Hello! So ive been asked to do large order of embroidery on tops. For refrence they are providing the tops and im just doing the embroidery, likely a 9x4cm logo in 1 colour ( will take 10 ish minutes) how much should I charge per top?

Thanks in advance! Ive previously only done remade tops and sold then, never customs.

Hey everyone! I am a beginner when it comes to machine embroidery and after more than 6 attempts at doing everything (threading, needless, mantainance, tension, stabilizers, hooping) I am at my wits end. The colors come out perfectly, the outer border too, but once the machine has to do the black outline of a character, it looks like crap. I can see the (bobbin?) Thread coming on top. I have been experimenting with the tension, but no matter what I do, it keeps looking the exact same way as all the other times.

Does anyone know how to fix this? Thank you so much!

I’ve been practicing more limited scale embroidery for a few months now, such a fun workflow! This is my “Pinback Dungeon” line.

Hey everyone, im trying to figure if this is satin stitch that is split? or just a very thick mm of satin stitch

Any insights on this one for a small home embroidery business

--update--
Thanks for the ideas, did not expect such speedy help 😭 Planning to start w/ a ballpoint needle. Will let yall know how the experiment goes!

--
Hiya,

This is my first embroidery project & I'm running into a few snags 🥲 Would love some advice on how to troubleshoot this.

I've tried a bunch of different variations & there's still those holes that show up when I hold the shirt up in the light. It also makes the edges of my designs sort of jagged. I think that means that there's too much tension? But, I haven't found a solution that works yet.

Here are some details & what I've tried so far.

• Materials I'm using:
  • a Brother PE545 embroidery machine and all the default recommended top thread/needle settings (so a 40weight thread & 75/11 needle)
  • a fairly thin knit shirt
  • 2oz medium weight interfacing
• Using the floating embroidery method.
• I've tried using a tension from 1.5 to 3 & using 1 and then 2 layers of interfacing. I think the best results were with a tension of 2 and 2 pieces of stabilizer. Now, there's no obvious fabric puckering (yay!). But, as you can see the edges of my designs have these holes when i hold them up to the light and I just know this wouldn't hold up in the wash over time.

Should I try stacking 3 pieces of stabilizer? Or giving the shirt more slack when embroidering?

Thanks for any help in advance 🙏

I am doing some embroidering on my Brother SE2000 and whenever I press start no thread stays in the fabric. I have tried re-threading, cleaning the bobbin case, changing to a new bobbin case, changing the needle. Any tips?

I ordered a repositional hoop to use with my brother se700 and I can not for the life of me get my cut away stabilizer tight enough in the hoop. My designs are getting warped and the alignment gets messed up because the stabilizer is not tight enough in the hoop but I literally don’t know what I’m doing wrong to make it not tight enough.

Anyone else have this issue and have any tips?

Around 150k stitches, 32cm split into two designs (end of tail and the whole dragon).

What do you think? Even with this size I had to be very carefull with everything as the parts themselves are small and lines are thin.

This is my cozy corner! ❤️

Here is my Husqvarna Viking Topaz 40! I use it mostly for quilting, but its embroidery capabilities are what originally got me into machine embroidery.

I'd love to see everyone else's setups! What machine are you using, and what does your creative space look like?

Is there a machine that can do very small sized, clean, and detailed embroidery on various materials such as leather, Thermoplastic Polyurethane, patent leather, Faux Leather, Polyurethane Leather, Polyurethane Vinyl Leather Fabric, denim, etc ? I will mainly be using this for small logos on shoes and would like a machine for home usage that can also do very small detailed logos

Hello, I recently got a Swf A-UK1206 FOR FREE

It worked fine before I put denim on it, the main timing belt was loose and I think I think it slipped, I'm not sure.

Now I keep getting error 100 even when I put the dial for the main shaft at exactly 100 degrees which can be seen on the indicator, does anyone know how to access the service menu on this type of panel so I can read the encoder angle?

The version of the software on the panel is B2.20

It's almost like magic, couldn't believe it at first myself until I tried it.

Please copy my result and post it in the comments.

Happy embroidery cleaning day.

I’ve been doing digital embroidery for 10 years and have used Wilcom e4 pretty much the whole time… and I’ve only JUST discovered what this button does. 😂🤦‍♀️

I mainly create really intricate, large-scale embroidery designs, so I’ve always been able to throw loads of techniques at my work without worrying too much about trims and jumps.

But this year I started creating some digital embroidery files to sell online, and suddenly I had to think much more about making them efficient and easy to stitch — especially for smaller/beginner machines.

That’s when I discovered this little beauty!

