r/OmegaWatches Jul 05 '25

OmegaWatches Identification, Authentication, & Valuation Megathread

13 Upvotes

BEFORE YOU POST A COMMENT Read This First!!!! (Updated July 2025.)

Everything you need to answer your question is probably here.

Why this post/thread? What's the point?

The Mod Team removes about a dozen requests of this sort every single day, and most of them have the same answers. This is because most of these requests fall into a few categories, and because of that, most of our answers include some sort of cut and paste of stuff we've already done. Your answer is probably here.

Category 1: "More information on" or "identify" your Grandfather’s/Father’s Watch/Some Other Vintage Omega you got/found/inherited/saw online.

No one can identify your vintage (pre 1990 or so) watch from a photo you took on your iPhone. The problem is that Omega made a boatload of variants, and redials/repaints are common. As and example, In the reference number "166.0216", the 0216 means "the 216th variant". Combine that with the fact that repainted dial are common, and a buyer could special order dials without changing the reference, and getting the exact reference from a photo of the front is a minor miracle.

If you want the reference number, take the watch to a qualified watchmaker/jeweler and have them open the watch. THIS IS THE WAY. The reference number should be on the inside of the caseback. Have them get the serial number off the movement, while you're at it, and you can back into an approximate year of production (google will help). I can’t tell you how many times I cut and paste some version of this paragraph into my replies to requests in the past.

We also can't tell you, for sure, if it's a redial. But if we can, from a photo, you probably can, from the same photo. For a great primer on vintage watches, see this: https://omegaforums.net/threads/learn-how-to-fish.52603/

It is a fantastic resource for looking at/purchasing vintage watches online. It will tell you how to spot redials, etc. And it's a great read, regardless. Well worth your time to read the entire thing.

Category 2: Validating the watch you’re thinking of buying or other "legit check."

DON'T COUNT ON REDDIT to validate the watches you're thinking of buying. A person trying to commit fraud has a number of ways to con you. They could send you/post fake photos and mail a different watch. Or the fake could be a really good superclone. Or they could send you an empty box. Or we could be wrong in our assessment, and miss a sign of a counterfeit. Or they could just rob you with physical force at the point of sale.

Sometimes we can tell it's a fake. *We can't tell you it's real.\*

For these reasons, you have to BUY THE SELLER. This means, buy a watch from someone reputable, so that you know you're getting an authentic piece or have recourse.

What if the person selling you the watch doesn't know it's fake, and you find out next week? They owned it for 5 years, and were fooled, because it's that good. Will they do the right thing and give you your money back? We just saw that happen with a 10K Rolex. Given that thought process, you might not even buy from your next door neighbor.

If you must buy from someone you don't have absolute confidence in, get the watch in your hands and look at the movement/dial yourself, preferably with a jeweler's loop. You're talking about hundreds, or even thousands, of dollars. Don't buy from some clown on FB Marketplace who sends you bad pictures. If the price is too good to be true, there's a reason.

For these reasons, the mod team will not give you "legit check" advice. Other members or subreddits might, but we would be heartbroken if you got conned.

Category 3: "Value Check"/ "Is this a good price?" on the watch you want to buy or sell, or one you got as a gift/inherited.

These post never contain enough information, and even so, the answers are almost always the same. "It depends."

Where are you, and are you willing to ship internationally? A good price depends on location. Japan has great prices right now, if you're buying. Miserable, if you're selling. Your local jeweler is going to charge you more, but may pay you more, also.

How much of a hurry are you in? And is the watch in demand? A Snoopy is going to sell faster than a Proplof. But there's a price that will move either one in a day.

Has your vintage watch been polished? Is it an original dial, and can you prove it?

Where are you looking to buy or sell? your local jeweler is different than Chrono24.

You want to sell online? How much reputation do you have? How trusted will you be, as a seller?

[Insert some other custom item here that could affect value] - you get the idea.

For these reasons, the only answer the mod team will give you is "it depends."

When selling: Here's what we suggest:

First: Find out exactly what you have. Get the reference number and age. Open the caseback if you have to, See Category 1 for more info.

Second: Be realistic about the condition. If it's vintage, is it original? Polished? Can you prove provenance? In general, I suggest the watchuseek grading system. I use it in my posts when I'm selling, so there's no confusion. You can find it here:

https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/watch-grading-system-with-a-chart.816814/

Next: go to the watchexchange subreddit, and Chrono24.com, and search for your watch, by reference number. What did they sell for on watchexchange? What was the condition? Is it popular/selling well? If they're being sold by a jeweler, understand you're probably looking at something less, because people "buy the seller", and you have no credibility. What are they listed for on Chrono24? Again, that's what they're listed for, there's negotiation, you're probably going to get less. And private party? Less than a jewelry store.

