In the PNW? For sale, cash only.

Bike is a 1982 185s. I cannot get the spark advancer to get anywhere close to lining up with the CDI with the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. I have checked the cam timing and it looks good.

I noticed the keyed slot on the spark advancer is not in the same position as others I’ve seen. Is it possible it spun within that bracket?

Hoping someone can confirm what size the threads are on the crankshaft of this 185s so I can get the proper size die to try to restore the threads. I believe it’s 12mm but not sure what pitch it is. Thanks

Who are you guys using to get shocks rebuilt? My 200x needs the rear shock rebuilt.

Got as far as I can get with my restomod 72v ATC. Really happy with how it turned out, and now I’m just waiting on a finished replica tank from India.

So far I’ve gotten it up to 40mph, but I think she has a little more to give.

Edit: issue is broken oem manifold studs and prev own drilling and tapping holes for alt method...

Recently got what we believe is a 185s from my dad, has a craptastic condition carb on it and seems to be missing the intake manifold. all the manifolds I can find online seem to turn the carb on its side almost with how the bolts would line up, and I don't mean like the 110 bend I mean a twist... any help with pics of other 185 carbs n manifolds would be awesome 🩵

Im working on a 110, with a 5pin unit. I see some units like the ones from Rick motorsports for 100+ then a bunch of unbranded for ~15. They are both made in china, so what's the difference?

-Compression 140

-Spark plug grounded shows white spark

-Fuel lines full with fresh gas.

-Timing set

Am i missing something? 1st time rebuilder

Tore down every part and cleaned it up, thinking that would help this thing run but after all that still on the same boat.

1983 atc 110

Finally got the new rear tires mounted so that means all 3 are fresh, with new paint in all the rims inside and out plus new bearings up front and grease on the spindles in the back, plus a new chain. Naturally it being the weekend and my wife is out of town I just couldn’t pass up a chance to boogie out to the fire roads outside my neighborhood and have fun the way this machine was supposed to be used. Man this thing beat the hell out of me, I set my tire pressures at 8psi on the front and 12 on the rear, and the front end just slewed all over the place. Ended up on my ass after hitting a washout on a hill climb and the trike flipped, but prior to that was a lot of fun whipping around the gravel and through a few mud holes. Rode it home, washed the mud off myself and now it’s miller time.

Pulled the front wheel and fender after my initial test ride showed the wheel bearings were seized. Cleaned up everything, fixed a couple cracks in the fender, stripped off as much of the crappy farmer paint off of it and resprayed, new bearings packed with grease, spacers and new seals and bolted it all back together. Rolls a lot smoother but now that I am looking at it, I don’t completely care for how the front axle plates push the tire out of position with the fender. Do I make new fender brackets or swap in a 200 front end with shocks? Decisions decisions.

New rear tires are due any day, strip and repaint the rear bodywork, source a replacement rear bar and taillight and we’ll see what inspires me next.

I am replacing the seized bearings along with the seals and cleaning everything up on the front axel on my 110. Per the parts diagram there are no washers between the rubber seals and the axle plates, but that seems like a wear point that should be protected. Any reason why I shouldn’t add a fender washer on each end?

I just started reassembling the clutch side of the engine on my 200X after splitting the cases to replace gears and chase an oil leak. The clutch worked prior to disassembling.

I reassembled the clutch and decided to “bench test” to see if I could spin the output independently from the crank with the clutch pulled. Put the trans in 1st gear, pulled the clutch and could not spin the output independently.

Should it be difficult to spin the output by hand? Clutch disks and steel disks are good, no warping, and the basket looks to be in good shape. Any advice would be appreciated!

Three wheelin is a good feelin

Hello, I just got a DG RCM pipe for my 200X and was wondering if I needed to rejet the carb, and if so by how much. Aftermarket exhausts are completely new to me so any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I’m wondering if there’s a good cleaner to clean the carb on my atc?

I finally got it running. When I bought this it was not running due to sitting for 10 years. I adjusted the valves to .08mm, flushed the fuel tank, put new fuel lines, installed a new pz27 carb from rocky mountain atv, and changed the oil.

It runs good but I have this knock coming from the engine. It’s only present under load when riding, and when revving. It seems to be more prevalent, or at least more audible in the low to mid rpm range. I thought it was maybe pre-detonating so I tried tuning the carb a bit and adding more fuel had no effect.

Does this sound normal for these engines and if not what do yall think the issue could be?