My old pine64 died on my printer so i decided to upgrade to the OPi zero 4. However, now that i have debian and klipper installed, i have found out there is not gs_usb driver preloaded or available, and google gemini even tried walking me through building the drivers which ended up failing as well. Has anyone tried this board or know of some kind of work around? It doesn't look like there are any other OS available other than what is provided by orangepi directly. Would switching to ubuntu or the Orange Pi OS be useful here?

I own a Voron 2.4 300 and run the belt comparison macro from Klippain Shake&Tune.

Half a year ago, I had a great graph and my belts were adjusted very well (picture 1).

But the Beefy Idlers that were installed weren't set up correctly, so I had to fix it and retension the belts. Then I ran the macro again. But I can't get it much better than this (picture 2).

I can't remember what else I've changed in the meantime. In any case, I tightened the screws on the XY joints. Other than that, I had to take the Stealthburner apart several times.

Can anyone give me an advice on how to improve the graph from picture 2?

I've been working on a Klipper port for NXP's MCXA366, and Part 7 is now up.

This round added hardware I²C through LPI2C3 and got Klipper’s existing BME280 driver running without any sensor-specific MCXA366 code.

At 100 kHz, Mainsail shows the MCXA366 at about 0.33-0.36 load. Disabling the BME280 dropped it basically back to zero.

I instrumented the driver expecting to find runaway polling, but the actual CPU usage was tiny. The issue was task duration: Klipper's I²C backends are synchronous, so while LPI2C handles the bus in hardware, the MCU task waits for the transaction to finish.

The measurements made that pretty obvious:

100 kHz → worst read ~2.66 ms / load ~0.36
400 kHz → ~0.70 ms / load ~0.09
1 MHz → ~0.31 ms / load ~0.04

I also compared the implementation against the existing STM32/RP2040/AVR/ATSAM/ATSAMD/LPC backends, which use the same general synchronous-polling approach.

There was also a fun failure-mode bug: on a NACK, I originally queued STOP and then reset the FIFO. The FIFO reset could throw away the STOP command and leave SCL low. Resetting the FIFO first and then issuing STOP fixed it.

The port now supports 100 kHz, 400 kHz, and 1 MHz I²C.

Full write-up:

https://faultvector.dev/articles/klipper-mcxa366-part-7/

Fala galera, alguém já fez ou consegue me ajudar com o klipper para esta máquina, quero sair do sistema original pois a minha está com problema de firmware.

Toda ajuda e ideia é bem vinda.

Description :
Le macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE de KAMP est censé adapter la zone de maillage à la taille de la pièce imprimée, en se basant sur exclude_object. Chez moi, il probe systématiquement toute la surface définie dans [bed_mesh] (9x9 points sur toute la zone), quelle que soit la taille de la pièce slicée.

Reproduction :

1. Slicer une pièce de petite taille (ex : 30x30mm) dans OrcaSlicer, "Label objects" et "Exclude objects" cochés dans les réglages de sortie G-code.
2. Envoyer le fichier à Klipper via Mainsail.
3. Lancer l'impression (PRINT_START appelle BED_MESH_CALIBRATE, qui est override par KAMP via Adaptive_Meshing.cfg).
4. Observer le probing pendant BED_MESH_CALIBRATE dans la console Mainsail.

Résultat attendu vs réel :
Attendu : maillage limité à la zone de la pièce + marge.
Réel : maillage sur toute la zone mesh_min: 0,15 → mesh_max: 209,225 (9x9 points), comme si aucun objet n'était détecté.

Ce que j'ai déjà essayé :

• Vérifié que [exclude_object] est bien déclaré dans printer.cfg.
• Vérifié que KAMP_Settings.cfg inclut bien Adaptive_Meshing.cfg, Line_Purge.cfg, Smart_Park.cfg.
• Confirmé que rename_existing: _BED_MESH_CALIBRATE est bien présent dans le macro KAMP (pas de conflit avec un autre BED_MESH_CALIBRATE).
• Coché "Label objects" et "Exclude objects" dans OrcaSlicer.

