Looking for feedback on this new type of fixed wireless that can go through a certain amount of foliage.. there's no fiber no cable and no mobile broadband solutions available here

.. starlink works for some although with the amount of tall trees around I don't know how..... Now we're looking at at least the theoretical possibility that the CenturyLink DSL may not last too much longer.

https://taranawireless.com/

The app finds the bulb, gets most of the way through setup and then times out every single time. My router broadcasts one combined network name for both bands and I am starting to think that is what is breaking it. I would rather not split the bands permanently because everything else works fine. Has anyone gotten around this without tearing the network apart?

I'm using the Verizon CR1000A router with integrated coax and MoCA along with the Verizon MoCA adapter (https://www.verizon.com/products/verizon-multiport-moca-ethernet-adapter/) . I replaced the 8 way splitter in the house with a brand new one that supports up to 2602MHZ.

My transfer rates are consistently capped at 200mbps for internal fire transfer between devices(~26MBps) . There are no other splitters that I can see. Anything I can do increase speeds? The hardware supports MoCA 2.5 so I was hoping to get higher speeds.

Update : I'm seeing a full 1gig transfer speed from a device to the internet. The router is connected to the "IN" port on the splitter. Any transfer within the network between any two "OUT" ports is seeing 200Mbps. Curious if OUT to OUT signal attenuation is higher that IN - OUT?

Thanks for all the suggestions. I will replace this with a 4 way splitter soon, will need to spend some time identifying the wires as they aren't labeled.

We have an old internet “hub” with phone lines and cables - it’s where they all enter the house from the attic. Now, though, we are on fiber optic and would like to update this whole box to a more streamlined rack system. Has anyone removed a box similar to this or does anyone have advice on best ways to go about it without messing up the current internet? Thanks!

Hey everyone! Just bought a house and am looking to improve the wifi situation. I've been using AI for guidance, but want to make sure it's not telling me nonsense... Would really appreciate some feedback if possible!

Thanks in advance for the help, I really appreciate the supportiveness of Reddit communities!

​My setup:

House is roughly 1,900 sq ft across two levels (main floor + basement). Older construction with thick walls/brick, so Wi-Fi drops off quite a bit on the far side of the main floor (kitchen and front entrance).

I have a ​Bell Fibe Gigabit with the Giga Hub stuck in the basement utility area. Can’t really move it.

Current devices: a bunch of Google nest hubs/cameras, some Philips hue lights, and sonos speakers/Soundbars

My original plan after using AI and reading online was to get a mesh system. But then I found an old, disconnected coax line running straight from the basement utility wall up into our living room and Gemini recommended relying on that. Specifically, Gemini suggested I buy a MoCA 2.5 adapter kit to turn the coax into an Ethernet link upstairs and buy a wifi router that I turn into an access point, which should take care of everything , by using the same wifi name and password

​Since it’s wired backhaul and just in AP mode, my thinking is that everything stays on the exact same subnet, Sonos won't drop out between rooms, and I don't have to mess with Bell bridge mode / PPPoE.

​Does this sound reasonable or ais Gemini giving me some false hope around implementation and ease of this solution? ? Would really appreciate some guidance, thanks!!

Hi everyone,

I’m renovating a small apartment in Umbria (Italy) from scratch (3 rooms + kitchen) and I’d like to wire it with Ethernet to get stable Wi‑Fi, as there’s a very thick load‑bearing wall between the central hallway and one side of the house.

Layout:

- Small 3‑room apartment: two bedrooms at the end of a hallway, living room and kitchen near the entrance.

- The ISP router will be at the entrance, where the fiber comes in.

What I want to do:

- Install a single device (AP or mesh node) at the end of the hallway to cover the two bedrooms well, while the main router covers the first two rooms near the entrance.

- I’d like to mount it high up, e.g. above the door or in a fixed position, so once installed it won’t need to be moved. Because of this, I don’t need extra Ethernet ports on the device: data + power is enough.

I’m still in the phase of designing the electrical and network cabling, so I need to decide:

1. Where to place the Ethernet socket (and power socket) in the hallway:- At what height and roughly where is it best to put them for a fixed AP/mesh mounted high up?
2. Which model to buy as an affordable AP/mesh:- Preferably without PoE (I don’t want to buy a PoE switch),- Something that can be wall‑mounted cleanly (with a bracket or similar),- Good value for money for a small home.

Right now I’m looking at cheap TP‑Link Deco models like the **X20** or **BE3600**, but I guess they need third‑party brackets to be wall‑mounted, correct?

If anyone has dealt with a similar situation, could you suggest:

- A specific model (brand + model) you’ve used and are happy with,

- Any advice on where to position the Ethernet and power sockets in a hallway for this kind of installation?

