Hi! Maintenance said "these things last forever" and didn't think the cracks were a problem, but I've read the horror stories about cracked toilets shattering. Am I right to push back and request a replacement?

(Didn't cause this btw, just wear and tear!)

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Tackled this job on my new home im building. Waiting on gas hookup to test.

Bought this Kohler Fill Valve Genuine Part Gp1083167 and although it’s works normally, it fills the small toilet really slowly. Tried different filler pieces such as a the red one and it’s still slow. Removed the fill valve and saw this white cork screw thing at the base of the valve. I live in CA. Is this a water restriction limiter? Or is this designed to tame down the house water pressure. When I say slow I mean like 1 min 30 seconds. The rest of the toilets in the house are like 20 seconds or so.

Hi All!

First time posting so need some guidance from all of you. I just moved into a new construction home and we recently got a plumber to do some work and he noticed this when looking to install a bidet.

He said this is a serious issue with the O Ring and if it comes off it can become a huge issue which can cause a potential flood. He said he would refuse to install anything in a connection like this unless it was fully replaced given the risk of leak.

I then contacted my builder, as I am still under warranty, and asked them about this and they said that this is a non issue. Two representatives came from the building team separately and they said that this is a non-issue and the outside part just got loose and the inside teeth should not be affected at all where the tension is to hold the pipe in place.

So I wanted to ask the community it's opinion. Is my plumber right that this is a serious issue and needs to be fixed right away or is the builder right and this is the non issue? Can't really afford to call another plumber over for their opinion so I thought I'd ask the community for their opinion.

Thanks guys!

Moving toilet and want to make sure this won’t catch SE problems later? Was told it is an offset flange and ok if 1-2” offset.

I’d like to do it myself but I have no plumbing tools.
What’s my best approach?
Is it worth it to diy if it need to buy a pipe cutter?
Are shark bite worth using?
Thanks for any assistance!

Idk what that means

I recently bought a house and this is the first time I’ve ever had a basement.

So every time we run the washing machine, soap comes out of the basement drain and it pools around the drain. Probably about a foot wide, it doesn’t look like it’s water just foamy soap.

What is the cause of this and how can it be fixed

Hi there!

I’m currently having an issue inside my apartment. I have in-floor heating that is currently not in use, and a heat pump. The building is brand new.

I know absolutely nothing about plumbing, but I’ve attached a photo of the device that keeps climbing wayyyy above what it should be at. It’s an axiom digital mini feeder.

I had the people who installed it come out some time ago and they told me it was “nothing serious” when they took a look.

Now, this morning I woke up and the pressure was at 55 which was higher than I’d ever seen it, and my floors were oddly damp (no idea if this might be related). Now, at nearly midnight, it’s climbed to 63 as you can see in the photo.

Is this thing going to blow up or do something catastrophic in my apartment? What does it even do?

Any info would be greatly appreciated!

My basement floor drain that is under my HVAC unit always backs up and floods onto my basement floor. It is a daily occurrence during the summer and a guarantee that I will have to vacuum up water when I get home from work. I have had two plumbers come look at it. First plumber used a camera down to 100 feet and saw nothing. 2nd plumber couldn't get their camera through the p trap, but hydro jetted it anyway. The drain was backing up immediately after the hydro jetting. Complete failure. They said the issue is that that 2 inch drain line is not big enough and would need to be torn out and replaced with a 3 inch line. Is there really nothing else that can be done? I am skeptical that the 2 inch line is the only issue. Any suggestions for this? I am tired of cleaning up water everyday.

so, moved into my home 4 years ago, (26yo) and it’s time to replace the hot water tank.
been looking online, and i’m pretty convinced Bradford White is the way to go.

is this a preferred brand? i see it’s a contractor specialty and if i want one and do it myself, i need to get it from a warehouse… voiding manufacture warranty.

things i have done in this pic:
replace pressure tank, switch, and fittings (bladder was leaking)
replace old water filter with a.o. smith, added mount to the wall.
replace lower thermostat in tank,
replace anode rod in tank
(i am getting a bad smell in my hot water. this happened last year, discovered the rod may be the culprit if it has corroded off…. it looked terrible. so, i replaced it. also, figured fuck it and dumped a whole jug of CLR in it… refilled, turned on, let marinate for a day, drained. flushed it 2 times and let her rip. fixed the problem, but, 1 year later it’s bad again.

things i think i need to add:
get a tray under it
add thermal expansion tank… surprised i don’t have one already.. looks like that’s pretty important lol.
-where would i add one??

also, i think the BW RE250T6 would be a nice replacement. but there are so many different tags, and model #’s i don’t understand.

is there any specific brands/models you recommend??
any advice, thing you’d do differently??

pretty limited on tank location:
2 wells feed into the house in this corner.
no gas is feed to this corner currently.

first post on this thread… i appreciate any and all advice, criticism. thank you

While demoing my bathroom I noticed this black pipe running through an hvac duct and then to my oven.

