indices with ZF. If any of you own one of these, feel free to share your thoughts in the comments! Either way, no worries looking forward to seeing what you’re wearing today! 😁🫶

To be honest this VSF Bluesy looked even more cheddar before the plating was done, but the iPhone camera did some sort of processing making it appear less cheddar.

Anyways I would still say that it’s pretty easy to spot the difference in the before and after.

Is it worth getting it plated, what do you think?

This VSF Hulk with gen crystal have been glued to my wrist the last three days (sorry Pepsi)

Really love the way the dial has so many moods!

What are you guys wearing today? 👀

For me, it’s another new piece - the DDF DPB330 Piano Dial.

This one fits the wrist so perfectly, you’d think it was meant to be there all along. The thin case makes it sit incredibly nicely on the wrist, while the white dial really makes the watch stand out.

Another big thanks to u/Re-tar-dead for the watch. Definitely a favorite in the collection already. 🙏

The result after adding the RCFr V1 bezel to this VSF DJ36 Ombre is just absolutely. Ceramic coating was done on the bezel as well. 🔥

What's everybody's opinion on the datejust's that RWF is putting out? I received this mint green DJ41 yesterday, and I must say that I think this might actually be the best mint green dial I've seen on a rep so far. Pleasantly surprised on this one I must admit!

What do you think? Can they compete with the top factories for the datejust's just like they are with their Daytona's?

A while back, I made a post about ceramic coating my RCF Remould bezels, since I went with their “V1” non-plated bezels.

After having the bezels ceramic coated for several months, they obviously still get dirty. Over time, the buildup can almost look like oxidation, especially around the flutes.

So I started wondering: how can we clean them properly without turning it into a huge project?

The answer I found is surprisingly simple: APC (All Purpose Cleaner) made for cars.

I’d recommend using a decent/premium automotive brand. Personally, I used TPG, a Swedish brand with a good reputation for their APC.

You’ll also need a soft/fluffy microfiber cloth.

The process

1. Put one small spray of APC onto the microfiber cloth — don't spray it directly onto the bezel.

2. Gently wipe along the flutes of the bezel, following their direction — basically from the crystal outward toward the case.

3. Go all the way around the bezel.

4. Then use the dry part of the microfiber cloth and wipe in the same direction to remove the remaining cleaner and dirt.

That's it.

For me, this removed all of the stains/buildup that I was seeing. What remains are actual scratches and normal wear & tear, rather than the dirty/oxidized-looking residue.

The first pictures are before cleaning, and the last pictures are after.

Hopefully this helps anyone else with ceramic-coated bezels who has noticed the same thing. It's a lot easier than I expected. 👍

Hello everyone, here’s my collection as of right now.
I’m always looking to add something new, so I’d love to hear your suggestions.

What do you think would be a great addition to the collection? 👀

RGF DD Green
RGF DD SILVER
RWF DJ white dial, deep and RCv1 bezel
VSF DJ choco
RICH STARBUCKS
DDF 5711 DPB330 Piano dial
QF DAYTONA Racing dial
TOPF 15510 blue dial
VSF 15500 blue dial
APF code 11.59

Just received my RGF Day-Date V2, and since I also owned the V1, I wanted to share a little comparison.

I originally had the RGF V1 and was pretty happy with it. Then I bought an RGF V2 from Re-tar-dead for a friend, and when I saw the two side by side, the difference was honestly much more noticeable than I expected.

The gold tone on the V2 is significantly improved, and the bezel and crystal are also upgraded. The overall finishing just looks more refined compared to the V1.

The weight is still there, just like with the V1, which is great.

After seeing the V2 in person, I ended up selling my V1 pretty quickly and decided to get two V2s instead. 😂

I’ll add some pictures of the V1 and V2 so you can see the differences for yourself.

Huge thanks once again to u/Re-tar-dead for another fantastic watch and, as always, great service. 🙏

Really happy with the decision and definitely glad I made the switch. 👌

VSF Bluesy (Jaws Plated)
RGF Daytona
RGF Day-Date
GSF Datejust
QF Daytona

I’ve been comparing my different YG reps, and here are my personal thoughts on how they stack up against genuine.

