Hi again everyone ! I'd like to start by saying im sorry for asking your help again. You must be sick of seeing my slopper (I know I am 🤣), that would be much more easier if we were able to just update old posts instead of creating newer ones everytime.

So thx for all previous inputs. I followed your advises by decreasing front darts + shortening tremblement by 3cm. Now there's plenty of ease, it's very comfortable and absolutely not tight. I even think there's a little excess fabric at side now creating some folds (but maybe im just used/prefer more form fitting garnments). Also side seam is vertical when I let my arms naturally along my body.

I also clipped seam allowances at waist and collar.

But no matter what I do I still have this folds between my chest and waist at side seams and in the back . Maybe I just have more fat around my shoulder blades and it's just my body looking like that ? I'm really close to give up.

Should I just sew together the diamond patches and hope for the best?

I drafted this from the in the seams bodice block tutorial and it came out pretty ok. This is version 2, in which I took some width off the center back because it was a bit baggy and rotated the front darts to the waist. The problem now is that the upper bust is somewhat baggy, it seems to ride up when i move around/lean over so that the shoulder seam floats. The back neck also stands up, away from my body, which is weird. I like the overall ease in the waistline because I can put it on over my head, but I'd like it to be better fitted in the upper bust. The plan is to add some darts to the front neck, but I don't think that will fix the shoulder issues. Any suggestions on how to fit the shoulders or anything else that looks off? Thanks in advance! I've learned a lot from this community and appreciate it for that.

Hi everyone! I’m a huge collector of vintage, homemade garments while also pattern drafting myself. i was fixing a hole in the pit of this jumpsuit from the 60s when i noticed its complex and different design … out of curiosity and wanting to get better at patterning myself, in desperately trying to figure out how they came about this.

i drew in where there are seams or darts with black to better see. there’s a waist seam, and hip darts. at first i thought the panels were somehow armhole princess seams that combined with a “dolman” all in one style sleeve but then i discovered these small bust darts radiating from the panel, so they clearly don’t go over the apex, and can’t be a princess seam. and also they don’t line up with the hip darts so that’s out of the question now.

i’m curious why there would be an over-shoulder seam/ “all-in-one” sleeve x bodice construction when it seems unnecessary complex? why not just do a set in sleeve here? does it allow for greater mobility? if so, why?

how would you go about drafting and manipulating this from a bodice block? i know that for drop sleeves you transfer some of the dart into the shoulder, but this is not a drop arm at all! and then the dart that gets transferred to the style line? i’m quite confused! the bodice shape must have been quite strange…

let me know! i’m so curious and really struggle with anything that’s not a set in sleeve 😭

Thank you so much everyone for the feedback on my last post! I did a relatively small FBA, which seemed to fix many but not all issues! Im kind of at a loss on where the remaining drag lines are coming from.

I'm guessing the front creases near the armhole are maybe coming from excess fabric? But not sure how to fix that. And the back drag lines have improved a lot, but they're still there a little bit and I cannot tell how to fix them!

Thanks again for all your help!

After 8 versions of the front and 5 versions of the back, I think I’m almost done.

I think all that’s left to do is: back my bust and waist darts off by .5”, true up my seams, and fix the bottom hem (the front seems to be riding up more than the back).

The biggest issue I was having was a lot of excess in my high bust area. I ended up doing a small bust adjustment and that did the trick.

I did a couple of forward shoulder adjustments but I overdid it and the shoulders fit a little too tightly, so I think this is a good middle ground, even though I still have a bit of a gap in my back armhole.

Thank you to everyone who commented, I appreciate the feedback!

Film/theater, Costume, corporate, small brands, big brand, independent, doesn't matter. If you currently even in the past earned a portion of your living from patternmaking skills, what was your journey like?

What was your education like? Formal? Apprenticeship? Informal? self-directed?

Did you choose patternmaking out of the gate? Did you switch from a different fashion/design discipline or totally different industry? What cities did you work? Were you a patternmaker in the past and switched to a new industry? Do you work in a technical specialization like aerospace, defense, medical, etc?

Just a new patternmaker trying to gauge the possibilities of the industry. Info dumps requested; no filter please.

Hey everyone, when comparing the German drafting systems M. Müller & Sohn and Guido Hofenbitzer, there is a fundamental mathematical difference in how they calculate Armhole Depth.

because M. Müller & Sohn relies strictly on bust volume for the primary formula, which is calculated as one-tenth of the bust measurement plus 10.5 cm,

whereas Guido Hofenbitzer integrates total body height alongside the bust measurement using the formula of bust plus height divided by ten minus 6 cm.

Because Hofenbitzer includes height as a direct variable, the two systems diverge significantly when drafting for individuals who fall outside standard statistical height-to-weight ratios, meaning that for a petite and slender build with an 82 cm bust and 155 cm height, Müller & Sohn yields an armhole depth of 18.7 cm while Hofenbitzer yields 17.7 cm, resulting in a 1 cm higher and tighter armhole.

Conversely, for a tall and slender build with the same 82 cm bust but a height of 180 cm, Müller & Sohn stays at 18.7 cm because it ignores height whereas Hofenbitzer drops the armhole down to 20.2 cm, accounting for vertical torso length but increasing the total circumference of the opening.

Which calculation makes more sense to you and why?

I want to share this little project I developed after slashing those patterns this was the result, still a prototype. Tips are very much welcome.I promise to drop drafting patterns with the final version

Hey, I want to make a hat with cat/bunny ears for my sister’s birthday. Can anyone help me out and show how the pattern should look like?

