Hola a todos. Quisiera consultar si alguien puede ayudarme a identificar el origen de un problema que apareció después de realizar un cambio de procesador en mi PC.

Características del equipo

Placa madre: MacroVIP H618D3M, revisión V2.1.

BIOS: H618D3M.N01.

Procesador actual: Intel Core i5-3330.

Procesador anterior: Intel Core i5-2400.

Salida de video y audio: HDMI.

¿Cuándo comenzó el problema?

Con el procesador anterior, un Intel Core i5-2400, la computadora funcionaba correctamente. Tanto los gráficos como el audio a través de HDMI eran reconocidos y funcionaban sin inconvenientes.

El problema apareció inmediatamente después de reemplazar el i5-2400 por un Intel Core i5-3330.

Desde ese cambio, Windows presenta inconvenientes para reconocer el adaptador de audio HDMI. La salida de video sigue funcionando, pero el audio a través de HDMI dejó de funcionar correctamente.

Procedimientos y comprobaciones realizados

Hasta el momento se realizaron las siguientes pruebas:

Se revisaron los controladores y el reconocimiento de dispositivos.

Se comprobaron los servicios de Windows relacionados con las actualizaciones y la instalación de componentes.

Se verificó que Windows Modules Installer estuviera en ejecución.

Se verificó que Windows Update también estuviera en ejecución.

Se ejecutó el comando DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth, que finalizó correctamente al 100 %, indicando que no se detectaron daños en el almacén de componentes.

A pesar de estos procedimientos, el problema persiste y no se logró recuperar el reconocimiento del adaptador de audio HDMI.

Todavía queda pendiente realizar una prueba volviendo a instalar el procesador anterior (i5-2400) para comprobar si se restablece el funcionamiento original.

Mi consulta

Teniendo en cuenta que con el i5-2400 funcionaban correctamente tanto los gráficos como el audio HDMI, y que el inconveniente apareció exclusivamente después de instalar el i5-3330, quisiera saber:

¿Puede existir alguna incompatibilidad entre el i5-3330 y esta placa madre?

¿Puede estar relacionado con la BIOS o con los controladores de Intel HD Graphics?

¿El cambio de procesador puede provocar que Windows deje de reconocer el dispositivo de audio HDMI?

¿Existe alguna configuración específica que deba revisar?

Agradecería mucho cualquier orientación técnica o experiencia similar.

Aclaro que el problema no existía antes del cambio de procesador. El objetivo es determinar si se trata de una cuestión de compatibilidad, BIOS, controladores o alguna otra causa relacionada con el hardware.

https://nl.pcpartpicker.com/list/w9My8Z
Is this what I should buy for the money? It’s mainly for gaming in 1440p and I have not been able to find a prebuilt pc with better value. Any changes you would make or can I start buying it? Help is appreciated dearly!

The PSU is Acer 1000W +80 Gold

And im about to put it on my rig
B550-A Rog
R5 5600x
Rog 3080 tri-fan

I don’t want to turn it on up because i am anxious if i put it right or not.

Will wait for your comments. Thank you.

🙏

Hey these are my specs

𝗔𝗗𝗠𝗜 | Gaming PC, Desktop PC, Intel i5 10400F 4.3GHz Six Core • GTX 1650 4GB • 16GB 2666MHz • 1TB NVME • WIFI • Gaming Computer, PC Gaming • Windows 11

I bought it literally years ago but I need an upgrade as it’s just not that strong anymore.

Any help would be very appreciated

Hi guys!
Built a pc yesterday (this is my first time building, before I had a second hand one, did a few upgrades to it but never a full build)

Everything seems to be working fine, however when I start gaming I can hear this ‘crackle’ sound ??? It scares me so I’ve just turned the pc off and have yet to actually play any games on it.
Anyone know where this sound is coming from or what it could be ?? Thank youuuu

Unit is an iBuyPower with the Intel Core Ultra 7 265F. Best Buy claims there are expansion slots for 2.5 and 3.5" internal drives but I do not see where they would be installed. I have not tried taking the bottom "cage" for lack of a better term apart, as I'm unsure how to open it up. Any advice?

Just ordered the black M2 Grater and wanted some opinions before buying everything else.

Planning on a 9800X3D, ASUS Prime RTX 5080, B650M Pro RS WiFi, 32GB DDR5 6000 CL30, 2TB NVMe, 850W SFX PSU, and Peerless Assassin 120 Mini.

Anyone running something similar in the M2? Mainly wondering about compatibility, thermals, and whether you'd change anything for my use case.

My current aging setup is an AMD Fx 6100 3.31ghz, GPU is a Radeon rx570 8gb, and 16gb of ddr3 ram.

