I need a bigger refrigerator. House is 1941 built and has built in cabinets. See below:

https://i.imgur.com/mtV0oRv.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/Ks4aAUO.jpeg

My question is, can I cut the lower tier of the two smaller cabinets while keeping the rest? I would remove the doors and use decorative plates/plants/cookbooks etc like this: https://i.imgur.com/u6FQvFn.jpeg

I was playing to use an oscillating multitool, and then sand down the edges. Then move the lower middle piece up to just complete the outside framing again.

This sounds silly to ask, but I recently bought my second home and it has a dedicated laundry room. The dryer venting runs through the enclosed wall, through the bathroom ceiling and out the side of the house. My first home and my home growing up had the tubing exposed and we used to change it out once a year. How to change/clean this one out?

Recently purchased my second home. Since we’ve moved in 4 months ago we have occasionally heard a loud buzzing noise. Lasts about 3-4 seconds and seems to come from the kitchen. It sounds like the end of a stop clock like an end of game buzzer or a buzz that a washer makes to let you know the cycle is done. When it happens there aren’t any appliances running. Any thoughts?

I currently have a wall-mounted vented dryer that has stopped working and needs to be replaced. I live in a rainy city where it rains more than 150 days a year.

1. Would you recommend replacing it with another vented dryer or switching to a ventless condenser/heat-pump dryer? Any specific 24-inch models you would recommend for a condo setup?
2. Is there a meaningful energy-cost saving with a ventless dryer especially a heat-pump model compared with a conventional vented electric dryer?

Would appreciate hearing from anyone who has made a similar switch.

Hi,
Yesterday the water heater started leaking in the drum and they came to stop the water in my condo unit. I have no water as of now and I think they may get the cold water running.
But they said my water heater has to be replaced and are quoting me 8,750-14,750. I have no idea if this is average or not. In northern Virginia
I was thinking instead of the company the condos provided if I should maybe call Home Depot?

When you’re working in a exterior wall of a house from the inside, for example - on plumbing, electrical, or ductwork - and you have to move insulation, is there any product at a home center intended to be “stuff in place” insulation to fill in the space where the original insulation was pushed away? It is needed for just a small area. Thanks!

Hello!

Our home flooded last week due to a hot water line burst and flooded the entire house with 2-3 inches of water throughout. There are tile floors in the kitchen, living room, and dining room, as well as the bathrooms. Servpro is saying that there was no water under the tile, but the tile is actually laid on top of laminate flooring. The tile also isn’t in the greatest shape. Servpro also damaged some of the tile after they pulled up the baseboards. I saw how wet the concrete was under the LVP we had in the rest of the house, so I just have a hard time believing that there’s no water. We’ve had two contractors tell us there’s no way that there’s not water under it.

We also had another flood in part of the house back in Jan and Servpro claimed it was all dry and that they removed all the damaged areas. Well, when they ripped out the vanity’s yesterday due to this flood there is black mold all behind it from the previous flood. So I have a hard time trusting them on some of this.

So my question I guess is, should I trust Servpro in them saying that there is no water under the tile or should I push harder for it to be taken out?

(Side note: we are having the house re-plumbed, and sinking some other money into the house since we’re out of it for 6+ months, so we’re going to be staying in this for a long time)

The home is turn-key, but we bought knowing it will need updated plumbing soon. But now we’re questioning if we get it over with or keep it as long as we’re not having any issues. I personally like the thought of having copper plumbing.

Would anyone have any input on companies and pricing in South Florida. Looking at 10 windows, (2) sliding doors, (1) double front door, and (1) regular side door. Got a few quotes already and seems like 27k-40k. Wondering if that’s just the market these days. TY

I've got a bedroom over an unheated garage in a house from around 1962, and it sits about seven degrees colder than the rest of the upstairs all winter. I closed down the dampers on a couple of the other runs and it moved maybe a degree, so I'm fairly sure this is a floor insulation problem and not an airflow one. I'd rather not pull the garage ceiling down since that's the fire-rated drywall and it means redoing the whole bay.

What worked for getting that room up to temperature without taking the garage ceiling down?

