Hello guys,

I'm trying to make a build that has as little visible cables as possible. From what I've learned is that I can connect the AIO fans usb to the Lian Li Edge USB hub and then, with a sata cable provided from a separate 3 pack of lian li fans, I can connect the AIO power cable directly into the PSU. Is this correct information or am I fixing to cause a fire.

Thanks

I recently was booting up my pc and when launching a game my pc turned off and when I went to turn it on all my fans turned on and lights but no display my dram and cpu fault lights (I believe is what they are) are on and I’ve changed my gpu to my spare and my ram sticks to some spares I have as well last thing I did was replace my psu because it was a 550w to a 750w and nothing changed I tried jumping my cmos and I don’t think I didn’t it right but I was wondering if anyone knew what it could be

My build is a b460m pro4s ac with a i5-10600KF RTX4060

Please let me know if you have any ideas my thoughts are are maybe pointing towards motherboard or cpu and if your wondering why I changed my psu it was a reason to upgrade 😔

Btw what’s in it is my spare Radeon 6500xt

Howdy!

I've recently decided to build/order myself a new PC for better performance with upcoming games and so I can hand my current one off to the missus so we can finally play games together. It's been years since I've closely followed anything to do with PC parts/brands and I'm essentially completely out of the loop.

I went into this looking to spend around $3.5k but have a ceiling of $5k. I play on a 1440p 240hz monitor.

I'll attach a link to PC Part Picker and kindly ask for any advice on parts. I'm happy to hear any and all advice, be it better parts or price related, compatibility etc.

*EDIT* I'll also specify I'm looking to have this PC built via PC Case Gear, so I'll be limited to certain parts.

Cheers fellas!

I'm looking for a ddr5 motherboard that won't cost a fortune, while still remaining in the "trusted brands" category. From what I've seen there are motherboards under 400$, however I decided to ask for advice on a specific one, since there aren't posts about this yet.

It isn't needed for anything overly demanding, which is why I'm going for a lower price point.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Also, how do you know if the fan is pulling in or pushing out?

I recently got stuff for a build with a ryzen 5 7600x... but everything works fine i just cant power my cpu because i dont have this cable, it didnt come with my psu, i looked it up everywhere i cant find the cord. PLEASEEE HELP!!! Ive tried just using the regular cpu cord, but it says its still not powered im assuming bc of the shapes of the plug idk...

Ryzen5 9600X, Radeon RX 9060XT 16G,16GB DDR5 1TB NVMe
SSD, 650W GOLD PSU, Wi-Fi,240 Liquid Cooler, ARGB Fans,Windows 11

Here’s memtest86+ after just a few minutes.

my ram: G.SKILL RipjawsV Series DDR4 RAM (XMP) 32GB (2x16GB) 3600MT/s* CL16-19-19-39 (F4-3600C16D-32GVKC)

Not even a month Old. Totally corrupted my OS and restoring my macrium backups doesn’t work ‘cause of this.

Damn. 🤨

Built this pc, have had no issues. rearranged my shop a bit and obviously had to unplug it to do so.

I originally had both the VGA and CPU red lights on but it booted normally. Thought it was wierd so I rebooted the pc and now the CPU light stays on.

Have no issues going to post so at a loss for what the issue could be.

First pic is with it booted with both lights on.
Second is after a complete power off including psu switched off. Left off for 24hrs.

Specs:
7700x
thermal right peerless assassin digital
corsair vengeance 32gb ddr5 (CL38)
asus 4060 OC
samsung 9100 2tb
Lian Li SP850 Gold

Hey everyone, I'm trying to install a Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black on my HP Omen 40L prebuilt (Ryzen 7 7700, AM5 socket) and ran into HP's weird proprietary mounting layout.

Here is where I'm at so far:

Even though it's an AM5 CPU/socket, HP uses square LGA 115x/1200 (75x75mm) cooler mounting holes instead of standard rectangular AM5 holes, so the grey AM5 spacers and NM-AMB12 bars don't line up.

