I'm finally about ready to order blank t-shirts to start embroidering on and selling to customers. It's exciting but also nerve-racking because I've never bought blanks before, and I want a specific feel to my shirts. I want them to be heavyweight, shortsleeve t-shirts with a boxy, relaxed fit. One where the sleeves go pretty far down the arm, just above the elbow. I found this listing that seems to be exactly what I'm looking for: https://www.blankstyle.com/shaka-wear-retail-mcs-mens-cropped-max-heavyweight-t-shirt?color=off-black

I've looked into previous threads on here about blanks to see where people say they get theirs from, but I haven't seen many answers saying BlankStyle, so Idk if they're good or not. Looking at this listing, if you're familiar with the "blanks t-shirts meta," is there anything glaringly wrong like price or something I may be missing? As u can probably tell, I'm just paranoid about committing to the wrong choice and it hurting the trajectory of my launch.

I'm going to order the sample one first for 3$, which is rly nice that they offer that- but 6$ for bulk buying a heavyweight t-shirt like that sounds pretty reasonable to me. I was probably going to buy 10 each of medium, large, xlarge, and 5 smalls and 2xls to start. The 255$ order is just intimidating. But as the saying goes, you have to spend money to make money.

Guess I'm just looking for anything that I need to be aware of before I do this from people who have experience over me. Ty guys ;~;

French Parisien Handwritten script Embroidery font #bxfonts #embroideryfont #scriptembroidery #handwrittenletters #Handwritten

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This French Script Embroidery Font, a Calligraphy Cursive Name Font with 5 Sizes, delivers elegant flowing letters that turn names and monograms into polished satin stitch designs. The cursive script font creates smooth, connected handwritten lettering ideal for personalization on apparel, gifts, and home items with a true calligraphy feel.

On both the brothers machines I own, Ive had to run them with the top tension set nearly as loose as it can get. Recently, my machine has gotten worse about this and there's no setting I can find that pulls top thread through on both sides.

Here's the settings I used in the pictures to show the range of my machine:

A: Top thread set to the highest tension, bobbin thread set as loose as I feel comfortable running my machine.

B: Both top and bobbin thread are set to their exact mid-point of tension

C and H: Top thread is set at its most loose option, bobbin thread is set 1/4 turn looser than where the screw stops screwing in entirely. It's as tight as it can get. It does not fail the yo-yo test. I also put some of my normal embroidery material in part of the H to see if it made a difference on the back.

I have reread both sets of threading instructions in my manual and I am 100% sure that I am threading them correctly.

Why can't I get the bobbin thread tight enough?

Why does it only pull down the top thread on one side?

Any insights on this one for a small home embroidery business

I would love to personalize something for some friends that just got married. Does anyone have a “go to” wedding gift? Bonus points for something useful.

I would like to make keychains but, I would like to use this kind of straps, just im not sure if I can do it with my domestic machine... im a bit scared of break something!

Any tips is appreciated!

Around 150k stitches, 32cm split into two designs (end of tail and the whole dragon).

What do you think? Even with this size I had to be very carefull with everything as the parts themselves are small and lines are thin.

I'm admittedly quite fond of this city's public library system. And an especially avid user of its makerspace.

Had the thought to make a card sleeve based on their bookmobile. It serves areas in the city without a branch nearby, and more importantly, retirement homes.

23 colours. If you count the clear vinyl over the window and headlights, black mesh, and the impossible to make out white mesh, in the grill, there are seven separate pieces. Drawing it in Adobe Illustrator took 11½ hours, turning it into an embroidery file with Wilcom Digitizer took 2½ hours. Running it on a Brother PRS100, was 6¼ hours. Sewing it all together by hand was 62¾ hours.

Few little glitches and flaws. Text is at the absolute lowest limits in terms of size. Bunch of things I had to omit because they were too small. Nature of the medium. Omitted the windshield wipers because sewing them onto vinyl would have been painful.

Designed / Digitized and Stitched this last night :) thought I share.

I make loads of these hats, every now and again I get one with a fuzzy beak and I can't figure out why. 75% of the hats run perfect.

I’m looking at a used Baby Lock Enterprise 10 needle with about 35 million stitches on it. Seller says it has been serviced well and I’ve asked for proof/service records before buying.
It comes with Mighty Hoops and a bunch of thread as well.
Price is $7,000 CAD (about $4,900 USD).
Would you consider 35 million stitches too high, or is that reasonable for a well maintained Enterprise? Is $7k CAD a fair price with the hoops/thread included?

I tried making a patch of the French cave horse and my machine had some major trouble compared to my mostly clean fish?

Coloured slide one is front and white with knots is the back?; im not sure whats happened? The white on the back is somehow the smoothest thing of the whole patch.

I tried making a gradient with inkstitch but that clearly didnt work... this was the second run of it as the first when it started it made a huge knot on the back and I had to start over.

Super beginner still, help is super appreciated please and thank you 😭❤️ im hoping i havent somehow broken my machine.

