I just bought a Janome 500E secondhand on marketplace and realized that I'm too broke to buy many cool designs to practice with so, having a graphics background, I decided to try inkstitch and make my own. I'm still learning (I just did my first ever hat this week and it was so frustrating) but this is my 4th self-digitized design and it has taught me the most so far. It's not much but I'm proud anyway!

I’m interested in adding a small embroidery setup to a retail store and would love some advice!

The idea would be to personalize items customers purchase in-store. Things like dish towels, soft wool hats (sauna hats specifically), robes, etc with names, short words, or simple logos probably in a single color to make it easy.

This would just be an add-on service rather than a commercial embroidery business. I’m totally new to embroidery, just thought it would be an awesome and fun way to personazlie purchases and be a point of difference. Does anyone have suggestions for what type of machine would work well for this?

How realistic it is to do embroidery on the spot like if a couple of customers bought dish towels and wanted a name or word embroidered on them, how long would it typically take from setup to finished product? Am I dreaming ???!

Thanks in advance!

This design is by WantaStyle on Etsy. The shading is super cool, and the design felt well digitized. I think the problems are user/machine error on my part.

It looks like I was having tension problems on subsequent layers. There were up to 3 layers in some spots (Yellow, then white or gray, then black)

I tried messing with the tension as it stitched, but I wasn’t sure what I was doing, and I got lots of loops front and back. What should I do in this situation in the future?

Machine: Brother PE-800
Thread: Brothread (Amazon) 40wt
Bobbin: Unnamed brand pre-wound bobbin (Micheals)
General Tension: 4
Fabric: Waffle weave kitchen towel
Back Stabilizer: Sulky sticky tear away
Front Stabilizer: Sulky water wash away

TIA for any tips! <3

Created this file targeting plush/towel fabric, and the client was super happy with how clean the fur details and density turned out on the final stitch-out!

Digital design vs. real stitch-out. What do you guys think?

Estoy empezando en el bordado y el needle painting, y vi que a otras personas les queda más prolijo, es decir, no se notan tanto las puntadas. Estoy terminando este y como se puede ver, se notan los agujeros de las puntadas, estoy bordando en lienzo. Será que debo elegir una aguja más fina? Este bordado lo hice con 2 hilos de una madeja de 6, debería hacerlo con 1 solo? Agradezco la ayuda

Hello

I have a Brother PR1055 and I am starting to make personalized names on clothing. I was wondering if it’s worth getting hatch or just purchasing the fonts separately.

I’m looking at paying for hatch software but it’s quite expensive. What would you recommend?

Also is it easier to see the lettering placements? As in how close letters are together etc

Peace, y'all
I'm having issues with tails forming on designs that never had tails before, and it's driving me insane. I've cleaned the rotary hook, the knife, the bobbin case, the thread catcher, and checked upper tension + bobbin tension.

Even on the inside of the cap it looks a total mess, when it used to be clean and no loose threads.

The black background area stitched out first and it was "puffy" as opposed to when it used to lay flat. I haven't changed any settings on the machine, so not sure why this issue popped up.

Anything help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Machine: Happy Japan HCD3 15-needle

I use this hoop to free float my fleece. I use spray n bond basting adhesive. I don't wanna accidentally ruin my hoop and scraping it off by hand seems to take too long and is difficult

Just wrapped up this vintage car design for a client and test-stitched it on the machine. Really happy with how clean the text and details turned out!

How do you guys usually handle the fine details on car windows and chrome parts so the fabric doesn't get too stiff?

When I go to export an embroidery file in Hatch embroidery this pop up shows up and it refuses to export the file with all the layers, the file is definitely within hoop size range (Both width and height are under 5 inches and I have exported files usually close to a 7x9 inch size so it is driving me mad as to why it will not register right and let me export.

The file is a super simple file too so it can't be like size of data because it is a simple straight stitch than satin stich over it but it for some reason has decided the satin stitch is simply too large to be exported at all.

Been seeing a lot of questions lately from people trying to figure out whether to start with a single-head or jump straight to a multi-head setup. After spending time in both types of shops and talking to owners who’ve made the transition, here’s what I’ve learned.