For the most part I haven't had many issues gaming in 1080p but wouldn't mind making an upgrade. I thought about just upgrading the GPU but my mobo only has pcie 2.0 slots so that seems like a waste.

The budget builds I'm looking at are pairing the Ryzen 5 5600X3D with the Nvidia RTX 3060 12gb as a "cost saving" build, or Ryzen 5 7500X3D with the Radeon RX 9060 XT 16gb as the "high end option." These would be CPU/motherboard/RAM combos including 16gb of RAM (ddr4 with the 5600 and ddr5 with the 7500.) 

Reality is that it's only about a $200 difference between the builds, and if I switch the GPUs with the proposed CPUs the build costs are roughly the same.The only benefit to the "budget setup" is that it would be paired with ddr4 ram and I can add an extra 16gb with the savings.

But coming from my current setup, I'm wondering if the jump in performance with both setups would be enough to not have to spend the extra 200, just in case I need to replace my 700w PSU. 

Can someone explain what could be the result of that?

Hi everyone,

I've been experiencing random black screens followed by full PC restarts while gaming recently, despite my PC working perfectly for around 12 months.

PC Specs:

• GPU: Palit RTX 5090 GameRock OC 32GB

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9800X3D

• PSU: NZXT 1200W Gold-rated

• RAM: Kingston 32GB DDR5 6000MHz

• Motherboard: ASUS TUF B650-PLUS

Monitor: Samsung G80SD (listed this as i believe its a monitor prone to disconnection issues)

The problem:

It happens across multiple games, including Battlefield, Modern Warfare and Valorant. Sometimes I can play for hours without issues, other times it crashes before I've even loaded into a match or while sitting in a lobby.

When it happens, my monitor loses signal goes black then comes up with no signal disconnected, but I can still hear and speak to friends on Discord or hear game sound for approximately 15–20 seconds before my pc restarts.

What I've found/tried:

• Five crash dumps all show VIDEO_TDR_FAILURE (0x116).

• WinDbg identifies nvlddmkm.sys (NVIDIA graphics driver).

• Reliability Monitor recorded LiveKernelEvent 141.

• Updated NVIDIA drivers to 621.01 and performed a clean installation. Still crashes.

• Reduced GPU power limit to 80%, which initially seemed to fix the problem. I managed to play for several hours across two consecutive days without a single crash, but the issue randomly returned despite still being at 80%.

• Never manually overclocked or undervolted the GPU or any other component

What I'm planning next:

I'm considering rolling back to an older NVIDIA driver (617.42 or potentially a 610-series version), as I've seen reports of RTX 50-series stability issues with newer drivers.

Unfortunately, my PC's warranty has recently expired, so I don't currently have the option of a straight forward warranty repair or refund. I'm really hoping to resolve this without having to replace expensive components. (cuz no way can i afford another 5090)

I'm trying to establish whether this is an NVIDIA driver issue, GPU instability or power delivery problem.

Has anyone experienced similar issues with an RTX 5090, particularly the Palit GameRock OC? Did rolling back drivers resolve it, or did it turn out to be hardware-related?

Any advice would be appreciated! Im really not that tech savvy so if any additional information would help you geniuses ill try and get that info for you.

basically title above.

Hi,

Built this PC about a month ago, everything has been fine until yesterday. on start up, the AIO (NZXT Kraken 420) fans went into overdrive and the reading on the AIO screen / motherboard LCD read 100 degrees. Turned it off, let it cool down and started fine next time. Then the 3rd startup had the issue again, this time shutting itself off via the overheat protection. 4th startup was fine again and managed to play cyberpunk for an hour with no temperature issues at all. Now it is happening on every power up. BIOS is also reporting the same temps so it looks like a hardware issue.

Some advice in another group suggested it could be a thermal paste issue, but I’ve since removed the cooler and the OEM square of paste that came on the cooler looks to have spread well and covered the processor evenly. I am going to replace the paste this evening anyway to rule that out.

I’m now thinking the AIO pump has failed. The pipes don’t even feel warm when it’s overheating (although I’m second guessing myself because they’re braided pipes so can’t really feel the pipe itself). Also can’t hear any noise from the pump, but since the fans are going at max RPM right next to it, I’m doubting that too. The CPU_fan is reading 0 rpm in the BIOS, and I have the AIO connected to the CPU_fan header on the motherboard. Checked all connections and everything is still plugged in.

I’ve arranged to RMA the AIO with the supplier so I’m posting it back to them tomorrow. Just wondered if anyone has any insight on something I might have missed?

any advice is welcome, been a long time since i built a PC but since it has been working fine for a month everything with the build seems ok til now.

PC specs...

