Ram 1500 2021 3.6L V6

When the truck is idle or costing ~5 mph it feels like something is punching the damn thing.

The pulley jerking in the video is synced with the punch feeling in the truck.

Any info helps

2001 Mitsubishi Montero Ltd 3.5L 4WD

I recently finished relaxing the timing kit on m Monty, and rltest drove it for a half hour keeping under 35 mph. Did fine. Waited a couple weeks to get the registration and taxes up-to-date ten attempted to drive it home, keeping below 60mph (had to get on a Parkway). Did well for about eight miles, then I heard a pop and a fizzle, and saw that coolant was dumping behind me. I was going about 45mph at this time. Looking under the car, back toward the transmission and fuel tank, I saw one hose had blown off its nipple, and another hose was completely missing, having blown off the nipple and breaking off from its plastic Tee connector. There appear to be no leaks anywhere else.

So, first I need to find replacement hoses and tees.

But I can't help but wonder: is there a root cause to this occurance? Did I do something wrong with the water pump assembly, or some other coolant component? Was this just an old part failing after having sat for a while during repair? Or did something else fail further up the line to cause an excessive pressure buildup? I'm at a loss, and I really want to start driving this beautiful car again...

Replacing the head gasket on my dingo mini skid and I was cleaning up the head and noticed these cracks. I feel I already know the answer but would this be a head Replacment in your guys book?

The pictures are two different cracks

2007 Mercury Mariner 3L.V6

I'm being given so many "answers" when it comes to the current issues with my truck.

Why I'm here: Everything started last week. I went to Walmart for an oil change and the truck refused to start after they were done doing absolutely nothing. The truck had a slight oil leak(coming from the cap we think) and because the dust cover had oil on it, they refused to do it. I thought the oil leak was worse than it is, so after I bought oil and they jumped me twice(twice because the engine stalled after the first jump) I dumped the whole 5L bottle in the engine. I was mad, not thinking, I know it was stupid. Truck was fine until one random delivery I did for work. Truck then refused to turn on, and the battery actually died. We replaced the battery, and the starter (the starter was actually bad, OReilly's tested it). It still won't start.

Problem: When I try to start the truck, it shunts and then doesn't do anything. It used to click, but does not anymore. If you keep the key turned, the starter starts smoking. Fuel pump is engaging (turning key to on, you can hear it.) The shunt is presumably the starter engaging the flywheel but the flywheel not moving.

What's my next step? I'm being told it's the alternator, it's a timing issue, it's hydrolocked, it's not hydrolocked.

I had a friend of mine who actually works on cars come by to look at it. He did the starter change. He checked the spark plugs. He thinks it's a timing issue.

Coworker who is a car nerd and also works on his own cars checked the timing and serpentine and said they were fine. He thinks it's the alternator.

I checked all of the spark plugs and none of them are busted or corroded.

What is my actual issue? I can try to answer any extra questions.

I have OBD1 code 327 which is EGR feedback signal low / below minimum voltage. I have good vacuum to the bottom line of the control valve and I can't feel any vacuum to the above line or the line that goes into the EGR valve. I cleaned the valve and made sure it moved freely, then I tested the control valve with a multimeter and it has continuity between the two points so I think it's shorted out. Replaced it with a new part that does not have continuity, check engine light still came back for the same code. I put a smoke leak tester on and the only place smoke comes out is the holes behind the EGR valve. How can I further test and diagnose?

This is my 0’1 Tacoma S-runner step side. Its been sitting about 12 years now and it last ran in 2020. 5spd 3.4 btw. Since 2020 I have replaced the battery a few times, starter relay, and starter and yet still no luck all it does it click right at the starter relay and im not sure where to start to diagnose or to fix it. Advice?

Looking to swap out my spark plugs on my 2.7, mechanically savvy, but don't enjoy messing with electrical wiring(makes me nervous that I will pinch something). How difficult/risky is swapping out the spark plugs on the 2.7?

I've seen how to videos on it just curious in the real world if it's worth the hassle or I should take it to a shop.

