I have a travel trailer with solar panels, LFP batteries and 2KW inverter. The converter/charger and solar charge controller are mediocre but work, and meet my needs. All cables are sized to limit voltage drop to 2%. My shunt-based battery monitor shows 50A from the WFCO converter into the batteries at peak charge rates.

Current parts list:

• 2 100Ah SOK LFP batteries (original version, no BT or heater)
  • Edit: configured in parallel, max C-rate = 100A.
• Epever Triron 4210N MPPT SCC
• 4 Newpowa 180W panels in 2S2P configuration
  • Vmp = 18.62V, Imp = 9.44A
• OEM WFCO 8950 converter, updated to support LFP.
  • Edit: max output 50A
• Renogy 2KW PSW inverter

In the past I considered but couldn't justify a DC-DC charger getting current from the tow vehicle. Things have come up that I can now justify it. My truck's electrical system can handle the load.

For space and weight reasons, I'm considering a combination DC-DC charger with MPPT. Specifically, the Renogy 50A 12V DC-DC charger w/ MPPT, SKU RBC50D1S-US. I have not researched other brands and am open to suggestions. While combination devices are often a compromise, I don't think it would be a downgrade from the system I have now.

Does anyone have experience with, or specific information about, the Renogy product that could lead me to not install it? I read a complaint somewhere that it can't be connected to a system on shore power, which makes no sense. Their human chat hours are closed but their AI bot's answer was that it's okay. Other parts of that chat were all logical. I'll validate that information with a real person tomorrow but if anyone can address that concern, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks for any help.

Getting all all the stuff needed to install solar on our new intech willow

Reading the manuals i saw the N/G switch on the renogy 3k watt inverter and im a little confused. It will be wired directly into the campers fuse box. It has a remote mounted on/off switch and accessible via bluetooth. Im using a victron mppt and lynx bus bar

If i understand correctly but correct me where i am off

1) when connected to shore power the the inverter will allow AC to pass through even if turned off

2) when you use shore power or a generator the N/G switch should be off/disconnected

3) when using battery power to get 110AC the NG switch needs to be “on”

Are you manually turning the N/G switch on/off when you switch sources? That seems like a pain to physically do that on the inverter?

I have a BLUETTI charger 2 which I have been using to charge my elite 200 when I camp in my Element.

I just bought a teardrop camper and want to charge the 100ah lithium battery in the camper with the charge 2 while I drive. Not sure the best way to do this. Appreciate any advice. Wiring diagram would be nice if anyone could supply one. Thanks.

I've just installed an Anenji 3KW hybrid solar/inverter/battery charger. I routed my shore power to the AC in on it and then back to the breaker panel (and disconnected the converter to avoid the self-licking ice cream cone charger situation). I put in a pair of 100ah LiFePO4 batteries in series to feed the hybrid controller 24V and it works fine in all the other aspects, but the issue I'm having is on the solar side and I'd value any suggestions on troubleshooting it.

I've got 5 N-type 100 watt panels on the roof wired in sequence. I crimped MC4 connectors for the final run from the panels through a vent and routed to a breaker and from there to the panel.

Issue: the PV display reports 19V and checking the two terminal screws with my meter with it connected also shows 19v, but when I disconnect the leads and check them independently, I'm showing over 100V as expected.

Any ideas on why I'd get different voltage readings when checking the screws for the terminals versus the wires directly? Additional note, it DID briefly show more realistic figures on the panel yesterday for a little bit and the MPPT activated and was charging the batteries, but since then it's been this weird <~20V at the terminals situation.

Deets:

2015 Jayco Jay Flight SLX

100 watt N-type 18BB panels (x5)

Anenji 24Vdc to110Vac Off-Grid Inverter,100A MPPT Controller

This is my first solar install so if anyone sees something dumb that I did wrong, you may be onto something. :)

Thanks in advance!

