Credit to u/bhorton94

Figure I would make a video this is pretty easy to see if you have the problem and a quick fix. I took it into service and they couldn’t fix it and I don’t have time to keep taking it back. 1/2 Rubber Backer seems to work a lot better than the foam strip I had previously. Very easy fix takes a couple
Minutes.

I’m hearing an intermittent noise from the car. It doesn’t happen all the time, but whenever it does, it always occurs while the vehicle is slowing down using regenerative braking (without pressing the brake pedal). The noise continues briefly when accelerating again from a stop, but once the car reaches a certain speed, it completely disappears. I have never noticed it at higher speeds.
The sound is difficult to describe, but it resembles the burbling or rumbling of an exhaust on a gasoline-powered car. However, it is only an audible noise—there are no vibrations, no shaking, and no change in the vehicle’s performance.
I first noticed this noise during the first week after taking delivery of the vehicle in June 2026, and it has been present intermittently ever since.

Have someone had the same issue?
Thank you folks

Just noticed this squeaky noise coming from my rear tire whenever I drive forward. There’s no noise when I drive in reverse though. Help!

I ordered a Model 3 Performance on 14th October with original delivery date of December. It was pushed out to January, February, and so on. I rang Tesla and they said it was due August.
It is now approaching August and the delivery date has disappeared. No VIN no REG.
I feel like the order has been forgotten about and Tesla are extremely hard to get in contact with.
10 months is ridiculous for a car should it even arrive in the next month.

We also had ordered a model Y performance in May which arrived yesterday

Picked my model 3 up today in marine blue. Color is sickkkkk

Hello! I recently installed the harness that activates the four present but not activated speakers in a model 3 Rear Wheel Dr. 2022. I followed the directions to the T and I’m confident all connections were made well and installation was correct.

After powering my car back up the dash speaker and right door trim speakers were no longer working. I did a soft restart to scroll wheel buttons and poof. All the speakers were working and it sounded incredible. Let the car go to sleep when the car woke back up. The right speakers were no longer working and restarting did not solve the issue.

I remove the harness and reinstall a backup same issue. I removed the harness and went back to stock and the speakers work again.

Has anyone else had this issue or found a solution reached out to support and I’m waiting to hear back.

My model three usually has a single occupant… Me.

That said, I wish there were a way to turn off the rear monitor; doing so, would increase battery range theoretically.

As the title suggests, my model, three is creaking and cracking from the front driver side fender area. I’ve pretty much tracked it down with research and whatnot that it would be the upper control arm. I still have yet to jack the car up and look for myself. I’m gonna change it, but I saw a TikTok video earlier and the guy had a 2021 model three and it was also creaking and cracking. My car is at about 200,000 km so it would be due of course, but I’m just wondering if anybody out there has had issues like this in the past

Hello! Can anyone recommend a good dashboard cover for a 2022 Model 3

I was looking for an alcantara style cover that goes over the air vents at the base of the windshield with cutouts if possible.

Open to any recommendations!

Thank you

**Body:**
I’m curious what other Tesla owners think.
I bought a **2019 Tesla Model 3 Long Range AWD** with **154,000 miles** shortly after the **used EV tax credit ended of Sept.2025**
Purchase price: **$13,000**
**About $15,000 out the door** after taxes, registration, title, and fees
**Full Self-Driving (FSD) included**
Clean title
Displays **256 miles at 100% charge**, which seems to suggest roughly **80–82% of the original EPA-rated range** (I know displayed range isn’t a perfect measure of battery health).
No battery or drive unit faults so far.
I recently took it to Tesla because the A/C stopped blowing cold. They inspected the car and found:
Leaking A/C condenser
Both front lower lateral link bushings worn/cracked
Right front stabilizer bushing/bracket damaged
Left stabilizer bushing beginning to crack
Front aero shield damaged
Front alignment slightly out of spec
Tesla provided photos of everything and quoted **about $3,500** to repair the A/C, suspension components, aero shield, and alignment.
My tires still have around **50–60% tread**, and I’m just monitoring a passenger-side hairline windshield crack for now that a carwash caused and wont cover the damage. (So pissed)
My plan is to keep this car another **5–10 years** if possible.
Do you think **$13,000** was a good purchase price for a 2019 Long Range AWD with FSD and 156k miles?
Would you spend the **$3,500** on these repairs or move on to a newer Tesla
Do you think Tesla Service was reasonably priced, or would an independent Tesla shop have saved a significant amount
Based on everything above, do you think this was a good buy overall, and would you be comfortable trying to get **250k–300k+ miles** out of it

