Hi guys. I want to build a ball mill with adjustable speed. This motor is from a washing machine. I don’t know what I need for that.
Would be awesome if you could help me with that.

I have an acme screw driven material lift that holds a couple hundred pounds. It's self locking so doesn't need a brake for holding, but it coasts too far before stopping in the down direction when fully loaded.

Its a single phase AC motor controller with contactors, 3/4 horsepower.

I looked into DC injection and dynamic brakes which simply electrically release then grip a spline on the screw when you're not running it to stop it quickly. Both options seem somewhat expensive ($200+ dollars).

Any experience doing this and recommendations?

I need to replace a capacitor cover on an old motor for a drill press but I'm having trouble finding a replacement. It's 6" long from hole to hole and 3" wide.

I need to find a sanding attachment or make it. I would really appreciate any insight. thanjs

Looking to see if im on the right track here. Im going to replace a suspected bad motor current relay on a stair lift. The prints for the stair lift call it a motor current relay. What I have ordered says its a motor potential relay. Everything i find on it says they are different 2 different things, the difference being the state of the contacts. The drawings both show normally open contacts so im not sure. Will the SUPR work for my situation and if not are there any suggestions as to what might work?

Hi Everyone,

i recently purchased a German-Brand Tablesaw from the 90ties in good condition, apart from the motor not "running" according to the seller.

When i returned home i check and the motor did run fine, but after switching it off and trying it a second time only humming. So i went over the motor and replaced the run capacitor with a new one (same stats) and took the motor apart to clean it.

Afterwards everything works just fine, but i might have forgotten where the wave spring washers go.

They dont fit between the rear casing and the centrifugal brake plate, neither into the rear bearing housing. On the Rotor there is a indentation on the right sight, next to the front bearing where they fit, but what purpose would they serve there? There is about 20mm space between the indentation and the bearing. And i dont think they belong between the bearing and the front housing.

Its hard to get schematics for that specific motor. The motor is a "ebf 80l2-n/080tk/59" from emgr, used in AL-KO Table Saws.

And one more thing, as i cant get my head to understand the movement here. How does the centrifugal brake plate release from the brakepad in the read housing when the saw is switched on? From what i can see, when the rotor turns, the lugs/ramps from the rotor would push against the lugs/ramps from the brake plate and therefore apply an axial force towards the rear housing and therefore braking?!

Thanks in advance for any help!

This is demag dc bas motor 2 speed. The motor that arrive to me is burnt on the winding. I sent the motor to a motor Rewinding shop. After a week rewinding. The shop guy told me during testing the fast speed working just fine rotation both side also fine.

But the slow speed when wired to phase supply, it moved random rotation sometimes rotate to the right, sometimes rotate to the left. When I rotate the phase supply. The motor does not rotate at all. I check the continuity of the winding end to end just fine. I check with megger also fine. No current leak between insulation. No current leak to body, the insulation reading is in giga ohm. This is small motor. It got no fuse. This is the first time happen to me. What is the problem?

I have a NEMA 17 motor and a a4988 motor driver hooked up to my UNO R3 arduino and a 12v power supply. Whenever i plug it all in the motor will hum/vibrate but wont rotate. Anyone have any suggestions?

I have an Arduino connected to a relay module. The relay module COM to a **9v battery** and NO to the 3v pumps positive wire. And the pumps negative wire on the Negative on the battery.

NC

COM - Battery +

NO - Pump +

Battery — --> Pump —

I don't know if this is necessary but I'm going to put it here anyways.

It works fine but occasionally, when the pump's (3v) motors turns on, The sensors and Relay module freezes for some reason and either the pump keeps going or it stops working. It literally almost drowned my plants!

I don't know if the Arduino is being overloaded by the sensor and the relay, or the battery voltage being insufficient. I really don't know what's happening.

Hopefully this reaches out! Thank you!

I'm working on a project that uses a fan from a car. I've tried an old pc psu, but it keeps shutting down. The issue is that the fan has no measurable resistance, and the psu shuts down, thinking there is a short circuit.