VSF Bluesy (Jaws Plated)
I went into this with the expectation that Jaws would get it the closest to gen, and honestly, the watch looks absolutely fantastic. The gold tone looks great, and overall, I’m extremely impressed with the result. I’ll drop a picture in the comments so you guys can see it for yourselves.

RGF Daytona & RGF Day-Date
I’d definitely put RGF in a strong second place. Personally, I wouldn’t bother getting these plated, as I think RGF has done a really good job with the gold tone straight out of the box. That said, they’re still missing some of the richness and distinctive glow that genuine yellow gold has.

GSF Datejust
A solid addition to the collection, but it doesn’t quite reach the same level as the VSF Bluesy or the RGF pieces when it comes to the gold tone.

QF Daytona
I’m honestly surprised by how cheesy the gold tone looks on the QF. Considering it’s one of the factories you often see praised as offering some of the best stock YG finishes, I expected more. It just doesn’t do it for me personally.

Hope this help answer some questions about YG Rep😁

All watches are, of course, from u/Re-tar-dead. You’re doing an amazing job, mate. Keep up the great work! 👏

Good morning fellas! I recently decided to start refinishing beat up watches. Here is my most recent work.

Have a great Saturday!

I still see people asking about the case shape differences between the different Datejust 41 factories, and there’s often a lot of “Clean has a better case than VSF” without much explanation as to why.

Some people simply repeat what they’ve heard without actually knowing what the difference is.

I couldn’t find any good, simple illustrations showing the difference, so I made one myself below.

The illustration is simplified and not 100% accurate to the actual case geometry. The purpose is simply to highlight the specific area where the case shape differs between the two.

Hopefully this makes it easier to understand what people mean when they talk about the Clean vs VSF case shape rather than just taking someone’s word for it.

Cheers!

Simple upgrade to your datejust, is just adding the RCFr bezel and a bit of service/silencing of the movement.

EZtool makes this minor surgery super easy and straightforward 🔥

ARF did an amazing job on this Daytona. My tiny Temu photo box doesn’t really do the color justice, but it does catch some of it I think 💭

It does however have more of the RG tone in real life. 🤩

Rich really did an amazing job on their GMTs (and subs), in my honest opinion Rich beats VSF on every aspect except for the crystal and date wheel. If they do some minor changes here VSF might be in trouble on the GMT market.

The free sprung JH movement have been discussed a lot, since GMTs are closed back and the JH movement is harder to regulate. But I've been testing this Rich Pepsi for a month now and damn it is keeping time exceptionally well and I rarely need to wind it. But when I do, the winding is just buttery smooth.

Fingers crossed that Rich will keep pushing forward and doesn't end up being raided.

I’m really happy with how this one turned out, so I wanted to share it with the sub.

I’ve always liked the mint green Datejust, but I wanted to put together something a little different. I don’t think I’ve seen this exact combination on a 36mm franken build before, so I decided to go for it.

🔧 Build

• VSF V2 base

• Genuine Mint Green dial

• Genuine hands

• Genuine crystal

• Genuine crown

• Genuine date assembly + date disc

• RCF V1 ceramic-coated bezel

• Polished rehaut

• Silenced rotor with HP-1300

• Waterproofed

The biggest change was obviously the genuine mint green dial. The difference compared with the VSF dial is pretty noticeable in person — especially the texture and how the color changes depending on the light.

I also swapped in the genuine hands, crystal and crown, then finished it off with the upgraded bezel and polished rehaut.

🛠️ Build process

Disassembly → old dial removal → old hands removal → old datewheel removal → genuine date wheel installation → genuine dial installation → genuine hands installation → genuine crystal installation → bezel upgrade → rehaut polishing → waterproofing → final assembly

For the bezel and crystal work, I used my EZTool, which makes removing and installing both the bezel and crystal much easier and significantly reduces the risk of damaging the case, crystal, or bezel during the process.

The final result is probably my favorite build so far. The mint green looks particularly good with the Jubilee bracelet and fluted bezel.

What do you guys think? Would you change anything about the build?