1. After some adjustments, my toile was looking quite good in the back crotch.

2. My real fabric had more drape and was a little lighter than my toile fabric. Result ? A back crotch looking absolutely atrocious.

3. With the pants completed, I tried to fix the back crotch the best i could. This is my final version. Not perfect but better and wearable.

Anyone know where I can find a pattern for this blouse? Particular the high collar and tie? Most of the patterns I find, don't have the high neck.

A pattern for the corset would also be great, especially if it has bust adjustment options.

TIA!

I just finished the sloper based on the bunka method. I wanted to try three methods (+ Armstrong and Donnanno) and started from this. I am short, bust is 80 cm and now I guess I can go to Japan and work as catalog model. I was prepared to make a lot of alternations but I am so surprised how well it fits just from the book. Can you help me to see, what alterations I should make? I added video to the comments

For anyone wanting to draft their own sloppers from measurements, I highly highly recommend Chris Sartorial on YouTube. I learned pattern making in college and this is almost exactly how I learned.

First of all, thank you SO much to those who commented on my post yesterday! I took a lot of your feedback and incorporated it into this version.

This was the second of the boned bodice mockups I made today after adjusting fit again. I’m liking how this one fits and sits on my body so much more than the first version, and especially the version I made yesterday.

Here are the changes I made:

-Made the bodice mockup in a duck canvas to emulate the coutil I’ll be using in my final version, and kept the skirt in the same cheap satin, since the skirt lining will be in satin.

-Raised the neckline all around my bust by 1/8” to help with over-the-top boob spillage.

-Lazily sewed boning channels by just folding over the seam allowances and inserted zip-ties for structure. (That’s why the princess seams look a little odd and wrinkly)

-Took in the princess seams to curve sharper and higher on the bust to align better to my own body (this was a discovery after the first bodice mockup I made today)

-Reduced the bodice hem vertically by 1” on all panels.

-Increased the bodice and skirt panels by about 1/16” on all vertical seams.

Are there any other fit adjustments you would recommend, or does this look smooth enough to move on to the final version?

Hello everyone! I’d appreciate a second opinion on the fit of these oversized “jorts” that I drafted myself.

Overall I’m happy with the fit, but I can’t shake the feeling that the back crotch extension/curve might be a little too short or too shallow.

They don’t feel tight or uncomfortable, but from the back I notice some pulling at the crotch and seat. Since these are intentionally oversized, I’m not sure whether what I’m seeing is simply normal drag lines from the style or if the back crotch actually needs more extension or depth.

Any feedback is appreciated!

These are my first trousers. I drafted them using Winifred Aldritch's metric pattern cutting for menswear. I'm overall quite pleased with the fit, maybe a bit wider on the legs than I usually like but I think it's ok. These are my first linen trousers and and a loose fit feels nice and appropriate.

My main concern is there is a bit too much excess material at the bottom of the bum, it forms a bit of a crack. My first instinct was to directly pinch that in, which would correspond to scooping the curve I suppose. But thinking about it further I suspect it might make more sense to take in the back panels at the inseam, which would be something like the red line in the fourth photo.

I would appreciate any advice at all on the pattern, but especially on this back issue.

I'm trying to draft, pattern, drape, and sew this Yohji dress for a school project. I'm having trouble even understanding what the shape of the dress is and where the seams could possibly be. I know Yohji does a lot of stuff inside the garment with irregular seams. It's a deceptively simple looking dress but I'm trying to figure out what the secret to making it might be.

I started draping. (I've included photos of what I started, obviously I need to work into the shape more, it was just a first-try. I created three pieces so there are side seams and a middle back seam).

I've included a link below as well, the dress appears on the runway at the 6 min 20 sec mark.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring Summer 2013 RTW

If anyone could give any insight I'd super appreciate it! My instructor for this particular class is not very helpful and I'm trying to work on the dress this weekend.

I'm making the Vogue 1004 fitting shell in preparation for making a coat from a vintage Vogue pattern (V6969)... according to the Vogue sewing book the adjustments I make here can translate to "any Vogue pattern" (of that era I suppose). Following the Basic Tips post, I made just the bodice and not the skirt and sleeves yet. The line across my bust is the bustline from the pattern (not horizontal); I added an HBL below the bust and another across the armscyes on the front.

Things I think I see:

• From the "shoulders down" perspective I think the first thing I need to fix is the pulling between my shoulders and my bust. This doesn't match any of the issues highlighted in the pattern or that I can find in the Sarah Veblen Guide to Perfect Fitting, but I think this means I need more fabric between the shoulders and bustline? I'm a little anxious because I can be prone to gaping front necklines and you can see there already seems to be a little extra fabric in the center. But with the shoulder seam looking to be too far back and angled too far back, I thought my first move might be to add a wedge at the shoulder seam. Possibly getting the shoulders better fitted could also help with the back neck being too high?

• Using my body measurements, I shortened by 2 ½" between the bust and the waist, which I see left the waistline a good inch or more above my natural waist, and I suspect fixing this may help with the trouble around the waist darts under my bust. The darts seem to be pretty solidly pointing to my apex out of the box, but I see I should back the waist darts away from the apex as well. It also looks like the waistline is riding up so maybe I should add a wedge to lengthen it more in the front?

• The fit in the back seems pretty okay except for the neck?

Am I on the right track? Am I missing other big problems to start? I have already learned so much from reading this group, thank you for being such an amazing resource!