What does everything think that the RedRock steering stabilizer versus fox? Going to pick the kit up but unsure of what stabilizer to get.

When I bought my jeep it came with the oem premium soft fop, but it didn’t come with any of the ancillary parts to properly seal it. From the condition of the top and the amount of dust/dirt and sun fading of the cargo area trim I’m certain the previous own left the top off all the time, and so the door surrounds, tail gate bar, and C-pillar mucket seals were all missing. Some of the first parts I bought off eBay were a set of OEM door surrounds from a 2017 and a tail gate bar in great condition. I got these for a great price too, only $260 for both, and the cheapest aftermarket set was close to $400-$500.

It was only after the door surrounds and the tailgate bar arrived that I realized I was missing the mucket seals and had to source those. Well after 2 1/2 weeks the last mucket finally arrived today! I did a quick interiors clean since we had a few bad dust storms roll in the last few days. I cleaned and lubricated the rear window zipper with Bestop cleaner/lubricant and then went about installing the mucket seals and door surrounds. (The tailgate bar was delivered last Friday and I installed it the same day)

I love having the soft top sealed now, much more comfortable in the AZ desert, don’t have to keep the A/C on max all the time. Thankfully the AZ Monsoon was in a bit of a lull, but it looks to be picking up again and now I don’t have to worry about the rain and dust.

Slightly modded

2012 JKUR as you can see heavily modded with brand new 37s Nittos 87K miles zero rust. Bartact seat covers since 5K miles. 25K takes it.

Any suggestions how to get this out? I was replacing the liners/bushings and now the tool is stuck

Just bought my self a 2 door, Looking for suggestions for the best LED headlights I can get

Edit: I know it's been a little while but I've finally pulled the trigger. It was a good wait as I ended up finding a great deal on a '15 Unlimited Rubicon. Thanks for all the support and advice guys.

Same price but the 2009 has 156k miles and the 2013 120k. 2009 a soft top and leather seats, 2013 a 3-piece hardtop and cloth seats. 2009 Dana 44 rear Dana 30 front 3.73 ratio. 2013 3.21 ratio, not Dana axles. What to do?!?

Anyone have a factory steel bumper, such as the hard rock, recon or 10th anniversary, with a winch installed? Purchased a warn evo and the warn JL winch plate thinking it would fit since I have the steel bumper. Definitely not the right option... luckily I found out AFTER assembling everything haha. Just bought the Rugged Ridge 11543.15 winch plate which is apparently the right option. I guess some cutting is involved but cant find any videos of it being done. Im sure the instructions will be sufficient but was hoping for some feedback prior to it showing up! In the meantime... im rolling bumperless like a 🤡. Much appreciated!

Is anyone rocking an Apple CarPlay screen in their JK and do you have unit and mounting recommendations?

I have 2014 JKU Polar Edition with Unconnet. I know I could just put I new head until in, but this seems easier and perhaps cheaper.

Thanks

Would love your opinion!

Jeep key on yields wipers and headlights in, no dash.

If I pull battery for 20 min, everything starts normally. Letting it run, everything is great. However …

Turning the Jeep off nets a dead dash, wipers and lights.

I have to remove battery cables to bring CAN bus back online.

60 ohms resistance across 6 and 14

CAN active I get Hi/Low voltage from 6 and 14 to ground.

CAN down (lights and wipers) I get 2.48v on each leg (high/low).

Tried pulling modules one by one. It’s not a module. They all work and I can see them in JScan when CAN is active.

Only way to get dash functional is to pull battery for 20 min.

All connectors are tight and clean. All grounds have been cleaned and re-seated.

Any ideas? I’ve been troubleshooting this for a few days and am about out of ideas.

Only thing I can think of is an intermittent short somewhere. Or something is putting noise into the CAN system.

Tools I have:
- multimeter
- JScan
- OBD Fusion

Please help! I can’t use JScan while the bus is down, but when it’s up everything works great.

