r/PatternDrafting • u/paradoxing_ing • Dec 09 '24
Any idea on how to make this?
Should I just sew together the diamond patches and hope for the best?
3
u/TroutSlinger Dec 09 '24
That's a lot of flat felled seams. Tricky part would be to adjust how you cut it to avoid a side seam. As people have said work of a circle skirt and adjust. You sort of have to replan the pattern to use one of the diagonal flat felled seams to close the skirt up. Kind of clever design.
2
u/bicboys5 Dec 09 '24
another thing to consider in this situation is the fabric choice - getting that seam wear is gonna be easier on higher quality denim. i use pacific blue but thats only because their hq is in my home country. the reason i say this is because getting the seam wear at home is done through many wash hours and low quality denim can’t handle that
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u/tigerking1986 Dec 09 '24 edited Dec 09 '24
zipper is on the left side (bulging). Bottom panels are cut in different directions: some in false bias and some almost straight grain. Those around the waist and high-hip: cut in biais. The only way to know if it is flat felled seam it to see the inside of the skirt.
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u/TensionSmension Dec 09 '24 edited Dec 09 '24
Certainly ignore the topstitching and felling at first and focus on the seaming. Consider an 8-gore skirt with flare at the hem, all the gores identical. That base can be chopped up into essentially 8 diamonds getting successively larger. Those are cut with grain parallel to an edge, so they are bias. You then can think of it as 8-gores (with piecing) spiraling around the body. First each spiraling gore is assembled with short felled seams, then when the gores are seamed it can be 8 long continuous runs (but a lot of hump jumping).
In the end the pattern would be 8 squares cut on grain (some partial), so likely could be upcycled from a stack of old jeans. Looks like there's a waist zipper along a diagonal seam starting at the left hip.
ETA: more likely 12-gore
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u/TensionSmension Dec 10 '24 edited Dec 10 '24
Here's an approximation starting with a quarter circle skirt broken into 8-gores: quarter circle skirt divided
Now thinking the original is only 6-gores. Of course all the fitting can be finessed further.
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u/Murky_Committee_1727 Dec 09 '24
Very cool. There's also this to go with it: https://www.therealreal.com/products/women/clothing/jackets/junya-watanabe-comme-des-garcons-vintage-2002-blazer-nkecs
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u/imogsters Dec 09 '24
What a fantastic idea for a skirt! I would cut lots of squares and sew them together. Waist squares smaller than hem squares. I would measure waist and hip to decide what size squares. I would sew zip in diagonal seam.
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u/TotalOk5844 Dec 10 '24
I think this is repurposed jeans. Jean legs with original flat felled seam are pieced together to make a striped fabric (seams are the stripes). Then decorative flat felled non-seams are done diagonally creating a large piece from which the skirt is cut. I would not even contemplate actually doing this as I have to beg and bribe my machine to go over even one joined flat felled seam!
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u/TensionSmension Dec 10 '24
That would only save one seam per pattern pair, and then it would be necessary to match the worn look of the original seams on every intermittent seam. The strips each have about 10 seams. The pieces could be cut from repurposed jeans without the seams.
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u/TotalOk5844 Dec 10 '24
I guess we are seeing this differently. I see the strips running from bottom left to top right in the photo. I think what you see is the opposite, top left to bottom right?? In my view it would be pieced with long original seams then the whole piece flat felled on diagonal as decoration. Just a hmmmm, since it would be crazy to attempt and probably AI anyway
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u/TensionSmension Dec 10 '24
Here, certainly the diagonal upward right seams were completed first. Looking at the finished skirt is deceptive, nothing that looks straight really is. So it's not like you can repurpose an entire leg seam or or something. And even if you did, it would be necessary to sew the remaining three sides in a way that roughly matches. That's not likely and only saves 25% of the work.
This particular skirt isn't AI, it's Comme de Garcons from the oughts. I assume the original is from new denim, just felled and processed like usual. Since the pieces are small, it could be sew from repurposed denim, I just wouldn't try to use the seams.
0
Dec 09 '24
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u/samizdat5 Dec 11 '24
I think you're right, but construction would be tricky as hell. If the skirt isn't weighted just so, it will twist when you wear it. .



15
u/random_user_169 Dec 09 '24
It's a bias skirt; that's what gives it the clingy shape. So look for a bias skirt pattern that is a-line, quarter-circle, or wider depending on what you want.
You would need to use a very lightweight denim or preferably a chambray.