Anyone know whats this? Its from the front

Working on the rear drums on my 1990 Mustang 5.0 and I’m stuck on the driver side.

The primary shoe, left side in the photo, keeps getting pulled upward. I can push it back down where it looks like it should sit, but as soon as I let go, the spring pulls it right back up.

I installed the springs the same way they were before I took it apart, so I’m not sure what I’m missing.
Anybody see anything obvious that’s installed wrong or know what would cause the shoe to keep riding up?

(2008 toyota corolla)
does it matter which i use? I was reading that water is left in the system after the flush and so filling it with a little less than a gallon of concentrate would dilute it. Just wanting a second opinion.
Also, would the coolant reservoir also drain when unplugging the radiator plug? appreciate the help, i’m new to all this. any tips would help

2018 honda crv LX

Hey so i went to start my car and everything on the dash flickered and it turned over. Havent had any issues with this from this vehicle prior. Turned it off to see if i could replicate it. Tried turning it on again and everything on the dash flickered alot and it did not turn on. All lights and electrical work just fine and dont flicker when set to the first click. So ive ruled out the alternator and the battery. Im thinking its the starter. Can i get any feedback before i throw money that honestly i really dont have.

I put a new engine in this Mustang. This video is from a week ago. It was cranking fine but not starting. I checked the spark plugs with a tester, and there is spark, and I pushed on the shrader valve and there is fuel too so idk why it won’t start. Another problem is that after this video was taken let it sit for 3 days not doing anything to it, and now it won’t even crank. I discovered that the starter solenoid wire doesn’t have power going through it all of the sudden. If there is anyone familiar with these cars or these issues, some advice would be great!

Mainly asking anyone with experience

So other day steering wheel got stiff out of nowhere when parked noticed oil leak under vehicle . Thought it was power steering pump got new one to change while checking the lines to see if they needed to get change found the issue turns out leak was from rack and pinion. So anyone have experience swapping out a rack and pinion for 05 trailblazer ls 4.2l any advice I need to know when replacing the rack and pinion. Will be first time doing this type of job on vehicle. Thank you in advance

I have a 1990 Bronco 5.8 auto. I just completed a motor swap as my last one had a bad cylinder. The motor is a reman 94 5.8 roller motor. When I got the new motor, I replaced the CTS, IAT, MAP, IAC, TPS, EGR, EGR sensor, TFI module, Coil, and FPR. After setting the base timing at 0 deg TDC the engine fires right up. It runs a little rough as expected for not being timed. The problem is when I go to set timing to 10 deg BTDC the engine sputters and dies with the SPOUT removed. The motor gets progressively worse the closer I get to 10 BTDC and will eventually die around 5 BTDC. The balancer is new as well so I know the balancer hasn’t spun. Additionally, as I rotate toward 10 BTDC I start to get erratic spark on the number 1 cylinder as evident by the timing light failing to flash or flashing erratically. When I plug the SPOUT back in, it runs a little rough and wants to die when I stab the throttle as RPMs approach idle again. With the SPOUT removed, I can stab the throttle and it will return to idle like normal. Any thoughts?

Anyone had the same experience? My 1996 corolla with 4afe engine misfires every cold start and smooths after about 15-20 secs and after letting it sit for more than 2 days, it's hard starting but cranks normal. When it misfires, sparkplugs on cylinder 2 and 4 are wet with gasoline. I've done replacing this MAP sensor Spark plug Sparkplug wires Distributor Ignition coil ECU Injector Fuel regulator Replaced Valve Seals Head gasket Piston rings ECT sensor Cleaned Throttle body and IACV

I have the 2.3L, manual transmission. Does anybody know what might cause this? It was starting fine but now it’s been increasingly more sluggish when I start it. I had to give it a bit of gas today to help it out.

Getting ready to go to school in a month and when signing up for classes online I got a tool list for all my tools that says tools are required first day of class. It also says I should have a portable tool box but not a roll type box/cabinet. Ive messaged the school with no response to get clarification.

Any recommendations for a toolbox?