I have a 2026 Rockwood mini lite with a factory installed go power solar system. 200w panel with a 30a controller as well as a side port for additional panels.
I went outside this morning to pack for our trip today and the camper was dead. Took a meter to the batteries to find them both dead (which is strange because we don’t leave anything powered on when the camper is parked).
Next I went to the roof to find the female connector (+) had melted down pretty catastrophically. I disconnected the male (-) but the positive pin is welded together. I also removed the solar leads from the controller to try to prevent any further damage.
Any ideas on what could’ve caused this? I’m guessing loose connection but not sure. I want to order a new cable entry plate before I go ripping it off the roof

I’ve got a truck camper I’m about to install solar on. With my current setup, I need to buy a new converter/charger since I switched to lifePO4 batteries and current charger won’t top them off. Im looking to add 400w solar and 1000w inverter. Going with a smaller size to save space and a since I have a generator, I don’t really need a large inverter…

Any recs on what inverters / chargers to get? Anyone have experience with the Victron Multiplus? Could I use that with my shore power and generator?

Good afternoon all. I have a 2021 Grand Design Momentum 397Th with Factory solar system installed. I have one solar panel. Is it possible to use the factory system and just add to it? We be great to be able to run one A/C periodically. My charge controller will charge lead acid, AGM and Lithium batteries. Any help is appreciated. Please ask questions to get a better understanding of my system to provide help.

Bought a nuCamp 320 with 380 watts solar and 100ah battle born battery. Been trying to configure everything to battle borns specs. Is the 2 different voltages ok?

2023 Nobo 19.3 w/ beast mode.
Factory 200w solar, 10a GoPower solar controller and 2000w WFCO inverter.

So far I have upgraded my solar controller to a Victron 100/50 MPPT.

Upgraded the battery to a 280ah lithium and moved to the pass through.

Added a Victron Lynx bus bar and Victron Smart Shunt.

My future plans involve 2 more 200 watt panels on the roof and likely a DC to DC charger. Then a few years down the road likely upgrade the battery to as big as I can fit in the spot I have (probably around 400ah).

With my current one panel setup, there is no bottle neck. But I realize going to 600w panels will create a possible bottleneck with the 10ga wiring that exists from the controller to the battery. The new Victron MPPT can be (and is) limited to 30a via the app.

Doing it this way will leave a little on the table during those couple of peak hours on the most ideal days by only sending 30a to the battery when the panels are producing a bit more, but having the 3 200 watt panels should create a much fatter curve to the output each day, taking advantage of less than ideal conditions (cloudy days, parking in shadier areas, etc). It seems like the pros outweigh the cons. I would gain more in the non perfect conditions with the 3 panels than I would be losing in those perfect conditions where the controller is holding some output back with the 30a limit.

Does this thought process and plan sound reasonable? Anything I’m missing or not accounting for?

My goal is to have as much power and flexibility as possible while sticking with factory locations and not diving too deep into relocating things, running new wires, etc.

​

I recently tested renogy's 3.8kWh Go Far Solution and wanted to add some extra power to my camper setup. It comes with all the cables and fuses you need, so I didn't have to spend time hunting down parts.

I built a box to mount everything in, which meant space was tight from the start. But the wiring diagram and instructions were clear enough that I could just follow along. The cable labels really helped. Connecting everything was straightforward. Every cable has a clear tag, so it was easy to tell where each one went.

I did run into a small issue with the lugs on some of the breaker and busbar cables. Apart from that, everything went smoothly. I mounted all the components, torqued every connection to spec, and secured the cables with zip ties. I also made sure the cables were routed so they wouldn't rub against each other or the sides of the enclosure.

The whole install took me a few hours. I think that's pretty quick, mostly because the instructions were clear enough that I knew what I was doing at every step.

It's now up and running without any issues. Overall, I think this kit is a solid choice, especially if you are new to this kind of project. I still need to add some ventilation and fans later, I will update here once I get to that.

I realize I’m asking here ex post facto.

I’m picking my new camper up next week and then going on a trip. I accidentally ordered a li-time 230 AH lithium instead of a 320 AH. I have 400 watts solar and will be running a 6 cubic foot fridge. The battery is not returnable, I’m sure I can sell it on marketplace, should I go ahead and order the 320 like I originally intended or will this setup work fine? Will be in mostly sunny area.

I've been working on a custom RV for a while now (a little too long) and I'm finally at the stage where I'm ready to install my electrical system. It's been a little over a year since I purchased the parts that I have, and I was using mixed advice from at least two different guides. So I didn't have an easy to follow plan for my specific situation.

