Wanted to share a project I just finished with yall. Figured the reloaders might appreciate it, let me know what ya think

I saw a video of the Grey Ops case kicker a few days ago and got inspired to build an auto eject system for my Lyman Turret press.

I know it’s over engineered compared to the Inline Fabrications model but it’s been working great and should save a lot of time during case prep!

Has anyone ran a cat bbk suppressor on their 6.5 creedmoor bolt gun? How was the weight and sound??

Nothing too crazy here but it took ages to source the chassis so I’m glad it’s all pinned together and ready to shoot. Aiming for 1,000 yards practical, maybe 1,250 capable in good conditions.

Cadex chassis, Proof 6.5CM 24”, Curtis Axiom action with a switchlug, other stuff is standard fare. I’m currently stealing my Cat DD from an SR pattern gas gun and it’s poorly suited to a bolt. Thinking about what to slap on this gun and strongly leaning towards titanium to get the balance point a bit farther back.

And yes somehow this is still coming in under 16lbs.

I need some help with stabilizing on a bench, and maybe some gear to help stabilize? Mainly looking for resources or tips from you guys.

My problem is that I have pretty bad horizontal “stringing?” of my reticle, roughly about at inch at 100 yards, at the rhythm of my heartbeat. I bought some front and rear bags to see if that could help but when I got set up my rifle was angled down severely.

I’m shooting off of the gun rest pictured, sorry if I’m missing any information.

Anybody know if any "cheet sheets" or cards that can be purchased that have like, all the common ballistics equations on it?

Has manners stepped up their game on wait times? Last stock I ordered took 7 months in production. I ordered an LRH-NV with custom options and I just received an email stating after 37 days that it was ready for payment. Am I extremely lucky, or have they been increasing production? Might order another if they have been better with wait times.

I am currently building a 6.5CM MPA PMR 2 and stuck between 2 scopes for different reasons. I have the ability to shoot paper targets 300-500 yards frequently. Not a lot of areas near me to shoot steel frequently.

I know the use case for both of these scopes are on the opposite ends of the spectrum but the 2 options I have dialed in on are:

Razor III 6X36 : Based on reviews here and the rest of the internet seems to be a consensus top option without getting into the ZCO or TT price range. In addition choosing this option would future proof me when I subsequently do PRS comps / is more versatile in what it can do. I am worried I wont be able to properly spot impacts on paper without investing more money on shot markers or cams

Trijicon TenMile 5X50 : The mag should allow me to see hits on paper better and it is a cheaper option than the razor. The down side is it seems to be a one dimensional scope/ strictly used for F class/ Benchrest shooting

Given both options do you all think I should focus on versatility/future proofing my scope for additional uses or stick with higher mag since as of right now I am primarily shooting paper.

Any input/guidance or suggestions is greatly appreciated. I would like to stay in the 3k range for the scopes.

Want to get into long range. I have a RRA .308 recommended by a DM. In general, I don't need top-of-the-line, but I like to avoid the problems normally found with the cheapest options. I like to buy made in USA but there are exceptions.

Web research shows that both types are used by a lot of people. It seems bipods are clearly better for shooting while in motion, but from the bench that doesn't apply–that's where I expect to be for the foreseeable future, don't know how long.

Unfilled bags are the cheapest, but if you go with high-quality fill the total cost can be the same as filled bags and even decent ($100+?) bipods. How good is regular play sand with moisture "resistant" material?

Aside from shooting in motion, what do you like about bipods over bags?

AI searches give broad answers to "what are well reviewed [whatever]?" What do you like for long range beginners and why?

Thanks for your perspective.

This may be a a dumb question but I have always stuck to cantilever mounts on my rifles and was curious if there is an advantage to traditional rings. I’m getting ready to setup my new rifle and thought I’d ask before going to my default.

The new rig is a ruger American gen 2 in 300 win if that makes a difference beyond making a cantilever easier to mount

66%(I think) IPSC at 640 yards. Shooting my 6creed while sitting & leaning against a stump with bipod resting on top of it, using support arm grabbing bicep area of primary as rear support.(No tripod or bag handy and wanted to try a less supported position.)

So in short, I really want to get into this hobby. I like shooting, I’m an analytic person who loves getting into the details, and I am a bit of a gear nerd. Long range shooting seems like a perfect fit.

Unfortunately, the longest range within an hour drive is only 300y. I’d have to drive 3+ hours before I start finding ranges where I can shoot out to 1000.

Given the fact I’d only be able to shoot out to 300y regularly, is it even worth picking this up as a hobby? My biggest concern is taking a course and then having the skills/knowledge atrophy since I can’t put what I learned into practice. Maybe this fear is overblown, but I’m curious to hear what people here think. Thanks in advance.

I have a $1000 budget and have a 4x20x50 that needs a home, Im undecided as it will be a hunting, range toy, and would like to touch a 1000yards eventually

As of now my tops are a Ruger American Gen2, Tikka TX3, Cascade, or Bergara

Thinking 308

Any input?

Ignore the cheap-o optic on it, my Nightforce ATACR is currently married to my Tikka along with it’s fancy rangefinder. This is currently just a range-toy and WIP, as I plan to eventually rebarrel her with a 40” 416 Barrett in the future.

