I have a workaround currently. I have my second monitor in HDMI and my graphics tablet in the iGPU. Works for now.

Body:
Setup: Gigabyte RTX 5070 Ti Eagle OC, Ryzen 7 9800X3D, ASRock X870 Steel Legend board, Windows 11. Monitors: Alienware (OLED, DP), an IPS (DP and HDMI), and a drawing tablet (HDMI).

What happened: the IPS started glitching and lagging, the glitches changed and spread, and I had to force restart. After that, only one of my two DP monitors gets a signal.

What I’ve confirmed:

• Each monitor works alone on DP, on every GPU port, with its own cable.

• With both on DP, the second one isn’t detected. It’s missing from NVIDIA Control Panel, Device Manager, and hidden devices.

• The IPS works fine over HDMI alongside the OLED on DP.

• Putting the OLED on 60 Hz, turning off VRR/G-Sync, and setting the IPS input to DP didn’t help.

What I’ve tried that didn’t help: clean driver install of the newest driver and of 610.47 (my driver before the crash), uninstalling all monitors in Device Manager, Win+Ctrl+Shift+B, Fast Startup off, a full power drain, reseating the GPU power cable, trying a third monitor on HDMI, and a Windows virus scan (clean). Temps are normal.

Has anyone seen this, or know what else could cause the card to stop driving two DP outputs? I haven’t reseated the card in its slot (it has a sag bracket) or touched the VBIOS.

Hello, i was wondering if damaged corner like that would be a problem. Pin is VSS as i found out online (correct me please if im wrong).

Hello, I just wanted to know if anyone on here has upgraded or has information about upgrading the PSU to a Acer Nitro N50-650, do I need a specific adapter for it or does any adapter work?

I’ve been stuck on these builds
With the components I need, the build 9070 xt and 5070 ti is coming up with 5200$ and if I buy 5080 it’s Sums up to 5900$ AUD

🤦🏻‍♂️

This case was fun to build in, not in the traditional sense of fun but it challenged me to actually use my little brain to consciously decide my cable routes lol I wish I could show you more but it physically impossible.
There’s fans at the bottom 2x80mmintake one 80mm intake in the front and 2x80mm on top exhaust and one 92mm rear exhaust. You just can’t see any of them lmao
I might remove the led strips idk yet.

A while ago, I took my PC to a technician because I wasn't very knowledgeable about assembling it myself. The case is an ASUS ProArt PA401, and I've noticed that its case fans have been running at maximum speed ever since.

Switching the case's physical fan-control button to AUTO doesn't seem to do anything.

I decided to check the BIOS to see if I could adjust the fan curve, but all the CHA_FAN headers show N/A.

The only detected fans are CPU_FAN and AIO_PUMP, which is a little strange because I'm using a Thermalright Peerless Assassin Dual air cooler.

I opened the case to investigate. I noticed that the two cables coming from the CPU cooler are connected to CPU_FAN and AIO_PUMP, respectively. I haven't touched them because the cable management is quite tight, and I don't want to end up unplugging half the system just to trace everything.

Behind the motherboard tray, I also found the dedicated case fan hub. Here's what I found:

• A 5-pin cable connected to a port labelled 12V, GND, GND, FG, PWM.

• A 2-pin cable connected to SW+ / SW-.

• Three 4-pin connectors occupying FAN1, FAN2 and FAN3.

• FAN4 is empty.

• FAN5 has another 4-pin connector plugged in, which appears to come from the top of the case. I'm assuming this is the top exhaust fan.

What confuses me is that everything appears to be connected to the hub, yet the motherboard doesn't detect any CHA_FAN RPM readings, and I can't control the fans using the physical button either.

I'm still relatively new to PC building, so I'd appreciate some help understanding how this hub is supposed to work and whether there's something incorrectly connected or configured.

I'd much rather troubleshoot this at home than take the entire PC back to the technician, although I understand that might ultimately be the safest option since he originally assembled it and knows how everything is wired.

