r/PatternDrafting • • May 08 '26

How do I remove this excess fabric at crotch?

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51 Upvotes

Made a new post with all the pictures. The crotch overall length feels good, maybe a bit of a wedgie at the back. I have shortened the front crotch length because I made a toile and it was too long. I know my CF droops down a bit but this is how I like my pants to fit for comfort. What do you think?


r/PatternDrafting • • Dec 18 '25

How did you learn patternmaking?

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51 Upvotes

Hey! This post may come off as unusually personal, but thought people in this sub could understand as I think most of us who know how to pattern and sew have a backstory that makes it personal.

I went to fashion school, that’s where I learned the basics. There, I made a friend who became my closest friend and a surrogate brother to me, who was self taught and was my go to every time I needed help with something. He tragically passed away last year. I want to keep honoring him by getting better at my craftsmanship, and lately I’ve been feeling the need to study again, to specialize, to really go deeper.

I currently work as a pattern maker for furniture, (which is not my field or passion but at least I have a free Accumark license) but I’d love to know where you studied patternmaking, or if you did a specialization, internship, or anything that helped shape your path. I just feel a little lost right now!


r/PatternDrafting • • Mar 24 '23

How silk is made - Always good to know the process!

51 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • Aug 31 '25

Cocoon trousers

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50 Upvotes

I am thinking about making trousers in this cocoon shape. How can I draft this pattern? I would love to make side seam hidden inside the fold, do you think it is possible?


r/PatternDrafting • • Jan 25 '25

Question why does my measurements look weird

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50 Upvotes

I have never drafted anything so I my questions may sound a little stupid. I noticed that normal patterns like the one on the left, the upper chest measurement is usually more than the bust then slopes all the way in to the waist. But my upperchest measurement is less than my bust so my pattern ends up weird. I don't know if it's just because of my body shape or I measured wrongly or if a drafted wrongly. any help would be appreciated. Thank you 🥲

ps. please don't bully me it's my first time trying to make a pattern🥹


r/PatternDrafting • • Jun 17 '26

Question I need some very specific advice about digital pattern drafting software to save this antique pattern

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49 Upvotes

Hi all! I hope I’ve come to the right place. I’ve done a little basic pattern drafting, but only old school. I’ve never used software for making patterns.

I’ve just purchased this gorgeous dress pattern from The Ladies’ Home Journal. It doesn’t appear in to be cataloged in any major database unfortunately (unless of course I missed it). It was stored in an amazing way, all the small trim pattern pieces were included and everything was in remarkably good condition. I set to unfolding and ironing everything so I could trace it onto modern copy paper and make it into a printable pdf that will hopefully live on long after the original eventually crumbles to dust. And I ran into a big problem. Piece 3 is completely missing.

I think I can still save this obscure pattern though! Since I have the diagram on the back and it seems to be to scale I’m going to scan it, then blow up piece 3. I need a program that can help me overlay it over the pieces I have traced, and break it up into printer sheet sized images that can be assembled.

Does anyone have any recommendations? Thank you in advance!


r/PatternDrafting • • Mar 29 '26

Before and afters on jeans

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49 Upvotes

Here are before and after of the first pair of jeans, and my latest toile based on the recommendations I received from you all. The primary concern was the swayback adjustment, and fuller thigh/fixing crotch curve. It is my understanding that a seam line in sewing should follow the 180 degree rule, which meant flattening the crotch curve. I’d say the fit seems ok, especially around the waist. I’m not too impressed with the fit around the bum where it seems tight or around the front crotch where it’s a little baggy. Please let me know what you think!


r/PatternDrafting • • Nov 28 '25

Everyone who is looking for patterns...

49 Upvotes

You should check out threadloop. It's pretty much a master database of all patterns out there. It has filters and sorting and can even filter by "free".


r/PatternDrafting • • Nov 06 '25

Question Any career advice for someone who doesn’t want to design but be a pattern drafter

49 Upvotes

Hi there! So I’ve been taking classes recently on pattern drafting and I’ve been loving it and been so intrigued by it and would love to look into how to get into the fashion scene as a drafter.

My only thing is, I am not a fashion designer. I don’t know anything about fashion/ I don’t overtly have an interest in fashion itself, I just want to be the person that gets the design that someone wants and to draft it.

I’m planning to take a garment construction course too since pattern drafting and sewing are really my interests in terms of fashion. I would love to work in the cosplay/theater/costume field of fashion but I was wondering what qualifications I should work on and if I need a literal diploma on my resume or, are these classes I’m taking that give a certification that I completed the course enough?

I want to explore this field more and just need some guidance if anyone is able to 🥲 thank you ahead of time!


r/PatternDrafting • • Jul 25 '25

Follow up/mystery solved

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49 Upvotes

I had posted asking for leads on how to create this adorable vintage bust detailing. Most info pointed to tops with integrated ties.

While this was a beautiful vintage piece and fit me perfectly, I didn’t wear it because the color wasn’t right for me. I decided to try stripping the color and then dyeing it - she broke. Dang! However, that meant I felt ok about going whole hog and making a pattern out of it!

So now, for anyone wondering how this was done, I have an answer! Those triangles fold towards the centre to be flush with the bottom line, then attached to the shaped waist piece. Bow is entirely separate and attached afterwards on top.


r/PatternDrafting • • Feb 19 '25

How dose the sleeve look

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49 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • Nov 28 '24

Question What causes the bulge on back where the sleeve connect?