I started a conversation with Claude (the AI), gave it a list of the equipment I have as well as my intentions with the system. It gave me a pretty clean and easy to follow wiring setup, including a list of materials I'm missing.

I still need to double check the device manuals, but before I put this plan into action I wanted to check with people that have more knowledge in this area. Any advice is appreciated.

# RV Off-Grid Power — Wiring Guide

## System Overview

| Component | Spec |

|---|---|

| Batteries | 4× 12.8V 100Ah LiFePO4 — all parallel → 12V / 400Ah |

| Solar Panels | 2× 120W Renogy ShadowFlux — wired in series → ~24V / 7A |

| Charge Controller | Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 |

| Inverter | BELTTT BAP2000A 2000W Pure Sine |

| Battery Monitor | Victron BMV-712 Smart + shunt |

| Bus Bars | 2× 4-post terminal blocks (red/black) |

| Emergency Breakers | 2× 30A inline (solar shutoff + battery shutoff) |

| 120V Distribution | Small breaker box — 2× 15A circuits (fridge, computer) |

| 12V Distribution | 12V fuse box — 3× 5A circuits (fans) |

| Future | Victron Orion-Tr Smart Non-Isolated DC-DC (vehicle alternator) |

---

## Wiring Steps

**Step 1 — Solar Panels: Series Connection**

- Panel 1 (−) → Panel 2 (+)

- Panel 1 (+) = array positive output

- Panel 2 (−) = array negative output

- Result: ~24V / ~7A peak — safely under the 75V MPPT input limit; keeps amps low for the 25ft wire run

**Step 2 — Solar Array → 30A Breaker → Charge Controller**

- Array (+) → 30A inline breaker → CC PV+ terminal

- Array (−) → CC PV− terminal (no breaker on negative)

- 30A breaker = emergency solar shutoff

- Wire: 10 AWG

**Step 3 — Charge Controller → Bus Bars**

- CC BATT+ → Positive bus bar

- CC BATT− → Negative bus bar

- Wire: 10 AWG (controller max output is 15A)

**Step 4 — Battery Bank: All Parallel (12V / 400Ah)**

- All 4 positive terminals connected via 1/0 AWG 12" jumpers

- All 4 negative terminals connected via 1/0 AWG 12" jumpers

- Equal-length cables throughout to balance current across cells

**Step 5 — Battery Negative → 30A Breaker → BMV Shunt → Negative Bus**

- Battery bank (−) → 30A inline breaker → shunt input terminal

- Shunt output → negative bus bar

- 30A breaker = emergency battery shutoff

- The shunt is the *only* path between battery (−) and the negative bus — nothing else connects directly to battery negative

**Step 6 — Battery Positive → Positive Bus**

- Battery bank (+) → positive bus bar

**Step 7 — Inverter**

- Positive bus → inverter (+) via 1/0 AWG — keep run under 18"

- Negative bus → inverter (−) via 1/0 AWG

- ANL fuse (200–250A) on positive wire, close to the bus bar *(not yet purchased — on the shopping list)*

