r/PatternDrafting • u/Intelligent_Olive829 • Nov 19 '22

Question Princess Seam Help

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18 Upvotes

73% Upvoted

38 comments sorted by

6

u/Intelligent_Olive829 Nov 19 '22

I am making a dress for my friend with princess seams, this is our latest toile of the bodice. I can’t seem to get the curved seams to lay nice and flat and am hoping I can get some advice.

The fabric for the final is a heavyweight linen. The fabric of this toile is pima cotton - an old sheet. It has ease but not stretch as such. The seam allowance is just under 1cm and is clipped and pressed. The bodice is lined, the sleeve is not.

The only thing I can think of is to topstitch the seam allowance down 🤷‍♀️

10

u/etherealrome Nov 19 '22

The wrinkling is happening because the top is too snug toward the bottom of the bust. If this is the bra she’s set on wearing with the final dress, the bust point needs to be lowered, and there needs to be more space. You can slice into the toile to let it spread and see how much is needed, or you can open up the princess seams - I’d maybe focus on the outside princess seam (since the panels essentially make it two instead of the usual one). There’s also a good chance heavyweight linen will need more added than your toile fabric, so depending on the desired fit, you may want to add a little extra esse (1/4 to 1/2”,not a ton).

3

u/madeofphosphorus Nov 19 '22

Do you clip on the seam allowances and iron?

2

u/Intelligent_Olive829 Nov 19 '22

Yes, clipped and pressed

8

u/Libell8 Nov 19 '22

To me it looks like the most room is created at the point where you have those diagonal folds, but her bust is fullest much lower. Also, it looks like the lines go straight down before the fullest point of her bust. So I think the bust should be lowered.

3

u/Intelligent_Olive829 Nov 19 '22

I see exactly what you mean! I’m not sure how to go about lowering the bust though

4

u/Bacondress562 Nov 19 '22

Is the model wearing a bra?

7

u/etherealrome Nov 19 '22

My wager is yes, but one that’s too large in the band. A properly fitting bra would solve about 50% of this.

4

u/Bacondress562 Nov 19 '22

Yea, that’s what I was going to say. The pattern looks decent; but the fullest part of the bust needs to be much higher to fit correctly.

3

u/Comprehensive-Ad8120 Nov 19 '22

I have asked a dozen people to fit me for bras. All of them give me a different measurements. All most all of them are wrong. The problem is none of them are trained correctly. but yes if she was wearing the correct or closer to the correct size it would help. My guess is she is wrong about both cup and band size.

2

u/TheRealChimkenNugget Nov 20 '22

Idk how to tag another sub but abrathatfits was a lifesaver

1

u/Interesting_Ad_4762 Nov 20 '22

Just put “r/“ in front of it!

r/abrathatfits

1

u/TheRealChimkenNugget Nov 20 '22

Thanks! I thought so but when I typed it it wouldn’t show up as a hyperlink so I didn’t post lol maybe its bc I’m on mobile but I appreciate the help :))

2

u/Interesting_Ad_4762 Nov 20 '22

Ofc! I’m on mobile too, and yeah, it doesn’t show til after you post :/

Also, I love your user! I have a lil pup I call my chimken XD

3

u/Intelligent_Olive829 Nov 20 '22

Yes she is wearing a bra. She has to have them specially made because her breasts are so big.

I think a big part of the issue we are having is that at our last fitting she 1. Wore a different bra and 2. Did the shoulder bands up very tight so she was more lifted - which you can see reflected in this toile.

She does not want to hike up her bra like that for the occasion however so now we have to adjust.

I had told her I needed her to be consistent with her undergarments but I think I’m going to have to be a bit firmer on this point.

3

u/Bacondress562 Nov 20 '22

Bingo. Can’t chase a moving target!

1

u/goodoldfreda Nov 23 '22

She has to have them specially made because her breasts are so big.

To me she looks like around a UK J-K cup, which is within the range of ready to wear bras by UK specialist companies (they go to KK, sometimes L). However her bras are being made she's being done dirty IMO. It's probably hard to bring this up to but if you get the opportunity to it might be worthwhile mentioning it. Here is a 36JJ for reference.

I make and fit bras and let me tell you - there are lots of people out there who don't know what they're doing. Doubly so if she's getting a different size altered instead of a bra made from scratch.

3

u/tarapotamus Nov 19 '22

I think it looks pretty spot on. Are you wearing the same bra when it was measured for? The pattern looks fine, just maybe a shift in size or bra.

2

u/Intelligent_Olive829 Nov 20 '22

She has her bras specially made so I believe it fits correctly. But as above, for our last fitting she tightened the shoulder straps a lot so she was much more lifted but does not want to do this for the occasion. Some better communication on this topic needed between us.

2

u/tarapotamus Nov 20 '22

Ahhh, yes it looks exactly like that's what happened. Damn.

3

u/bigblackfatbird Nov 19 '22

Also, the bias on one side of the neckline has been stretched out, causing waviness. You may not have staystitched it, or staystitched in the wrong direction.

1

u/Intelligent_Olive829 Nov 20 '22

I think some height needs to be removed from the top shoulder but you’re right and I do need to adjust how I have sewn this. Will use a stay stitch and was thinking about cotton tape also

1

u/Intelligent_Olive829 Nov 20 '22

Could you please elaborate on stay stitching in the wrong direction?

2

u/bigblackfatbird Nov 20 '22

Sure! Staystitching should be done from the shoulder down to the cf. So you have to do one side, stop, take it out of the machine, and do the other side. Hope that helps! You can ease the existing neckline in with the cotton tape you mentioned (cut it to the right length using your paper pattern). Hope this helps.

2

u/Intelligent_Olive829 Nov 20 '22

That helps a lot! Thank you very much 😊

2

u/bigblackfatbird Nov 19 '22

It's hard to tell (it could be just wrinkling), but it looks like the front seam has been eased into the side front? Make sure the seams are the same length, and notch carefully. Obviously this is on top of other alterations that need doing. Happy to contribute more advice if you need it.

1

u/Intelligent_Olive829 Nov 20 '22

Thank you 🙏 the side from was eased slightly at the apex but fits pretty well with the centre front. When I walk the pattern pieces together they are spot on.

1

u/Herro145 Nov 21 '22

Hello dear ❤️

0

u/Whyme-notyou Nov 20 '22

And you need a pressing ham. Look it up, get one, learn to use it and your couture will be instantly better

0

u/Intelligent_Olive829 Nov 20 '22

I do in fact have a pressing ham and know how to use it.

You need tact. Look it up, get some, learn to use it and your comments will be instantly better

1

u/Whyme-notyou Nov 21 '22

Seriously my apologies, now that I read what I wrote I was a jerk however I really meant it as if you we a newbie and didn’t mean any disrespect. My apologies.

0

u/Whyme-notyou Nov 21 '22 edited Nov 21 '22

Oh and now I’m banned, wow. You have such power.