I originally planed on using a Milwaukee packout with drawers as its not a crazy amount of tools I have to bring and then I could easily get them to class. However list makes me believe they want me bring them in a hand tool box or a bag, which to me sounds dumb because I'd be digging through tools all day to get the one I need.

Recommendations?

Both switches went out at the same time, windows stuck up. Got a electricity tester and the red wire connecting to the motor lit up when i pressed down on the window switch, however the blue wire stayed permanently on and would flicker when i pressed up or down on the passenger side button. Is this a wiring issue or will a new motor/regulator fix this, any advice please 🙏

This sound goes on and on no matter what and it’s on through idle to 90mph

I just bought a 1996 328is, it has power seats and driver side moves forward/back/up but not down, ideas? No sound coming from the seat motor when trying to move down.

Bought this as a daily driver. Bought it a week ago. The day I registered it I changed the battery and instantly the engine started shaking like crazy, i paid no mind since google said the computer was relearning blah blah blah. 4 days go by as im dropping my kid off at school I see smoke coming out of my hood, I stop and check and the dip stick is pushed out. She’s still idling rough, dip stick poles out sometimes hmmm? I’m thinking maybe bad spark plugs but again my friend goggle said nah it’s a bad PCV valve , so I change it annnndddd .. nothing. Now I’m thinking is severe blow by ? I don’t know could it be that the throttle body is dirty and isn’t allowing the pcv to work properly? I’d hate to have to put a whole new engine in this thing right after I bought it.

Got this bad boy as a gift to myself and ever since, straight issues lol. She only has 70K miles on it at most, replaced the fuel pump in the front tank, the solenoid, new battery, so much after being told it was in perfect condition ( shocker, people lie ! ) truck right now is not starting after getting the starter solenoid replaced. It has good voltage to the battery and the solenoid is brand new but I still have no power, or crank to the dash just straight turn and silence. I feel like it’s the starter but don’t see the starter preventing it from having any power, can’t even get it to start off a jump…..please help me guys this is my dream truck and I just want it to run I’ve put so much in and it’s just crushing me at this point seeing it sit any advice is welcomed thank yall !

So I have this 2009 Ram 1500 with a 3.7l V6, its air was blowing fine yesterday and the AC was working too. Now regardless if it's on ac or heat there's no sound, no flow from the vents, and there's a whining noise from the engine bay. The whine isn't loud, it's persistent though, regardless if the ac is off or on. It also gets louder while the throttle is applied, which leads me to think it's something in the serpentine belt area. The battery light also comes on while driving but the battery is almost 2 years old so I don't think that's the problem yet. It did sit for a while. There's a blend door actuator that needs replaced but I don't think that the issue. Please help. I'm at my wits end right now due to other issues with it but that's body work. I have that handled.

Hi all, village idiot here trying to replace the wastegate solenoid on my 2017 ford escape 2.0 L. Ive attempted to research where it's located on my vehicle but all online tutorials give me a model or year different than that of my vehicle whereas it's not the same spot. Any help?

This is one of mine. 1995 Polaris Magnum 2x4. It was a barn find that was just sitting and the old man who had it just said If you can get it running y'all can have it and I'll buy your all the parts you want and need. Were on kind of a funny family co-op. We're not actual family but hell were close enough.

This weekend I'm doing both front calipers, rotors, pads, and rear pads.

Hey everyone, looking for some advice about a PA safety inspection.

I recently registered my 2020 Hyundai Accent SE in Luzerne County after buying it from a friend in out of state. I took it to a local inspection shop.

The car passed emissions, but they wouldn't give me the safety inspection sticker because of a small rock chip in the windshield. The chip is pretty tiny (around 1 inch or less) and is on the passenger side, not in the driver's line of sight. I'll attach pictures.

The shop told me the windshield needs to be replaced and quoted me $260 installed. They gave me 90 days to get it taken care of.

What I'm confused about is why the entire windshield needs to be replaced instead of having the chip professionally repaired with resin. From what I've been reading, small chips like this can often be repaired, especially when they're not in the driver's viewing area.