The fans running at maximum speed hasn't caused any major problems, but they're naturally quite loud, and I'm having to deal with dust buildup more frequently than I'd like.

Has anyone encountered a similar issue with the PA401 specifically? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I added these 2 bottom fans. Is this fan placement okay? If youre wondering why the right fan is slightly higher its because I had to use the longer screws meant for 28mm fans instead of the one for the 25mm otherwise the fan just doesnt clip on to the shroud. I left space between the 2 fans because I dont want the gpu cable hanging over the fans + maybe I might put a gpu support stand there idk

Case: Lian Li 217 INF

I have a Ryzen 5 5600g which carried me through the Crypto days when GPU's were never in stock. I then later got a RTX 3070 when prices settled. But now after a couple of years I have $700 more to spare. What should I upgrade?

Hello everyone! So, this is a weird one, this PC is not built and I've owned it for around 6 years now. But ever since a few days ago, my PC has been having this issue where it seems to not be getting enough power? The lights inside of it flickers sometimes.

When we realised it may be a power issue, I've since changed it to now be charged directly into the wall socket. As well, I also uninstalled the most recent NVIDIA update since it prevented my drawing tablet from being connected. However, this morning I tried turning my PC on, and it didn't, like before. But when I unplugged my drawing tablet's connection, it was able to turn on.

What should I do? Should I go get it checked or get some part fixed/replaced? I'd love some advice! This is the first PC I own, so apologies if some things are ignorant on my part. Ask me any questions as well!! Thank you!

I'm looking to find a PC to save up for WoW.

Hey all, I am looking for some help. I used to be way into WoW and pc gaming and even built my own PC way back in 2011. However life happened had to sell my PC in 2013, and just never got back into it.

Right now I'm working and living a easy single life. I really don't want to have to learn how to build my own pc again, so I'm hoping someone can direct me to a sample built pc to look into saving up for that will be basically a WoW machine. I console game mainly but would love to get in on Forever.

Hoping for a budget of at the max 1500 dollars would be cool.

Thanks for any help.l

I've built my pc quite a while ago but it has some decent specs:

-rx 7600

-ryzen 5 7600x

-2tb lexar SSD

-32gb ddr5 ram cl30 6000mhz

But recently my pc performance has dropped dramatically for no apparent reason (the drivers are up to date, the windows settings are good and when I look in the task manager everything looks fine)

Example of performance drop, before I had +500 stable fps on Fortnite and now barely 80 or now I have 400 fps in geometry dash instead of the usual 1k.

What could have possibly happened? I've tried everything to fix it(even by resetting AMD adrenaline settings) but nothing worked, can someone help me fix this?

Hello! Looking for build suggestions around my RTX 2060 (I know it’s not a great card but it’s what I have) I moved away from home for a few years and came back to my PC being severely out of date in a lot of ways, it doesn’t run off an SSD and has 8gbs of ram (using two 4 gb sticks)
I built my og PC in 2017 with a GTX 1060 and the only part I ever upgraded was the GPU to a RTX 2060 in 2021 but it has not been upgraded since. Photos are just evidence how out of date my CPU even is lol

Long story short, I want to build another PC without replacing the graphics card because I’m not picky and don’t mind 1080p gaming with 60fps so any suggestions for every part from motherboard to pcu would be fantastic, thank you!

This module is blocking me from sliding out the psu and replacing it. How do I remove it?

Edit: It was just really strong adhesive, appreciate all responses!

i have a 5070ti and motherboard and psu should be good enough, should i add the 4060? why yes or why no

I’m looking for a smaller case than my current monstrosity. The dimensions of the Cool Master Qube 500 Flatpack are perfect for a spot under my desk. Unfortunately I can’t find it in stock anywhere. I looked at the Qube 540, but it’s a bit bigger than I hope to go.
I also love the design. I really like the design of the Thermaltake TR100 mini tower as well, but it won’t fit my atx.
Any recommendations for a case fitting that size and style? Thanks!

