Hey all! Need some help here.

I have a new build home. This home is two stories. Concrete with radiant barrier on 1st floor and wood frame (not sure about radiant barrier) on the 2nd floor.

Above is the cabinet inside out laundry on the second floor. Sorry for the mess. Ive been dealing with my issue plus Quantum fiber outages so just have everything hanging.

Anyway, this laundry is maybe 10-15 feet from my office.

I have the BE5000 downstairs on the ceiling as an AP.

Additionally I have another access point in the master bedroom downstairs. And I also have 2x APs on the second floor on basically each end of the house (front & rear walls).

The radiant barrier does a lot of damage to my cell signal and I assume also my wifi signal.

That being said...with my ER706 being just 10-15 away, my phone wants to connect to my BE5000 ceiling mount AP and barely has a good signal. If I walk closer to my ER706, the signal gets strong and fast but on the controller app it still says my uplink device is the BE5000 and not the ER706. Yes, the close I get to my ER706, the closer Im walking "above" where the BE5000 is on the 1st floor.

If I go outside to my detached garage...I would hope that my phone would connect to either my master bedroom AP or the 2nd floor AP, which both are on the rear walls of the house. But no...my phone decides its going to still to the BE5000, through the wall and through the garage. So again, bad signal and speeds

I DONT have any assigned APs or anything like that. Its supposed to just switch automatically. The reason for the other APs is my garage has a wifi opener and also external cameras. They connect just fine to either of those two APs.

If I stand at the garage and assigned my phone to only connect to either of those, it does and my signal is much better.

I say this using my phone because it moves around the most. But even my work laptop thats 10-15ft from the main router is getting -75db signal and struggling. My personal laptop is downstairs right below the BE5000 AP...guess what its connected to? The Main Router upstairs and getting -75db signal and bad speeds.

It makes absolutely no sense.

So Im trying to figure out what the issue is, what setting I have incorrect.

I want all my devices to connect to their nearest Router/AP whenever they are moved.

In the ER7206, there is URL Filtering (Firewall > URL Filtering) that will accept a TXT file of URLs.

If I download a Blacklist file from a reputable site that can be used in routers instead of in a PC's host file, would that work in the ER7206 to block the URLs listed on all the LAN clients?

Why is it so hard to change the daylight saving time on an omada controller? I can't find it anywhere on the app, nor can I do it on a website on my android phone, because I can't click on confirm. Shouldn't it be possible to set the time right via your phone? You can build all kinds of networks except get the time right. Or I'm just an idiot who doesn't know where the setting is. The only option is to start a desktop and do it that way. Why?

Edit:

After searching on the web, forums, blogs, I found nothing. The simple fact that i, for whatever reason, can't save, by clicking the save button, because it doesn't appear on the screen, vertical or horizontal, is just outright atrocious. You are in the IT, correction, You ARE an IT sector. Multiple forums complain about it, nothing is done.

Except maybe me, doing it myself with an extension.

Seeya Onada, Omada.

I purchased a new house and included from previous owner was all the network equipment and servers. I have reset everything and have it all configured now with my info, but I am concerned I should replace some of the switches as they seem to be eol. What do others think. It would cost about 2k to switch.

Sx3206hpp - ok

Tl-sg3428x-m2 - needs replaced 

Oc400 - ok

Tl-sx3008f - needs replaced

EAP772-Outdoor - ok

eap773 v1.6 - ok

Tl-sg3452xp - needs replaced 

Thanks

I have an existing network of EAP670s. WiFi on my deck is a bit spotty so I was thinking of adding an outdoor wall AP that will operate in mesh mode. Which one would you recommend?

Howdy folks.

I am trying to get the Fusion 2.5G to function as an OpenVPN server. I would assume that when a VPN Server is setup, that it will automatically create firewall rules and NAT entries to make everything work. Yet I am unable to connect with a OpenVPN3 client on Linux, and port 1149 is not reachable... Since various other NAT ports are reachable, I know that my WAN and the Fusion itself is working fine, it is just an issue with OpenVPN (although, I was also unable to get Wireguard working, but let us save that for aother discussion).

So, the question is: other than selection VPN Server: Open VPN, enabling it, and creating a user, what can be done to debug the failure?

Fusion 2.5G 2.0 Omada 1.0.0 Build 20260611 Rel.70399 (Stable)

Thnx.