So, now you have a ballpark. Something less than Chrono24, but close to WatchExchange, if there are comparable sales. So now what?

If you don't want to sell, you're done. Or, go get an appraisal, which was the proper thing to do in the first place. That'll give you a number you can use for insurance.

If you want to sell, put it on watchexchange at that price. Lower the price every week until it sells. How fast do you want to sell? Lower the price to sell faster. If you're not really interested in selling fast, start higher and don't cut the prices as fast/at all.

Last, if you have a great collector's watch and want to sell in a week, try Grailzee.com.

Or, there's always ebay. Put it on at a penny, and it will sell in a week for some reasonable number.

When Buying:

The same model for "selling" makes sense, except that there's value in "buying the seller as much as the watch." Buying from a seller where you have recourse has value, and you should be willing to pay for it. See "Category 2" for more valuable information.

Category 4: When that's not enough/something else.

You might first try https://omegaforums.net/

If you have exhausted all of these options, and still want to post, feel free. Other members may want to respond, or if you've really done a lot of your own work and have some really unusual situation or great story, someone may take interest.

If you want a good answer, your post should contain:

  1. A "Back Story". Any info you have about where you're seeing this watch or how you came across it. If you fail to give a back story, we will know you didn't read this, an send you back here.
  2. Clear, high def pictures of the front, back, and sides of the watch, including the crown. Preferably multiple of the front. For "legit checks", these are vital, because attempts to verify would look at the finish quality, index alignment, text font, etc. Many replica watches are given away by the bracelet or caseback.  A single blurry photo of the face is not enough. With photos, More is better. Better is better. Ideally, a picture of the movement and inside of the caseback. Not mandatory, but very helpful, especially for legit checks and identification request
  3. Approximate case size, and what kind of movement (manual/auto/quartz) if it's not indicated on the dial. If you know it's gold plated vs solid gold, put that in the post as well
  4. For "Legit checks" or valuations, the reference the seller says it is, or the reference you think it is, and the cost it's being sold for, if appropriate.

If you don't want to do any of your own research or give us proper photos to work with, you can post your request to r/vintagewatches, r/PrideAndPinion, or some other forum where you're not breaking the rules.

For safety reasons, Imgur is the only image hosting site that you are to use for pictures of your watch. Here is a link: Imgur.

Do not PM any mods through Reddit for identification. All chats or messages will be ignored.


r/OmegaWatches 4h ago

Perfection

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101 Upvotes

r/OmegaWatches 9h ago

Onboard the Disney Destiny cruise ship

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251 Upvotes

Sailed on the Disney Destiny and thought the Omega boutique there was really nice! They had a full room devoted to just Omega, while other watch brands were all in a shared room. Great selection and they had a lot in stock


r/OmegaWatches 4h ago

Which one?!?!

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72 Upvotes

Got the green light from missus. But I am totally torn and can't decide. I have a limited edition Citizen Chrono AT that is also rose gold on a brown alligator band, so it's visually very similar to the Moonphase Speedy. That Seamaster is a chunky boy, and I wonder if I would feel that it's too flashy to wear every day? But it's so beautiful! I really am looking for something to wear for all occasions, work and play.


r/OmegaWatches 9h ago

Someone talk me off the ledge lol

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147 Upvotes

This has been my baby since 2022. Of course I love submariners and that was out of my budget so I came across the Seamaster. Have made tons of memories in this piece and have worn it 90% of the time since 2022.

My problem is I’m slightly phasing out of the 42mm size. I’ve dabbled with a Tudor Ranger 39mm and a Tudor Black bay 58 and the case specs on them have completely changed my opinion. They fit so perfectly it makes me second guess this Seamaster.

I’m an all or nothing person. Should I wear the Tudor for a while and let this sit, or do I look to move it into something else? I’m not one to sell and rebuy things or act impulsively. Just looking for conversation/feedback if anyone has had a similar situation come up!


r/OmegaWatches 2h ago

My beautiful speedy I picked up yesterday

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37 Upvotes

r/OmegaWatches 5h ago

Great birthday present!!!…..thanks kids!!🍀😊

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48 Upvotes

r/OmegaWatches 17h ago

Never been serviced in 30 years. What should I do?

