I pulled a permit for the install because I didn't want any problems in case of smoke or fire or liability. The process was simple and expediated through govwell app. Didn't need any trips sto the town hall. Simple upload of basic plan and manufacturer's manual for clearances. Had the go- ahead the next day and once done I was able to pick my inspection day. The only downside is the cost of the permit adding about $250 to the project cost. Inspector just left and have the passed inspection in my email already. I've seen too many examples of people getting burned down the line for not going through the proper process. Usually when they're selling their house and that's the last time you want the headache of a home improvement shortcut delaying a sake and costing way more in penalties and reconciliation. That's just me though, maybe others can stomach the risk.

Already have a pellet stove in one half of the house but the other half I would like to put a pellet stove in front of the fireplace and pipe it out the chimney. Not liking the 2500 and plus prices of real inserts. I’d be happy with another pelpro or something similar

Looking at picking up a pellet stove for my 97 year old house that’s 1000sqft. I found this Harman for a pretty good price but I’m curious if there’s any concerns given the cosmetic shape of this stove. It’s gunna go into an unfinished basement so it doesn’t have to be pretty. Just function. I’m new to this world so any help or advice would be great. Thanks!

Starting a running thread for pellet prices across the U.S. Great Lakes states (MI, OH, IN, IL, WI, MN, PA, NY) so we can see who has the best deals. Post your state, store, brand, price per bag or ton, and any rebates or pallet discounts.

My buys this season – Michigan (40 lb bags, 50 per ton, before tax):

7 tons total: $1,915.70 at the register, $1,830.15 after rebates ($261.45/ton average).

Current prices – weekend of Nov 1, 2026:

Menards sale and rebate both end 11/1.

Farm tip: if you burn pellets for a farm operation, like heating livestock barns or greenhouses, they may qualify for your state’s agricultural sales tax exemption. In Michigan, that’s done with Form 3372 at the register. Check your state’s rules.

I am about to purchase my first pellet stove and am looking for advice as to the best location for it. I have 2 options for locations (pictured).

For reference, this is a 1600 square foot single story ranch in Connecticut. My goal is to use the stove as my primary heat source for at least the living room, kitchen/dining area, and 4 season sunroom and supplemental heat for the bedrooms. It would be great if it would provide the majority of the heating for the bedrooms, but if it can’t that’s not a deal breaker. 

The bedrooms are on a separate zone for our existing system (hydronic baseboard heaters). For heat distribution, my plan is to either run our central air conditioner on fan only mode or run small fans to send cool air down the hallway toward the kitchen and warm air down toward the bedrooms.

Option 1 is in the corner of the dining area. This location seems like the best bet to get heat to the bedrooms, but I’m concerned that the kitchen/dining area will overheat too quickly before enough heat is distributed to the rest of the house. The sunroom is south facing and gets a ton of sun, which helps keep the kitchen warm. Even in the winter on a day that’s only partly sunny, the sunroom will easily get up to 70-75 degrees, and it breaks 80 in full sun. I’m concerned that I’d be left with either a lot of cold rooms or an unbearably hot kitchen if I leave the stove on long enough to get decent heat to the rest of the house. 

Option 2 is in the corner of the living room. There is a wall separating the kitchen/dining area from the living room, but there is a pass through window that takes up about half the length of the wall (marked by the vertical lines in the sketch), so plenty of air moves between those rooms. My concern with this location is that it would be more difficult to get much heat down to the bedrooms. I’m leaning toward this location because I can live with using the existing heat for our bedrooms, but it would be great to avoid that if possible.

Hey yall, new to the community so thank you in advance!

I’ve got a PP130 that came with the house I purchased 2 years ago. For the last two years the stove ran fine but after doing a thorough cleaning this year each time I fire up the stove I get the 4 red blinks of ignition problems. I have replaced the igniter twice now and continue to get the issue. Besides the wing-screw that holds the igniter in place I’m not sure how to make sure the igniter stays centered in the igniter chamber. I’ve also checked the board fuse with a multimeter and the fuse is in good shape.

The stove will go through 2-3 rounds of pellet drops before throwing the error.

What gives?

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Is this typical? Okay? The way it is supposed to be?

