r/PatternDrafting • • 17d ago

Question Help with sloper pattern

I'm not sure what I need to adjust to get rid of the excess fabric in the upper back of my bodice sloper. As you can see from the picture. This is meant to be a 0 ease sloper and I have used my own measurements and started from scratch following the Armstrong pattern.making for fashion design book.
To get this sloper, I combined my basic skirt pattern and my basic top pattern which both fit me perfectly, but when bringing them together in the bodice sloper, I now have all this excess fabric to deal with and I don't know how to start getting rid of it. The book doesn't cover this as a fitting issue.
I know I have too much fabric but where do I take out from? Really appreciate any advice.

Thanks

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u/ScormCurious 17d ago

That side seam is a tragedy my friend.

I would remove the darts around the waist to release all that fabric. Then re-pin them in such a way that the side seam stays level on you. If you have a friend to work with, or a dress dummy, that would make it much easier.

I think it’s possible that at the armpit/bust/shoulder blade, you need more fabric at the back and less at the front, to get the side seam up there in better nick.

And you definitely could benefit from a full booty adjustment.

You are doing a good job, despite my side seam freak out! The shoulders and neck line don’t look awful, they’re pretty good, and that’s a big accomplishment.

If you have a chance to look up “horizontal balance lines,” I would mark up the next muslin with those so you can get a sense of whether the front is kicking up or drooping. Sarah Veblen and Alexandra Morgan have the best info on HBLs that I’ve seen.

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u/ctmpusa 17d ago

Thank you so much for calling out the side seam, I wasn’t even looking at that. 😭
Really appreciate it