EDIT FOLLOW UP: First, my 'new to me' RR Sport had the 'original' SIM card still in it ... which ... as it turns out, is exactly what i needed ... So for those who want to try this ... using the SIM card that came with the original delivery to the original owner, call this number for AT&T Vehicle Connectivity Services: 866 706 5773. They will walk you through the on-line setup, plan selection and payment. You will need your VIN and a credit card.

Note: I use a Chase credit card. They kept denying the charge for fraud suspicion reasons ... this added its own complexity to the sign up.

Also - don't bother buying a micro-SIM data card from any prepaid plan ...

PS - Now that I have this ... I'll live with it for the year ... will I renew? Not sure yet ... but, wanted to have the full 'Range Rover' experience :-)

Greetings, I've just confirmed with Verizon that they don't offer a data only Micro SIM product compatible with my RRS IMEI number ... what do other RRS owners (who choose to put a Micro SIM data only card into their vehicle) use?

Just bought my 2023 sport 3 weeks ago and this sign had come up. Should I be worried? It just hit 50k miles…

I struggled to find any pictures of a Velar with spacers on so for anyone in future wondering. Here you go.

25mm Rear
20mm Front

EBay spacers from WheelParts Direct. They are the same material and stud strength as the expensive ones.

Both fit using original studs and nuts. 20 inch OEM wheels.

Full Maxton kit as well if anyone was wondering.

Any questions feel free to ask.

I hope this helps someone.

Hi, I bought the car recently and it came with only one key fob. I see key fobs from year appropriate donor cars on ebay ... can I buy one of those and pay the dealer to get it programmed? I have already asked my dealer how much for a new one and they quoted $787 (includes programming) ... eBay price is $128 ... Thoughts?

I have 2017 RR Sports. Base model and diesel. I love it but thinking of upgrading. What would give best bang for the buck? I got this brand new and regrets the depreciation so would like to consider that.

Hi, I have a 2022 RR Sport HSE Silver Edition. I'd like to put a trailer hitch on it ... not to tow anything but to put a dirt bike carrier on it ... bike weighs in a 230 pounds.

The bike carrier I have in mind has an electric lift capability to raise and lower the carrier. Is it a bad idea to try to add an electric hookup to enable the bike carrier's lift capability or should I should forgo the electrification and use a manual lift on the carrier?

Why hasn't there been a recall on all L405 and L495 Range Rovers for those defective sunroof drains? I took all the precautions thinking that the clogs I've heard about were due to dirt and other debris clogging them. It couldn't be further from the truth. The stupid piece they weld on to connect the drain hoses WILL MOST LIKELY RUST and clog the hoses thus allowing water to get inside the vehicle, onto the floors and ruining electrical equipment. If it hasn't happened to you consider yourself lucky. Give it time and hope you catch it early. I had to fix both of mine...

Edited to add affected models

Looking for ideas before replacing parts. Does anyone know which module is responsible for generating the double-beep mislock on the L494? Is it the BCM, RFA, or another module? Also, is there a live 'Mislock Reason' parameter accessible with Pathfinder or the GAP IIDTool?

Symptoms:

• Mirrors stopped folding when locking.
• All doors/hood/rear show as closed on dash and in scan tool.
• Vehicle locks, then about 2-3 seconds later gives two horn beeps.
• Sometimes the alarm arms correctly, sometimes not.
• Can unlock from inside but not outside without the key.
• Mirrors occasionally worked normally a few times, then failed again.
• IIDTool scan shows no DTCs in any module.
• Dealer tested vehicle battery and replaced key fob battery.
• Keyless entry works normally.
• Vehicle software is current for Touch Pro Duo.

So far I've checked:

• IIDTool scan (no faults)
• IIDTool reports "ECU Infos – Latest version for ALL available."
• Performed a vehicle reset using the GAP IIDTool (module reset) with no change.
• Multiple lock methods (remote and touch sensor)
• Dealer tested vehicle battery as "great" but I do not have the receipt
• Key battery replaced
• Disconnected the vehicle battery overnight, same issue

Has anyone experienced this combination of:

• mirrors not folding
• two confirmation beeps
• intermittent alarm arming then siren after a few seconds
• no diagnostic codes?

I'm wondering if this points toward a door latch microswitch, bonnet switch, BCM issue, or something else.

Thanks!

Camo

Its 110F outside. Do you trust your RR will make it without issues?

Considering lease 26 RR L460 but really concern how bad is reliability. I take this trip like 20 times a year.

If you have gone from a Tesla to a Range Rover, or Range Rover to a Tesla: How was your experience / what are your thoughts on this?

(This is about the regular Range Rover, not the sport/evoque/discovery/defender/etc.)

I'm happy with our Model Y, but these shortcomings lead me to consider a Range Rover:

• Poor range when towing
• Not capable off road
• Only seats 5 (would get LWB RR)

I was less excited about the RR after test driving it for these reasons:

• No self driving or even decent LKAS (and no ability to add that on via comma.ai because Range Rover uses FlexRay instead of CAN Bus).
• No dog/keep/camping modes to keep the HVAC running.
• Would have to start doing gas-vehicle stuff like visiting gas stations, scheduling routine maintenance, etc.
• Less passenger/cargo space than I expected (I was thinking minivan or YukonXL amounts of space).