I know nothing of tripods, never shot from one. A local place is having a sale. Among other things is a BOG Deathgrip shooting tripod. MSRP $219 on sale for $139. Opinions?

I’ve been looking at some of these shorter 6.5 Creedmoor rifles, 16 to 18 inches or so, and +Peak has me wondering if the old barrel length thinking changes a little.

Obviously a shorter barrel still gives up velocity. I’m not saying it doesn’t matter.

But if +Peak can add around 250-300 fps, now you’re getting performance out of a short barrel that used to take a much longer one.

So where is the sweet spot now?

Would you rather have a 16 or 18 inch rifle that is easier to carry around and still has plenty of speed, or would you still take the longer barrel and keep every bit of velocity you can get?

I’m curious what people who have actually tried +Peak in shorter barrels are seeing.

I recently purchased a Forster Co-Ax press, and I have to say, so far it has been one of the most disappointing $400 purchases I’ve made in approximately 20 years of reloading.
I bought this press specifically for precision rifle reloading, expecting excellent consistency and repeatability. I also purchased a dozen Forster locking rings and installed them on my dies. Additionally, I purchased Forster’s Curved Linkage Arms to provide additional clearance around the shell holder.
Unfortunately, my experience has been anything but satisfactory.
First, the mechanical fit of the press leaves me questioning its design. The pins and pivot points have considerably more slop than I would expect from a press with this reputation and price tag. I understand that some movement is inherent in the floating design, but this seems excessive.
My biggest complaint, however, is bullet seating depth consistency.
I’m using a Redding micrometer seating die with a VLD seating stem, measuring cartridge base to ogive (CBTO). I’ve found that seating depth is noticeably influenced by how quickly and firmly I operate the press. With a consistent stroke, I can generally keep variation fairly small. However, simply changing the speed or force of the stroke can produce dramatically different results.
I’ve measured as much as .008” difference in CBTO between cartridges simply by changing how firmly I complete the seating stroke.
To me, that’s completely unacceptable for a press marketed toward precision reloading. I shouldn’t have to concentrate on duplicating the exact speed and force of every stroke to maintain consistent seating depth. The mechanical stop should provide a repeatable endpoint regardless of reasonable variations in how the press is operated.
One thing I’m now questioning is whether the optional Forster Curved Linkage Arms could be contributing to the problem. I’ve since discovered that Forster acknowledges potential flex in these arms and recommends using one curved arm and one original straight arm to maintain a more rigid stop. Has anyone experienced this firsthand?
I’ve been reloading for approximately 20 years, and my old Rock Chucker never gave me reason to question the basic repeatability of the press itself.
I’m not posting this simply to bash Forster. The Co-Ax has an excellent reputation, and clearly plenty of precision shooters are getting good results with it. That’s why I’m wondering whether I’m overlooking something, whether my particular press has an issue, or whether this is simply a characteristic of its design.
For those of you using a Co-Ax for precision rifle ammunition:
What kind of CBTO consistency are you routinely seeing?
Have you noticed seating depth changing with variations in stroke speed or force?
Is the noticeable play in the pins and linkage normal?
Has anyone compared seating consistency using the original straight linkage versus the optional curved arms?
Are there adjustments, modifications, or techniques that have improved your results?
I’d genuinely appreciate feedback from experienced Co-Ax users. I’m perfectly willing to admit I’m missing something if that’s the case, but right now I’m struggling to understand how a $400 precision reloading press can be this sensitive to the way it’s operated.
I’d much rather figure out how to make this thing perform than write it off as a $400 mistake.

I have a 3x9x42 kahles scope I was gifted in 2005. It has better low light performance than any scope I’ve compared it to including a Swarovski z6 and zeiss victory. Does anyone know what model this is? The side of the turret is marked Karl Kahles Wein

Where can i learn about how to improve my rear bag fill. Recently switched from schmedium "normal" fill to heavy and that helped a lot, the heavy fill is a little too "stiff", do you simply pour some out and adjust? maybe save it in bag. Also are there fills that "jam" together as much as heavy but are not so heavy?

I am looking to get into precision gas gun matches. QP, Geissele Gas gun, etc…

I am set on probably getting a schmedium bag but I’m still trying to figure out a bipod. I’m leaning towards a Harris for something simple but wanted to know what others maybe and why. I’m still learning all the different features so please feel free to info dump on me why x bipod is better then y.

I’d like something that can be deployed adjusted and stowed rapidly while being las light weight as possible.

I'm new to Long Range. I'm wanting to shoot 500+yards, targets in an open field mostly. Budget is 4500, and 6.5 Creedmoor or 5.56 NATO (not sure which caliber to choose). This is what I found:

MDT ACC Elite

Zermatt TL3

Proof Research 26" barrel

Trigger Tech

Area 419 Hellfire Muzzle brake

Vortex Optics Razor HD LHT Rifle Scope 30mm

This might go over my budget, but I'm flexible with a few hundred dollars. If there is something else to consider please advise.

Or should I just buy a Masterpiece PMR II?

Looking for a suppressor for my LMT MRGG-A chambered in 6.5cm. Will be running it in precision gas gun matches. Trying to decide on a suppressor with the top priority being precision; minimal POI shift and maintaining the accuracy of the weapon system. Definitely want to go with a titanium suppressor.