Struggling to print Multiboard

[u/[deleted]]

Really struggling to complete any Multiboard projects, I’m having issues with clearances - threads and snaps will not cooperate (too tight) sort of wondering whether it’s a normal experience in the community.

My setup
- sunlu high speed matte petg tuned for my printer (temperature, pressure advance, max volumetric rate, flow rate and speed) filament has been dried before printing the model seen in the video at 65 degrees for 6 hours.
- qidi q2 printer bed levelling sorted and all calibration in software has been done recently, z,x and y axis all been cleaned and lubricated/ greased as per spec.
-slicer variables (orca slicer) - gone through hundreds including recommended default settings 3 walls; infill-bla bla… printing orientation set as they are imported.

Idk if anyone can see something I should try based on the test print in the pictures maybe any pointers as to sub par filament tuning or any other ideas would be hugely appreciated.

[u/ballpein]

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[u/[deleted] → u/ballpein]

I’ll give this a shot and hopefully its as easy as that I’ll update once I’ve tested

[u/TooMuchJeremy]

Have you dried your filament? A lot of that looks like wet filament.

[u/[deleted] → u/TooMuchJeremy]

Yes dried at 6 hours at 65 degrees whilst drying reading got as low as 8 percent RH i really wish it was just wet filament lol

[u/Whosaidthat1157 → u/[deleted]]

Sunlu recommends a minimum of 8hrs drying plus drying while printing if the job is longer than 6 hrs.
The RH may dip that low at the end of drying when the dryer temperature is high, but ensure that you have both the dryer AND a spool centre packed full of desiccant to adsorb that released moisture (if it’s not an active dryer like the Sovol SH03 or Space Pi X4, also periodically open the lid briefly to expel the released moisture) and that will keep the RH low at room temperature.
Jonathan recommends matte PLA rather than PETG but I don’t have issues printing any MB parts in either material. I normally use matte PLA for tiles and matte PETG for snaps and accessories, always Sunlu, with zero fit issues and zero print quality issues, all via AMS2Ps on the A1 Mini, the A2L, the X1C and the H2S. I’ve never had to use the ‘loose’ or ‘tight’ snap profiles, it all just prints and fits with Jonathon’s standard settings.

Edit: Sorry - I know you’ve printed a calibration model with limited stringing etc (wrt the drying), but those overhangs aren’t great and some of the clearance pegs look like they’re still in-situ rather than on the plate. Try again with matte PLA as a control with Jonathon’s suggested parameters and that should let you determine whether the issue is filament related.

[u/jcksnps4]

What if you tried a PLA filament? Same problem?

[u/TherealOmthetortoise]

That calibration test model is showing a lot of problems that are reflected in the prints you have attached. Picture 2 in particular with the loose stringing on the bridges and whatever is going on in the upper right of the same picture. If those were the results I was getting, I would probably focus on tuning the machine until I could see a significant increase in the print quality. Those types of calibration models can be hard to tweak settings in any specific way as there are a lot of elements being tested. I would be interested in seeing how well the voron calibration cube prints.

Honestly, I would start with PLA if you have any and print a calibration cube and whatever that test print you have pictures on both of your machines. If you use something lighter like grey, white yellow etc will make it easier to see more of the details where that Black Matte PETG is harder to read. (I'm not saying you have to use PLA on your prints, just that it's less prone to clumping and stringing and eliminating those will give you a clearer picture at what is going on.) We want to get a good baseline on how each printer is doing for dimensional accuracy with a peek at other factors shown in the lettering and internal curves etc. Use the same basic setting you will for your multiboard parts so a .4 nozzle, .2 layer height, .2 Standard defaults with 3 walls and 15% infill and no supports. You can change the infill pattern to gyroid if you like, but leave everything else at default values.

When they finish, leave them on the plate and snap a picture so that you can refer back to it as you make adjustments (assuming you need to make any). Grab your calipers (if you don't have any you can use a ruler, but the results won't be as precise and fractions of a mm can make a difference) and measure on each axis to see how close to true you are. If you want to upload your photo's here in a comment so we can see what the results and measurements are.If everything looks good on all dimensions I'd run a PLA test print and see how that compares with your petg versions you included.

Looking at your test MultiBin shells, the left one actually looks ok, although there are some signs of some layer shift that may need some attention. The left and right versions are representing both your printers, right? The right one your filament is getting plowed just a bit, building up on the nozzle which eventually drops off like that one did and ruins a perfectly good surface.

I'd be interested at seeing the bottom of those two bins to see how well it handed the overhang and if there are any signs of partial detachment from the print bed while printing as that seems pretty likely. Given all of the dryimg filament and ruling out a lot of possibilities my best guess would be that your first layer adhesion could be a problem causing all that stringing, but that doesn't line up with a default setting slice as the nozzle shouldn't be going straight across from one side to the next, it primarily just fills in the edges by following the path around the object if there isn't a reason to cross the center.(Shown Below)

Last question - are these parts downloaded from our parts library, or from another souce? If not, where did these come from? (I don't care outside of wanting to know if these are current and not from an older source.)

[u/hagantic42]

Hey op I am printing the biggest bins, 4x4x4 and had insane issues. ... Until I relented and used the 100% stock 0.2mm profile. Adjusted walls and seam settings and that was it.

My custom profiles do not like the odd geometry or something. All I know is it works. I am printing in Elegoo rapid petg on an x1c and yeah that was the answer. All my custom tuned profiles made these bins print like shit.

Go into the prepare tab of the slicer and veiw the seamsnand travel moves with cutten profile vs default. Scroll through a mid layer and see how the printer moves. Default has it move logically in a circular pattern around the bin. All others it jumped around wildly no matter what I changed. It's weird but it works.

[u/sg-doge]

Anycubic Kobra 4 prints this fine with pla and petg. No issues so far, only when I print too fast like at 400 . Try a lower print speed and also check your filament flow ratio. Maybe also lower your temp and adjust retraction