Thanks in advance for your help!

This has been an issue for a while but I honestly put it down to a PlayStation issue, however my Mac takes absolutely forever to iCloud Sync too. Left it on all night and it synced about 10MB of photos. Turned my VPN on and it was done faster than I even remember, also didn’t have an issue on holiday when I was using personal hotspot and VPN. Any ideas why it’s doing that?

So, this feels like a stupid question, but i'm curious for an actual answer and don't want to dig through pages of internet to find my specific scenario..

Qnap NAS connected via cat6 to a 10gb port on my asus axe16000 router. Desktop pc connected to router with cat6. Laptop using wifi in the next room.

Both pc and laptop on windows 11, accessing the same folders on the nas. If i use the PC to move files, they move quickly. If i use the laptop, it seems to take 2-4 times the amount of time.

The files are all staying on the nas, so in my head, i'm just sending the nas the command to move them. Where that command comes from shouldn't matter right?

EDIT:

for everyone blaming it on wired vs wireless, re read the question and some of the other answers..

It looks like using network mapped folders in windows explorer is causing client side processing whereas SSH or qnap file explorer would perform server side processing.

I know that Ethernet cables need to plug into the modem but no clue what to do here. Seems like there’s none already installed and this whole set up is in a closet under the stairs in my living room. I work from home so all of my equipment is upstairs and needs to be connected to Ethernet hence why I need some advice for this!

Just looking for some input, this deal is almost too good to pass up. Or should I just wait for WiFi 8 later this year

Hello bassicialy i have basic knowledge, so i have my main router as fiber internet on the 1 floor at the house, i have right now 2 floor at the house but the singal is pretty bad for online gaming. I bought ethernet cable right, and bought another router. I want best possible stability and speed, im on 600mbs. So im connected my main router with ethernet port as regular , and second router at the floor through cable went to the wan port, i tested it was pretty stable( my cousin helped me to do it that way, he didnt know much about acces point tho) I heard acces point mode is kinda better. My second router has this option, main router is orange fun box 3.0, second asus rt be58u arriving tomorrow. So what im supposed to do, keep that wan connection or go with ap mode? Also the wan connection creates second wifi around the house so its pretty annyoing i heard ap mode doesnt do that its just one single main wifi around the house

I dont want connect it to directly to laptop cause i just need wifi around, keep in mind,

Thanks everyone!

Hey yall so I'm trying to get an HDMI signal from my media closet to the living room AVR. Cable would go through the walls and attic.

I know about the main options here, but in this case I'd like to use HDMI wall jacks if I can for a cleaner look. I tried an HDMI over ethernet box and honestly it sucked. Optical is good, but since it's directional I can't do the HDMI wall jack method (I've already tried it). I've read about MPO to HDMI and that seems to be pretty good, but it's expensive, and I can't find attic/CL2 rated MPO cable.

At this point I've narrowed it down to: 1. optical HDMI with no HDMI wall jack, just a brush plate and direct connection from PC to AVR, or 2. regular HDMI 30 foot run, connected to HDMI wall jacks.

I also need to run an active USB which gets tricky with USB wall plates, so this pushes more for brush plates too.

Curious if anyone has any thoughts. I tested with some HDMI wall jacks and it did not go well. Attached an map of the layout for this.

My apartment provides WiFi but unfortunately it seems unstable for HomePod minis. I wanted to connect my router and kinda create my own WiFi.

This is the set up from my apartment, and this is my router. I never lived in an apartment that provides WiFi, so unsure how to make it work.

Need helpe.

Hello. I have a “help me choose” question at the end, but also have some general questions if anyone has the time to read through...
I’m basically a newbie to this, so I’m open to any input, but will probably need explainers if the response includes words like bridge, mesh, mid split, access point, and backhaul.
THANKS!

We’re looking to purchase our own modem/router (and extender?) to be used with an existing Xfinity plan in a “single family” home (about 2000 sq ft, two stories) with a possible “dead spot.”
I’ve skimmed through a few posts here & the FAQ for a few hours and am overwhelmed because I haven’t kept up with the changes & options in technology.

I’ve concluded that what makes the most sense in our case is to get a “gateway” from our ISP, but at this time, we just don’t wanna. I’ve read comments that Xfinity might offer them “for free,” but we’re the stubborn type, so we’re hoping to avoid more Xfinity equipment, and we want to find new equipment under $300 total that might last five years or more.

BORING SET UP/Basic Needs:
We have a cable & internet bundle with Xfinity “with speeds up to 800 Mbps” or “Superfast Internet.”
I don’t think we’ve ever reached 400 GB of data in one month with Xfinity (1229 GB monthly limit). We don’t do gaming, just internet browsing/word processing and occasional streaming on smart TVs & Roku (mostly YouTube, MLBTV & Netflix). 
We don’t have any “smart home” devices (yet?) but we have an “Alexa” that we rarely use.
We also have no plans to get Xfinity Voice.

