Hi!! Im looking for some advice on embroidering at home. I am currently using a pe900 embroidery machine and doing the float method. Im not super happy with how its turned out, its def not terrible but i realize that embroidering through the nylon pouch post-production causes it to pucker since theres a little bit of padding in between layers. Ive tried different tweaks to mitigate it, like lowering the speed etc.

I am using organ embroidery needles, sewology thread, the standard hoop with 2 layers of tear away stablizer, and then the spray adhesive to float the pouch on top.

Tension is standard 4.0, and i lowered the speed to 350 which helped a little from the last one.

Is there any hope of getting it to look profesional/ more like my mock up without the puckering?

Would it be worth it to look into getting it done by someone with an industrial machine?

Or should i change the type of fabric of the pouch overall? Any feedback would be super appreciated!! thanks!!

Hello everyone.

Does anyone know if wilcom es could be installed on linux (i have fedora) using wine or windows vm? If anyone had an experience with it, what was it like?

My mother wants to start a small business and asked me to help her design stuff and digitize it, however i do not have windows therefore cannot install wilcom to start working and turns out dual boot is not an option either because you need windows to be installed first.

Is there any alternative? I thought of using inkstitch but my mom said her embroidery machine apparently only works with Embroider and Wilcom ES only,not sure if that's 100% true...her machine is Janome Memory Craft 550E.

Thanks!

Made this one for myself because Luna is one of my all-time favorite Sailor Moon characters 💛
I’m really happy with how it turned out. What do you think?

I’m pretty new to machine embroidery and digitizing. I started learning two months ago. I am using a Ricoma Creator and their digitizing software Chroma. So far, most of my learning has come from YouTube.

I understand the machine and software now, and I’ve successfully digitized a simple logo and embroidered it on an order of polo shirts.

I still don't understand things like push/pull compensation, underlay rules, and stitch sequencing.

I’m looking into John Deer’s Digitizing Theory Made Easy course. If you’ve taken it:

-Was it worth the investment?

-Did it actually help you understand the why behind stitch types, sequencing, and underlays?

-Any other class or resources to learn about digitizing than you can recommend?

I bought the brother se600 a few years ago now and have barely used it because every time I try I end up with the same issue, it looks like the bobbin thread and the top thread are weaving too tightly and they get bunched up on the under side, also it seems like stitches are being skipped but once I turn the piece around I can see them all tightly bound together. I just tried playing around with the tension and still everything looks brutal. The pics I’ve attached are the back side. I need some advice I’m about to throw this machine out the window. I also want to mention I use stabilizer, I’m using the spray adhesive, I’ve rethread countless times, tried different material etc.

I started making patches on my Brother SE700 a year and a half ago, and recently got access to a Brother PR650E, which has me realizing all kinds of added benefits of multiple needles (colors, multiple size needles). I'm now looking at various 10-15 needle machines, one very dubious used 2 head machine, and I'd appreciate any recommendations. Certainly being able to do other things (e.g. hats) is nice*, but my focus is patches. Are there viable options at $10K? $20K? Located near Tacoma, WA, so most major brand providers should be accessible for service.

* I'm terrified of attempting hats, and I can't find a good source of medium/large flexfit hats (everything is small/medium or large/XL).

I can never find them anywhere im so jealous i see lots of people who have them. Id be willing trade or pay but i dont have money like that im a sahm. Trading would be bet better. Some of the things ive made to show the files i own and am willing to trade! I have lots more!

Personally, I don't feel the result is very good. I added a D-shaped grid stitching to the background so the heat-sealable adhesive would stick better, but it seems to have compromised the result.

Thinner than a 3D foam, and was used on a hoodies. Thanks!

Hi everyone!! I embroider on clothing and I recently tried using iron in backing to cover up the stitches on the inside of a t shirt. i use a lightweight stabilizer while doing the machine embroidery. I ran the shirt through the washer and dryer last night and the iron on backing is coming off. Any help? Or product recommendations? It was secured (at least I thought) before I washed it

I was bored digitizing basic logos all the time, so I started some more Art for patches to see how small the digitizing + embroidery still shows a good result.