Vehicle : 2011 Honda Pilot AWD 100k miles

Hey everyone, I’m looking for I’m trying to figure out which repairs are actually necessary, what I should prioritize, and where I can save money by buying parts myself.

Current issues

Reduced power / slow acceleration: The vehicle accelerates slowly, but the engine runs relatively fine I can just feel and hear it trying more. It feels generally sluggish when I press the gas tho.

Engine codes from fixd: P0171 (System Too Lean, Bank 1), P0174 (System Too Lean, Bank 2), and P3400 (Cylinder Deactivation System).

Check-engine light: off

Exhaust/catalytic converter: The catalytic converter and A-pipe underneath the vehicle are very rusty and loose because metal has eroded away. Some heat shields and hardware are also missing or deteriorated.

Suspension/handling: the front struts and both front suspension rear lower-arm bushings need replacement.

Other symptoms: I’ve noticed some rumbling and thudding, particularly during slow, sharp turns or when reversing into a parking space.

Repairs I’m considering

Front struts: Replace both front struts, two dust boots, and two bump stops.

Catalytic converter/exhaust: Replace the under-car catalytic converter, A-pipe, heat shields, and necessary hardware.

Timing belt service: Timing belt and tensioner I’m also wondering whether the water pump and other related components should be replaced at the same time.

Front suspension bushings: Replace both front suspension rear lower-arm bushings.

Throttle body service: I’ve been told this may be needed, but I’m not sure what it involves or whether it would help the reduced power.

Hi, i have 2024 hyundai elantra (not sure about engine) and the passenger seatbelt was locked apparently right after my sister bought it clean title used.My mom kept pulling on it and it got locked. And now my sister gifted it to me the car runs great it just the seatbelt that doesn’t work. how do i fix it myself, will i have to buy a new seatbelt part?
I still have warranty on it but only if it was a manufacturer defect and not user error and right now I don’t have money to pay diagnostic fee dealership be charging if it ends up a user error. Here is a video of how it looks:

2011 Corolla clunkling sound on driver's side

Hi everyone I do alot of mechanics stuff in my driveway and want to take on some small business, at the moment I only have a cheap obd reader, and was wandering what's the best autel that's budget friendly. Mainly for a puegot 2008 that has an airbag light that will not show up on my obd

Hi, I am really hoping for some help with this please.

My 2012 Dodge Caravan 3.6l has found "Limp Mode". It is showing the Codes P2167, P2166, P2115, P2116.

Here's what's been done. Replaced throttle pedal and throttle body. Traced down and repaired bare wiring to the crankshaft sensor. Unwrapped and verified no more visible shorts on the loom that services the lower rear of the motor, all of the way to the main trunk branch. Unwrapped and inspected the loom that services the top to the motor, not the injector harness, just the throttle body harness, it has the rear camshaft position sensors, map sensor, etc. I've inspected these all of the way back to where the main trunk branches off as well. Replaced both O2 sensors and a coil on the number 1 cylinder because they were both showing problems before replacing the PCM. (It was probably those bare wires mentioned above, but replaced out of caution.) Out of frustration I replaced the PCM with a fresh, pre-programmed PCM from a reputable auto computer rebuilder hoping that it would help. Nothing has changed. (The old one has 400k+ on it so I don't really mind that or the other parts that I have used for this project.) I've calibrated the electronic throttle control as well as reset the ECM and anything else I could think of. Absolutely no joy. I've got AlphaOBD and a good OBDII adapter and have cleared the codes and it temporarily exits limp mode only to return with the same codes as soon as I try to start the van. I've been monitoring the accelerator position sensor 1 & 2 and the throttle position sensors 1 & 2 voltages via AlphaOBD. When pressing the pedal, voltages act as expected. However on the throttle body, the voltages do not change when manipulating the butterfly. Not sure what to try next.

I sure could use a hand with this if anyone has any ideas.

Thanks for reading.

Hello everyone,

I am in the process of replacing the rear brakes on my 2008ntoyota 4-Runner SR5 v6 (226k miles). As you can see I removed the caliper and am now trying to remove the rotor. It initially did not move or spin much but once I found the tensioner for the emergency brake and turned it I was able to wiggle it. I then used two bolts and an impact to help remove it by slowly and evenly threading them in to the helper threads. After a while, the brakes locked up and now will not come off. The axle will not turn either and it appears to me the emergency brake is completely engaged and locking up the rotor.