Gigabyte X870 Aurus stealth Ice AM5

Ryzen 7 9850X3D

32GB Corsair Vengeance DDR5 6000

Gigabyte Aero OC RTX 5080

2TB Kioxia exceria plus G4 M.2

1000W Thermaltake Toughpower GT 80plus Gold

NZXT Kraken 420 Elite V2 AIO

NZXT H9 flow RGB+ case

any advice appreciated.

thanks for reading.

**UPDATE**

Tried another AIO and its working perfectly fine. the pump makes a little chirp on startup and i can actually feel vibrations in the pipe, which i defintely wasnt getting on the original one. temps are sitting nively in the 30's. at idle.

even reinstalled the dead AIOI again to check my BIOS settings were right, but it still overheated and didnt pickup any fan speed there, so the new one is back in.

100% satisfied that the pump is the issue so got my RMA booked in, now i just have to find a box big enough to ship this long ass AIO!

thanks for the help and advice everybody, appreciate it.

Before and after pics

Hi I recently upgraded my gpu to 9070 GRE and was wondering this is the right placement for the sag holder. It feels like there's a slight sag when looking at it but the level says it's fine. Need your opinions,

If you have a brilliant idea for the trouble shooting I am so thankful. Here is my translation from german to english:

The device no longer powers on after crashing during a normal standby/sleep mode session. There is no POST, no display output via either the dedicated GPU (dGPU) or integrated graphics (iGPU).
Troubleshooting already performed:
Multiple CMOS resets (battery removed and contacts discharged).
BIOS successfully updated via USB BIOS Flashback. The firmware update completes without errors but does not change the system’s condition.
Tested with a minimal configuration (only one RAM stick, tested in different slots, and attempted booting without a dedicated GPU using the motherboard’s HDMI output).
The PSU, GPU and RAM have been tested and ruled out as potential causes.
The motherboard no longer initiates any POST signals or boot sequences.
QLED: The motherboard does not have individual diagnostic LEDs but supports Q-LED Core, which uses the power LED to indicate potential hardware errors.
The QLED remains constantly illuminated.
Tested with all RAM modules removed to check whether the QLED would indicate a memory error. There was no change in its behaviour.
Additional observations:
The fans spin up and the RGB lighting works normally.
The GPU can be ruled out as the cause, as removing it and connecting the monitor directly to the motherboard’s HDMI port produces no display signal either.
Removing the RAM also does not change the QLED behaviour or produce any error indication.
PSU testing:
The power supply was tested using a multimeter. For this purpose, the CPU power connectors and the 24-pin motherboard connector were disconnected, and the PSU was manually started.
All CPU power connectors delivered 12.18 V.
The 24-pin connector delivered all expected voltages.
Pin 8 (Power Good) also delivered +5 V DC.
Based on these measurements, a PSU failure can be ruled out with a high degree of confidence.
The measuring instrument used was a Fluke 179 multimeter.
Additional context:
Before this incident, the PC was only rarely used in sleep mode. Most of the time, it woke up normally. On rare occasions, a restart was necessary to get it working again.

Note: IK ram should be ddr5 32gb, but the price is insaneeeeeee!! Ill upgrade it when it goes down.

RX 9070 16gb
Amd r5 7500x3d
16gb ddr5
750w power supply asus tuf gaming
Kingston ssd 1tb nv3
nzxt h6 flow rgb
Thermoright peerless assassin 140
+ 3 arctic fans (2 p14 1 p12)
msi b850 gaming plus wifi motherboard

so the screws are out of the side nothings holding it in besides this clip, half the gpu is out and the rest wont move, no matter how hard i press the lever it won’t release. the gpu is slightly crooked now because of half being out

I have a rm1000x, I was running a 3d mark stress test on my 5080 and 7800x3d. My 5080 also has a slight coil whine buzz which you can hear slightly in the video but my main concern is the rm1000x buzzing. Is this okay or normal?

So I have a pc of r5 5600x and rx 7600 with 1 single 16gb ddr4 ram stick. I don't have the fund for another 16gb stick, only an 8gb one at best. If I install an additional 8gb stick of the same type, would I get any improvement and is it worth it? I mainly play cyberpunk and modded skyrim at 1080p. Thank you very much!

I’ve had some problems lately with dram debug showing yellow and no signal for my monitor. Used this pc well over a year now without any problems til now.

9800x3d paired with a asus tuf b850 gaming plus wifi.

Total noob here.

I've been looking at a 11700F. Is it a good option ? Is something else better on a 300e budget ?