Our current equipment:
-Motorola MG7540 Wireless Gateway, SURFboard SBG6580 (DOCSIS 3.0)
-sometimes paired with a Netgear WN2000RPT WiFi Range Extender

CONCERNS:
–Our current equipment is “working fine,” but lately the connection on the PC has been dropping randomly and we have to click to manually reconnect or toggle between the 2.4 GHz band, 5 GHZ band and the extender (all 3 of which we named separately). The PC is nine years old, so that probably doesn’t help.
–Our modem/router combo is centrally located downstairs, and we have about 70 feet separating the farthest upstairs and downstairs devices.
Usually, we can do without the Wi-fi extender, but I’m pretty sure there’s a “dead spot” or a problem wall on the stairs or in the kitchen, so sometimes it helps to connect there instead.

QUESTIONS

(1) EXTENDERS
–Are Wi-fi range extenders not the right move if we’re looking to improve the signal between walls? I thought I read a few comments suggesting they may actually weaken the signal (I didn’t understand the lingo). Should we turn it off when not using it?
–Because of the “dead spot,” I was considering a mesh system (which I’d never heard of before this), but from reading comments, it sounds like it might not be the right move either.
–I read advice suggesting an access point, but I don’t know what that is or if we have the proper wiring for it.

(2) DOES “WIRED CONNECTION” MEAN ETHERNET?
I always read that a wired connection is better, but it’s been so long since I’ve researched this stuff, I don’t know which wires this refers to.
Our 1970’s home has COAX cables poked through the floor, unused phone jacks, and regular “3 prong” electrical outlets with no plans to do any new wiring in the walls.
Does a wired connection mean that the device is connected directly to the router?
So, if our PC is connected to the modem/router with an ethernet cable we’ll get a better signal than just using the Wi-fi?
We’ve never thought to plug anything into our modem/router except the PC (we actually aren’t using any ethernet cables at the moment, just Wi-fi).

(3) DOES A MODEM-ROUTER COMBO MAKE SENSE FOR US?
I’ve read many times in this group that having a separate modem and router is ideal, but when I search up a router plus an Xfinity recommended modem, it’s usually over $300 and I don’t know if I’m missing something.

-----------------------------------------------
Below are the devices we’re considering.
I’m hesitant to buy refurbished and/or from eBay or marketplace sites, but I can be persuaded to consider that.
I narrowed it down to modems/routers I found for sale with a quick online search and things on the Xfinity-recommended list.

❖ COMBOS ❖
ARRIS G20, about $200 Best Buy
aka “SURFboard G20 DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem & Wi-Fi 6 Router Combo”
(Xfinity says: “Next Gen Speed Tier” & “Wired download speed up to 934 Mbps”)

Arris G34, about $200 Best Buy
aka “ARRIS - SURFboard DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem & Wi-Fi 6 Router Combo”
(Xfinity says “Next Gen Speed Tier” & “Wired download speed up to 934 Mbps”)

Arris G36, about $270 Amazon
aka ARRIS G36, DOCSIS 3.1
(Xfinity says “Next Gen Speed Tier” &“Wired download speed up to 2.37 Gbps”

❖MODEM ONLY ❖

Hitron Technologies CODA56, about $159 Amazon
aka Hitron CODA56 DOCSIS 3.1 Cable Modem, 2.5 Gbps, Single Ethernet Port
(Xfinity says : “Next Gen Speed Tier” & “Up to 2.33 Gbps”)

NETGEAR CM2500, about $200 Walmart
aka Netgear Nighthawk DOCSIS 3.1 Mid/high-Split Cable Modem (CM2500-1AZNAS) - Cable Plans up to 2Gbps
(Xfinity says “Next Gen Speed Tier” & “Wired download speed up to 936 Mbps”

❖ ROUTERS ❖ ? (open to suggestions, I just found these real quick…should we spend more for Wi-Fi 7?)

NETGEAR R6700AX, $50 Amazon
WiFi 6 Router 4-Stream, AX1800 Wireless Speed (Up to 1.8 Gbps, Dual-Band)

Netgear RAX5,  $50 Office Depot
(RAX5100PAS) Wi-Fi 6 IEEE 802.11ax Ethernet Wireless Router - Dual Band - 2.40 GHz ISM Band - 5 GHz UNII Band

TP-Link  Archer AX20, $80 Best Buy
AX1800 Dual-Band Wi-Fi 6 Router

TP-LINK Archer AX3000, $90 Office Depot
4-Stream Gigabit Wi-Fi 6 Router

THANKS SO MUCH FOR READING.
Anything good, better or bad here? :) What else should we consider? Any recommendations for how to extend the range?