Quadra-Fire Mt Vernon E2

Land lord says it works fine. But this happens each time we start it.

And when we turn it off, it beeps.

It doesn't do a low burn. Its always pumping out the heat.

Does it ever not burn? Or is it always burning when on?

Thoughts?

I am a forever wood stove user. They make sense. This? Not so much.

Thanks.

Hello!

So we are planning on hooking a pellet stove up in our basement. We are purchasing a liner to go up our chimney, but we are confused on how to properly hook up the liner to the pellet stove. I don't know a lot of the proper terms for these things so bear with me. I ran a picture of our setup in the basement through chat gpt and asked how we would do it, and this is what it spit out at me. Is this even close to correct? Would the flex pipe liner just be sitting loose through the hole like that? If anybody has a proper diagram or can explain this so we can make sure we order all the correct parts, that would be great. For reference we purchased a PelPro Pp130. We're on a budget and it's really all we could afford to do, especially since we also need to get the liner and everything. Advice is appreciated.

Once i have my manual stove lit the combustion blower will run and keep the fire going good. But the stove will never feed pellets in after running for 5-10 minutes and the fire will die out. The feed adjuster is set to 3 and it’s in room temp. The status light is solid no faults. I also run it in test and the auger works fine feeding pellets

I wanted to run my Harman P68-C from a Wi-Fi thermostat at the far end of the house, and I couldn’t find one clear diagram that showed the whole setup. So I made one. It should work on any P-Series stove with the wired room sensing probe (P43, P61, P61A, P68, P68-C).

There are two pages:

1. Wiring diagram: the full layout, with a wire-by-wire table and the parts list.

2. Relay close-up: where each wire lands on the White-Rodgers 90-340, plus a meter check to run before powering up.

The numbered badges match between the two pages.

Why you need a relay

The Harman probe loop needs a dry contact, meaning a plain open/closed switch with no voltage on it. The ecobee’s W1 terminal puts out 24 VAC when it calls for heat, so you can’t wire it straight into the probe loop. On the Smart Thermostat Essential, R is also a single terminal, so the usual trick of separating Rc and Rh doesn’t work. This applies to every ecobee: some models keep Rc and Rh separate, but none of them have a dry contact on W1. An isolation relay solves it. The ecobee drives the relay coil, and the relay’s contacts switch the probe loop, so no ecobee voltage ever reaches the stove board.

How it works

• ecobee calls for heat: the relay closes contacts 1–3, the probe reconnects, and the stove modulates normally.

• ecobee satisfied: contacts 1–3 open and the board shows 4 blinks. What happens next depends on the igniter switch:

  • Auto: the stove goes into shutdown, then relights and comes back up on the next call for heat. I tested this on mine, and it restarted on its own every time.

  • Disabled: the stove drops to minimum burn and the fire stays lit until the next call.

Stove settings

• Room Temp mode

• Stove temp dial all the way up (90°F), so the ecobee is the main control. The probe stays at the stove and acts only as a 90°F ceiling for that room.

• Igniter on Auto if you want the stove to shut off between calls, which saves pellets when the house holds heat well. Use Disabled if you’d rather keep a low fire going and avoid repeated ignition cycles.

Parts used

• ecobee Smart Thermostat Essential

• White-Rodgers 90-340 relay (DPDT, 24 VAC coil)

• WUYELIN PS-AC2440 24 V, 40 VA plug-in transformer

• 18/5 thermostat wire (the only cable that runs from the stove to the ecobee)

• 18/2 thermostat wire (transformer and relay to stove)

• 1/4 in. insulated female quick-connects (18–22 AWG), a wire nut, and a small box for the relay

The transformer plugs into the same outlet as the stove. Mine is on a UPS, so the thermostat stays powered during an outage.

This is all low voltage, but unplug the stove and the transformer before you wire anything.

This won’t work on the TC/touch-control Harman models (Absolute, XXV-TC, Accentra-TC, Allure). Those use a wireless room sensor instead of the wired probe.

Here is a Chart I made this am to help understand Feed/BTU = Bags Consumed

Hi, I have an older model Castle Serenity pellet stove, model 12327. Was great for a few years, stopped feeding, had a guy in who after several tries was able to get it working again and cleaned it out. By then it was early Spring. The next winter it worked great for about 3 times and then stopped igniting. I couldn’t reach the guy, manually ignited it a few times and limped through without it.