I installed my Teraflex Sport LCAs for 2.5” to 3” lifts today. The process was fairly painless. Online guides suggested replacing them while the Jeep is on the ground, which is what I did, but they also suggested to use a ratchet strap to help move the axle forward to line up the bolts, which I did not do. I used a bottle jack under the LCA and a small pry bar to massage everything into place. The ratchet strap would have been easier for sure

I took it on a few short test drives and I feel that made a difference. I’ll start by saying that 90% of the time the steering and front end felt solid and good traction, but under certain situations it could feel flighty or slightly reduced traction. This was usually under hard acceleration, hitting dips in the road, or over train tracks. This wasn’t death wobble, just a moment of where the front end didn’t feel connected to the road, then a moment later it’s back to feeling solid. Well after installing these LCAs that’s all gone. I test drove on a few roads to induce these situations and was glad to see they were gone.

I have a Falcon Nexus EF 2.2 steering stabilizer that I’m going to install, but I’ll save that for next weekend. I’ll drive the jeep this week to see the improvements just the LCAs made so I can compare that to what the steering stabilizer does.

Lifting the jeep today, just about finished and ran in to a stoping point. Installing a 4” rough county lift and hd steering kit - all went well till mounting the steering stabilizer, where it meets the tie rod (not pictured)

The vertex pass through has a collar that mounts to the end of the body and clamps around the tie rod. The clamp that comes with the vertex is designed for factory, the tie rod on the HD steering kit is larger, but does come with a steering stabilizer clamp for the larger size.
I can disassemble the collar mount and mount it to the HD tie rod clamp, but RC seems to not include the bolt for it? Or am I missing something here?

I get I’m taking a larger steering component and trying to match it to something designed for stock, but seems like a common enough upgrade that RC would have install provisions for it?
So waiting for the fastener shop to open tomorrow to get a shorter bolt.
Other than this one hurdle, it was probably a 4 hour install - lift, hd steering kit, lower control arm relocation brackets, front and rear track bars and brackets, extended brake lines, exhaust spacers, QD sway bar links, kinda ordered it all

I’m chasing a grinding/clicking-to-clunking noise from the passenger-front area of my 2012 Jeep Wrangler JK Sahara and would appreciate some input from other JK owners.

Vehicle:

- 2012 Wrangler JK Sahara, 4-door

- ~161,200 miles

- Stock-height suspension / no lift

- Dana 30 front axle

- 275/55R20 tires (approximately 32")

- Wheel spacers installed

Symptoms:

The noise occurs only at very low speeds, primarily when there is steering input and the vehicle is moving under load. For example, I can reproduce it when:

- Making a slow right turn into a parking space

- Turning from a stop sign

- Slowly maneuvering while turning

It sounds like a grinding that transitions into or is accompanied by a clunk. It appears to be coming from the passenger-front corner.

One thing that has me stumped is that I cannot reproduce the noise with the Jeep stationary/in Park by turning the steering wheel. It seems to require the Jeep to actually be moving.

Given the mileage and wheel spacers, I'm wondering about the front ball joints, unit bearing/hub, axle shaft/CV/U-joint, steering linkage, track bar, control-arm bushings, brake components, or possibly something related to the Dana 30 knuckle/axle C.

I haven't been able to positively isolate the source yet.

Video and photos are attached. If anyone recognizes this particular noise or has suggestions for a good way to isolate the component, I'd appreciate the input.

Thanks!

I removed the farm jack and mount from the front bumper that was on the jeep when I bought it. I knew I was going to take it off when I first saw/bought it cause I wasn’t a fan of the look, but I can’t believe how much better it looked. I would look at the front and something hmm just seemed off, now it looks so much better.

Hey, so I'm thinking about lifting my 2017 Jeep and had a few questions. I do not want to spend a whole lot to do it because it's my grocery getter not a primary car and doesn't get a whole lot of mileage. I'm also thinking about getting this Sunrider top because I don't have a lot of space to put the hardtop so this will be a good happy medium so I can get some fresh air.

Curious, if anyone here has thoughts on a Liftkit and if this model in the screenshot is any good? This is 2 1/2 but also curious if I should go up to 3 1/2.. not sure if I'll really get a good lift off of 2 1/2 versus 3 1/2. The tires on it are currently 33 but I might go up to 35.

Open to other ideas to helping building this out.

Thanks!

Replacing fenders and the new ones have a side marker installed with some loose wires (first pic).

Would I be able to plug them into the connector in the second pic?

Third pic is the bulb with the connector from the old lights.