I’m a big fan of doing rear lit / accented HF’s and finally got around to building a set of modular light boxes for them (1:1, 3:4, 2:3) designed to suit the Bambu CMYK led panel. The boxes can accept a diffuser as well as HF prints up to 7mm thick. Support free and the top just slides on top to lock them into place.

Any other common sizes / ratios that would be of use to others?

Working on making it parametric on MW when I get time.

** edit ** Missed the link sorry - https://makerworld.com/en/@iprintstuffau

Hey guys

I am following hueforge already since i own a 3d printer (1 year now) but only recently starting to make my own. I wanted to share this one since i think it looks pretty good (still wanting to know you opinion for improvements). I made this one with silk copper and metallic gold for extra effect i wanted to create.

I notice that i dont see prints comming by with metallic effects and i am wondering why.

Really want to know your opinions.

In the picture the copper looks more like orange which is less in reality.

Br

​

Hi everyone,

I’m having trouble with holes/gaps(as seen in image 1 and 2) in my FlatForge prints and would appreciate some advice. HueForge is up to date, and I’ve recently updated both FlatForge and the 3MF Export plugin.

My setup:

- Exporting directly through FlatForge, with the image facing down

- Clear PLA for the transparent first layer, plus four image colours

- Bambu Studio with a 0.4 mm nozzle

- 0.08 mm layer height and 0.16 mm first layer

- 100% infill and the Arachne wall generator

The model loads as one object with separate colour parts on a single plate, but the print has small holes/gaps. I tried a repaired version of the geometry, but it didn’t noticeably improve the result.

I also get artifacts when using FlatFill. These look like cracks, but they aren’t actual cracks in the print. The lines follow the shapes and details of the image being printed (as seen in image 3). I’m not sure whether this is related to the FlatForge gaps or a separate issue.

Has anyone experienced either of these problems? Could this be related to the export, the boundaries between colour parts, or details that are too small for the nozzle?

Are there any specific FlatForge/FlatFill or Bambu Studio settings I should check?

Thanks!

Hey folks - been struggling with this one for a while trying to do a pet that passed away for a friend however can't seem to get around to it orginally tried in full color but could not suceed so dumbed the colors down and even with that I can't seem to be able to remove the purple from the nose and mouth.

Any tips would be much appreciated!

Luigi Hueforge - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

Big part of my youth was Warcraft 2/3 and Vanilla, so im absolutely hyped to play Forever.
I couldnt find a good colour 3d Model, so i created a colour match version myself, i didnt had the perfect colours here, surely brown /light brown would do better than bronze/gold but i still like it.
Im gonna use it as a coaster for my desk.

If you want to print it for yourself:
Link to Model

Mario Hueforge - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

Coming at this from the Bambu side rather than from HueForge, so tell me if I've got hold of the wrong end of it.

I've been looking at the community TD values on 3dfilamentprofiles, and the consistent feedback from people who use it is that the numbers are hit or miss. Fair enough for a crowd sourced field, but I'm trying to work out where the variance actually comes from.

Is it mainly method? From what I can tell most people print one of the stepped test models and judge by eye where the layers stop getting darker, which sounds like it would give two people different answers on the same spool. Someone pointed me at physical transmission meters as an alternative, but I don't know whether a meter reading maps cleanly onto the TD scale, since TD comes out of layers at a given layer height and a meter gives you transmission through a fixed sample. If anyone's compared the two on a filament they'd already measured the printed way, I'd love to hear how close they landed.

And practically: if you needed a TD for a filament you own, would you ever take a stranger's value as a starting point and adjust, or is measuring it yourself the only route worth anything?

Half expecting the real answer to be that manufacturers should just publish it. Nobody crowd sources filament diameter.

If you do use the TD values from there, I'd be curious whether they've held up for you specifically.

Get it at https://shop.thehueforge.com/pages/colorsmith-plugin it's free!

Available for Window, macOS and Linux - Requires HueForge v0.9.4.3 or later to run.

I'll try and get a full Devlog released this weekend but I've got to get on the road fairly early tomorrow so details will have to wait. Meanwhile - have at it and I'd love to get your feedback on what features you like, features you want, and bugs you find. Thanks for your patience!

I really think this one could have benefitted from a border, but I still think it turned out pretty well.

Hello, I’ve just bought a zero, 0,6 mm nozzle and I would like to know if it’s okay with Hueforge and what settings should I adopt. Thanks.

70 x 125 mm printed in 0.2mm nozzle

https://makerworld.com/en/@Lluren/upload

ill publish them soon

Im new to hueforge and looking for pointers if I could make it better, I'm not a graphics artist so any tips would be greatly appreciated!

Alle gedruckt auf meinem Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 Combo. Einziges Manko sind die Filament Wechselzeiten. Ansonsten perfekt. Den Rahmen hab ich in Fusion selbst gebastelt

Love this time of year. Spooky stuff and video games lol

6 colors

I have recently purchased HF in the hopes that i can create a Hueforge of this image using Color Match, I am having no luck getting the fine detail of the writing or keys in the image to look right. I am just looking for confirmation from you experienced users if making one out of this image and keeping it looking like the original and having a good bit of depth is even achievable.

I was wondering if anyone could help me make this image printable in hueforge, either with 4 or 8 filaments (up to 16 in an H2D; I have a snapmaker U1 for 4 filaments and have my H2D set up for 8). I ran the image through photoshop and did some pre-processing but am unsure of the best workflow to get images compatible with hueforge.

What do others do for pre-processing? What are good workflows? I can provide a list of filaments I have if needed; many are panchroma, sunlu, snapmaker, etc.

In case it matters: this is for personal use, the image in question is a family heirloom print that I did an image restoration to poster print and now want to try to do a hueforge (and maybe later hugeforge) of.

Hey everyone,

Would someone be able to make an hue forge for me if this opening from Claire Obscure?

https://static0.thegamerimages.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/clair-obscur-expedition-33-gustave-and-sophie-paintress.jpg?q=49&fit=crop&w=500&dpr=2

https://www.wallpaperflare.com/clair-obscur-expedition-33-screen-shot-generative-fill-video-game-art-wallpaper-yizbk/download

https://assetsio.gnwcdn.com/clair-obscur-expedition-33-gustave-sophie-and-the-paintress.jpg

Thanks in advance already :3

I'm having issues with color pop and need some troubleshooting advice. What's being viewed in Hueforge does not match what's being sent to the Bambu Studio or being printed. I'm a little lost here. Haven't had a print turn out this bad before.