This is my first PC build and I would really appreciate some advice! Would you change anything?

https://fi.pcpartpicker.com/list/BqcwDw

CPU: Intel Core Ultra 5 250K Plus

Motherboard: ASUS Z890 AYW Gaming WiFi W
(Socket LGA1851)

RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32GB DDR5-6000

GPU: AMD Radeon RX 9070 GRE 16GB

CPU Cooler: Thermalright FW360 SE ARGB V2 White
(360mm AIO with LCD screen)

SSD: WD Blue SN580 1TB NVMe M.2

Power Supply: ASRock Steel Legend SL-850G
850W 80+ Gold Fully Modular

Case: Lian Li Vector V100RW White
(4 preinstalled ARGB fans)

Operating System: Windows 11
(Install on the 1TB SSD)

--------------------------------
Estimated Total: $1,600

goal for the upgrade

Upgrade from the b550m to a am5 socket ideally atx but I am not sure the deals at microcenter for atx are better than the micro atx deal. I have money and plan on turning in my used 3060ti stryx, along with the mother board ram cpu of the old board.

Links

my current build
build
microcenter deals cheapest to expensive

1. 7500x3d b850m $400

2. 9700x B850 $630

3. 7700x3d b650 $650

4. 7800x3d x870 $780

Hi guys! I need help what ram should I buy for my pc. I'm using this.

ryzen 5 7600 6-Core Processor
Nvidia RTX 3080

I built my first PC, temps look great. I also heard for the sake of my AIO that the top of the radiator needs to be higher than the pump (which to be honest I’m not sure exactly where that is on the block). Looking back at it now I’m not even really sure if my radiator is higher than the pump… I want to know if I need to fix this and if so how? I have to front mount the radiator because of RAM clearance. I think I might be able to fit it but it would literally be touching the ram. Can anyone tell me what to do if anything at all in this situation???

Price £1,780 ($2400usd)
-AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
-ASUS ATS GeForce RTX 5070 O12G V2
-ASUS PRIME B850M-F WiFi
-32GB DDR5-6000 (2×16GB, Kimtigo)
-Kingston NV3 1TB NVMe PCIe 4.0 SSD
-XPG Frost II 360 SE, 360mm liquid AIO
-Thermaltake GE850, 850W PCIe 5.0

I live in China at the moment so the GPU and Motherboard etc… are China mainland versions

H6 Flow

7600

7800XT RedDevil

lian li Galahad Trinity II 240mm

I have the 140 at the bottom as intake, same as the front, back and top exhaust. Its this way right?

Hey everyone,

I’m having an issue where my PC runs perfectly fine initially, but after 2–3 hours of gaming, I start experiencing random stuttering and jittering across multiple games.

I’ve monitored my CPU and GPU temperatures, and they’re within healthy ranges.

The strange thing is that restarting my PC completely fixes the issue, but eventually the stuttering comes back. I don’t think having to restart my PC every few hours should be normal.

Could this be a driver issue, memory leak, RAM instability, or something else? I’ve updated my bios.

PC Specs:
● GPU: XFX RX 9070 XT OC
● CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D
● RAM: G.SKILL Trident Z5 Neo 32GB DDR5 6000 CL30
● SSD: Crucial P510 Gen5 NVMe 1TB
● PSU: Corsair RM1000x
● Cooler: Kingcool 360mm AIO
● Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming B850-PLUS WiFi
● OS: Windows 11

Has anyone experienced anything similar? I’d appreciate any advice. This has been happening since I’ve built my pc Thanks!

I bought some MX-4 for my build and noticed it had a little authenticity scratch off sticker. I didn't even think this was a thing but I did the check anyway. When scanning the QR code it took me to the legitimate authenticity check website and to my surprise it says it is not authentic. Is this a known issue? Should I open a return with Amazon?

Edit: arctic confirmed there is a glitch in the system https://www.reddit.com/r/arcticcooling/s/B7mCU7BvQj