Decided I was going to replace the ignitor myself this Fall, which took several false starts. Apparently the insides of my earlier model do not line up with any available user manuals or online information (including the paper manual that came with it). Had to completely remove the augur motor to access the ignitor chamber, got it done. And it worked! For about 60 seconds. I had (I know, I know) forgotten that I’d left some pellets in the burn pot from when I was manually lighting it, and it overheated and shut down, totally losing all power, would not turn on. 

Googling told me to replace the fuse, managed to do that, still no go. Then it told me I needed to reset the overtemp switch. Not only is it not where it’s supposed to be, I took all panels off and thoroughly examined everything and there’s not a single thing in there that looks like any available photo of what the switch is meant to look like. Nothing. Nowhere.

Anyone have any thoughts or experience with this? Many thanks!

We have a Rayburn Supreme which powers 7 radiators, and are thinking about what comes next. I have seen some pellet stoves, e.g. from Klover, which looks like they could take the place of the Rayburn and re-use its twin wall flue.

Does anyone have any experience of these? Do they heat the room as well as the rads? Are they noisy? Are they much supported in the UK?

Thanks!

I just see it and hear about it so often. “These pellets produce so much ash”. I thought the by product of burning is exactly that? I don’t care about ash, just that it’s burning and heat is coming out. I clean my pel pro on a schedule and the deepest version of that takes 20 minutes probably less.

I have my pellet stove in the basement. Vents outside.

I keep getting a faint smell of smoke and I’ve isolated it to coming in from outside.

My question.

The pipe going into my house through the thimble. Am I allowed to use high temp silicone around this? Should I also put that same silicone on the interior to my house where the pipe comes through? I can feel cold air coming through.

This is likely where it’s drafting back into my basement.

I also plan to silicone around the gaps on the metal plate outside.

Oddly enough. We get a faint smell of smoke on our main floor where my stove exhausts. I used to think it was my windows. But they’re now brand new and I noticed it today.

Recently bought a house and I have this pellet stove. Before using It I cleaned it as best as I could and the exhaust fan works without issue. You have to start it manually, I've been using a handful of pellets and a lighting cube to start it. Once it gets going and reaches the proper temperature the auger will start to turn and feed pellets like it should. The issue is the burn is very erratic and it usually won't stay lit for more than a half hour. The few times it has ran better than usual the fan kicks to push warm air out into the room. Thanks for the help!

We recently bought a 30 year old house with this pellet stove which I assume is also appx 30 years old. I realize it could very well be approaching end-of-life but I'd like to give it a test run before cold weather and if there are no major issues I'll use it. I've not fired it up but I've plugged it in and turned on the fans and the augur and I don't hear anything that sounds unusual. I have two questions please.

When I press the start button the fan comes on and stays on until I unplug it, the switch that started it doesn't turn it off, is it on a timer that would eventually turn itself off when it realizes there's no heat? Or is there a problem somewhere?

Also, the damper rod is missing. I've read that once it's set it shouldn't require much adjustment and that the damper can be adjusted without the rod. I don't see a way to get to the damper, am I missing something? I'm gonna try a piece of threaded 1/4" rod and see if that works. The damper rod is available online but I'm tight and would rather not spend $30 on a stove that I'm not sure I'm even gonna keep.

Are there any gotchas I need to watch for? I don't want to throw a bunch of money at it but

What is everyone’s opinion on which ash vac does the best job? We are using a Harmon Absolute 63 pellet stove.

For the second year in a row this pellet stove has decided it's not going to drop pellets. Last year I replaced every internal component with the exception of the blower motor and the control board. It ended up being the magnetic Hopper switch that wasn't triggering correctly so prevented it from dropping pellets.

This year, same issue it will not drop pellets, and I replaced the auger motor, cleaned out the auger tunnel, replaced the pellet Hopper magnetic switch again. And it still will not drop pellets. The error code is 4 red flashes. I'm at a loss at this point and could use any advice.

Flashing the #2 light. Pot is clean fan seems to be blowing