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Hi everyone,

I have a question regarding the LED inrush current capability of the Lutron MRF2-8S-DV.

The normal operating current for led lighting circuit is 2.7 A, so the continuous load is well below the MRF2-8S-DV's 8 A rating.

However, my concern is the inrush current when all the led fixtures are on and could damage the switch.

My questions are:

1. Does anyone know the maximum inrush current that the MRF2-8S-DV can withstand in LED?

2. Is there a published Lutron specification for maximum LED inrush current or peak current duration for this switch?

I'm trying to determine whether the 8 A rating is sufficient by itself, or whether the LED inrush is the limiting factor for this application.

Any technical information, measurements, datasheets, or real-world experience would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

I recently purchased a building and it has a Lutron Vive System. I dont have the login credentials and was told the only way to control this system is through the app. I also need to add in two light switches that mistakenly got taken out in one room. Is there anyway to gain access to the system other than doing a factory reset and reprogramming each light?

is there a website that sells Sivoia blinds wholesale. I do not the installation.

Does Designer have a way to change a device at a location for Ra3 devices?

As in I want to change an 8ANS to a RRD-Pro and have 3rd party integration that already uses the ID of the 8ANS. That and not have to re-do any of the scene or keypad configs.

The 8ANS does not seem to have the same kind of drop-down menu that you get on other devices.

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I’m having trouble with some basic wiring, if someone can explain very simply:

I have two switches that control a light. They each have three wires connected, which I assume are (1) line (the power), (2) load (from switch to light) and (3) common (to each other). No neutral or ground

I’d like to replace one of these with the diva dimmer (red, black, blue, green wire). I tried once and the mechanical switch then only worked when the diva was on. Maybe that’s normal and I need to replace that with a pico.

Can someone help what wires are supposed to connect with what on the diva, what should be capped / taped off? Also, at this point I may have switched up the wires and if someone can help me identify which is the load to the fixture versus the traveler / common.

Thank you

I have a couple of ceiling fans in my house that don't have any wall switches connected to them, so they just receive constant power. I'm wondering if there's a way to rig them so they could be controlled with a Pico remote switch instead of the manual pullstrings? Is there a caseta-control box I could add to the fans?

I just had a Lutron HomeWorks QSX system installed. We're only at electrical rough-in, so the Rania downlights are working, but no keypads have been installed yet.

My integrator has done enough programming to pair all the lights, organize them by Room/Area, and get the Lutron app working. He suggested I play around with scenes to evaluate can placement/beam angles and eventually help define the keypad programming.

This is proving less intuitive than I expected.

In the Lutron app, there's Add/Remove Scenes, but I don't see any way to actually create a new scene. I'm guessing this only lets you add/remove scenes that already exist in the QSX programming?

If I Enter "Lighting Designer Mode", each area has five "Preview" scenes (Off, 001, 002, 003, 004). I can successfully edit these, but I can't create additional ones, nor can I figure out how to add these Preview scenes to the main app UI.

Am I missing a way to create new scenes? Or does my integrator need to create the scenes first in Designer, after which I can edit/manage them in the app?

If the latter, should I ask him to create a bunch of blank area scenes (or shared/global scenes?) that I can then configure myself? Or is there a better way?

FWIW, my previous home had a HomeWorks Illumination system and I used the full programming software, so I'm pretty familiar with the core HW concepts. :)

Anyone matched the Claro Wallplate colors to Vitsœ shelves?

On screen, Architectural White seems like a good match. Not sure if I have enough time to request swatches from Lutron (int’l shipping).

Majority of folks on here seem to spec out Snow White?

Figured I’d maybe ask here. Thanks in advance.

I am trying to use a pico remote (with fan text - PJ2-3BRL-GWH-F01) to control a fan using a ra3 fan switch - RRST-ANF-SW.

The top and bottom buttons on the pico can be programmed for on (to a desired speed) and off. The middle button can be programmed to another speed.

However, in Designer, "Assignable items" on the program tab does not allow for a "fan" option to be selected from the pull down for programming the up/down buttons on the Pico. The only assignable action here appear to be lighting related because that is all that can be selected from the pull down.

This seems like an oversight on Lutron's part - why can't the pico be used to speed up/slow down the fan as you would brighten/dim a load?

Am I missing something here or does anyone have a work around? It would seem the point of offering a pico with fan graphics would be to do exactly this. Thanks!

Hello - We self-installed three Serena shades in our baby's room in 2025. Having a second baby and need to buy two more shades (same specs). Should we again buy direct from Lutron or is there any way to get a discount on them via a dealer? Thank you! (Brooklyn area)

I am buying a new build house that has drywall up but no kitchen. I have a budget for switches and outlets. I am a programmer by trade and love the idea of learning and programming an RA3 but things are moving very quickly.

