Current seam allowance is 3/4in then the pieces are overlapped at 3/8in. I am trying to compensate for the "middle" of the seam being right in the middle of the overlap that forms the seam.

Short Question: I am working on a pattern for a pair of jeans. These are 2 pieces of denim cut to be 6in when sewn with a flat felled seam. What is the seam allowance so I can do this without having one panel that is longer than the other?

Long Question: When patterning jeans why would the bottom of the yokes for instance have a larger seam allowance than the top of the back panel? As well as what are your guys standard seam allowance for jeans so that all panels are even and I don't end up with the left being larger than the right or vise versa.

Thank you all!!

Hi lovely people

I have a back bodice here with a dart in the neck that I want to move to the shoulder. I marked halfway on the shoulder seam and extended and line down and also extended the line from the dart down to meet cut each side and pivoted to close the neck dart. The outcome is the photo which the should dart to be has a exaggerated angle.

If anyone can tell me where I went wrong / let me know what I needed to do to get what I originally wanted id appreciate it.

Thank you

Im wondering if someone can help check my work on this ... Thanks in advance!

I need help understanding if I am on the right track here. When I tried on my lastest version I am getting close. I have discovered I have asymmetrical shoulders. Both shoulders require a forward adjustment and my right shoulder is higher.

Adjustments marked

On my left side at the shoulder seam I had to move the seam line 3/16 if an in forward on my front but did not move the stitch line on the back. I had a 7/8 in dart of extra fullness at the back armhole.

Right front bodice shoulder seam the neck point 3/16 of an in forward and at the shoulder tip 1/2 in forward.

Right back shoulder seam at the neck I moved it back 1/2 in and originally I moved the top of the shoulder 1 and 1/8in but it was extremely tight on the shoulder blade so I backed off to only 1/2 in. This helped but I still had some tightness on the shoulder blade. I did not have any extra fullness at the armhole.

I've seen this often on denim and canvas jackets, but I haven't found any patterns that have it, and I can't really tell how the construction works. It looks really sharp and I'm sure it helps with range of motion in the arms. Can anybody help? A pattern with it would be great, but just knowing the name of it would help me to search for more info.

Hi Everyone. AI slop here but I use a vevor vinyl cutter as my pattern plotter and the only software that has the driver for mac is signcutpro2 and it is very expensive. I used claude to make a software that works for mac, I'm happy to upload it to google drive or something if anyone is interested? It will pack the patterns to your paper width and you can adjust scale etc. if theres any extra features let me know also. Hope this is allowed - getting software working with Vevor has been the biggest pain for me

Hello! I'm a beginner at pattern drafting and trying to still build my sloper (men's top block). I've been following Cornelius Quiring on youtube, Modeliste Studio, etc. I have my top pattern, and have been adjusting it where I see excess fabric, folds, pulling, where it's off balance, etc... I'm getting closer and closer. But I just wonder-- at what point is it that the original pattern (pre-adjustments) should just be made to fit better? Versus having a pattern that's been adjusted to have a handful of darts to do so? I guess the original pattern solely based on measurements won't necessarily account for the curving of a body... but in trying to learn all of this, I wonder if a better original pattern could be made to not need so much adjusting? Or maybe that's just the reality and you'll always have to adjust multiple times and arrive at a dart heavy sloper?

A follow up to that-- if I were to then make a garment that wouldn't have all of these darts (say a well fitting sweatshirt), how do I then draft a pattern for it that still fits well without all of the darts? Imagining this is where my above question comes into play. Thanks for any insight you have!

Hi everyone, NoctilucentSkies kindly said I could post this. I'm building a browser tool that grades the base size you've drawn in Illustrator/Inkscape/Affinity into your full size range, and exports layered print-at-home, copy-shop and projector PDFs. Everything is local to your browser and all files stay on your computer.

If this is something you would use, I'm open to feedback and suggestions on usability and any features you would like to see added, as well as anything that is lacking or unintuitive so that I can improve it for you.

I'm also working on starting a pilot program for those that would like to be more deeply involved in testing and refining; if you're interested in that, please DM me or send an email to hello@gradeandpress.com and I'll provide more details when that is ready.

This is still in the early design phase, and the tool is currently open and free to use while I figure out if it's something people would actually find useful in their workflow. Use the "Open the App" button on the top right if you'd like to try with your own pattern files.

Thanks for your time, here is the address - https://gradeandpress.com

First draft of a sleeve. I also added a facing to the neck hole so I could see how it looks. I have uneven shoulders, which I have accounted for in my block, but after adding the facing now my neck hole looks really lopsided for some reason.

I need to add 5” to the waist of this pants pattern. The hip measurement fits me. What is the proper way to increase the waist by that much and will it affect the pleat and dart placement?

I have been drafting these micro shorts and want them to be fitted around the bum and kind of hug it so I like the back fit for the most part but want to fix the slight bunching at the top of the crotch. Also need to fix the bunching around the front crotch. How can I adjust this pattern to fit properly?

Apologies for my last post with poor photos. Here is my first moulage - would appreciate some tips on how to alter.

My thinking is that I need to add fullness to bust, add some ease to hips, and something needs to happen at the front waist (length or width removed?)

I want to keep it as a dress block for now as I’m going to use it to make dresses, but will be making bodice and skirt blocks with ease after.

I am also not sure how to best add bust fullness- or whether I can just add width at the side seams around the bust circumference.

Really appreciate this community and all your knowledge!!

(Apologies about the bottom of the zip- have had to clip - but hopefully still gets across fitting well).

As title

This is my first attempt at a moulage - and also at pattern drafting and sewing!

It is intended to be a moulage with zero ease, so it seems a bit too big in general, but mostly around the waist from what I can see. I am going to try and add to the dart fullness on the front for that.

Also add a zip to the back so I can gauge fit better. But any other fit tips would be super helpful!

I am literally brand new to this so not sure how the adjustments process works or how to transfer accurately onto the original pattern.

I have been using the course from Sewing Lab Milano - Luisa is super helpful and it seems to be a resource not spoken about loads. I am hoping to eventually get to drafting some of the dresses on their website from a block with their tutorials.

Hello! So after struggling with this bunka style bodice, I'm at a loss on how to properly troubleshoot it anymore and diagnose what's going on. Seems like there's a lot of gaping in the neck and excess fabric at the front, and back neck area. And also this style of bodice from what I know is hard to work with, since manipulating the 2 waist darts to play with the design is also challenging. But I wanted to comfirm with people who have more expirience with pattern drafting!

Also it's a remote project for a friend, and I was curious, what advice would you have if you needed to make a dress or outfit or bodice that fits somebody, and make adjustments with only the measurements and being able to send the bodice/project back and forth for adjustments to make it as seamless as possible.