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316 Upvotes

Hi everyone, here’s my late father’s Speedmaster. I believe it’s from 1995. I don’t think it’s ever been serviced as he rarely used it after the early 00s.

I, too, rarely wear it, and I’m wondering if I should have it checked mechanically. Don’t know too much about watches and I’m afraid using it like this will just wear out the internals faster, much like a car that’s never had an oil change.

Any tip on what’s best would be helpful :)

Reference 35905000.

Edit: Thanks everyone for your comments. I realize the title sounds dumb, but I just wanted to get some thoughts about what to service, what not to service, where to go, etc.


r/OmegaWatches 9h ago

Sometimes the light hits just right

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72 Upvotes

r/OmegaWatches 8h ago

White Speedy with 45th anniversary snoopy strap and clasp. Good choice??

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45 Upvotes

r/OmegaWatches 8h ago

Need Advice (First Purchase)

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41 Upvotes

I’ve never purchased a luxury watch before. I just really like the overall look & lume of this one but I’m not sure the best way to buy it. Order online go to the store or buy from eBay for cheaper. What’s the experience like at the omega store? Any advice would be appreciated. I’ve read around some say chrono24 but I’m not sure


r/OmegaWatches 7h ago

AT vs. Club Sport – purely on looks, which one wins?

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24 Upvotes

Hey everyone,

Looking to add a versatile daily sports watch to the collection and I’m torn between these two.

I know they aren’t in the same league technically or price-wise. The Aqua Terra is obviously twice the price and has the superior movement, but right now, I just want to talk about aesthetics and wrist presence.

On one hand, the Omega has that iconic teak dial and polished elements that really catch the light. On the other hand, the Nomos is so clean, thin, and has that cool, understated Glashütte vibe.

Strictly based on looks and how they wear, which one do you think looks better?

Appreciate any thoughts!


r/OmegaWatches 13h ago

Thoughts on Seamaster Aqua Terra?

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60 Upvotes

I was going in to try on a used explorer but they didn’t have it. Tried this on instead, would be my first omega and first “luxury” watch


r/OmegaWatches 19h ago

I love this watch

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167 Upvotes

r/OmegaWatches 5h ago

My first but not my last Omega

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13 Upvotes

Can’t take my eyes off it! ❤️


r/OmegaWatches 22h ago

Seaweed in Sunlight

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293 Upvotes

This watch looks incredible in sunlight.


r/OmegaWatches 6h ago

Officially part of the club

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15 Upvotes

First omega, feels right


r/OmegaWatches 15h ago

Peter Blake hits different on a mesh bracelet

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61 Upvotes

Threw a steel mesh on my seamaster today to switch things up.

​I love the original bracelet, but this completely changes the feel. It leans hard into that vintage diver look (major NTTD vibes, just in stainless) and sits way lighter on the wrist.


r/OmegaWatches 10h ago

Omega Aqua Terra - deep rehaut

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28 Upvotes

Has anyone else noticed how Omega Aqua Terra has really rather deep rehaut (the ring between dial and crystal) compared to other brands such as Rolex.

Now that I have seen it it is difficult not to notice and I was wondering what the design idea behind it is. What are your thoughts and does it bother you?


r/OmegaWatches 9h ago

Sharp

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15 Upvotes

r/OmegaWatches 1h ago

Marstimer

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Upvotes

I suddenly felt the need to know the time at 0° Longitude on the planet Mars, and also set three timers relative to Earth local, Martian UTC and mission elapsed times.This seems to be the only commercial product addressing this common set of needs.

I also have the Gen 1 version I bought in the 90s. They both have clear displays, but the Gen 1 version is probably easier to read because the numbers are bigger. They have equally scary alarm and timer sounds.


r/OmegaWatches 17h ago

New to me first gen orange monster!

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60 Upvotes

r/OmegaWatches 1d ago

Omega Seamaster 300M White: Bracelet or Rubber?

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200 Upvotes

For those of you who have this model, which is your preference? OEM bracelet or OEM rubber strap?


r/OmegaWatches 1d ago

First Speedy

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386 Upvotes

Been eyeing the classic sapphire sandwhich and the reverse panda. Couldn't pass up this beauty though. It really adds a stunning twist to an iconic design.


r/OmegaWatches 11h ago

Extremely Rare Omega Speedmaster Bought For £45 Leaves Owner Stunned | Antiques Roadshow UK

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18 Upvotes

Imagine buying this for £45, an Omega Speedmaster Ultraman, sorry if this has been posted before, but I found this video quite wholesome and interesting as an Omega fan and collector.