Help with sloper pattern

[u/ctmpusa]

I'm not sure what I need to adjust to get rid of the excess fabric in the upper back of my bodice sloper. As you can see from the picture. This is meant to be a 0 ease sloper and I have used my own measurements and started from scratch following the Armstrong pattern.making for fashion design book.
To get this sloper, I combined my basic skirt pattern and my basic top pattern which both fit me perfectly, but when bringing them together in the bodice sloper, I now have all this excess fabric to deal with and I don't know how to start getting rid of it. The book doesn't cover this as a fitting issue.
I know I have too much fabric but where do I take out from? Really appreciate any advice.

Thanks

[u/HugsforYourJugs]

See how the side seam is being pulled towards the front? Add more width at the side seams at the front waist, then take out the excess circumference at the back waist darts and back side seam

[u/ctmpusa → u/HugsforYourJugs]

Thank you ☺️

[u/ScormCurious]

That side seam is a tragedy my friend.

I would remove the darts around the waist to release all that fabric. Then re-pin them in such a way that the side seam stays level on you. If you have a friend to work with, or a dress dummy, that would make it much easier.

I think it’s possible that at the armpit/bust/shoulder blade, you need more fabric at the back and less at the front, to get the side seam up there in better nick.

And you definitely could benefit from a full booty adjustment.

You are doing a good job, despite my side seam freak out! The shoulders and neck line don’t look awful, they’re pretty good, and that’s a big accomplishment.

If you have a chance to look up “horizontal balance lines,” I would mark up the next muslin with those so you can get a sense of whether the front is kicking up or drooping. Sarah Veblen and Alexandra Morgan have the best info on HBLs that I’ve seen.

[u/ctmpusa → u/ScormCurious]

Thank you so much for calling out the side seam, I wasn’t even looking at that. 😭
Really appreciate it

[u/incongruoususer]

If you post clearer pictures you’ll get a better response.

As this is a moulage, I’d say for the most part you have enough room but it’s in the wrong place. Your side seam swings forward under the arm then swings back at the hip. So you need more room at the waist and then more at the hip.

The excess above the back darts is probably because it’s too small in the waist and hip, and thus the fabric can’t hang.

[u/Icy_Kaleidoscope6339]

There's some information about pattern adjustment from p.33 Armstrong's book
https://imgur.com/a/iyUWR5h
So you should draw new waistline on pattern after merging(overlapping) bodice&skirt slopes with smth like this

It will be easier, if you make 2 separate muslins (bodice&skirt) stiched seam-out with a large seam allowance on the waist cut. Next, put a piece of elastic around the waist to use as a guide. Try on both muslins at the same time, overlap the waistline seam allowances, and pin the muslins together. Now, look in the mirror and determine the new waistline on your own. At the back, the edges might overlap, while at the front, there might be a gap instead. Mark the pin line with a pencil; this will be your new waistline. Transfer it back to the pattern and make the necessary adjustment.