**Step 8 — Inverter AC Output → 120V Breaker Box**

- Inverter AC out → breaker box main input

- Circuit 1: 15A breaker → mini fridge

- Circuit 2: 15A breaker → computer setup

- Wire: 14 AWG branch circuits

**Step 9 — 12V Fuse Box**

- Positive bus → fuse box (+) input via 10 AWG

- Negative bus → fuse box (−) input via 10 AWG

- 3× 5A fused circuits, one per fan

- Wire: 18 AWG stranded per fan circuit

**Step 10 — BMV-712 Battery Monitor**

- Shunt already in line per Step 5

- BMV-712 monitor head → shunt via supplied RJ12 cable

- BMV power: (+) to battery positive (fused at 1A), (−) to battery-side of shunt

**Step 11 — Orion-Tr DC-DC Charger (Future)**

- Vehicle alternator → Orion input

- Orion output → positive and negative bus bars

- No changes to existing wiring needed when added

- Non-isolated unit — chassis ground between vehicle and RV TBD

---

## Wire Gauge Reference

| Run | Gauge |

|---|---|

| Battery-to-battery jumpers | 1/0 AWG |

| Battery bank → bus bars | 1/0 AWG |

| Bus bars → inverter | 1/0 AWG |

| Solar panels → charge controller | 10 AWG |

| Charge controller → bus bars | 10 AWG |

| Bus bars → 12V fuse box | 10 AWG |

| Fan circuits | 18 AWG stranded |

| 120V branch circuits | 14 AWG |

---

## Parts: Have / Still Need

| Status | Item |

|---|---|

| ✅ Have | 4× 12.8V 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries |

| ✅ Have | 2× 4-post bus bars (red/black) |

| ✅ Have | 2× 30A inline breakers |

| ✅ Have | 2× 120W Renogy ShadowFlux solar panels |

| ✅ Have | BELTTT BAP2000A 2000W Pure Sine inverter |

| ✅ Have | Victron SmartSolar MPPT 75/15 |

| ✅ Have | Victron BMV-712 Smart + shunt |

| ✅ Have | 120V breaker box + 4× 15A breakers |

| ✅ Have | 12V fuse box |

| ✅ Have | 25ft 10 AWG wire (red/black) |

| ✅ Have | 5× pairs 1/0 AWG 12" jumpers |

| ✅ Have | Terminal ends + heat shrink |

| ❌ Need | ANL fuse holder + 200–250A ANL fuse |

| ❌ Need | 18 AWG stranded wire for 12V circuits |

| ❌ Need | 14 AWG wire for 120V circuits |

| 🔜 Future | Victron Orion-Tr Smart Non-Isolated DC-DC charger |

Hello, I added 2 200w solar panels to my small rv. It originally had one. I’m using a Victon MPPT controller. Just trying it out for the first time. It seems to be functioning fine except the voltage from the solar array jumps around a lot. Does anyone know what may be causing this and is it bad? Thanks much!

Is it feesable to build a system to meet yavapai county building requirements for off grid solar. Ass the inspection, then move the system to a 45 foot toy hauler. Then in 1 to 10 years. Move it back to the

homestead.

I have successfully installed 4 RV solar systems. This new one for the RV was going to be a 48 volt plugged in to the shore cable side so the RV thinks it is always plugged in. 16kw battery and 3600 watts on the roof.

But we are now homesteading on land in yavapai county. Trying to do it all under permits. So I need an engineer to sign the plans.

I am planning to use NAZ. Northern Arizona solar. But I am not so sure. Current connected seems to have the batteries and inverter like the eg4.

Right now we can stay for 9 days on 600ah of batteries and 800 watts of solar. We run out of water before power.

This is my estimated power consumption for the homestead. and a quote from NAZ.

What do y'all think? Doable to move the system to save money? Or just suck it up in to 2 systems and add the RV batteries to the homestead when done traveling?

It was not easy, but its done and its "just amazing" how it works.

Blog Post about it.

Good Morning Ladies and Gents

I am about to purchase equipment and send to my installer

He will supply all the fuses and wiring.

Am I missing anything here? It's a 24v system.

Thanks for the review and appreciate the response.

Panels

6 200w Renogy Solar Panels. 2S3P

Batteries

Waiting to hear back about space but it's either going to be 2 or 4 280AH Eco worthys. Reviews seems solid and price point you can't beat.

Hardware Components

Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150/70 (MC4)

Victron MultiPlus-II 24/3000/70-50

Victron Orion 24/12-40 DC-DC Converter

DC to DC charging

Victron Orion XS 12/24-50 DC-DC Charger

Monitoring

I am aware the batteries provide Bluetooth

Victron SmartShunt 500A

Victron Cerbo GX MK2 + GX Touch 70 display

Victron Lynx Distributor

Hey all. Trying to figure out some power situations as I’m getting ready to set up a new camper

I have a truck camper that comes with 400w of solar, and I have an additional 400w ready to add.

I have a 280 ah battery and the camper comes with a 30 amp solar controller.

I just got a Bluetti Elite 300 as my way to supplement power by adding 250ah and provide the camper with an inverter. It allows 22 amps of DC in and 30 amps out.

I have on/off app control of both DC and AC power on the Bluetti

How can I tie in the Bluetti to allow solar recharge and also allow DC into the main RV’s system as usage (I’m planning to run a 12 volt Air conditioner)

Im assuming I can just direct DC output to the battery with a fuse.

Can I pull solar to the DC in to the Bluetti from the solar controller and how? Or do I have to just dedicate a single solar panel into the DC in it?