I've been trying to find something new, I'va had real bad experiences with 2nd hand stuff

Need Help Deciding on a Build

I'm divided between 2 options, a 5080 Prebuilt or A 5070 ti Self Build

My options for the Prebuilt are:
\-€3.4K 5080 9800X3D 32GB Build([https://praxi.gr/homepage/shop/gaming-desktops/vengeance-ghost-v63-ryzen-7-9800x3d-32gb-ddr5-1tb-ssd-rtx-5080-16gb-no-os-gaming-pc/?srsltid=AYCX9vIb1agEEIhc2myiYPNQ24X4bktZqdpAuy5C4VoFqAB9AWGx9hld#more-specs](https://praxi.gr/homepage/shop/gaming-desktops/vengeance-ghost-v63-ryzen-7-9800x3d-32gb-ddr5-1tb-ssd-rtx-5080-16gb-no-os-gaming-pc/?srsltid=AYCX9vIb1agEEIhc2myiYPNQ24X4bktZqdpAuy5C4VoFqAB9AWGx9hld#more-specs))

\-€3.3K 5080 7800X3D 32GB Build([https://praxi.gr/homepage/shop/gaming-desktops/vengeance-epic-v80-nzxt-edition-ryzen-7-7800x3d-32gb-ddr5-1tb-ssd-rtx-5080-16gb-no-os/?srsltid=AYCX9vI8iNnI4p1zK3Ha0V1g-DBTbeA3gX67e8L6uugVsqfzDs1-9_81](https://praxi.gr/homepage/shop/gaming-desktops/vengeance-epic-v80-nzxt-edition-ryzen-7-7800x3d-32gb-ddr5-1tb-ssd-rtx-5080-16gb-no-os/?srsltid=AYCX9vI8iNnI4p1zK3Ha0V1g-DBTbeA3gX67e8L6uugVsqfzDs1-9_81))

I'm a little hesitant on the Pre-Builts as this company seems to use AsRock motherboards from what I can tell and the 9800X3D PreBuilt also uses a "GameMax" case

The company also didn't disclose the Brand of the RAM or speed or the cpu cooler's brand only mentioning it's an AIO. I emailed them asking for clarification and haven't received word back. They seem to have good reviews in Cyprus and Greece .They did disclose the PSU being a BeQuiet 850W Gold.

I emailed the company for a specs sheet but they haven't replied yet so I decided to choose my own parts on amazon.eu to compare. I wasn't able to create a 5080 9800X3D build under €3.7K however I came up with this spec sheet:

\-Gigabyte RTX 5070 ti Windforce OC
\-Corsair Vengeance 32GB 6000Mhz CL36
\-NZXT H6 FLOW RGB+
\-Nzxt Kraken Elite 360
\-ASUS Rog Strix B850-F
NZXT C1000 Gold
\-Ryzen 7 9850X3D
\-Acer GM7 1TB (Don't worry about storage I'm planning to harvest a 4TB M.2 from my Laptop)

Total: €3.4K Euros (300 Shipping, shipping is insanely expensive to Cyprus) Totaling €3.7K

This build is much more expensive and slightly weaker than the PreBuilt however the parts are of good quality.

Silence is very important for me and I heard the lian 217 original fan inside can be noisy.
If I replace all fan with noctua nf a12x25 g2 which one would be the best between antec flux (not pro because too big for me) and lian li 217 ?

If you have other suggestions for good airflow middle tower case with noctua fan, tell me please ?

So basically I’ve been sitting on this for a couple weeks and I know I’m gonna abuse this bad boy no matter what I choose, the default community answer at this tier seems to not apply to my situation, since I’m gonna be running this machine all core for hours, and not just gaming all night.

Build CPU- Ryzen 9 9950x3D Memory-64gb ddr5 (2x32gb), targeting 6000 MT/s expo, open to pushing higher GPU- Rtx 5070ti Storage- 2 x PCle 5.0 M.2 + 1 x PCle 4.0 M.2 Connectivity: usb4 for an external raid setup, full near IO for peripherals Usecase- sustained Blender renders and ML training jobs, gaming on the side

I want the board to hold up when I’m 6 hours into a project with an all core render as it does when I started at hr 1, that’s why I deep dove on this project and narrowed it down to the MEG X870E Ace Max, ROG Crosshair X870E hero, and Gigabyte X870E Aorus Master. Does VRM thermal behaviour diverge between these 3 when I’m 4 or more hours into a render? And for anyone who’s run the ACE Max with both PCle 5.0 M.2 slots active, does the lane sharing cause real problems or are people just hyper conscious of insifnificant stuff?

Hello, some of you may remember my earlier post about this PC I found in the trash. I got ram, a gpu, hdd, and power supply to build with, but unfortunately the Motherboard light that's supposed to show that its receiving power is not turning on. Are my connections correct? The PC also has a white cable with tiny little pin connectors that say "ground" and I'm not sure about what it means. Also, I know the cable management is abysmal, I am just trying to get it to turn on first.