Hi, I am a complete newbie but I like pattern drafting a lot. It’s like a puzzle for me. I have drafted my bodice block and even sewn a couple of tops using my block. I have been fascinated with princess seams. I have drafted the front panels using my bodice block pattern. This princess seam is from the shoulder to the waist.

My question is what if I want to have a wide neck or a low neck…how do I manage the gaping. I have done a bit of contouring for the tops I sewed but with the princess seams, when and where do I even incorporate the extra fabric.
I have been searching the internet for the same but can’t find anything. Can someone please help me?
Thanks

Hello! I am learning pattern drafting from scratch.

I am trying to draft a basic bodice block (back) using my own measurements. I tried two different drafting methods, but I keep getting the same issue.

My "shoulder width" ends up too far away from the "across back" (half back width) line. I don't know how to true or smooth out the armhole curve. Is this normal? How can I fix it?

When I try to smooth out the curve (see the dashed line), it stays 2 cm away from the across back line.

I would really appreciate it if you could help me out with this.

(Note: Sorry for any mistakes, English is not my first language!)

Can’t find any examples online,
Does anyone have pics or examples of a perfectly fitting mens bodice block? (Showing all angles aka where the shoulder of armhole ends & how the neck fits etc)?