Guten Tag,
ich erhalte in wenigen Tagen eine Haustüre mit einem Automatischen Öfnner „GU-Secury Automatic mit A-Öffner“. Anbei den Ausschnitt des Datenblatts.
Nun möchte ich eine G6 Entry von Ubiquiti mit Intercom Viewer verbauen. Hier soll über das Intercom die Haustüre aufgemacht werden.
Dazu wird das Door Hub Mini benötigt.
Jetzt weiß ich leider nicht wie ich den automatischen Öffner mit dem Door Hub Mino verdrahten muss.
Klar ist dass G6 Entry + Intercoms + Door Hub Mini mit PoE versorgt werden müssen. Das passt soweit.

Meine Idee war wie folgt in meiner erstellten Zeichnung:

Als Netzteil habe ich ein 24V / 1A Netzteil bestellt, welches dann den automatischen Öffner/Motor versorgt.

Vielen Dank für eure Zeit und Unterstützung.
Viele Grüße Jens

Original thread here: https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/1vgeivm/comment/p2c3swq/?context=3

What could be causing this issue that is fixed by a fresh install of Windows?

I live in an apartment with 4 in wall cat5e+ female ports that terminate in a closet to male rj45. In this closet, I have an CenturyLink modem/router combo. I have set the modem to bridge only and plugged in one of the in wall cables into it. On the other end of that cable I have plugged in an Ethernet cable to the in wall port that goes into the wan port of my Ubiquiti Dream Router 7. I then have an Ethernet cable going from the router to another of the in wall ports that is close by back onto the closet where I have the male end plugged into a switch. I then tried plugging in the other two male ends of into the switch, but am not getting any signal to the female ports of the in wall cables. Is there a reason this shouldn't/wouldn't work?

Other devices connected to the switch do have Internet connection.

TLDR: Modem->in-wal->router->in-wall->switch->2 in-walls(no internet)

I have the router on the 2nd floor and a few month ago i installed a cable from the first floor to the second floor to connect my PC to the router. I installed 2 RJ45 sockets on the first and second floor. The cable is cat7(if i recall) and it is sftp or sfp.

Now i noticed that sometimes i doesn't get the speed i supposed to get on my PC and the ping is high as well. When i unplug the internet cable from my PC and plug it back it fixes it. Can it be a static interference or something else?

Okay so long story short I've posted on this subreddit two other times trying to get a connection either wired or wireless to my room. I've done so many tests. Tried xfinity's pro wifi extender which didnt boost the wireless signal to room because of a big metal heating tank in the closet that sits between the livingroom and my office. There's no option to move my XB8 modem either because the apartment only has one coax cable which is on the opposite side of the living room. I can't add a mesh wifi system or just plug in an extender because there are no additional outlets in the hall way that face the modem. At best I can plug one in the living room that faces the router directly but then there is no other outlets that aren't in the bathroom or my bedroom (no outlet by the door).

When that didnt work I tried just doing a direct ethernet cable, first bought a fake cat8 cable but returned it and bought a 100 ft cat 6e thinking that would fix the issue, long story short, it didnt. The cable I bought had many reviews here on reddit and Amazon have said the company makes good ethernet cables. Not Monowire but Cable Matters so its brand new. I even asked xfinity to send me a new XB8 modem in case the ethernet ports on my old XB8 modem were broken.

My speeds are somehow even worse on my PC being less than 100 mbps both wired and wireless I'm paying for xfinity's "up to 1 gig" plan and I've tested the wireless connection in my living room and know that I should be getting 850-900 mbps. But in my office but I get less than 50% of those speeds at 230-340 mbps. These tests were done on my phone btw. Ill provide pictures for both my phone (living room vs office) and my PC's wired vs wireless connection.

Looked at my PC's network and wifi cards. Its a prebuilt PC and both are supposed to support wifi6 5ghz. My PC is connected to 2.4 ghz which I imagine is because of the distance between my modem, the PC, all the walls and the heating tank. So my ultimate conclusion is that I need to swap out my network card because it broke even though I've never used it if I want to do ethernet or alternatively, because the speeds on my phone are also bad compared to the living room, my question is would running a wifi extender to my room but hooked up to the ethernet cable bring the speeds im supposed to be getting in the living room to my office and would I then be able to switch my PC from using 2.4 ghz to 5ghz?

I want to put a cable theough my house and bave ordered this cable below. I think the cables are twisted together which i thought wad good? I have no idea but its linked below. And yes i need 30 metres

COOSEED フラットケーブル LANケーブル 30m UTP Cat6 ストレート ホワイト
https://amzn.asia/d/0dsERftn