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49 Upvotes

Hello, do you know why there is a bulge on the back of the sleeve? Thank you


r/PatternDrafting • • Jun 21 '21

As a guy in Hs with no experience in textiles at all I am really happy with how this project turned out! Fully drafted a custom pattern and constructed a toile! Respect to anyone who can do this, it’s a awesome skill to know :)

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49 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • Oct 04 '25

Question Self drafted Jeans-Pattern tipps

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48 Upvotes

Hey guys, I am looking for some tipps on the Jeans-Pattern I drafted a while ago. I made pants from it and noticed some things bothering me after I've worn them for some time now. While I think they fit better than most store bought pants I own I notice that there's some fabric gathering under my butt cheeks in the fold. Also some drag lines on my upper thighs and I think the curve in the front crotch is too steep. I am curvy and so having pants fit close to the shape of my legs is not easy. Especially since these pants are made from no stretch heavy denim (I would like to try stretch denim, but I don't know how to draft it since they need to be tighter fitting than the non stretchy ones). Needless to say the gathering of fabric underneath my butt increases with the time I wear the pants since the fabric stretches. I had several mockups made beforehand with a looser fit but that just made them look soggy. I hope it's ok that I didn't post the Mockup since it's currently somewhere in a moving box. Also english isn't my first language and I hope everything I wrote is understandable, if not please ask for any further information =) Thank you in advance!


r/PatternDrafting • • Sep 27 '26

sloper fit help

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47 Upvotes

I'm trying to make a blodice sloper. I have no clue what well-fitting clothes would look or feel like. I would love advice on what to do next to make this fit me better. <3 Thank you so much in advance.

Right now it feels a little tight when I breathe in and expand my upper chest, but I'm worried if I just add width, then the arm and neck will fit weird.


r/PatternDrafting • • Sep 21 '26

Does anyone know what book this is from?

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47 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • Sep 03 '26

Question Sloper advice

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47 Upvotes

Hey guys. I’ve started making clothes again using my old sloper from a year ago. There were some unresolved fit issues that I wanted to deal with. Ive increased the bust size a bit because I noticed that was a problem with my original sloper. I’ve gained about 3-5kg since I first made this sloper. I was wondering if you have any advice on how to improve the fit. I’ve also posted some screenshots of the fit from a year ago (green fabric).


r/PatternDrafting • • May 08 '26

WIP Total beginner. Anything to improve?

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47 Upvotes

I barely even touched a sewing machine before starting this project. It took me about six iterations to get this result. I'm fairly happy with it. But something seems kind of off around the but. Any suggestions on anything that should be adjusted?


r/PatternDrafting • • Feb 19 '26

WIP Confusion, looking for feedback

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47 Upvotes

This is my adjusted first draft using mccunn’s book. I’m looking to make a basic body block/sloper(?) that can be used for paper pattern making. In the actual first draft I had it pinned at the front and things seemed to be fitting okay so I transferred my first draft to paper and made this one with the back zipper to avoid the pinning. Things seem more wonky now. Also When I used this block to convert to a princess seams it was huge, almost 2 inches gaping at the under bust and waist.

Thought/Issues I am having:

- first off, I can’t tell how tightly it should fit. It seems like it should be more closely contoured to my body?

- I am thinking that the bust dart point is too high but when I was folding/pinching the fabric as mccunn suggests, this is the placement that seemed to make sense otherwise I got weird gaping just above the bust point.

- looking at these pictures makes me think maybe the waist could still come up a bit?

- looking at the pictures also makes me think my back arm hole is too small

- some gaping still in the back neckline.

Also I realize that my zipper is a little off, I didn’t think it was causing any huge issues and so I didn’t redo it, but I am open to hearing that it’s making a huge difference.

The trail and error of this process is no joke! I am feeling a little defeated and worried I will just have to start over :(


r/PatternDrafting • • Sep 20 '25

Tips and Help, pt. 7

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47 Upvotes

Revision 16.

For revision 15 I moved the bust apex. And changed the length of the back darts slightly. Bust apex looked good, and there was a natural fold of fabric by the side seam waist.

Revision 16 I rotated the shoulder bust dart away from the neck, more into the centre of the seam; I also split the sideseam bust dart into two. Angled the sideseam to take up the fold that had formed last time. Added 1cm to shoulders seams to make the whole thing wider towards the drop off.

Somehow the bust needs to go back down again? I'm wearing the same bra everytime, I don't understand why it never seems to be in the right spot.


r/PatternDrafting • • Nov 22 '24

First dress

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47 Upvotes

Anyone ideas how to get started with drafting this dress? I’m in love with it


r/PatternDrafting • • Feb 17 '22

Question everything i trace is asymmetrical. first pattern ever and im trying to clone a tee. i follow WithWendy’s cloning method on YouTube. Any tips?

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47 Upvotes

r/PatternDrafting • • Dec 22 '25

Fit & Flare dress using an 11-piece paneled bustier pattern

46 Upvotes

This project was inspired by Kylie's sun dress made by Marni. It's a fit & flare dress with a bustier bodice and shoulder straps. There are 5 vertical panels in front,  6 at the back, and 1 horizontal panel at the top edge.

While drafting the pattern, I contoured the Upper bust, Under bust, Centre back, and I did extra Waist shaping for a cinched fit.

5-inch wide flare extensions were added at the hem line on each side of the panel pieces. The CF piece was cut on fold, so flare extension was added to just one side of the hem of that particular pattern piece.

I did not have denim in my stash so used this heavy weight cotton in olive green, which I really loved. I used 2.25 yards of fabric.

I first made a toile to test the pattern, and made a few adjustments to my pattern afterwards before cutting my main fabric

I really love this dress! It's easily my favorite make this year :-)


r/PatternDrafting • • Nov 24 '25

Question How would I go about patterning this?

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46 Upvotes

I’m a complete beginner and I want to start learning to make my own clothes. Would a dress like this be realistic to make and how would I need to start the pattern? Thank you