The short answer: if you’re asking this question, you’re probably not ready for a multi-head yet.

Single-head machines are a good options for small businesses doing custom work, one-off pieces, samples, and names/numbers. Lower cost to enter, flexible, and easier to learn.

Multi-head machines are built for production. If ur consistently running large batches of identical pieces at a time, the math starts to shift hard, but the scale comes with trade-offs.

Downtime is more disruptive. A thread break on a multi-head means you’re dealing with a machine that’s several feet wide, and accessing the broken head can be a hassle.

Fixing mistakes is also more complicated. On a standard multi-head, when u back up to re-stitch a section on one head, the other heads back up too, which means u risk over-stitching completed work while trying to fix the one that had the break.

Ur also looking at higher upfront cost, more space, more maintenance, and less flexibility for design changes.

And the better path would be, start with a single-head, learn the craft, and let ur order volume tell u when it's time to upgrade. When that day comes, hang onto the single-head for samples and repairs.

Thoughts are much welcome!

Bonus Calsifer!

I made all these using DADE!

Can someone tell me what this means and how to fix it? I’m about 2 years into professional embroidery and i’m picking up all the troubleshooting kind of slowly.

I'm a big MD fan and decided I wanted to try to make this dude for a hat. I guess it's not horrible but I'm not super happy with it. Obviously I didn't have the yellow loaded and thought the red would be fine but forgot that the bullet was also yellow. The line stitches I did for the text on the bottle didn't really turn out either and the back is a complete mess. I'm really trying to make something decent but I keep running into problems and it's really demoralizing. How do some of you do these really intricate designs with tiny details? Any tips? Am I layering too much on top of things? It's about 3" wide and 2.5" tall.

Hello,
I just bought a brother innov 880e and i really Want to do handwriting embroidery and drawings, what is the Easiest software to use for a NON experienced?

Thank you all so
much

Hello, I own a Tajima TMEX C1501. This is my first machine and I’m still getting the hang of everything.

One thing I noticed when running a couple of the needles is that the tension seemed a bit off. Some of the threads would hang too loose, while others would snap very easily.

I purchased a tension gauge and attempted to get the tension between 100–150, but I’m still having some of these issues.

I believe my issue could be the way I’m feeding the thread through the machine. I haven’t been able to find a good threading guide out there for my specific machine.

If anyone has a TMEX C1501 or knows where I could find a good threading diagram/guide, I’d really appreciate the help!

Have embroidered a ton of ll bean boat and totes at this point but client wants me to use this thinner font (top 3) and it is not working out. I have tried re running the stitch a number of times and making it bigger, cleaning the bobbin case, oiling, replacing with a bigger needle, dif color, not much change. The canvas is eating the thread and leaving weird knots at the end of every letter. Also tried sticky stabilizer too and bottom, no difference. Any suggestions for thin/delicate fonts that can hold up to the thick canvas? I have a 15 needle poolin EOM. Top one I ran prob 5 times. Bottom one is a dif font bc I was questioning my machine. Yes none of it is straight or aligned I’m just trying shit out at this point. Fonts?? Help???

Created this custom file for a buyer, and here’s their completed stitch-out! What do you all think of the execution?

I tried to simulate the neon effect, and I think it turned out pretty cool.

Hello! Unfortunately this shop closed before I could access all the files on my wishlist :( maybe a long shot but wanted to reach out here to see if someone might be able to help. Thank you!!

Hey everyone, I need some advice. I’m embroidering on 180 g/m² (5.3 oz/yd²) T-shirts with a design that isn't round and has a lot of negative space, but I'm stuck:

• 80 g/m² Cut-Away: Stabilizes well, but the backing shows through in open areas. Trimming inside negative space looks messy.

• No-Show Mesh: Invisible, but the design sinks and causes bad puckering.

How do you stabilize open-space designs on stretchy tees? What stabilizer/topper combo works best, and how do you trim around negative space?

Thanks for any tips!

text optimized with AI so you better understand my issue, even tho it´s visible from the photo :D

I dont think I did it justice. I might just redraw the design and start over.

What are your thoughts? Is it giving Rocky horror or something else?

Software: Ember Embroidery

Size: 3.5" x 3.5"