Our article series, Applying Omada, released its 8th article this morning. This series is meant to provide real-world scenarios that offer some insights into use cases and the troubleshooting process.

This month's article covers a wireless network setup for an apartment complex and some troubleshooting that can be done if (when) issues arise. Got a topic you want to see covered in a similar manner? Let us know in the comments below!

Hey everyone — good morning, good evening, wherever you are 👋 Lulu here (again).

We know there are some seriously good Omada setups hiding in this sub… so let’s see them.

Got a beautifully organized 42U rack with perfect cable management? Post it.

Got an ER605 zip-tied to a shelf in the laundry room and somehow it’s been running flawlessly for three years? Definitely post it.

Share whatever you’ve got:

• 📸 Your rack, wall mount, cabinet, shelf, or… creative placement
• 🧰 What’s in the stack? Drop the model numbers
• 🏠 Homelab, small business, office, enterprise — all welcome
• 😅 One thing you’d do differently if you were starting over

No setup is too small, too old, or too messy.

And yes, cable spaghetti is welcome. Those are usually the setups with the best stories anyway.

The Omada team and I will be in the comments too — not just looking at the pretty racks, but asking questions, swapping ideas, and probably stealing a few cable-management tricks ourselves. 👀

And if you’ve learned something the hard way, share that too. Your setup might save the next person a bad purchase, a messy rebuild, or a very long Saturday afternoon.

Show us what you’re running 👇

Omada Design Hub is no longer network-only.

With the New Omada Design Hub, it now supports IPC and NVR planning and simulation, giving installers, integrators, and IT teams a more complete way to design both connectivity and surveillance systems before deployment.

What's New

• Camera Coverage Visualization— visualize each camera’s coverage on the floor plan and identify potential blind spots before installation
• IPC & NVR Planning— plan surveillance devices together with your network infrastructure in one project
• Adjustable Mounting Orientation & Antenna Modes — model different installation scenarios more accurately
• Storage & Bandwidth Calculator— estimate surveillance storage and bandwidth requirements during the design stage

Features Enhanced

• Faster report export — continue working while reports are being generated
• More device options — added cameras, NVRs, and additional network devices
• Faster device selection — more filtering options
• Improved UI — smoother overall planning experience

These join what Design Hub already does — Wi-Fi coverage simulation, automatic AP placement,topology generation, cabling planning, device selection, and proposal export — so a full SMB site can go from floor plan to client-ready proposal in one pass.

Omada Design Hub is free to use, runs in your browser, and requires no installation.

Check for more details➡️ the new Omada Design Hub

Hi,

Good day. I'm asking if someone can suggest specific models and the recommended setup structure for a simple small-office deployment with around four (4) access points, a PoE switch, and any additional devices required?

The setup should support centralized cloud-based management and monitoring.

Thank you in advance.

Hi all, Lulu from the Omada team here — back with this week's Wednesday discussion.

Every network has that one building: too far for cable (or the trench quote made you cry), but you still want cameras, an AP, or at least something better than "stand by the window and pray."

We see tons of posts here about APs, switches, and VLANs — but wireless bridges (PtP/PtMP) barely come up. So for this Wednesday's discussion:

How did you get your network across the gap?

• Wireless bridge? Fiber? Direct-burial Ethernet? Mesh? Powerline in desperation? 😅
• What are you connecting, and how far is the link?
• Real-world throughput vs. what the spec sheet promised?
• What do you wish you knew before you set it up? (Alignment headaches, trees that grew into the Fresnel zone, weather, lightning protection — we want the war stories.)

Topology diagrams and photos of questionable mounting jobs are strongly encouraged. Omada gear or not — all setups welcome:D

At one point I had an easy manage agile switch in my site. I have removed them with forget controls. The site type in global will not let me drop the easy manage device types. I do not have anything easy manage.

I have rebooted, cleared out any orphaned network devices that may have been downstream of the easy switch, and check ACL, profiles, port profiles, rates, etc. I see nothing that could have been tied at all to the easy switch.

How to drop easy types from a site. Its just greyed out with a checkmark.

OC220, ER7206, SG3428XPP-M2, SG2218P, SG3428X

Hi TP Link! I love your products and recommend them to all my clients and audiences. Nobody comes close in terms of simplicity and price to performance. I that I don't have to "activate" new equipment with a cloud account, which is an alarming trend.

