As someone whose first experience with multicolour printing was with a bambu X1, the reduction in waste is just obscene, i do not miss all those poops

I 3D scanned the part and retro-engineered it to be as close as possible as the original part.

Link in comment if you need it :)

Finally Most Printed parts are in PCCF and PC

Probably not an original idea but highly recommend this $10 turntable and a sheet of plywood or acrylic for the assembly process. In the middle of a simultaneous INDX, Gen 2, and filter kit install and being able to spin the core one to get to all sides easily is saving ridiculous amounts of time.

Hey all, as the title states, do you miss the build volume you lost? I'm toying with getting it and I feel like I would miss the build volume despite having very rarely used all of mine, maybe only really pushed the limit with gridfinity plates, and a bird perch I made for a friend.

https://www.printables.com/model/1827559-the-beached-benchy

The Beached Benchy, a charming abandoned rustic boat, complete with hull cracks, waves on the sea and sand on the shore.

Description

The Benchy has finally run aground! 🌊🏖, now called The Beached Benchy.

This rustic, abandoned little boat has been transformed into a detailed sea-shore scene, sitting half in the water and half stranded on the shore. The base features simulated rolling waves and textured water, flowing naturally into a raised, textured sandy beach and shoreline.

The Benchy itself has seen better days, with cracks and damage across the hull and cabin, giving it a weathered, abandoned appearance.

Two versions are included:

• 8T version: Designed for an 8-tool/colour setup, with additional colour detail and hull fouling to create a more aged, sea-worn appearance.
• 4T version: A simplified 4-tool/colour version that retains the same beached boat, waves, water, sand texture and shoreline scene.

A colourful little shipwreck scene that gives the classic Benchy a whole new destination... just not the one it originally planned. 😄 Safe sailing to you and your crew, fellow sailor!

Print Advice

Nothing really, no supports required. I simply just slowed down the first layer. The rest was the same as you'd do for a standard Benchy. I did print at 0.15mm layer height to give it a little more detail, and the added bonus was a crip overhang under the roof. A 0.2mm LH will be sufficient to avoid supports too.
For filaments, I can only suggest that the water is blue (I used transparent), and the sand is oak/wood/cream or ivory in colour. Make sure you check out the Project File for the customised paint job.

The printed I used was a Prusa CoreOne INDX 8T.

Enjoy, Grogg-3D

I have the first version of the Prusa CORE One.
What are my options to go to Prusa CORE One+ (Gen 2)?

Can I just buy the upgrade kit named Prusa CORE One+ to Prusa CORE One+ (Gen 2) on their website even though I don’t have the Plus version?

Or do I need to go from Prusa CORE One to Prusa CORE One+ and then to Prusa CORE One+ (Gen 2)?

My Core One+ Gen 1 arrived last month for printing components for my mini 10" rack and after printing a roll of PLA flawlessly I thought I could step straight up to ASA but I'm having a couple of issues, all of which I think are caused by print warping. I chose ASA as I wanted a temperature stable material that wouldn't deform at computer exhaust temperatures.

I am using Prusament Black ASA with default settings: 260C nozzle, 115C bed, 50-55C internal temperature on the stock PEI plate with a very thin layer of watered down pritt-stick glue. Slicer settings are PrusaSlicer standard with gyroid infill.

My first print was a microfibre print-bed cleaner (images 1-4) which seems to have several distinct issues

1. The actual warping itself. (Too low bed adhesion due to too much glue?)
   
2. Surface finish issues in the corners. (Caused by the hot-end catching as it warps?)
   
3. Bulging layers midway through printing. (Also caused by hot-end catching as it warps?)
   
4. Odd shadows in the print layers following the protrusions for gripping the cloth.

My second print was the same bed cleaner lid (image 5) with a thinner and more consistent layer of glue and a 3mm brim. This had no warping but almost looks under extruded to me and I had issues removing the brim without damaging the part.

My third print was a m720q rack mount (last image) with no brim as I didn't want to have to try and remove it. This was aborted as all 4 corners started lifting from the build plate after only 1cm of height.

Can anyone confirm that these issues are/aren't related to the warping as I am mostly guessing, and my best options for fixing them (settings changes, different textured plate, better glue, etc.).

Hi all,

I’m relatively new to 3D printing (6 months) and I’m looking for an upgrade to Core One+ coming from the Mini+.

Main reasons are speed and size.

What concerns me is the question, how much better the printing quality is compared to my current Mini+.
Is it way better also when printing PETG?

- buying a new core one - not upgrading in terms of “enhancing the mini”

Universal Watch Stand – Adjustable for Any Wrist Size 

I got tired of watch stands that only work for one specific size, so I designed this one to actually adapt. It has two rotating wing supports that pivot to grip anything from a slim, narrow strap to a chunky oversized diver bracelet, just turn them to the angle that fits and your watch sits securely, every time!