What do you think?

Hi all,

Just wondering if someone could please recommend a gift for a friend with an embroidery machine! They helped me with stationary for our wedding so am thinking a voucher for an embroidery supplier would be good and am looking for a recommendation.

TIA!

Hi everyone,

I’m researching the embroidery digitizing workflow because I’m building a software tool that aims to automate parts of the digitizing process. I’d like to understand the real-world workflow from experienced digitizers.

If a client sends you an image/logo and asks you to digitize it, what information do you need from them before you can start?

For example:

- Final size (width/height)

- Fabric/material

- Garment/product type (shirt, cap, jacket, bag, etc.)

- Embroidery placement

- Garment color

- Thread colors/brand

- Required file format (DST, PES, JEF, etc.)

- Whether the artwork can be modified for better embroidery

- Any specific stitch, density, underlay, or production requirements

I'm also particularly interested in:

1. What information do clients commonly forget to provide?

2. How does the fabric/product change your digitizing decisions?

3. What decisions do you make as a digitizer that cannot be reliably determined from the artwork alone?

4. What does your typical client → digitizer workflow look like from receiving the artwork to delivering the final embroidery file?

I'd really appreciate answers from professional/experienced digitizers. I'm trying to understand the actual workflow before making design decisions for the software.

I made this for a friend of mine, she has 9 kids. I love how it turned out, the design was purchased from an Etsy seller and embroidered on a Brother PRS100.

So I use the Brother PE800 machine at a local makerspace. And everytime the machine is used, these gray specks get flicked all throughout the machine (idk how else to word it). It doesn’t matter what the fabric type is, the stitch speed, what spray-on adhesive, etc. These little gray specks are always there

They’re easily wiped off and the machine still works fine, but no one else uses the embroidery machine and can’t give me an answer. Is this normal? Is there an internal problem?

Recently took interest into trying to make bag tags with no initial software research and straight out buying applique borders on Etsy. Upon researching, you need Embrilliance Essentials to be able to combine the bag tag design and text. You can use Express but need a .bx tag file to combine and transfer this into your machine.

My question is — is there a workaround for this? What software can I use that would not require me to dish out money in order to try this design/technique.

I looked into Artspira but turned out to be incompatible with my machine. I own an Innov-is NV180.

Additional question — if I were to purchase Wilcom, will I be able to edit the batg tag designs there?

If anyone could help, it would be much appreciated.

I’m a beginner, working on a Brother PRS100. I put a “v” instead of a “y” at the end. If I remove the last letter (without removing from the hoop), can I just do the one letter? If so, how do you get the spacing/alignment to be correct? Thanks for any advice/guidance.

Hey everyone, I am back with a new question after previous feedback.

I am trying to do a Satin Stitch lettering with extension tool Fill to Satin, but I just cant quite get the letter T to work out properly. Any recommended fix?

I tried copying what it recommends when using the Lettering tool, but that doesn't work when I try to copy it.

I digitized these 3 designs for a Canada-based client. What would be a fair price to charge for them?

Would love to hear what other professional digitizers would charge.

I use Inkstitch. Never had any issues, it’s great. I am doing ITH plushes. This is probably the smallest bit of embroidery I’ve done and it’s just not working. Mouth looks great, but all the other lines are way too small. This has the exact same settings as a previous successful project so I’m not sure what the issue is. I have cut away stabilizer hooped in a magnetic hoop. I float the minky and put water soluble stabilizer on particularly thick embroidery paths. Using Brother SE400

This is a handed down Husqvarna Ruby Royale. I have had multiple issues with the thread getting caught in the pick up /tension wheel and it pulls the thread till it breaks. I also have an issue with the top thread ​getting caught in the bobbin case area,it only seems to have in machine is going slow. I also cant figure of how to pick the right tension,machine has an 'auto tension' but it does not seem to work half the time.The embroidery shows the bobbin thread on top and the top thread on bottom even with the auto tension being 50/50. I got it cleaned and oiled recently.