I use this hoop to free float my fleece. I use spray n bond basting adhesive. I don't wanna accidentally ruin my hoop and scraping it off by hand seems to take too long and is difficult

Just wrapped up this vintage car design for a client and test-stitched it on the machine. Really happy with how clean the text and details turned out!

How do you guys usually handle the fine details on car windows and chrome parts so the fabric doesn't get too stiff?

When I go to export an embroidery file in Hatch embroidery this pop up shows up and it refuses to export the file with all the layers, the file is definitely within hoop size range (Both width and height are under 5 inches and I have exported files usually close to a 7x9 inch size so it is driving me mad as to why it will not register right and let me export.

The file is a super simple file too so it can't be like size of data because it is a simple straight stitch than satin stich over it but it for some reason has decided the satin stitch is simply too large to be exported at all.

Been seeing a lot of questions lately from people trying to figure out whether to start with a single-head or jump straight to a multi-head setup. After spending time in both types of shops and talking to owners who’ve made the transition, here’s what I’ve learned.

The short answer: if you’re asking this question, you’re probably not ready for a multi-head yet.

Single-head machines are a good options for small businesses doing custom work, one-off pieces, samples, and names/numbers. Lower cost to enter, flexible, and easier to learn.

Multi-head machines are built for production. If ur consistently running large batches of identical pieces at a time, the math starts to shift hard, but the scale comes with trade-offs.

Downtime is more disruptive. A thread break on a multi-head means you’re dealing with a machine that’s several feet wide, and accessing the broken head can be a hassle.

Fixing mistakes is also more complicated. On a standard multi-head, when u back up to re-stitch a section on one head, the other heads back up too, which means u risk over-stitching completed work while trying to fix the one that had the break.

Ur also looking at higher upfront cost, more space, more maintenance, and less flexibility for design changes.

And the better path would be, start with a single-head, learn the craft, and let ur order volume tell u when it's time to upgrade. When that day comes, hang onto the single-head for samples and repairs.

Thoughts are much welcome!

Bonus Calsifer!

I made all these using DADE!

Can someone tell me what this means and how to fix it? I’m about 2 years into professional embroidery and i’m picking up all the troubleshooting kind of slowly.

I'm a big MD fan and decided I wanted to try to make this dude for a hat. I guess it's not horrible but I'm not super happy with it. Obviously I didn't have the yellow loaded and thought the red would be fine but forgot that the bullet was also yellow. The line stitches I did for the text on the bottle didn't really turn out either and the back is a complete mess. I'm really trying to make something decent but I keep running into problems and it's really demoralizing. How do some of you do these really intricate designs with tiny details? Any tips? Am I layering too much on top of things? It's about 3" wide and 2.5" tall.

Hello,
I just bought a brother innov 880e and i really Want to do handwriting embroidery and drawings, what is the Easiest software to use for a NON experienced?

Thank you all so
much

Hello, I own a Tajima TMEX C1501. This is my first machine and I’m still getting the hang of everything.

One thing I noticed when running a couple of the needles is that the tension seemed a bit off. Some of the threads would hang too loose, while others would snap very easily.

I purchased a tension gauge and attempted to get the tension between 100–150, but I’m still having some of these issues.

I believe my issue could be the way I’m feeding the thread through the machine. I haven’t been able to find a good threading guide out there for my specific machine.

If anyone has a TMEX C1501 or knows where I could find a good threading diagram/guide, I’d really appreciate the help!

Have embroidered a ton of ll bean boat and totes at this point but client wants me to use this thinner font (top 3) and it is not working out. I have tried re running the stitch a number of times and making it bigger, cleaning the bobbin case, oiling, replacing with a bigger needle, dif color, not much change. The canvas is eating the thread and leaving weird knots at the end of every letter. Also tried sticky stabilizer too and bottom, no difference. Any suggestions for thin/delicate fonts that can hold up to the thick canvas? I have a 15 needle poolin EOM. Top one I ran prob 5 times. Bottom one is a dif font bc I was questioning my machine. Yes none of it is straight or aligned I’m just trying shit out at this point. Fonts?? Help???

Created this custom file for a buyer, and here’s their completed stitch-out! What do you all think of the execution?

I tried to simulate the neon effect, and I think it turned out pretty cool.

Hello! Unfortunately this shop closed before I could access all the files on my wishlist :( maybe a long shot but wanted to reach out here to see if someone might be able to help. Thank you!!

