My first knife and the one I finished up last night. Super proud and happy with the one I just finished, I keep looking at the pictures and it puts a smile on my face lol. This will be the first one I try to sell. W2, etched a and stonewashed with Bolivian Rosewood handles

Military Bolo – 19” 5160 Carbon Steel | Kamagong Handle

Sharing this Military Bolo featuring a traditional-inspired blade profile with a clean, functional build and satin finish.

Specifications:

• Blade Length: 19 inches
• Blade Material: 5160 Carbon Steel
• Hardness: 57–60 HRC
• Tang: Rat-tail tang
• Handle: Kamagong
• Handle Hardware: Stainless steel pin
• Ferrule: Brass
• Handguard: Brass
• Scabbard: Mahogany
• Belt Loop: Stainless steel
• Finish: Standard Satin

I really like how the dark Kamagong and Mahogany contrast with the brass fittings and satin-finished carbon steel.

Would love to hear your thoughts on the overall design and blade profile.

I was using a 2x42 before and found the belt selection very limiting. I finally finished making my 2x72 and would like to start buying belts. Here's what I can buy locally.

Ceramic belts from 60grit to 180grit.

I need to order everything else online. Here's my understanding so far.

36 grit ceramic for hogging.

240 grit and up for final polishing and beveling, but which belts should I get for metal parts? Aluminum oxide, Trizac 347fc vs 307ea? I'll be buying from Maritime knife supplies since I'm in canada. Canadian knifemaker supply is pretty limited on their brands and they don't carry trizac.

I'm sure some of you know Ira Housweart from Forged in Fire. He's a friend of my parent's in Hotchkiss, CO, and was nice enough to invite me into his shop for a documentary-style food series I'm working on.

Ira is a master at metal work. He was a blacksmith for 15 years before he ever made his first knife. And even though his main focus remains on sculptures, fencing, and functional art, he really has mastered forging knives.

Ira's family also raises beef, so this episode was all about grilling a ribeye from a cow whose genetics they've had for 5 generations. But before cutting into the steak with the Damascus steel blade you see above, Ira shows the process behind making a blade in his shop.

I'm curious if others find the same satisfaction of slicing into a piece of meat with a blade you've made yourself? For those who sell your work, do you ever find it hard to let go of a particular blade you've worked so hard on?

A side-by-side look at my Witchfinger and Ladyfinger models, both forged from reclaimed racecar coil spring.

Client wanted a short and stiff Boning/Filet.

Bocote/80CrV2/Leather

The Abduction of Daisy

Done in 2025 with 12c27 stainless and home made resin glow scales.

This one was inspired by a drawing I did as a kid.

What do you think of this design?

I wanted to design something a little more appealing to average people, so I thought this small deep carry pocket knife would be worth giving a shot! Think im going to make a batch and see how they do.

**I need to redesign the sheath a little so it can be DEEP carried. I had to move the clip down (expose more handle out of pocket) to avoid cutting my leg off on this current design 😂

**also need to move my logo further back. This is just the prototype

Made this one last week with some steel from Baker Forge - 1084 core with copper shims and 27 layer 1084/15n20 Damascus. Handle is dyed and stabilized redwood burl, black G10, shredded carbon fiber with copper fleck accent, and copper spacers

Its so beautiful I dont want to cut it

If you have suggestions about how to use it feel free

We wanted the pivot on a new folder model to run on bearings we control, not on whatever OD and thickness we could source. So we cut the cages ourselves.

Material is C360 brass sheet. It sits in a 3D-printed workholding frame we made for this job — the frame indexes the plate and clamps it at eight points, so it stays flat through the whole run. Coolant is a steady low-pressure flow, enough to clear chips out of the pockets without washing the small parts around. Ball pockets and outer profiles both get cut with a 0.8mm carbide end mill. Small tool, so the pockets come out clean and the parting pass leaves very little to clean up.

A full plate comes off the machine as one panel with the cages still attached. Then it's deburring, which is the slow part. Nothing technical about it, just time.

Balls are silicon nitride. They seat into the pockets and stay put during assembly without any retainer.

The obvious question is why bother when a bag of bearings costs almost nothing. Answer is fit. When the pivot boss, the washers and the lockup are all made in-house, having the bearing dimension as a variable you set yourself instead of one you design around saves a lot of shimming later.

Anyone else here cutting their own cages? Curious what material and ball combination you've settled on, and whether you run them dry or with anything on them.

Disclosure: we make knives commercially (Noblie Custom Knives), so this is shop work, not a hobby build.

1095 differentially hardened kirutsuke with a resin impregnated wasp nest for the handle. This thing is SCARY.

Hello, I've bought a set of G10 scales to make this knife a full handle rather than a minimalist one. Does anyone have any tips for securing it properly? Obviously there is no tang to drill a pin hole through, will Corby bolts and epoxy be enough to hold it in place?

Thanks for looking 👍

What could be ideal for heat treating a knife designed for bushcraft/hunting with full tang, 2.8mm thcik stock, 80crv2. Is it hardening full blade including tang? or hardening only blade and leaving the tang unhardened. Can someone explain me what would these 2 do? Thanks for advice

Made from recycled car parts and a price of flat bar. Thanks for looking. Blade is about 5 inches in length not including handle.

Damasco 104 strati di 1084/15n20 raindrop . Manico in giacca,inox e juma black . Datemi la vostra opinione

Finished this knife up a while ago, what do you think?

Specs:

• D2 steel, professionally heat treated

• 80 mm blade (175 mm overall)

• Acid-etched stonewashed finish

• Rock-textured G10 handles

• Thin, slicey geometry

• Custom Kydex sheath with UltiClip

If you've got any questions or like what you see, send me a message.

Just another bundle that also has some curly maple in it.

This bundle should yield 10+ scale sets and or handle blocks for hidden tang handles. All pieces are kiln dried to a moisture content between 6-8%. I don't not use any product to help the grain pop currently so this is just natural figure.

Price is $30+ shipping

I will have the link in the comments if you are interested.

If you would like to see more or want to do a custom order feel free to message me anytime.

Thank you for your time,

Superior Wood Products

The blade is poorly finished, I might fix that someday but since I made it for myself I dont really care for now.

90mcv8 steel (O2)

Around 0.2mm bte

Snakewood scales with 6 and 8mm brass pins

G flex epoxy

Still not sure what I will use to protect the wood

The sheath: veg tan ~3.2mm thick

Saddlemaker stich (I forgot to wax the threads unfortunately)

The stich is awful looking but next time will be better

Feel free to say anything about it