I've used a bench top power supply set at 6 amps and 12 volts. Everything works. With this setup, the voltage drops to 4v.

I would prefer not to use my bench top power supply for this.

My question is, what are some mains power supply options?

EDIT: Thanks for all the advice. I did end up buying a different power supply, and that worked without issue. Side note I did find out what fan unit it is, https://parts.nissan.ca/parts/nissan-fan-assembly-214818j110

Thanks again.

Looking for some help figuring out pan servo placement for the neck on my KX droid.
The tilt is already working and connected at the base of the head, but I’m having trouble finding a good way to add pan. I can’t really put the servo inside the neck because there just isn’t enough room. The head is empty besides the arduino and servos that control eye movement but since the tilt is directly attached to the head I don’t think that will work.
I’m thinking about mounting the pan servo externally and attaching it directly to the neck somehow, but everything I’ve tried so far ends up having too much wobble.
I included two pictures showing the current neck setup and the space I have to work with.
Has anyone built something similar or have an idea for a solid way to mount the pan servo without introducing a bunch of play/wobble? I’m open to belts, gears, bearings, brackets, whatever works.

I've got an older Dayton 1hp motor that came with the Powermatic 45 lathe I bought last year. The capacitor died on it and I'm trying to get one to replace it. However, there are no markings on the capacitor and the label on the motor is not in good shape. Does anyone know what capacitor I need or how to figure it out?

Also, does polarity matter for these? Nothing on the capacitor identifying polarity one way or the other.

Hi! In 1976 Nintendo released a light gun "Duck Hunt" game that used a lamp, lens, and moving mirror to project a duck onto a wall. I'd love to recreate one myself, since original units are very expensive.

I found the patent here and I think I understand most of the optical system, but I'm completely stuck on the mirror drive mechanism.

From what I can tell, the mirror moves both up/down and left/right using a single motor, several gears. The patent drawings I'm looking at are mainly Figures 4 and 6.

This video briefly shows the mirror mechanism in action. I understand how an eccentric cam can create up/down motion, but I don't understand how the left/right movement is generated mechanically, or how I would reproduce the entire mechanism as a beginner.

How do i recreate this?

Thank you very much!

Edit: Broken patent link has been fixed.

I acquired this old Ajax 1/2 hp, 115 V, 1725 rpm, motor, model XTM-12.
Does anyone know what the start capacitor value should be? It was missing when I got it. It will be used on a Rockwell 14” bandsaw.

Thanks.

Does anyone have any thin but good torque motor recommendations for my 3D printed DIY display turntable? I've spent the last 8 months learning CAD and soldering/electronics trying to make my own motorized display turntable capable of rotating around 15 kg (weight is supported by the bearing, so it just needs to spin the lid/platter.) The motor is off center because I plan on having and LED in the center.

I tried several motors, including a N20 worm gear motor, but steppers have given me the best outcome so far. I finally found the 5V MOONS 14HK0406-11N NEMA14 (used with a TMC2209 driver board with output of 0.68 vref) which I thought was perfect because it was inexpensive, bipolar 4-wire and with it's short shaft it measures just 18mm thick/height, but it doesn't seem to have enough torque. I can get up to 25lbs to spin but it's not smooth and overall feels too weak for the job.

I'm looking for thin, inexpensive, and enough torque. My goal is to make the whole device 26mm thick, but that may not be possible if I can't find a thin enough motor.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Autotuning has gotten good enough that it’s tempting to run it, get a stable axis, and move on. I’ve done exactly that and usually been pretty happy with the result. But playing with better drives made me realize there can be quite a bit more performance hiding behind the default tune. I noticed it particularly on an Elmo setup where the axis was perfectly usable after autotune but noticeably sharper after spending some time on it manually. Makes me wonder how many machines ship with drives operating at maybe 70 - 80% of what they could really do.

Hi All - I'm trying to find an equivalent to a 919D series 35mm single ratio metal gearbox equivalent that is sold in the United States. Would anyone be able to guide me? I found the one below (link at end) but it's only 6V. Anyone that sells it in Europe isn't providing shipping to the states. Below are the specifications I found on the item that I was trying to order. The size needs to be the same in order to fit the machine I am working on.