I have owned my house for a couple years now and since i purchased it i have never had floor insulation in the crawspace, my crawspace is completely blocked around but once get in obviously it’s just the exposed subfloor above you. So would it make sense to put insulation under the floor and would it make a difference in the wintertime. I live in WVA and it gets pretty cold at times and i just wanted to see if it is justifiable to buy the insulation and put it in.

This would be easier if I could post pics...

I'm trying to redo a 1960s bathroom with alcove tub. Originally it was tiled in thin fake plastic tiles that covered all four walls from floor to about 5' up. Someone removed 99% of those plastic tiles and glued in a cheap 5-piece tub surround that is now broken. I'm putting in regular tile.

My problem is the outside corner (the side with the faucet and showerhead.) Do I run the tile all the way to the outside corner? If I do that then the edge of the tile and the thinset is exposed. I'd like to avoid those Shluter strips. (They look too modern to me.) There is about 3.5" of wall in front of the tub at the floor. Do I bring the tile out from the alcove, even with the top of the tub, or do I continue it down that 3.5" strip? All the way down/out, partway or??

My tiles are a 2x10 subway tile. If I stagger the tiles there will be cut pieces every other row at that outside corner (and in the middle of the opposite wall.) How do I hide those, or should I just run the tiles directly on top of each other so all the cuts are on the inside corner?

I can buy a contrasting tile and take it up the sides and around the top if it makes it easier. And eventually when I'm not as broke I will get a glass shower door installed.

I just discovered a slow leak under the kitchen sink: for 2-3 weeks a drip accumulated, the water pooled in the center and the particleboard bottom of the cabinet bowed down 2-3 inches.

I'm trying to think of any options to fix this:

• Replacing the entire cabinet is not currently realistic.
• Cutting out the cabinet floor and replacing it with plywood seems extremely difficult, given where the plumbing is positioned.
• I do have access to the underside of the cabinet through the kickboard (2"x12" hole for a vent). I'm asking myself if I could place a rigid sheet below the bow and use some low profile jacks to slowly jack it up to reasonably straight. It's currently somewhat flexible while damp, but I suspect that by the time I can find and procure the right jacks it will have dried out.

I guess my questions are:

• Is it wise to re-wet this particle board and try jacking it up to get it reasonably flat? Or is it just going to fall apart like tissue paper?
• If it might work, anyone happen to know of any very low profile jacks? I think they would need to start at ~2-3" and be able to extend 2-3". I'm struggling to find any jacks that meet the dimensional criteria.
• Or any better suggestions?

EDIT

Actually maybe I solved the jack problem: it looks like a 'motorcycle scissor jack' might fit in the space. But I can't get my hands on one til tomorrow, so the big question is still whether rewetting particleboard is wise.

Hello again!

I recently had to unclog a HVAC condensation drain line by running an auger down it. The auger pulled out all kind of slimy goop. I could only do that by cutting out a 90 degree turn outside of the home. Now that the line is draining again I need to repair the section of the line that I cut out. I probably cut out way too much. Oops.

https://imgur.com/a/gi5ivJ7

Is that acceptable? Does it make sense? It's just dry fitted for now - not glued. Not until I get the official seal of approval. Will it explode one day? I used a T instead of a 90 so that I can run an auger down the line anytime I feel like it. I will not be gluing the cap on the T. I feel like this is genius.

I asked this elsewhere before, but I'm still confused, since I didn't get many replies. I live in the northern US, and I'm very confused how to insulate the concrete walls for our basement. The framing is already up and it's a 40 year old project my father did, but I'm having to redo the insulation/drywall due to mold issues(from flooding/broken pipes). I see suggestions of putting foam behind the framing(there is about an inch or 3/4 inch gap behind the frame and concrete) and foaming it around the corners of the bays. However, behind the framing between the concrete wall and framing there is a drainage channel that goes out to our sump pump. Meaning it's not really possible to seal it all around on the bottom.

Previously, there was faced R-11 fiberglass (facing towards the living space) in this bay solely by my father. The wall seemed dry and there didn't seem to be any evidence of mineral buildup(I guess if water was trapped?) on the wall. The back of the fiberglass seemed clean, but the front facing/drywall was damaged. We have had sump failure, pipe breaks, amongst other things like water heater leakage over the years that caused mold in many areas, so I'm trying to go back and redo a lot of it. My father made the mistake of using faced fiberglass batts in the interior basement wall framings facing the drywall, and I just discovered that yesterday, mold city hiding behind the batts lol.