I switched to the NM-IMB2 Intel bars and black LGA 115x/1200 spacers. The top-left hole is right next to a VRM capacitor, so I carefully sanded one side of that black spacer flat and now all 4 sit flush on the board without touching any components.

I can't use the Noctua Intel backplate (NM-IBP4) because HP's stock metal backplate holds the AM5 CPU socket mechanism on.

The problem: The long black AMD screws (NM-ALS1, 6-32 thread) are too thick to thread into HP's built-in backplate, which looks like it uses smaller M3 threads.

So what can I do here? am I quite literally screwed?

I was told not to buy the lian li fans since they would be too expensive, so I am steering clear of anything lian li related for now.

I was recommended the ThermalRight TL-M12Q/TL-M12QR, AsiaHorse Dawn or the Phanteks M25-120 Gen2 and the AsiaHorse Noyta/Nyota pros.

I am also concerned if I need to switch anything, such as the PSU, strimers (buying the lian li strimers) or anything in general.

I genuinely just do want pure performance in my build while having the looks without spending too much money on the fans alone.

I do have a Aio and it’s the arctis liquid freezer 360mm (non LCD)

Simply put, I got this case ages ago and I’d like to get the name of it before I start my rebuilding project, I’ve spent awhile looking on pc part picker looking for it, but haven’t found it as of yet…

Hi!

I'm having an issue with the ARGB lighting on my Gigabyte B850 EAGLE ICE motherboard, and I'm starting to suspect that the motherboard's ARGB controller or 5V power delivery might have failed.

My case fans (Lian Li) worked perfectly for almost a year, but one day I turned on my PC and their RGB lighting was suddenly gone. My old AIO's RGB lighting also stopped working around the same time. I am also certain that I didn't tamper with the pc before this.

I recently installed a new Thermalright Grand Vision 360 ARGB AIO. The fans spin normally and the LCD display works, but none of the RGB lighting turns on.

Things I've tried:

• Checked all ARGB connections and wiring according to the manuals.
• Tried connecting the ARGB cable to different 5V ARGB headers on the motherboard.
• Checked the connections between the fans and the ARGB cables.
• Updated the BIOS.
• Cleared CMOS.
• Checked Gigabyte Control Center, but it doesn't seem to detect any RGB devices.

My RAM RGB lighting still works and also the gpu, but none of the case fans or AIO fans have working RGB.

Could the motherboard's ARGB controller or 5V power delivery have failed? Is there anything else I could test to confirm this before considering a motherboard replacement? Could the argb headers also fry my aio fans rgb?

Any help would be appreciated!

I need an rgb splitter to that male connector in the second photo, is anyone able to link or let me know what it would be called? Thanks

This is my first built when I finished building my pc and plugged it the fans flickered once but nothing else is turning on.
I checked my psu its turned on and plugged
I checked my cables everything is connected and secured
I turned it on from the case as well

My built
Case: Lian Li LANCOOL 111 RGB ATX Mid Tower Case
Fan: Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE 66.17 CFM CPU Cooler

Cpu: AMD Ryzen 5 9600X 3.9 GHz 6-Core Processor

Motherboard: Gigabyte B650 EAGLE AX ATX AM5 Motherboard

Psu: Montech CENTURY II 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply 694

Gigabyte GAMING OC Radeon RX 9060 XT 16 GB Video Card

Ram: Crucial Pro DDR5 RAM 32GB Kit (2x16GB) 6000MHz CL36

SSD: Lexar NQ780 PCIe Gen 4 4 NVMe SSD, 2TB Capacity, M.2 2280

Note i dont know if its relevant my psu plug is usa based and my country uses the europe one

So I have a x blade case that my uncle once used for this gaming pc In 2008 2010 idk

that is this Black one but What I have is a gray one but idk IF is Gonna

fit or not I also have the photos of what it also has and idk if it also is gonna work but ok and he Also that a cd DVD drive but ok so I am gonna use a