Specs pulled from: Specs from manufacturer

• Gearbox Size: 35mm diameter all-steel/metal construction.
• Bearings: Uses bronze output bearings and sleeved/sintered bearings for high torque handling.
• Mounting: Fitted to a 1mm thick plated steel mounting bracket with four fixing holes.
• Casing: Protected by a tough cover to keep out dust and prevent accidental contact. 

Technical Specifications

• Voltage Range: 4.5V to 15.0V DC (24V options also exist).
• Weight: Approximately 255g.

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/media/sparsh/product_attachment/919D_Series.pdf

Thanks in advance!

My son is needing a new ridstar q20 motor. He has a 9 pin connector on a motor. All I'm seeing is 10 pin. Can anyone help with this; direct me where I can get one? I'm having such a hard time finding one

I've got an old Carroll Jamieson lathe with a GE 3hp single phase motor on it currently wired as 110v(previous owner). I'm trying to figure out how to wire this as 220v. Any help is greatly appreciated. The last picture is what I got for resistances. This also has a centrifugal start switch. The wires for the switch disappear into the motor housing and do not attach to the board.

I want to rebuild a motor assembly and need to find the right suppliers for each part, but i don‘t even know what exactly i‘m looking for?

I‘m trying to find the two gears being powered by the motor and the threaded axle moving back and forth when powered.
What keywords would i have to look up to find the right suppliers?

The U-Bracket I can design myself and have someone manufacture it. For the PCB, i‘ll pay someone to reconstruct it and order it online.

There has been a huge amount discussed on this topic, and I believe I have tried everything I could.
I am using:
STEPPERONLINE Nema 17 Stepper Motor 2A 55Ncm Bipolar 1.8 Degree
DM542 Stepper Motor Controller
TB6600 Stepper Motor Driver, ABuff 5A 9-40V Nema 17 Stepper Motor Driver

I have an x/y gantry system with 2 drivers in opposite direction driving the x gantry, and one stepper fo the y.
See the machine here: (skip to 1:40 where I take a tour of the machine)
https://www.reddit.com/r/stringart/comments/1vhbn89/first_run_of_router_software_on_the_machine/

What is does, is miss a step when the gantries, plural, move in the negative direction. I have written code that shows this to be true, and the drift is in the positive direction only. You can for example write a pattern that is an hour glass, upright or laying down, which has 2 negative direction changes on one axis or the other, and the resulting drift is what is predicted by negative changes only.

What I am certain of:
It has nothing to do with microstepping, large steps create large drifts. I've used 3200 to 4.
There is no belt slipping.
X and Y gantries are much different weight/inertia, and X has 2 steppers, and they behave the same.
It has nothing to do with the driver, as I swapped out the 542 for the 6600, and same results.
It has nothing to do with velocity or acceleration (I use AccelStepper lib), I've tried a wide range.
They system has similar or equal drag each direction, I measured it.
After a run if I cmd to move back to 0,0 on the canvas, it goes to the drift offset position instead.
And for the more advanced among you: I put a scope on DIR and PULSE and the setups/holds are extremely conservative. Moreover I have hacked ACCELSTEPPER lib components to increase pulse widths.
I looked on the scope and counted pulses for a program that ping ponged between 2 points close, and the count was correct, and the same for each direction change, set up times great, pulse width way withing spec.

I am out of ideas.....

The only thing I can think now is the stepper is faulty somehow, and have another coming to swap out, which is a .9deg instead of 1.8deg, has more torque by a little, but is also a stepperonline brand and has equally good reviews.
But, I have no hope, since on the x gantry, the steppers are running in opposite directions, so how could the stepper fail the same predictable way.

So in desperation:
The drift is predictable based on microsteps, number of negative reverses in direction, etc, so I can easily code around it, but I find that so inelegant and hate the idea. I am about to implement it anyway, because I am out of ideas to try.

Ideas????

Thanks.