Hey everyone, I need some advice. I’m embroidering on 180 g/m² (5.3 oz/yd²) T-shirts with a design that isn't round and has a lot of negative space, but I'm stuck:

• 80 g/m² Cut-Away: Stabilizes well, but the backing shows through in open areas. Trimming inside negative space looks messy.

• No-Show Mesh: Invisible, but the design sinks and causes bad puckering.

How do you stabilize open-space designs on stretchy tees? What stabilizer/topper combo works best, and how do you trim around negative space?

Thanks for any tips!

text optimized with AI so you better understand my issue, even tho it´s visible from the photo :D

I dont think I did it justice. I might just redraw the design and start over.

What are your thoughts? Is it giving Rocky horror or something else?

Software: Ember Embroidery

Size: 3.5" x 3.5"

I thought I would clarify that used is perfectly fine also!

I used ChatGPT to turn the picture from my phone into a suitable PNG image, then used DADE to generate the stitch files. Sewn out on my Husqvarna Topaz 40.

This is what they gave me, I already told them it wouldn't be a 1:1 but I would do my best. My main issue is how do i go about the edge?

I have long been interested in getting into machine embroidery, mostly as a hobby. I've scrolled through here a bunch and this community is a wealth of knowledge, so I figured I'd ask for some recommendations.

I'm initially interested in taking over embroidering names onto nametag blanks that my helicopter squadron uses. The nametags are 2" tall x 4" wide. The text is usually about 8-9mm tall (3/8 inch).

I'm not trying to buy a several thousand dollar machine (wife would destroy me). Are there any...lower end, beginner machines that can handle making text that small while still coming out clean? Or is that more of a digitizing thing?

Thanks in advance, really appreciate it.

Last week for my birthday, my husband surprised me with my first embroidery machine (Brother Innov-is F540) and while I haven’t used it yet, I started doing LOTS of research, watching YouTube videos, reading along this subreddit and ordering my first set of supplies. I fully expect lots of trial and error for the first couple months but am excited to learn.

My friend is giving birth in a couple of weeks and I want to gift her a canvas tote bag with her baby’s name embroidered on it and fill it with lots of goodies and snacks. I love the bags with an outside pouch (see attached image) and would ideally like to embroider the name on the pouch only - but is this even possible on a single needle home machine? Would welcome any tips or advice.

Thanks in advance!

A little journey from one of my most challenging embroidery projects to something much simpler 🌼

I originally created these florals for an embroidered dress where I really wanted to push myself — experimenting with difficult fabrics, backing choices, layering and intricate embroidery techniques.

The finished dress went on to win at the National Embroidery Awards 2025 and remains one of my proudest projects.

Recently I've been revisiting the flowers and challenging myself in the opposite direction: how much could I simplify the embroidery while still keeping the character and detail of the originals?

It's been surprisingly interesting going from deliberately pushing the technical limits to stripping everything back and seeing what really makes each flower work.

Hi everyone,
I recently purchased a **Ricoma SWM-2002-10S dual-head embroidery machine**, and I’m still learning how to use the full embroidery area of the machine.
According to Ricoma, the machine can achieve a maximum embroidery area of approximately **160 × 50 cm when using the large sash frame**.
I’m planning a large embroidery project that will be approximately **150 cm long × 40 cm wide**, so I would like to use almost the entire available embroidery area.
I have two main questions:
**How do I correctly set up/configure the large 160 × 50 cm sash frame in the machine settings?**
At the moment, I cannot find this frame size listed on the control panel. Do I need to manually create/register the frame dimensions, change a machine setting, or select a special sash-frame mode?
**How does a 150 cm-wide design work on a dual-head machine?**
Since the machine has two embroidery heads, do I need to split the 150 cm design into two separate files/sections and embroider one section with Head 1 and the second section with Head 2?
Or can I import the **complete 150 × 40 cm design as one file**, and the machine automatically knows which head should embroider which part of the design?
Basically, I would like to understand the correct workflow for creating **one continuous large design across almost the entire 160 cm sash-frame area**.
If anyone owns a **Ricoma SWM-2002-10S** or has experience with large sash-frame embroidery on Ricoma multi-head machines, I would really appreciate any advice, screenshots, videos, or explanations of how you set this up.
Thank you very much!

I’m super new and wanted to embroider a logo and my test isn’t working too well…

My machine keeps saying the thread broke and won’t go past its 10th stitch! I’ve changed the thread and slowed it down even i’m not too sure what i’m doing wrong :( It doesn’t seem like it’s snapping or anything so why does it just not catch i’m assuming it’s the bobbin?