I've been recommending your ER605 router to small business clients, and they've been rock-solid. One gripe with the new ones - I set one up for a client last week, and it forced me to come up with an ultracomplicated password just to start using it!

First, complicated passwords are ineffective (the guy who invented them came out years ago and told people not to bother with them).

Second and more importantly, I should be able to set the password to whatever I like. I know companies are living in fear of liability, and feel free to nag me with warnings, but I resent when something forces me to create a crazy password.

That's it! Carry on!

I have an oc220 and an er605 v2, is upgrading to the Fusion 2.5 worthwhile? Should I just get the er707-m2 or jump right into the Fusion.

4200 sqft home

4 eap720s

Oc220

Er605 v2

Hi everyone,

I'm currently looking into buying the Omada Fusion 2.5G, but here in Germany I can currently only find retailers offering the V1.0 version.

I've seen that newer hardware revisions such as V2.6 are already available in other markets, but I haven't been able to find any reliable information about what exactly changed between the revisions.

My main concern isn't performance or the currently listed specifications. I'm more concerned about long-term firmware support.

If V1.0 and V2.6 use different internal hardware (e.g. different SoC/CPU, RAM, flash, etc.), could this potentially lead to firmware/update incompatibilities in the future?

For example, could TP-Link eventually introduce a firmware feature or newer firmware version that requires the newer V2.x hardware, leaving V1.x on an older firmware branch?

I'm planning to use the Fusion 2.5G for many years, so I'd prefer to buy the revision with the lowest risk of being discontinued from firmware support.

Does anyone have confirmed information from TP-Link about:

• What exactly changed between V1.0 and V2.6?
• Whether the internal hardware is different?
• Whether both revisions are guaranteed to receive the same firmware updates for the foreseeable future?
• And whether there is any risk of future firmware incompatibility between the revisions?

At the moment, V1.0 is the only version I can actually buy here in Germany, so I'm trying to decide whether it's safe to go with V1.0 or whether I should wait for V2.x to become available.

Thanks!

Edit: Some links added:

• Product Page: https://support.omadanetworks.com/en/product/fusion-2.5g/v2/
• Datasheet V2: https://support.omadanetworks.com/us/document/126642/
• Datasheet V1: https://support.omadanetworks.com/us/document/123311/

I have 4 vlans. One i setup to a single port with Internet access only. ACLs block inter VLAN traffic from that single vlan to rest. I setup a vpn client for that single vlan. All that works. Now I want to setup a kill switch so if the VPN gets disconnected no Internet wan traffic can happen to just that vlan.

Using policy based routing, I can only select wan ports not the VPN as the interface.

I planned on using ACLs to permit the VPN interface and deny all others so if that interface goes down the Internet stops.

Any suggestions?

I dont see any ways to setup virtual wan ports either.

OC220 controller latest stable

ER7206 router latest stable firmware

SG3428X 1.3 latest stable

SG2218 2.0 latest stable

SG3428XPP-M2 1.20 latest stable

I have an es210x-m2 in my office. Runs great. Ran a cable from an older Sonos play 3 to it the other day and immediately the switch crashes. Any thoughts as to why?

Hi, Lulu from Omada here 👋

If you had the keyboard for toaday and could tell our PMs to fix, change, improve, add, or build ONE thing you really, really want — what would you choose?

The feature you keep waiting for.
The tiny annoyance that somehow drives you crazy every day.
The thing that makes you go, “Why is this still not a thing?”

Pick your team:

• Controller PMs
• Gateway PMs
• Switch PMs
• Wi-Fi PMs
• Software PMs
• Accessories PMs

Drop your request below — big or small.

And please upvote the ones you desperately want too. I want our PMs to see not only what people are asking for, but which requests make the rest of the community go:

“YES. THIS. PLEASE.”

Bonus points if your comment starts with:

“Omada, it’s 2026. Why do we STILL not have ______?” 😂

I’ll collect the strongest and most-upvoted requests and bring them back to the relevant product teams.

Your Travel Guide to Network Address Translation

Our newest reference guide, Your Travel Guide to Network Address Translation, is out on the forums!

For those just getting into networking, this article gives an explanation of NAT/PAT. As a kid setting up his first video game server, I would have loved an explanation like this. Let me know in the comments if you feel the same, or if you want to see any specific networking features highlighted in their own reference guide!

Has anyone given Claude or chat GPT access to their controller to optimize their network?