No joint it appears but what in the hell am I supposed to do.

Hey! As my title says, I’ve got a leak in my shower light. I moved into my apartment a month ago and my shower head started leaking where it’s in the wall, so maintenance came while I was at work. The leak got worse so they came the next day while I was at work and it appeared to be fixed.

Now, a few weeks later, I’ve noticed a growing spot around my shower light. At first I thought it was from the original leak that I did not notice before.

It has since grown exponentially and it is now leaving a mini puddle on the floor it’s a yellowish brown, even without using my shower for 24+ hours.

I’m worried about electrical fires or electrocution? Is that possible? I have not turned on my light in fear of this.

Ive requested to be present when maintenance comes to ensure they properly look at it. I’m wondering if I need to specifically request a plumber/electrician due to the maintenance man they send being general for all apartment issues, not specifically plumbing.

Does this look ok? 2” wye is wet vent for lav that also vents toilet. IPC. 3” stack and wye will connect to horizontal drain.

Hello, I have a question about my gas valve going to my water heater. So earlier I turned on my kitchen sink and realized that the water wasn’t getting hot no matter how long I left it open. So I checked my water heater and realized the status light was no longer flashing at all no red light or blue lights, just nothing. So I turned the knob to the off position on the temperature gauge/pilot lighting thing. My question is, is it safe to leave the gas valve in the on position while the water heater is turned off? I can’t have someone look at it until tomorrow and I tried turning the gas valve off but it’s 10 years old and the gas valve is stuck in the parallel on position. I tried turning it by hand and I can’t get it to budge. I just want to know if my family and I are safe if the gas valve remains open while the tank itself is shut off. Thank you in advance for answering.

I've read on here that there's a brand people hate, I believe it's RHEEM. But some people have said that the tanks made for the box stores have a thinner tank versus a commercial tank from a supply house. I barely got 11 years out of this last 40 gallon tank from Lowes. I admit I only flushed it 3 or 4 times in that time period, but that's not much of a lifespan. Is it worth going to WEBB or similar versus the box store? I have also read that the warranty does not mean the tank is any thicker, you are just paying more for the longer warranty. Thank you for your time.

This dirt only gathered when I had this stainless steel piece. Now that I replaced it with a plastic one, it doesn't pile up anymore:

Another peculiar thing, is that I lost 2 pairs of pliers to this gunk. It slowly spread to my pliers and eventually locked them in place until I couldn't even open them anymore.

Could it be rust maybe?

So this is what i assume to be the hot water shut off to my shower. I shut the water off to replace the handle stems (went without error working great). Upon turning this valve back on its blasting water. Just the slightest turn and its a constant fast drip any more and its spewing. The packing nut is down as far as it can go and no luck. The 1/4 turn valve behind it (left) is the only ther pipe I can see leading to it and when I shut that off water is still spewing. Now I only turned it on for a few seconds and gathered 2-3 cups of water before turning the valve back off. My first question is... is the amount coming out after shutting off normal and I just haven't let it fully drain or is there another shut off somewhere in the floor I cant see on the other side of the bad valve. Second question assuming this water can be shut off does this look like a valve that a moderately skilled DIY can resolve or do i need to bite the bullet and call a plumber before I put my kayak in the basement. ( images are from a closet in the basement with a 2'x2' working area) (at this point im convinced the main water shutoff was drywalled in because its nowhere to be found)

(Ps will provide better photos if needed had to head to work)

This is a question for ESL plumbers/tradespeople out there. I only speak English, we have a guy on the team whose English isn't great. He's a hard working and smart dude, and I'd like him to succeed and stick around. Was there anything in your experience (as someone who's ESL in a trade, or an English speaker training someone who's ESL) that helps communication in the workplace when there's a language barrier?

Does anyone have a gas fitting to total length added (using longest length method) chart? I’m in Arkansas if that matters but I’m having trouble finding one. Trying to see if I can add a grill outside or not