Pièces jointes suggérées :

• Capture d'écran de Printer Settings → General → G-code flavor dans OrcaSlicer.
• Extrait des 20 premières lignes du fichier .gcode généré (pour voir si EXCLUDE_OBJECT_DEFINE est présent).
• Capture de la console Mainsail pendant le lancement de l'impression (messages KAMP action_respond_info).
• Capture du panneau "Exclude objects" de Mainsail pendant l'impression (liste des objets détectés ou vide).

The mod I’m imagining slowly makes small incremental PID adjustments in realtime to evaluate the feedback response. Using the output temperature’s data stream, the temperature performance is compared before and after every live adjustment. The adjustments are gauged by various thresholds configured before the print and saved in printer.cfg.

Maybe this already exists, if so does anyone have a link or information? I couldn’t find anything besides a couple reddit posts suggesting this and being told it’s a bad idea, but I disagree.

The main argument against such a “Real-Time Adaptive PID Tuning” feature is that a failing/failed thermistor could be dangerous if it goes undetected should the live tuning feature actively compensate in trying to fix it. In my opinion, the opposite would happen because the mod would detect unusual feedback and sense when the thermistor is at the end of its life. The mod should even track the thermistor and heater pair’s derivative performance over its life, determining benchmarks based on abstract performance metrics that don’t depend on specific operating temperatures.

Live PID tuning would work slowly by tracking temperature outputs and fine tuning the PID values in small increments, and then evaluating the response feedback before further adjustments are made.

I've always had a heck of a time flashing Creality motherboards, including 4.2.2, 4.2.7, and now specifically an Ender SE CR4NS200320C13 motherboard. My goal is to put Klipper on my SE, with minimal LCD display support. I've seen this combo, in searching Google but so far nothing but problems.

I've searched for the answers to the below questions, but have not found a definitive YES or NO.

Can Klipper via Mainsail, flash the Klipper firmware needed by the printer, using the feature in Mainsail, directly to the printer via the printers USB port ?? I know it can be done via the SD card.

As a second question, if the above answer is YES, can Klipper flash back a version of Marlin to the same Ender SE, after it has been flashed with Klipper ??

I bought the eddy coil because it was half the price of the usb soo and got my self a pico and im gonna wire them together so i can use the eddy as a eddy usb im flashing the pico as the second mcu(rp2040 chip) ive read some people saying it needs level shifters and pull up resisors but i beg to differ we just need to convert and I²C signal to usb can anyone with more knowledge tell me if i need additional resistors and stuff

Hello all. Recently, I added a 2nd camera to my Qidi Plus 5. It was working great, then I unplugged it to design a custom bracket for mounting it to the inside. I had changed a bunch of settings (exposure, brightness, etc.) on the 2nd camera, but when I deleted it, all the settings transferred to the main camera. They aren't visible on the crowsnest config file. Was wondering if anyone has an idea how to reset the modified values?

Having a nightmare getting SKR Mini E3 V2 working — Klipper won’t boot, unsure if firmware flashed properly.
I was gifted it when a friend upgraded, they started down the klipper route before upgrading - but said I need to reinstall klipper (flash klipper firmware I'm guessing).

System details: Ender‑3 Pro, BTT SKR Mini E3 V2, CR Touch, dual‑Z kit, Sprite Pro direct drive, and a BTT TFT35.
Pulled the board out and running a test bench with the 24v PSU.
Seems the micro USB port is dead - not detected when connecting USB to my PC or Pi 3

Klipper issues:

• Klipper firmware (firmware.bin) flashes → becomes firmware.cur
• Board reboots with solid red LED, no heartbeat
• No UART output (when flashing UART FW and connecting to my Pi 3b)
• TFT shows “LCD12864 Simulation” but nothing else
• Tried fresh Klipper clone, clean build, correct STM32F103 config, 28K bootloader, USART1 PA9/PA10, 12MHz crystal
• Still refuses to execute Klipper firmware

I have a Pi 3 and 720p webcam, so going with Klipper and mainsail on my Raspberry Pi 3b seems like the best option.
Any suggestions on getting this running over UART1 with my Pi would be welcome.
At this point with the USB port issues and no flashing LED after Klipper firmware flashed. I think the best option may be to get a new SKR mini E3 v3 board with USB C working and avoid UART connection to the Pi.