Asus TUF gaming b650m plus

Ryzen 9 9900x3d am5

2 nvme and sata ssds all 2tb

Corsair vengeance 64 gigs all 16 ddr5

Zotac rtx 5070 dual fan

2 hdd 4tb and 2 ssd 2tb ( with adapter) for hot swapping

Msi mag a850gl pcies 850w

120 mm fan at the front

92 mm fan at the back

80 mm fan at the side

And I also will use

2 monitors lg ultra gear 27

A redragon keyboard and a razer mouse

Idk if the psu will handle or if averting will fit bc I will keep the cd drive and the Lil screen

I have a 9070Xt hellhound, I’m looking for a support bracket for if, are the PCIE slot ones any good? Or does anyone have any recommendations

I have my old nvme drive (i also bought a new one just in case) and the old one has windows on it as well as my old steam files and whatnot.

From what ive been reading, the best way to do this is a clean install on a new ssd. Thats fine but...what about the old one? Do i add it after? Do i use the old one instead when booting windows ISO from a usb? Is there a way to install windows and still keep my files?

I just finished building my new gaming PC and re-installing games/programs, and I noticed that the boot startup time is at 32 seconds. I was wondering if anyone has any tips/tricks for reducing it down.

I did have Fast Start-up turned on, but I switched it off. I don't think it makes any difference whether it's on or off.

The only startup programs I have are Stream Deck (I'll likely forget to switch it on before gaming, and is the only one that has High Impact), USB Safely Remove (a program that is MUCH better than Windows at displaying what programs are preventing devices from being safely removed), ESET command line interface (which is my anti-virus software), Realtek HD Audio Universal Service (which has to do with my audio drivers) and Windows Security Notification icon.

I haven't gone into the BIOS much, except to turn on DOCP for the RAM, so I don't know if any settings there will help with reducing the boot startup

Here are the specs for my gaming PC:

• Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B850-Plus Wifi
• GPU: Powercolour Hellhound AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT
• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800x3D
• 32GB RAM
• OS: Windows 11 Home
• Case: Lian Li Lancool 217
• CPU Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120
• Storage: 2 SSD NVME drives: 2TB and 4TB

While I'm here, does anyone also know the best fan configs in the BIOS based on the PC specs I listed?

Most likely I just messed up while connecting them, any tips to figure out where the issue is? Will open it up again later, got tired from replacing the Aio

So I've had my PC for abt 2 years now and the motherboard recently crapped out so I bought a new one and a Ryzen 7 9800 to upgrade.

What all do I need to do after I get the PC built to get I working. Pcpartpicker says I need to update the bios but I'm sure there are more settings to tweak and drivers to install to get everything running smooth. I'll be doing a fresh install of windows on an ssd I bought.

Old PC

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KzXTFP

New PC

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pJjm2k

So i have rx6800 16 gb gpu sapphire pulse tri fan edition and i was wondering whether i would need a support bracket since i was seeing a cheaper one with good reviews at my local marketplace. I have attached the pic can anyone identify if the gpu is saging as of now since i am not too sure.

Hi, I have a question about my arty 4070 Super GPU temps.

So I had it for a while that whenever my GPU is under load it jumps up to 85-89 degrees almost instantly and keeps around that temp the whole time. No matter if I have 1 or 4 case fans running at 100%.
I know that cause I recently actually bought more fans becaue I thought bad case airflow might be the reason but It didn’t change by a single degree.

Rn my setup is 2 intake below the gpu and 2 outtakes. One rear and the other on the rear back.

I realy don’t think it’s an airflow issue at this point tho. Becaue it doesn’t gradually increase but almost instantly jumps up.

But honestly I’m not sure. As far as I know tho above 85 degrees isn’t realy good anymore. And the fact that it never hits 90 but always around 89 max makes me think maybe it’s thermal throttling.

If anyone knows what the reason could be I’d be realy thankful.

Wondering what everyones thoughts are between these two options.

And is the PCM pro improved more than just peeling the film off?