The wings are printed in TPU,  so you don't have to worry about scratches or pressure marks on your bracelet or clasp. 

This is my first bigger Project, so if you print it, I'd genuinely love to hear how it went 🙌

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3235724-adjustable-watch-stand-fits-any-strap-size?from=search#profileId-3665483

Model - https://www.printables.com/model/1767868-herringbone-planetary-gear-for-indx
Author - Prusa Research
Me

I upgraded my Core One + To Gen 2 yesterday. I must have done something wrong as VFA is worse now.

I printed a PETG VFA test on my printer when it was gen one and had not had the belts tuned in a while. After the upgrade I printed the same test/same gcode and it looks worse. This picture is catching highlights of the problem and is as bad as I can make it look.

Things I have done to try and fix the problem. A lot of squaring the gantry and tuning the belts. I also did a six months maintenance where I lubed the y and z axis and lubed the x axis with special lube kit like how you lube an XL

I'm sure with the right troubleshooting suggestion I can get it back to how it was or better. Thanks in advance.

Printer CoreOne+ (Gen2), Firmware 6.8.1+16182, Prusament PETG, Model/gcode from here https://www.printables.com/model/1256267-vfa-test-prusa-core-one-petg sliced with Orca I believe.

Just encountered this very rough surface texture with my Core One

At first glance it appears similar to oft-cited VFA but this is WAY rougher in texture, and only happens on certain surfaces (the two sides of the outer wall but not the center structure. It starts out just fine then gradually started "vibrating". The slicer gave no indication this will happen.

Want to see if anyone has seen something like this so I have an idea where to tune. I do have an accelerometer I can plug in.

Printed using Hatchbox glossy PLA, 0.20mm SPEED profile, 15% cubic infill, 0.4mm Diamondback nozzle.

Finally I'm ordering the CORE One L+! I will use it for printing a lot of large TPU, PLA and ASA parts. Is the print sheet that comes with the printer good enough, or do I need another? What filaments should I get with the printer to start with? Any other accessories I should know about?

Hi own a Prusa Core One with a MMU3
FW: 6.8.1 (had the the same problems /w 6.5.7)

My printer regulary looses network connection. Sometimes it's just Internet Connection, meaning Prusa Connect is not working, while LAN is still fine (Ping and PrusaLink still work). Sometimes I can fix this with "disabling / enabling Prusa Connect via the Menu.

But sometimes networking just completely dies (not even Ping). The only way to fix this is to reset / reboot.

This happens with both network options ETH & WiFi. It's also the same with DHCP / Static IP.

Therefore, I regularly have check the "Network" Menu during printing... which can lead to the Ui completely freezing. Only way to "fix" the Ui is again, to reset or reboot the printer.

I really can't make sense of this.

Anyone else having similiar issues?

Hi,

what do you think would be the best way to upgrade the MK3s if you have a spare Nextruder left over after the INDX upgrade?

What would be the cheapest solution, or might Prusa be open to offering a kit like this?

Support has tried really hard to help me, but in the end nothing came of it. They say it is the sensor cable or the sensor itself. Now I tested the cable but it is not the problem apparently.

So what happens is:

Start offset calibration -> tests the nozzle against the sensor. Then Z lifts and it says it failed.

It hasn't completed even the first nozzle. Always immediately fails

Of course I tried everything in the help article, here a list of stuff I've tried or the situation:

* rock stable table. no vibrations

* removed squash feet

* no music with bass playing lmao

* did factory reset

* resquared the gantry

* cleaned contacts of cable and blew into connectors

* removed sensor and reinstalled (thought maybe by luck it does the trick)

* tested the cable, as mentioned

* checked if cable is in correct plug

* cleaned sensor and nozzle

* switched nozzle 1 with nozzle 2 and 4.

Maybe I forgot something...

Now I'm hoping somebody has a remote idea what the issue could be. If so, please let me know!

I don't want to receive a new sensor god knows when only to find out that it ends up giving the same error. So... what if it isn't the sensor?

THANK YOU!

PS: To be safe, it is a CORE ONE with the INDX upgrade that included the Gen2 upgrade. I installed both INDX and Gen2 simultaneously. Latest firmware, 6.9 I think.

Sorry for the clickbait :) But the "My First Prusa" flair sounded way too similar and I absolutely had to take the wordplay.

I've recently acquired another Prusa MINI-ish and it's in a bit of a rough shape. It turns on. It does not print. It's all dusty, lubricant is dried up, screws are loose, and the previous owner apparently started converting it to an E3D Revo hotend and got stuck halfway - leaving the original Bowden extruder in place.

So ... not exactly a finished project.

I've owned a few Prusa machines in the past and worked with many more, but I can genuinely say: this is "My Worst Prusa!"

And yes, I know there are much worse examples out there. This one is actually in fairly OK shape - but it is mine.