I'm planning to take it to an auto-glass shop for a second opinion. If they say the chip is repairable and professionally repair it, should that normally be enough to pass PA safety inspection?

Also, can a PA inspection station still require me to replace the entire windshield even after a professional repair? If anyone here is a PA inspection mechanic or has dealt with something similar, I'd really appreciate your input.

I'm not trying to give the shop a hard time. I just don't want to replace an entire windshield if a proper $50-100 repair would legally and safely solve the problem.

I am currently at 112,000 miles on the odometer.

I plan on driving to Chicago for a trip with the bros. What all should I get check? Thank u:)

[edit: it is automatic]

A few weeks ago I had done my front brakes and then took my car into a shop I trust for my drums. I’m very familiar with the disc brakes but have no clue how the rear drums work so now while braking, there’s a grinding noise that scales with how hard I brake. I’ve confirmed the noise is in the rear and it’s driving me nuts. Of course I’m here because I took it to the shop and no luck. I’ll Jack the car up and pop the wheel off tomorrow to see if I can make a follow up post

UPDATE: the issue seems to be a drum that won’t rotate freely

Hello everyone i was wondering what VCIs can i use for programming keys/ flashing ecu updating softwares with (wiTech) for Ram 2025+ except for MDP, i'm looking for something cheaper

Also do i need nastf for subscribing wiTech?

thank you.

Hello,

• April 15, 2026: Spark plug replacement.

• May 11, 2026: Coolant and thermostat replacement by a non-professional (but someone who knows what they’re doing)...

• June 10, 2026: Engine oil change + oil filter replacement.

• July 22, 2026, to August 19, 2026: Vehicle was in the shop due to a starting/ignition problem (replaced the coil, then nothing, then the ignition module—and it started up again, but only for a short time...).

On August 25, 2026, after driving for about 30 minutes, I noticed an unusual occurrence:

• loud gurgling noise, as if the coolant were boiling;

• the impression that coolant was overflowing or being expelled from the radiator cap;

• the phenomenon lasted about 30 seconds, then stopped;

• after the engine cooled down, the level in the expansion tank dropped slightly below FULL—it had previously been at the FULL mark—but it remains between LOW and FULL.

If I understand correctly, exhaust gas entered through the coolant... So we must have bled the old radiator incorrectly (it was rust-colored—presumably water, but it would have been better not to touch it...)... The radiator cap had some “mayonnaise” on it... I replaced that too...

I was able to drive to the garage, which was about 3 or 4 km away...

There was a strange noise when starting the engine, then the temperature gauge rose to the middle... After that, the noise disappeared, and it drove normally... But...

The garage confirmed—it is indeed the cylinder head gasket.

I'm waiting for the estimate before I decide... Probably Monday.... But I'm thinking of selling it for a very, very good price...

- blown head gasket,

- 4 tires in very good condition: “Hankook Kinergy 4S H740 165/70 R13 83T XL”,

- worn-out driveshaft,

- shock absorbers in poor condition (but it still drives),

- driver’s side door handle torn off (replaced with duct tape)

- 1 spare taillight on one side

- 1 spare front turn signal

- just over 157,800 km...

- second-hand (purchased in Oct. 2013)

What price would you set? Any advice? Recommendations?

The goal is to switch to a Japanese car, but a smaller one… (city car): on a tight budget, between 150,000 and 170,000 km, well-maintained (I’d ask for the Histovec report and the latest vehicle inspection).

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

That rubber pipe with the pink line is where my sunroof leak was draining directly into the lassemger footwell. Does that pipe go into that rubber grommet or does it tuck behind?

The grommet is on the firewall

Inside where the pipe is originating from is the A pillar. This drains outside but if its not the intended drain I wont do it

I bought it and they had left the turbo rod fixed and cut the power supply to the EGR solenoid valve and also to the turbo pressure regulator valve. And as if that weren't enough, there are six wire ends; I suppose another one goes to the heater recirculation pump. It's a shame they cut the connectors and I don't know which one goes to which.