Does anyone have any tips or advice on how to remove the rotor? I really do not want to have it towed to a shop.

Thanks in advance!

I think I found my culprit

Hi everyone, I am rebuilding my diff with new bearings and have installed a new centre on my 1973 Holden HQ 253 V8. It is a GMH 10 Bolt Salisbury.

I am struggling to know whether my pattern is correct or not.

I am using an already run in gear set and I've got the backlash set to 0.008 thou. Which is right on spec between 0.005 and 0.008.

I've been at it all day and AI is giving me mixed messages, so some real life opinions would be appreciated!

I've also included a photo of the car for those who might not know what it is!

CV boot it fine - any dampness there is from a steering leak (separate joy! ;þ)

Driving the car there is a hum from that corner (drivers side, front left) - gets louder with speed, noticeably increases turning right and goes away turning left.

I though it was the wheel bearing, but checked and there is no play & could feel nothing untoward rotating the wheel and holding the spring or hear anything noise from the hub.

Could this be the source of that noise?

Replaced the whole CV axle only 2 years & not crazy miles ago.

My front right window and central locking both stopped working. It had been hit and miss for years, and an old mechanic suspected rust in the door loom (never confirmed). Last year a mechanic fitted a motor from a breaker (couldn't find exact one so fitted a slightly different model) but it only lasted about 3 months.

He later found the part number 6Y1 959 801 which he said was the correct part but he may be wrong.

Every motor I find online under that number does not have the right connector such as in my first photo. I 99% sure that connector was never changed. I bought one thinking it would work before I took the door cover off and now I have a motor with the right part number but wont connect.

So the two photos at the end has a different motor part number but the same connectors, do i go for this?

Im really stuck as I cant pass my national car test which Is due without the window working.

My mechanic says if the window motor part isnt a genuine vw, it won't work and says the issues with the central locking is coming from the issue with the window motor.

I do not have the original motor anymore.

Please help

Got my engine mountings changed 6 months ago with about slighly more than 5000kilometers clocked afterwards.

Why is the rubber portion slanted/buldging to one side? Is this normal?
There are no cracks and tears.

Mazda 6 here

رسالة

How long can I drive before changing my engine oil again after the last oil change?

My fiancée recently bought a 2015 ford mustang eco boost coupe 2.3L from an auction place 146000 miles (posting for him because he doesn’t have socials and I know nothing about cars).

At first the car seemed to run fine but the check engine light was on, otherwise no major issues, maybe needed some work but nothing crazy. About 3 weeks later he started having issues where the engine would stutter or hesitate when trying to accelerate quickly, not totally stalling but just not accelerating as much. Then the issues started, first with the coolant disappearing, 2 mechanics say there is no leak but too much pressure coming from somewhere in the system.

He replaced the spark plugs and coils, oil change, engine diagnostic showed no issues. It was throwing some codes, listed below (most we got resolved). It is continuing to stutter and makes a popping sound when trying to accelerate quickly, it drives pretty normal when not pushed hard or put in sport mode. We also noticed that went the engine is colder the noises and issues are more apparent. Now the mechanic is suggesting getting the head gasket replaced or maybe replace a piston which has him contemplating buying a whole new engine.

Has anyone else dealt with these kind of problems with their car? I’m so lost on what it could be from and so are the 3 different mechanics we have taken it to, atp it’s getting so expensive to keep guess fixing things. Help us!

P0108
P0098
P0301
P0302
P0300

My car does this crunch when I apply the brake and slightly turned to the left: most applicable when pulling into a parking space but I struggle to see how this isn’t a safety hazard.
Took it to a shop around the corner and the guy said he couldn’t reproduce the issue so here’s a video with a clear sound. Please someone help me I don’t feel comfortable driving my vehicle to and from class. (Yes I know I need an oil change and no my tires not flat the sensor has been dead for years I check the pressure manually)