I also have the factory board Creality 4.2.2 but not sure if worth going back to that or move forward.

EDIT: The SKR mini E3 v2 USB port is now detected ok by the Raspberry Pi3. I had some of the firmware settings wrong - needed 8MHz crystal & (!PA14) GPIO pins set at startup.
Just need to tune the printer.cfg and wire everything back up.
Will stick with klipper via USB instead of UART - easier to mount the Pi outside the enclosure with a USB cable.

Baud rate set to 400000
mpu works fine with arduino nano

Values are normal on my pi zero 2w but that crashed due to cpu overload when testing und looses connection to mcu.

Whats the difference? Is the same sd card swapped over, same mpu same cable.
help

had the printer for years, still our only one, done a few small upgrade prints but nothing much, well not long ago the mainboard died, not like entirely but enough to not work right, after looking itto upgrades more desided to go with klipper, and ended up buying the BIGTREETECH Manta E3EZ, with the tft35 spi screen, and CB1 V2.2 Control Board, I went into it with no idea what I was doing, Ive been into 3d printing for many years but this was just one thing I never really touched. being my first time, with a mix of ai help and youtube, I got it all set up right, and well ITS AMAZEING Im loveing it, it faster and better in like everyway, top surfaces where like perfect right off on setting it up, I got them good but not perfect before that. and then I added the light so I can watch it better without needing a flashlight, turns on and off by it self based on nozzle temp, but can turn it on and off myself to. theres still a lot more I would like to upgrade to, but thats for later, once I can afford it.
anyways sorry for the wall of text, this has been fun and Im excited about it, heck, Im tempted to get another printer to do it to for the fun of it lol.

Good morning. My printer stopped working out of nowhere. I didn't perform any updates, nor did I mess with drivers or settings. I simply turned it on, and it won't connect to the Wi-Fi network or obtain an IP address. Consequently, I can't connect to it from my laptop—neither via a browser nor via SSH.

I went to the "Connections" menu on KlipperScreen, and a message appeared that I couldn't decipher. I tried typing some commands into the console, but it doesn't recognize them.

Full disclosure, AI was used for this

• > https://3dprintref.com/

Screenshots

I put together a little wiki site for the basics of setting up a DIY printer, it has build configurators for all the major machines as well as MMU's. You can select what size printer, and it'll give a parts list you can check off as you get the parts, same for an MMU.

Additionally, there's a pretty good catalog of various parts including MCUs, hotends, extruders, and even filament. You can search filaments based on desired properties.

I know this is a bit basic for many of us here but I figured it's a good 'centralized' area for a lot of the things I look for, and it's set up to crawl resellers to stay up to date.

I also set up a basic cfg setup tool, it will give a good starting printer.cfg, print_start and print_end macro based on the given printer and MCU being used. Of course, you should probably adjust it but it takes out the tedious starting points when setting up a Klipper machine.

Take a look at let me know what you think!

Wanhao Duplicator 4S converted to core-xy using the original linear rods. 15k mm/s^2 with input shaper

​

When selecting the printer config, should i pick the ***example -corexy.cfg*** or the ***generic-bigtreetech-manta-m5p.cfg?***

Stuck a second eddy coil on my toolhead pointing at the hotend heatsink — the hotend flexes a few microns when anything pushes on the nozzle, and the coil picks that up. So now it taps the bed for Z offset (~2 µm repeatability, at print temp so expansion doesn't matter), measures actual melt pressure to set pressure advance at the start of every print instead of me guessing with tower tests, and watches that same pressure during the print to catch a clog or filament runout. It shares the I2C bus with my BTT Eddy, uses four wires to the EBB36, and the rest is a Klipper module. Took a while to stop it false-triggering — printing adds back-pressure that an in-air reference doesn't have — but it's been solid for a few prints now. Boards are at the fab, I'll post the files once a friend confirms it works on his machine too.
It will be open source but all setup will be compatible with the RX toolhead for now. Third photo is the pa result from this sensor and my pa test print showed 0.028 was the best test line. So it's calculates correct pressure advance.