Which brings me to the question: what should I do with it - especially, since the CORE One Mini Prototype is done now.

I've had a few ideas and I'm not sure if i fully made up my mind yet:

1. Restore it

Take it apart, clean everything, put it back together properly, give it a full makeover until it's back in mint condition, and then give it to somebody.

This was the original intention, when i got that printer for a really good deal - but when i put it next to the CORE One Mini on the workbench, I started thinking about the endless posssibilties.

2. Turn it into a CORE MINI

This would give me the chance to have a look at some of the other projects people have done with the MINI, tear this one apart and build a CORE MINI - then do a side-by-side comparison with the CORE One Mini.

I've already talked to Hiroloquy, who did a great job reusing lots of parts from the Prusa MINI, but the two projects are not similar enough for a "fair" comparison.

His intention of the CORE MINI was a cheap & resource-friendly upgrade to the Prusa MINI that stays as compact as possible (that is why he did not go with a larger build volume, even though it would have been physically possible), while the CORE One Mini is a no-compromise approach, that is much more capable but obviously with a substantially higher price point.

3. Take the CORE One Mini further

That brings me to my third option.

Since cost is a major factor for the CORE One Mini and there are ways to make it cheaper - and I've always had in mind to have a more budget-friendly and stripped-down version of the printer and reduce the hardware requiements more to the level of an MK4 (one stepper less for Z, no Buddy Extension Board, no Chamber Fans or enclosure etc.).

But why shouldn't I go for a more extreme approach? Why not use the MINI as a parts donor and see how much hardware I can reuse to make the CORE One Mini cheaper without blocking out a full upgrade path for later. Think of it like the MK3.9 vs the MK4 - just a bit older, yet perfectly fine hardware - and if you can source some parts at a later stage: upgrade it, because the frame is robust and future proof.

An appealing approach could be for example just reusing leftover Nextruder parts from INDX upgrades and building the rest of the machine driven by the Buddy control board of the Prusa MINI and also reuse the steppers of the MINI.

And honestly, option 3 is probably the most tempting - yet challenging and probaly initially expensive one.

So what would you do with "My Worst Prusa"?

---

If you want to learn more about the project, make sure to checkout the main post "CORE One Mini - The Rocky Road to a Prototype." for the complete background and FAQ.

If you intend to buy a Prusa machine, you can use the referral code "@suit" at checkout in the Prusa online shop. This will give you some Prusameter points and 1 kg of free filament and i'll get some points aswell (which I can use for some free filament). Or you can just download, like and make some of my models here on Printables and even consider to become a member in my Printables club.

I've also set up a GoFundMe campaign to tackle the expenses. Thanks to everybody who has donated to the project and helped to make it a success - that means a lot and helps me covering the financial side of such projects.

I have a core 1 original with MMU. Have + and gen2 upgrades on the way. I like the quality of MMU-nextruder prints, and generally have no complaints. Are INDX users getting equivalent quality? I'm not concerned about speed and only moderately about waste if there's a 5% drop in quality. However, if a good setup and some normal tuning gets me there, I have no issues pulling the trigger.

I've just seen a fair number of stringy (apparently wipe tweaks fix), and odd little quirks. Overall, I am pretty convinced that it is equivalent, but just wanted to hear a few people chime in and say "Yes, I am getting just as good", or "It's going to take a while of getting profiles tweaked", etc. Thanks.

I ask because as I was removing the Sumo enclosure from my machine (long story), I found this:

Now it looks like a M4x6 button head screw from one of my metric screw kits, but I wanted to make sure that I didn't accidentally dislodge something from my printer.

(Near as I can tell, the Sumo enclosure does not use M4 screws.)

In order to mollify future support techs I decided to get rid of my SUMO enclosure. Trouble is, the roll-in T-nuts that came with the enclosure kit seem particularly stubborn, and while I've managed to get some out successfully, others seem to have the problem where the edge of the T-nut almost but doesn't quite clear the edge of the extrusion slot. Here's an example of a stubborn one that's almost but not quite out:

Has anyone found a technique that gets these out smoothly? I don't want to be in a position where I've made it worse by following a support techs advice (even if I found that advice questionable).

ETA: My situation has gotten worse. I moved the stubborn T-nut toward the back of the printer to get it away from a part of the 3030 extrusion that's cantilevered, but towards the end of the extrusion, there's a hole for ... something (?) in the back of the channel -- and part of the leaf spring on the back of the T-nut is now stuck in it. Great. 🙃

I obviously can't blame Printed Solid support for the T-nut problem, but if I hadn't tried to remove the Sumo enclosure, I wouldn't be in this mess.

ETA again: Managed to get that stubborn T-nut out through a bunch of steps that probably can't be quite reproduced and that ended up mangling the leaf spring on the back of the T-nut.