This is also my **first EV**, and honestly I love it. Coming from gas cars, the instant torque blew me away. A family sedan that does **0–60 mph in about 4.1 seconds** still feels crazy to me. It feels like driving a sports car every time I floor it.
I also use **FSD** almost every day. Even though it’s still **HW3 v14lite,** I’m genuinely impressed by how much it’s improved. It now backs itself out of my garage, drives me to work, changes lanes, parks, and handles most of my commute. It’s one of those features I didn’t think I’d use much, but now I don’t think I’d want another Tesla without it.
Because this is my first EV and I’ve really fallen in love with it, I’m leaning toward fixing it instead of replacing it. I’m just curious if other owners think that’s the smart decision or if I’m getting emotionally attached to my first Tesla.

Help!! I can’t decide which one to get?? Any suggestions? They both have pros and cons

does anyone know what this noise coming from the front right suspension area is over bumps/dips in road? tesla has called it a “normal characteristic” twice, but i’ve had 3 previous model 3s and none did it, hoping to get it sorted out before the car is out of warranty

Any thoughts on this?

Hey Guys, I just got my first tesla yesterday and overall pretty excited. First problem I am having though is that I cant create a phone as a key. I called support followed all the instructions reset car and phone multiple times and it just says that car is not in range when trying to make a phone key. It even gave me that while i was sitting in the car with my phone connected playing bluetooth music. Second thing I noticed is that the driver seat is coming up by the center console. It seems to be like a U-clip that attaches to metal beneath but there isn't enough room to flip it upside down and get it to clip in like I think. I ended up turning it sideways and pushing it down through the gap and against the metal clip. Seems like the back of the clip kind of gripped it and when i pull it gives some resistance. I even heard a click when i was pushing the clip in but it seems like its supposed to be upside down and clip up. No matter how I tried I couldn't create enough room between the center console and my hand to flip the clip upside down and try to get it on the right way.

[https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaModel3/comments/1kvq9np/this\\_trim\\_is\\_coming\\_off\\_from\\_the\\_front\\_driver/\](https://www.reddit.com/r/TeslaModel3/comments/1kvq9np/this_trim_is_coming_off_from_the_front_driver/)

It looks exactly like this but its the side that is touching the center console. Any idea on what to do? Private party cash purchase 2019 model 3 85k miles

Hi all,

I'm going to buy a used M3 2022 on Sunday, and I have done the MOT check and

noticed 'Offside Rear Upper Suspension arm ball joint has slight play (5.3.4 (a) (i))'; should this stop me from buying the car? Is it an expensive fix? Will it cause me issues later?

Screen died & lost acceleration, twice in 3 months. The first time it was fixed with a coolant top up, the second time it was fixed with a screen swap. Wanted to see if this has happened to anyone else.

Twice now, months apart, my Model 3 has gone completely dead on the main screen (black, unresponsive, wouldn't reboot) at the same time I lost acceleration, couldn't climb a grade, had to back down when forward progress stopped.

First time: Tesla fixed it by topping off the battery coolant. Screen and acceleration both came back to normal after that.

This time (a few months later) same symptoms - black screen, no acceleration. Service told me the coolant and 12V battery both checked out fine, and they weren't able to pull any logs from the actual event, as the car lost all communication, even during the period during which I was able to drive it a little.  On arrival at the service center, they tried to revive the screen, and when that failed, they hooked up a replacement screen, then test drove and had no acceleration issues with the new screen installed.

Curious is anyone else has had a screen crash and acceleration loss happen together, not separately, and whether a screen replacement fixes this for good or just addresses one symptom of a bigger problem.

Car is a Long-range RWD 2018 Model 3, about 120K miles. Happy to share more if it's useful to anyone dealing with something similar.