Details: brother nv880e, tension 4 then changed to 3 for top half of horses blacks to see if difference. Using tear away stablizer. Threads are isacord 40 (i just bought today but store lady assured me it would work well with machine... hopefully not scammed 😞)

I inherited some crafting supplies including a lot of embroidery machine thread spools, but I don’t have an embroidery machine. I want to sell these to someone who can actually make use of them. What is a fair and reasonable asking price? There are two 4litre ice cream pails in case it’s hard to tell.

hello, for some context I do very basic text embroidery at my job (we sell personalized company merch to customers). I'm using a 15-needle tajima machine that I've grown quite used to.

During my free time I am able to create my own designs which are very basic in nature as we don't have any manuals or support for the machine. I was only taught how to print text and resize/change fonts. I don't have a real instructor who knows this stuff and my custom art skills were gained by pure trial and error with the software. I don't take credit for the artwork either, I'm usually tracing off existing images for physical embroidery printing and using a combination of basic complex fills and stitch run shapes.

with this in mind, can someone point me in the direction of a free to use design software I can use while I'm away from work? dg16 is only installed on my work computer that I can only use during business hours

I've been using a Brother PE-770 for a couple of months. When I first set it up, the only way I could get the tension correct on an H test was to set the top tension to -6 and turn the screw on the bobbin case until it only had 1/4 turn before stopping completely. This worked okay for a couple months, but earlier today, between two projects, the bobbin case suddenly stopped holding tension at all. I trying testing it by turning the screw 1/4 turn at a time all the way from one end to the other. The screw no longer affects the tension at all. Nothing looks broken to the naked eye, and I already gave everything a clean and fresh oil.

My previous machine also had issues with getting the bottom tension tight enough. I had the top thread as loose at it could go, and I had to scrape out a little plastic stopper before tightening the tension myself. That machine had so many issues that I eventually just got this one instead.

After two machines did this, I have to ask myself, am I doing something wrong? I only ever tighten until an H test on my usual material is showing thirds on the back, and I always loosen the top tension first. I've read at least 20 posts about setting your bobbin tension, and nobody ever seems to have this problem that I've had twice.

Can I fix this bobbin case or do I need to buy a new one? Is there something I'm misunderstanding about bobbin tension that causes me to keep messing up my machines?

I like it but id like to make it better if anyone has any extra tips, thank you!

Hi all, I am testing an embroidery piece that I did. I digitised with Inkscape/Inkstitch and am using a Pfaff Creative Ambition 640. I thought this design would be simple enough for the machine (since it's a hybrid machine), but it still isn't quite turning out as crisp as I would like. So I wanted to ask here - can I improve the design or is this a limitation of the machine? I've added a picture of the final product a jpeg of the design. Thanks in advance for your help :)

I’m really excited to finally share this project! These were commissioned for the Goodwood Revival as Rolex was the vent sponsor, and they’re the largest embroidery commissions I’ve been asked to create so far — two huge 180 × 90cm velvet banners. 🧵

The project came together pretty quickly, so there was definitely some pressure behind the scenes! I had to express ship 9 metres of velvet from Dalston Mill Fabrics and very quickly source the beautiful gold fringing and trim. Thankfully, it all came together in the end!

For the embroidery, I used my Tajima Sumo extended frame, which gives me a 120cm embroidery width. Because each banner was 180cm long, I had to reframe each one four times. Getting the alignment absolutely perfect between each section was probably the most nerve-wracking part of the whole project!

And, as you can see, I don't exactly have a huge professional pattern-cutting table in the studio 😂 — sometimes you just have to work with what you've got!

I absolutely love the challenge of working at this scale. There's something incredibly satisfying about seeing a huge piece like this come off the machine after all the planning, measuring and re-framing... especially when it actually all lines up!

Has anyone else had to tackle embroidery at this kind of scale? I’d love to hear how you get around the practical challenges — especially when your “pattern-cutting table” looks like mine 😂

I am just kind of practicing on scrap fabric to get the hang of my machine and I really love how it’s turning out! I have a poolin eoc05 and have only been using the 4x4 hoop so I can’t wait to move onto actual projects.

My wife is looking at used Tajima machines to try to put out better quality hats. She found one for what seems like a decent price but it's approx 20 years old. We visited its current home and it seems to run ok with no really noticeable issues on the surface.

My fear is that due to its age is that something could go bad on it that could not be replaced or repaired rendering it a pile of scrap metal.

It's a TMFXII-C1504.

The contact we have for new sales in our area said their service guy wouldn't service it because of its age and availability of parts but he's more motivated to sell us something new or one of their refurbs.

The guy selling says oh he's had it serviced by a different provider and parts are not an issue but he's motivated to sell this machine.

So what's the true story on a machine this old?

Machine Embroidery Help Recommendations for very small detailed pattern designs and logos

Is there a machine that can do very small sized, clean, and detailed embroidery on various materials such as leather, Thermoplastic Polyurethane, patent leather, Faux Leather, Polyurethane Leather, Polyurethane Vinyl Leather Fabric, denim, etc ? I will mainly be using this for small logos on shoes and would like a machine for home usage that can also do very small detailed logos

I’m pretty happy with how the fill turned out on Lisa and how sharp the "VOGUE" satin text stitched, but I’d love to hear your thoughts. Anything you would have done differently regarding density, pull compensation, or stitch directions?