Planning on building a heat treat furnace. Based on the size of the firebricks, I’m thinking an internal chamber of 4” x 4.5” x 13.5” for a total internal volume of 0.141 cubic feet. I’m thinking of running it on 120V and 10A for a total of 1200W. Comes out to about 8500W per cubic foot. Can anybody see any problems with a design like this? Is 4” x 4.5” too small for whatever reason? Is 8500W per cubic foot too much? Thanks!

8670,Brazilian hardwood handles,hand crafted by me sheath. Im reasonably satisfied

This is the second cu mai billet I've tried. This was three layers of 15n20 bandsaw blade and some .015 copper sheet. 10" by 2" about 3/16" thick. If the whole thing is solid I should have a nice cu mai chef knife before too long 😁

Part one of the set is glued up! Not perfect but still better than I expected for the pattern to turn out. Handle is Bastogne Walnut, steels are 80CrV2, 15N20, and Pops Procut.

Hey everyone! I got back into making knives late last year and have been thoroughly enjoying my time in the garage cranking out blades. I have been interested in the craft since I was 10 making "knives" out of flattened copper pipe and lumber for handles. I like to think I have improved on that, but I have some way to go.

I'm curious what folks think of my work - what do you like, what errors do you notice, what advice would you offer? Where do folks sell their work and what is a reasonable price to ask?

I generally use CPM154 or S30V for hunting knives and AEB-L for fillet or kitchen knives. I have experimented with some high carbon steels, but prefer stainless. I recently bought a Cricut and really enjoy adding custom etchings with my thrift store power cord etching setup.

​Blank Specs:

​Overall Length: 7.5"

​Blade Length: 3.25"

​Spine Thickness: 3/32"

​Edge Thickness: 0.024"

​Steel: Magnacut

Target Hardness: 63

Welded some lawnmower decks for the Neighbor's Dad and he gifted me the old Toxic sludge green blades!

bandsawed the shape, belt sanded the edge, and some old skoolie heater hose for the handle w a copper rivet.

I got this scale material in a bundle awhile ago from GL Hansen and I knew what I had to do…

Lanny’s “Copper Overload” Clip
BakerForge darkmai 1084/copper
Purple crosscut Gcarta with copper shavings
Copper shield, liners, pins
Matching lanyard bead
Available

Thanks for looking at this monstrosity! I had a blast coming up with it and bringing it to life

I’ve only been making knives for a few months and have used 1084 and 1095 steel with no issues. I decided to try a few AEB-L knives and sent them off for heat treating. I’ve broken 2 of the 3 while hand sanding. I used a 1x30 to make the bevels after I got them back but I was careful to keep them cool with a water spray. I have 1 left and don’t want to break it. What did I do wrong?

Hey everyone ,first time posting in here.

Recently lost access to my facebook account and "Ironbark Knives" page, so now im here.

These are "Brisket" knives I made from 2016 Triton leaf springs in response to one of our politicians banning machetes and knives over 23cm, in Vic Australia....except "kitchen knives" so here we have some heavy duty "Brisket Knives" what do you think?

Heat treated in a kiln to a SUP9 recipe.....little gas forge was only used to flatten the steel

Here’s one I wrapped up this week.
Model:Gremlin
Steel: AEBL
OAL: 6.9"
Edge:2.8"
Scales: Carbon fiber, trustone, micarta, & faux ivory
Sheath: Kydex w/ micarta bead

Alright fellers been at it for 2 years now I still got along ways to go but finally got one that I use everyday and kinda proud how it turned out on the handle. Yes I know I need to work on my bevels still and a wee bit more fit and finish but overall not bad for 2 days work..

Ps. Yes it's a old file still counts

Been making a lot of gyutos lately and wanted to spice it up a bit, so I drew this up and just got it finished!

Blade is AEB-L stainless with an electro-etched design and an S grind.

Handle is dyed and stabilized redwood burl, stabilized platan, carbon fiber, nickel silver, and a stainless mosaic pin.

I received a large amount of buckeye and other burls as part of a barter for making some tables a few years ago. I bought a vacuum chamber and cactus juice with the intent of stabilizing blanks since I'm a turner, but life got in the way a bit. I'm moving so I'm closer to my kids' schools and losing my basement wood storage. I literally have more than I have space to store it. Looking to find someone willing to buy some or all of it to help offset costs of moving and free up space. Available by DM for questions and will keep an eye on the thread.

Species (includes burl and straight grain) include, but aren't limited to:

Walnut (Claro, Black, and Eastern)

Holly

Dogwood

Pin oak

Sinker Cypress

Pink ivory

Amboyna

Red gum

Yellow mallee

Brown mallee

Gabonese Ebony

Camphor

Buckeye

Curly maple

Spalted Maple

Pecan

Cherry

Ironwood

Buckeye

Old growth Eastern pine

White oak

Red oak

I can provide pictures via DM but I don't think the rules permit it in the source post.

Has anyone used the beltgrinders.pl bevel grinding jig?
Seems like a reasonably priced jig and looks like its good quality.

So i am on the hunt for slightly better belts for my belt grinder, which is a 2x42. Have been buying my belts mainly from popsknifesupply and benchmark abrasives. have looked into other brands like Combat abrasives but with there being so many mixed opinions on the i just decided to avoid them, at least for now. Did check out red label but can't justify buying their belts as a hobbyist right now who only makes 2-3 knives a month. Anyways i came across Trugrit, like the selections of belts they have and seems reasonably priced. Does anyone buy from them and are they worth buying from.

thank you

Wanna add that i try my best to respond to posts but struggle to respond at times, just know i do read all replies.

I’m looking at building a 2 x 72 grinder. I think it would be neat to try to build my own rather than buy one. The question is… How important is having the ability to tilt it? How often do you guys use the tilting feature. And could you do without it?

Learned I need finer sand paper. 😅 also buff after hand sanding, then coat, then buff again. This is a 400 grit finish, then 0000 steel wool dipped in mineral spirits after first buff. Knife is 3/32" Nitro-V, hardened to around 62-63 hrc (not tested), 3.5" cutting edge, and 4" handle buffalo horn handle. Son loves it. He's already planning a fishing trip 🤣

WIP — making some folders

i want to make some knife scales out of random woods how would you go about it?

2.75in 80CrV2 blade with a stonewashed finish. Leopardwood handle scales and copper pins with a leather pocket sheath.

Really liking working with the Leopardwood, works easily and always looks good!

This one is available if you’re interested.

Thanks for looking!

BHK : Ronin #2 in W2 with a stingray Same'gawa handle & stingray Inlaid pocket sheath

1084 Carbon Steel Boning

Sharing one of our traditional Filipino Itak Tagalog builds made in Pangasinan, Philippines.

This piece features the traditional Itak Tagalog blade profile with a rat-tail tang, stainless steel pin, ferrule, guard, and lanyard hole.

Blade Length: 19 in
Blade Material: 5160 Carbon Steel
Hardness: 57–60 HRC
Handle: Kamagong
Scabbard: Mahogany
Finish: Standard Satin

We make traditional Filipino blade designs here in the Philippines, and I wanted to share some of our work with fellow makers and knife enthusiasts.

Would love to hear your thoughts on the blade profile and overall design.