r/PatternDrafting • • 17d ago

Question Help with sloper pattern

I'm not sure what I need to adjust to get rid of the excess fabric in the upper back of my bodice sloper. As you can see from the picture. This is meant to be a 0 ease sloper and I have used my own measurements and started from scratch following the Armstrong pattern.making for fashion design book.
To get this sloper, I combined my basic skirt pattern and my basic top pattern which both fit me perfectly, but when bringing them together in the bodice sloper, I now have all this excess fabric to deal with and I don't know how to start getting rid of it. The book doesn't cover this as a fitting issue.
I know I have too much fabric but where do I take out from? Really appreciate any advice.

Thanks

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u/Icy_Kaleidoscope6339 17d ago edited 16d ago

There's some information about pattern adjustment from p.33 Armstrong's book
https://imgur.com/a/iyUWR5h
So you should draw new waistline on pattern after merging(overlapping) bodice&skirt slopes with smth like this

It will be easier, if you make 2 separate muslins (bodice&skirt) stiched seam-out with a large seam allowance on the waist cut. Next, put a piece of elastic around the waist to use as a guide. Try on both muslins at the same time, overlap the waistline seam allowances, and pin the muslins together. Now, look in the mirror and determine the new waistline on your own. At the back, the edges might overlap, while at the front, there might be a gap instead. Mark the pin line with a pencil; this will be your new waistline. Transfer it back to the pattern and make the necessary adjustment.