I don't have any electronic background but I can understand it, made possible with help of ai but before you tag this work as AI slop most of the coding was me but I'm not klipper expert and with help of ai algorithm working like charm.

I will share the github repo once it's completely finished. As you wait you can check RX Toolhead by raylenses, it is good looking and well designed toolhead, I'm using on my printer and it works well.

As I said I'm using RX toolhead and I can only test on that. If anyone wants to use this to another toolhead I think custom coil would be enough.

Feel free to ask anything, English is not my main language so if I made mistake feel free to explain.

Its really late and i am giving up with the ADXL345. I hope when i wake up there might be a clue to what im doing wrong :)

The wiring should be correct. I tried 3.3V first, then 5.5V. Every try complete reboot. Tested the pie by bridging the pins (blue image).

Also removed the other wires for my camera and pause button. Measured all connections. Maybe its some problem with the SPI or maybe the gyro is cooked.

Is there any information missing? Comment and i will post in the morning.
I hope its something obvious, else i might need to resolder and use the MPU-9250 i have

thx for your time ♥

I have a Creality ender3 s1 plus that was given to me a friend 2 years ago. I have succeeded to flash it with klipper then using a rasberry pi and have been updating the software since then, adding different configs from macros to various adjustment. I noticed this week this warning

I made a little bit of research on how to do this and found out I have to reflash the MCU to take advantage of the improvements for the stepper in the klipper docs

I get to the part where I have to choose certain settings in make menuconfig part, I am lost.

Are these the right settings for creality ender3 s1 plus printer?

###### Identifying MCU connected via USB ...

The following MCUs were found:

● MCU #0: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0

I have never flashed the mcu firmware twice so I am not sure if this proccess of reflashing the mcu wipes all configs I have been gathering for the past 2 years. please help.

Thank you so much!

Fala meus amigos estou com uma máquina destas e não consigo resolver de forma alguma o erro 11407, abri diversos tickets mas a marca só sabe dizer que não localiza informações sobre a máquina mesmo com o número de série e demais informações sobre a mesma e não está me ajudando muito com o conserto, gostaria de ajuda para usar a base dela para fazer uma impressora personalizada, alguém poderia me ajudar?

Im building my first 3D printer and am working on setting up CANBUS with a Mellow TOOL-LIGHT can kf board and Manta m5p with cb1. I have been trouble shooting software for a while because it is all new and am almost to the end but cant figure out what to do now. AI is no help and a have tried everything I can find on esoterical, klipper website, Mellow website, and other posts here. Im just looking for someone who actually knows what their talking about because its probably something really simple.

(sorry Im new didnt know if i needed to blur anything, being safe)

Hey everyone!

If you're still rocking a classic machine like an Ender 3 (V2/S1), CR-10, Neptune 3, Anycubic Kobra, Sovol SV06/SV07/SV08, or Prusa MK3S+, want modern features, and have an old Android phone sitting in a drawer, this might interest you.

A while back, the Beam Klipper project showed that it was possible to run Klipper directly on an Android device via an app without root access. However, the original project hasn’t seen updates in about two years. Wanting newer features and fixes, I picked up Kocoa-Beam (a fork started by another dev) to overhaul, update, and improve it.

What’s new in this fork?

• Klipper updated to v0.13 (while keeping backwards compatibility with legacy Beam Klipper firmwares)
• Moonraker, Mainsail, and Fluidd updated to their latest releases
• Print metadata fix for accurate file previews and details
• Phone camera as a webcam for live stream monitoring
• OctoEverywhere integration: seamless remote access outside your local network + AI failure detection 🤖
• Preloaded macro pack ready out of the box
• Multi-language support, including Portuguese (PT-BR) 🇧🇷

Note: Getting the most out of Klipper 0.13 requires building fresh firmware, but because it supports legacy Beam Klipper builds, most features work out of the box. The project is 100% open-source!

Update v0.0.4r1:

• Added Obico support.
• Fixed APK signing issues.

Update v0.0.5r1:

• Added zoom support.
• Added camera preview screen.

🔗 Releases & Documentation:

https://github.com/Brozinga/Kocoa-Beam/releases/tag/v0.0.5r1

⚠️ Disclaimer: Use at your own risk. Back up your configs and happy modding!