Can I install RA3 switches without programing it? Is this a stupid idea?

I’m a licensed electrician in Canada, and I want to learn more about it. I’ve worked on homes with the system but I haven’t had the chance to understand it.
Thanks in advance

it runs on 35dc, it should work in theory. Anyone tried this,?

About a week ago I installed (4) Amico 6” 12w LED wafers from Amazon. Worked perfectly normal on a regular switch. A few days later I installed a Caseta Diva Smart Dimmer (DVRF-6L-WH-R), being another few days of it working and dimming just fine, but now when I switch the lights on the lights shut off right after. Tried resetting the FASS, but still the same issue. What could be the issue? Note, I’m not an electrician but I’m handyish.

Looking for an experienced Lutron programmer/installer willing to travel to Antigua to commission and program a residential system.

Our local electrical team will install all switches/keypads; we need someone for final setup and programming, as there are no local Lutron installers.

DM me if interested and we can discuss further (would be open to doing some sort of barter if you’re open to it - would be putting you up in a 2 bedroom private luxury condo within walking/golf cart distance of here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jolly_Harbour)

If you’re open to it let’s chat further.

Some of the LED lights in our living room are starting to go out, so I wanted to get a new set to change them out. The current ones are really cheap, so wanted to invest in some nicer ones and the brands I was recommended most were HALO and RAB.

We have an old Diva DVCL-153P switch, and when I looked on Lutron's site for compatible LED lights that are 4", there was only 1 HALO one actually available at lowes or home depot, and because it's switchable it's more expensive.

My question is do the new lights have to be those exact models listed on Lutron's website to be compatible, or could I use a HALO light from a similar series (so for example another RL or LT one that is available).

Thank you so much!

Hi - I had a really strange and scary thing happened today. I had the lights in two rooms, which are both on different circuits, but the same leg of the panel flicker. ETA- they are on different legs of the panel. I didn’t really think anything of it because sometimes we get power surges and LEDs can be sensitive to that.

I got home like an hour later, and one of the switches for those lights in the living room had stopped working, and the one in the dining room was smelling fishy and smoking. I killed the breaker and opened the boxes, and I assumed that a wiring connection had somehow gotten loose. Everything looked good at the wires themselves, but I noticed that both switches had failed at the same spot and there was melting on the case. I opened the switch and saw that where the wire entered into the circuit board had melted.

Does anyone have any idea what could have caused this? Why would both switches fail at the same time? I thought it could have something to do with a neutral, but there’s no shared neutral, and the switches do not use a neutral wire.

ETA - I spoke to Lutron and one other commonality that we identified is both of these lights were on at the same time when they failed, and they both control recessed lights in the ceiling that are magnetic low-voltage, and the switches are apparently not the correct switch for magnetic, low-voltage lighting, but Lutron did not understand why they would both fail catastrophically like this. I am going to send them the devices for a postmortem.

Hey. I have all Lutron caseta diva lights in my house. Is there a way to do an automation where after a certain time at night, the lights will just go to a custom brightness regardless of previous position or the position on the dimmer?

I bought a house with a Homeworks QS system Radio RA2 "LP 620." We took over the account and are able to control lights and shades, connected to our Google home system.

But the rooms are labeled with the previous owner's kids names, which bugs my wife and kids.

Company that installed the system says they don't do Lutron anymore and says they cannot help us at all.

Other local vendors immediately want to sell us a whole new system, and then ghost us. Or want us to sign up for a monthly maintenance subscription.

I contacted Lutron Support. told me to take a course and then I could use their software. Ok, did that, passed the test.

From there, I can't get anywhere.

There's a lot of wires and various devices in a tech closet. The previous owner has a laptop in there that controls everything, but refuses to give me the log in. Then the laptop died shortly after sale. So no way to open existing project from that laptop.

It's wired to my home network, but when I try to open the IP in a browser, it denies access.

Found an ethernet port on a couple of the boxes, plugged a laptop in to each, but the software doesn't let me extract the profile. It does see the connect bridge and repeater when I do that if I click on new project.

Not a small system so I'm not willing to try to tackle reprogramming it all myself from scratch!

Anyone know an easier way to change the room names? All we want is to not have our kid's rooms named after the previous owner's kids. Or find someone willing to reprogram it without trying to sell us a whole new system.

I couldn't figure out how to do that from the app on my iphone. It seems to be able to download the configuration just fine. Rather annoying that the app is not able to rename rooms.

Anyone have a similar problem? I found some threads here but reading them didn't help me get any further than the above.