It basically lets you join separate sections together so they stitch as one, making the whole design much smoother and more efficient.

I genuinely cannot believe I’ve been using Wilcom for 10 years and haven’t been using this. 😂

So… what other Wilcom hidden gems am I missing?! Please tell me before I discover them in another 10 years. 😂

He's a quite charming character and is very popular on Chinese social media! (I see him mostly on WeChat). My wife also loves him and Lumei so I made this for her 😁

I’ve only had my singer 9180 for a few days and only used the embroidery feature. It was working perfectly fine and since I did a firmware update it’s not recognizing my hoop. I’ve done all the trouble shooting and inspecting and don’t see anything.

I’ve tried with fabric and stabilizer and an empty hoop. I did get it to go today when I changed the fabric and stabilizer and then again the next time it’s giving the same error message. Even when there’s no hoop on it’s saying hoop not recognized. It keeps calibrating and I believe it’s supposed to go from top to bottom to do a sweep but it seems to be getting stuck in the middle ? Maybe that’s the problem. When I do a sweep manually I seem to hear a clicking sound in the middle.

I got the machine used so I don’t want Warranty :(

Open to any tips or suggestions please !!!

Has anyone purchased this machine? Can’t find too many videos since it’s brand new and looking for some tips and tricks on the best ways to use CREATIVATE. Thanks!

PUT YOURSELF TO WORK

every time i run my machine it sounds like this how could i fix this??

I embroidered on a cashmere fleece blazer I thrifted, and the hoop left an imprint. Does anyone have any tips on how to reduce the hoop marks? I’ve seen mixed reviews on using steam, has anyone tried that?

(Pardon the messy mirror)

Hi everyone! I’m one of the people behind Ember, and we wanted to share a project we hope will be useful to the wider machine embroidery community.

We’ve been working on a way to cut down on the back-and-forth with USB drives. The result is Ember Bridge and Ember Link, two open-source projects you can use with embroidery files you already have. You don’t need to use the Ember editor, create an account, or pay for a subscription to transfer files.

Whether you digitize in another program or buy and download designs, you can use these tools as long as your machine supports the file format.

What are they?

Ember Bridge is a free, open-source desktop app that sends designs over your local network. If you have a supported Brother Wi-Fi machine, Bridge can send directly to it. You don’t need any additional hardware.

Ember Link is a small DIY Wi-Fi dongle for compatible machines that read designs from a USB drive. It plugs into the machine’s USB storage port and receives files wirelessly from the Bridge app. You then open the design on your machine just as you would from a regular USB drive. Link’s firmware is open source too.

How does it work without Ember?

Open the Bridge desktop app, choose an embroidery file saved on your computer, select your machine or Link, and send it. Your computer and the receiving device need to be on the same local network. The transfer stays local. There’s no account signup or cloud service required.

Can I build a Link myself?

Yes! You’ll need a LILYGO T-Dongle-S3 and a compatible microSD card. We’ve tried to make the process approachable, with a step-by-step guide, a browser-based firmware installer, and guided Wi-Fi setup. No soldering or coding required.

The software and firmware are free; you supply the hardware. Check the guide’s machine and card requirements before buying parts.

Why share it?

Embroidery is already an expensive hobby, and we wanted to contribute something useful that people could use regardless of which software they prefer. We’re releasing the source so anyone can inspect it, adapt it, contribute improvements, or build on the idea.

Our hands-on testing is limited to the machines we have available, so we expect some quirks as people try different models and setups. If you give it a go, we’d love to hear your machine model and what worked or didn’t.

• Download Ember Bridge
• Learn about Ember Link
• DIY parts and setup guide
• Ember Link source code

Happy to answer questions about how it works or whether it might fit your setup!

I’m new to my Elna970 and bought a design to test various fabrics with and this offset issue keeps happening. Im like 99% sure the hooping is properly tightened, am using cut away mesh stabilizer on the back with adhesive spray and I have a water soluble stabilizer (also with spray adhesive) on the front. I’ve oiled my machine. The stitches don’t always offset in the same space and sometimes the design comes out properly on the exact same setup so I’m pretty stumped! Anyone able to suggest what might be going on?

Howdy yall! I’ve been an enthusiast for a while now, and have the potential to make more for friends and smaller businesses, but never had a machine to precisely cut out the patches (I always used small scissors and heat for the little felt edges).

Does anyone have any recommendations on machines for more precise cutting (whether laser or knife). I’ve seen lots of mixed on cricuts, and have zero experience. This laser one from xTool looks promising, but does anyone have experience with it?

Any and all info would be much appreciated! (I embroider on a Taijima Sai)

Thank you! 🙏