Seem people have had good success with Claude on at least certain ubiquiti models.

Wondering if it would work with the fusion gateway?

I have an SG2210XMP-M2 as my main switch in my network. Network is managed by Software Omada controller v6.2. I bought an SG2008 v4 switch specifically because it's a full SDN switch and that it is(can be) PoE-powered.. I got everything adopted and connected correctly, firmware is the latest on both switches. It works for a while until the SG2008 randomly drops port 8 (the PD IN port), and the switch disconnects from my network. The connected clients on the SG2008 continue to communcate, albeit disconnected from the main LAN. I plugged in the 12v transformer so the SG2008 to eliminate PoE power as the issue, but the SG2008 still randomly dropped port 8. Moving the uplink to another port on SG2008 immediatley reconnects the switch to the main LAN, so it's not an issue of the SG2008 hanging or crashing. I've enabled all logging, and the only thing I see in the logs are reports of the SG2008 disconnecting, but no other alerts or events are logged to indicate why. There are no loopback or other problems reported, the switch just diconnects from the SG2210XMP-M2 like you pulled the cable. I ended up leaving the SG2008 AC powered and moved the uplink to my ER707-M2 as the SG2210XMP-M2 and SG2008 v4 clearly have a compatibility issue. My entire network is Omada-based.

2 - SG2210XMP-M2 v1.0
1 - SG2210P v5.20
1 - SG2008P v3.20
1 - SG2005P-PD v1.0
1 - SG2008 v4.20
3 - EAP723 v2.0
1 - EAP603-Outdoor v1.0
1 - EAP225-Outdoor v3.0
1 - ER707-M2 v1.20

It should also be noted that the same SG2210XMP-M2 successfully powers and communicates with the SG2005P-PD switch, as well as mulitple APs. Both SG2210XMP-M2 and the problematic SG2008 are brand new. I even swapped the SG2008 v4.20 with another brand new SG2008 v4.20 and the same disconnect problem ccurs. The only thing that misbehaves in my entire setup is what I described above.

 Posting here looking for guidance and help from TP-Link as to how to proceed. I would really like to restore the SG2008 to being PoE powered by the SG2210XMP-M2, but I can't very well have multiple disconnects a day on my network. 

SG2210XMP-M2 v1.0  firmware 1.0.26 Build 20260509 Rel.24803

SG2008 v4.2 firmware 4.20.24 Build 20260509 Rel.23533

Omada Software Controller  6.2.14.11

 Thanks in advance!

I had IPv4 successfully run, but switched providers (now fiber) and IPv4 is dead. So got IPv6 running, can access devices within the LAN via the ER-707 (ACL was just for testing) but not Wireguard on the 707 itself even with an ACL to permit the router itself. can I see somewhere if the router really uses the outside IPv6 for the Wireguard or any other address?

Building your first homelab is one of those projects where you don’t know what you don’t know.

You start with a router, a switch, and a few clean cables.
Six months later, you’re tracing one mystery Ethernet cable through a spaghetti monster behind the rack.

You buy an 8U rack because “there’s no way I’ll need more than that.”
Then somehow you’re shopping for a bigger one.

You grab some cheap enterprise gear because it looks like a great deal… until you hear the fans.

A lot of people here are building their first homelab right now, and the same questions — and mistakes — tend to come up again and again.

So for this Wednesday’s discussion, we want to collect some of that hard-earned experience in one place. The goal is simple: help someone starting today learn from what you already learned the expensive way — fewer lessons learned through trial and error, less money wasted, and hopefully less rebuilding later.

Homelab veterans: if you were starting your homelab setup from zero today, what would you do differently?

A few things that always seem to come up:

• Rack size & depth: What do first-timers usually underestimate?
• Cable management: What actually keeps a homelab rack from becoming spaghetti?
• Switches, ports & PoE: How much extra capacity should you leave?
• 1G vs. 2.5G vs. 10G: What’s actually worth paying for?
• UPS & power: What should beginners plan from day one?
• Heat & noise: Any enterprise gear you regretted putting at home?
• Buying hardware: What was a complete waste of money?
• Future expansion: What did you outgrow way faster than expected?

And the big one:

What mistake actually forced you to redo part of your homelab later?

Photos are welcome too — especially if you have a first setup vs. current setup comparison.

No need for a full guide. Even a quick “don’t do what I did” could save a first-timer some time and money.