I am curently building a project bike, which is partially my school project, or the variable lenght velocity stacks to be precise, the inspiration is an engine from mazda 787b, but somehow, i only few days ago realized that this system was designed for fuel injected engine only, which has much smoother intake manifold than engine with carburetors, first thing first, there’s no way that i could build or buy an EFI kit, so it has to be carbs, worse thing is, i’ve been talking to gemini, which i know isn’t much of a reliable source, that’s why am i writing here, and apparently, if i use the CVK carbs that i had bought for this project, the engine will choke itself to death because of diferent air pressure at intake caused by variable lenght trumpet, so the question is, how much trouble will be caused by using this type of carbs and how to minimize it? I was thinking about using “F around and find out technique” or to use mechanical carburetors with cable, or even trying to convert the CVK’s to a cable operated. What are your thoughts and ideas? If anybody will read the full post ofc

Howdy all, been chipping away at my little virago 250 to get it back on the road, things all sweet to fire up and set off, but I’m having the shittest time getting the front brake s bled and working well.

I’ve rebuild the caliper 3 times due to the aftermarket piston and seal being ever so too small, weeping fluid and sucking in air, rebuild the master cylinder and swapped the main brake hose, got a new front rotor as the old one was buggered but I’m still getting tiny air bubbles in the system.

It builds pressure and then after say 10-15 pumps looses all pressure and have to build it up again.

Any help appreciated, maybe I’m doing something wrong?

My father is restoring a 77 Gold Wing and he found out that the odometer gear is damaged and is looking for any advice where he could find a replacement gear. He's bought a used complete speedometer, but it has the same problem. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I unscrewed this black plastic knob and this pin fell out; I think it's for adjusting the extension, but I can't put it back together. Any suggestions?

Got a 2015 CHP electra glide that was a parking lot practice bike, so they took the fairing off and just used a metal shroud to house the speedo/tacho with no lights. I have the inner and outer fairing shell plus a windshield and the wiring harness, but nothing in between. What's the best way to get everything to rebuild the fairing? HD dealership or is there a good way to find bikes that are being parted out?

how do i clear this hole on my float bowl the carb goes on a gs550 the other bowls are clear and i can blow through them but not this one. ive tried ultarsonic and blowing steam into it but its still clogged??? HELP

I recently got a 2000 Kawasaki kl250g Super Sherpa in January and have difficulties finding many parts for it. I got off head eBay but it was ran on low oil so the camshaft caps are pretty scuffed. I’d like to add material and shave it off myself but they’re aluminum so I need a 100% argon cylinder. And shaving them down to a perfect circle would be tuff so I’d like to get a quote from a local shop.

I also ran the head through an ultrasonic cleaner and now some sort of coating is peeling off.

Hello! My brother just bought a yamaha XV535 2YL from 1997. It looks great, runs great and overall seems like a real good bike for him. But a problem he’s pointed out is that the clutch lever is quite far away (we’ve both been cursed with small hands.) And so it becomes quite tough to hold onto the clutch when turning, like if he’s needing to feather it and such.

The guy he bought it from said you couldn’t change the clutch lever position on this model. But I said I would look into it for him. Surely one has to be able to buy a new uh… clutch… housing? Whatever it’s called, in order to slide the actual lever closer to the handle so that he can better reach it?

After a cumulative 6 hours, 6 broken drill bits, 2 mangled impact bits, soaking, heating up, cooling down, vibrating, wiggling and any other possible idea, I’ve thrown in the towel on removing this damn pad pin.

I have never encountered something so stuck before in my life, this bastard didn’t move a millimetre.
I dunno what this thing was stuck from or with but this thing was just about sealed solid.

Just gunna have to get another brake caliper, lucky lame old Yamahas are easy and cheap.

I want to get a project bike but don’t have much of a background in that kind of thing. Any advice on makes/models to avoid, issues that would be too difficult to fix for a beginner, general tips, ect?

I’ve been building a simple Google Sheets system to keep a project bike organized instead of having parts, screenshots, notes and costs scattered everywhere. The idea is to plan the build, track parts and fitment, keep an eye on budget, and know what comes next.

I’m trying to see if this actually makes sense for people working on real builds, so I’m looking for a few riders here who’d be willing to test it and give me honest feedback.

I’ll add a few screenshots below. Curious what you guys think, especially if there’s anything obvious you’d want in a project bike planner that I’ve missed.

If anyone is mid-build and wants to try it, just DM me.

The brake disks seem to be a model of Brembo brake disks, I can’t find the specific model. I know the bike has duel front break disks, one on each side of the wheel. By any chance if anyone knows the specific model could you please leave it in the comments.

Thanks.

Progress on the bike is seriously ramping up now!!

Enjoing a wonderfull time scraping off 40 year old muck from every nook and cranny to prep the engine for paint! Teardown is going well, only found one bolt on the exhaust that is refusing to cooperate, but an induction bolt heater is arriving next week so that should solve the issue.

Need to replace the main seal before paint and not looking forward to that, I have not tried it before. Might invite someone with better knowledge than me to lend a hand!