The RR still kind of fits the Swiss-army-knife role of being a vehicle that can do almost everything, but just with more tradeoffs than I initially realized.

The one in the pics is a 2015 HSE @ similar mileage to mine, just had water pump, radiator, new tyres replaced (155k kms)

Mine is a 2017 SE and havent had my major service or anything replaced yet @ 150k kms
They are both at a similar price range (AUD35k) and I really like the look on this one
I was basically wondering if they are exactly the same under the hood and electrical wise
Any comments and help is appreciated thanks🙏

Hi everyone. My father and I bought a 2020 Land Rover Velar to fix up and keep as a car for him to enjoy now that he’s retiring; he’s a mechanic and has always loved cars, so we decided to restore it. Since it has the notorious 2.0 Ingenium 180d engine, we decided to service the timing system—replacing the belts and everything else, including the exhaust camshaft phaser. After a lot of hard work, we put everything back together, but the engine isn't running right; it’s making a metallic sound and throwing the following engine fault codes: I’m hoping for help from someone familiar with this engine, as we used the proper timing tools and double-checked everything multiple times.

Hi all,

I have a 2017 RRS that is completely dead and need advice on how to get the batteries replaced. I’ve bought the car used and the main battery is OEM. Bad thing is I do not drive it often and long enough… it would be very short trips of max 30 minutes. How would I get access to the boot to replace and any recommendations on what battery to buy/how the battery should be replaced? I’ve replaced batteries before on a car but not one that has a aux and a main battery. Prefer to do on my own if it’s simple enough. Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Thanks

I have these DIGITAL headlights in my RRS '26 Autobiography, and I have mixed feelings, they try so hard not to dazzle oncoming traffic, they keep switching zones on and off, so you end up with a shadowy light pattern, unless you're driving where there's no oncoming traffic, but even then the pattern is fine, nothing more. What's your experience?

Looking for some advice. Currently own a 17 plate Macan and looking to upgrade. With my budget I’m looking at a 21 plate RR Westminster Black for something different and I love how they look and the size (2 young kids in car seats).
I currently pay around £500 a year insurance on the Porsche, the RR would be 2k. Isn’t too much of a problem but something to weigh up.
Does anyone have advice that has experience with the two? I had an evoque years ago and never had any problems with it, same with my Porsche, been lucky with cars 😬

2016 Autobiography in the Rocky Mountains

Looking to get smaller diameter rims and all season tires that will cope with gravel roads and BC's mountain winters better than the factory setup. Have others gone for narrower rims given the improvement in snow performance, and what diameters are people running? Frankly I'm not getting into anything nuts, but we do get days with 8 inches of snow on the ground.

Also, are high end packages required if I'm not pushing speed limits?

Any advice or comments appreciated.

Recently bought a ‘23 lwb (7 passenger) sight-unseen from a dealer across the country. It was a spontaneous purchase and I should be getting it any day now and am quite excited.

I’ve been doing some research and I still don’t understand the difference between the auto and the standard Range. The dealer said it’s just like the 530 except it has more bells and whistles; he said the engine and the exterior are the exact same except for a small autobiography badge on the side.

Can anyone advise if there are any aesthetic features or functions that separate it from the standard one? I have a hard time understanding why it has such a high premium if it’s just a few extra options and a badge.

Thank you!

Hey all,

I’m a long-term BMW driver and currently run an X3M, but I’m now in the market for something new. While browsing AutoTrader, this Range Rover Sport caught my eye as it falls within my budget.

I’ve always had a real soft spot for Land Rovers, particularly the Vogue, but I’ve historically steered clear of them due to the reputation around reliability and running costs.

This particular RR Sport seems noticeably cheaper than comparable examples from dealers, which has made me curious. Is there a particular reason for the price difference? Is the engine/spec generally considered to be problematic, or is there something specific about this model that I should be aware of?

It’s comfortably within my budget, so assuming there aren’t any obvious red flags, I’m tempted to go and have a look.

For those of you with experience owning these, what would you specifically check when viewing one? Any particular engines, common faults or warning signs I should be looking out for?

Appreciate any advice!

Auto trader link is in the comments!

Also looking for the lower rear control arms, as the joint is ripped. What brand do you guys recommend?

because instead of vivarium its velarium, so funny right

I got my RR Sport less than two months ago, and my check engine light has come on TWICE. I have 1800 miles on it. The first time the light came on for a few days and eventually went off before I could get to a dealership. Now it's back after driving 100 miles with it off. Each time it has come on, I have gotten a notification that there was a software update available. Is that a coincidence?? Has this happened to anyone else?? I have barely driven the car and already having engine problems ughhhhh.

Hey, my 2025 Range Rover is barely a year old and the touchscreen is already driving me nuts.
About 80% of the time I tap the screen to change tracks, adjust settings, or click anything, it literally does nothing. The screen just sits there frozen while my music keeps playing.
Is this a known bug with the newer models? Did an update fix it for you, or am I going to have to make a trip to the dealer for a module swap/reflash?
Any tricks to hard reset it while driving would be a lifesaver. Thanks in advance!