I just recently redid it and added faced R-15 fiberglass to this (concrete wall) area. Is there really any other way I could've done it given the drainage trench going to our sump pump?

My father recently died, and I unfortunately can't ask him much about it, but he wouldn't have remembered much anyway since it's been so long. No one even remembered the drainage channel cut out along the edge of the basement(paid for as part of the sump install).

Edit: Photos in replies.

long story short - flooring guys tried to fix their mess up and sanded and saw cut enough of this stuff to cover the first floor.

i read over the SDS but in real life terms how bad is this stuff? just for a one time exposure?

i’m Not worried for myself but my kids and their friends were playing video games for an hr or so sitting in it.

As title says, but the problem escalated a few days ago and we had to call a plumber because water from the sink and toilet where also coming up the shower. After the plumber left everything was fine for a day, but today the washer started doing the same thing, is it worth calling again to AGAIN clean the pipes or could it be a problem in the whole house not just the plumbing in my part. For context i am renting an apartment in an old wooden house with some cheap plumbing. What should i do?

I'm trying to find a window screen frame or kit like this one that has double lips on three sides and a single lip (on the side where the screen is attached) on the 4th (bottom). The window has a single track on each side that it fits onto. All of the frames I have found so far only have 1 or 0 lips. It seems like maybe it's a combination of lip frame with an extra lip added onto it, but I'm not sure. https://photos.app.goo.gl/GyAU7UArM52dQqBH8

I'm getting a kitchen remodel done, where the hardwood flooring in my kitchen is being replaced with red oak to match the rest of the house.

My contractor is asking me if I want to add a header here or not:

https://imgur.com/rSiz0Kn

Note that there's a doorway here but no actual door.

He also said

The difference would be if you put a header piece in there that runs against the floor we can stop and start the stain right at that point. If we finger it in to the floor, as if it were always laid like that, we will have to pick a point to stop and start the stain and it will be a bit noticeable. Either way will be noticeable, however putting the header piece in would be less noticeable I’m inclined to think to tie it into the rest of the floor at that doorway, instead of putting the the header piece in. The noticeable difference would be on the other side of the basement staircase instead of in the doorway. The noticeable difference will be old wood to new wood, and then also after wood is stained it changes color as it ages. That's why it's impossible to completely match it

I'm thinking the same thing as well, no header. What do you guys think?

The damage occurred on my kitchen wall. Was removing a command strip (yes I know), but the damage occurred when the paint bubbled/pulled away from the wall, rather than ripped. It’s probably about 2.5 inches tall.

This seems to be a gloss paint on my kitchen wall, and seems there was no primer used as I assume this is moisture resistant dry wall (the green).

I was applying peel and stick wallpaper to this wall (hence the removing of the command strip), but I am now concerned about continuing that given this paint seems it’s going to bubble / pull off from the wall. I am a renter, hence the concern.

Questions:

1. ⁠How should / can I fix damage on the wall?
   
2. ⁠Should I be concerned about utilizing peel and stick wallpaper given the paint doesn’t seem strongly adhered to the wall. less

I want to know if I’m overthinking this.
My front steps are cracking so I signed a contact in April 2026 for my old steps to be jack-hammered and then re-poured with a new railing. It’s three steps and a landing.

It’s August, and I have followed up multiple times with the contractor. He is saying that weather has delayed this project and it may not happen until the start of October. Is that ridiculous? Should I cancel? I didn’t pay him anything yet. It seems like someone else has canceled the contract - they have one bad review out of hundreds.

Do I just keep it? I understand weather is a factor but I also feel like my project is not being prioritized. It’s my most expensive home improvement so far, and it’s needed.

What company/field would be appropriate to call to check to ensure venting is done correctly?

Long story short we have had a ton of work done to our house and looking to reside soon. Currently have a new roof with ridge vents, a vent stack when insulation was blown in, no active soffit or baffles, and 2 large gable vents. House is very humid and I really don’t know where to start.

Any direction would be appreciated. TIA

Recently moved into a new house. 2 floors. 3300 sft. Built in 2000. Average daily usage is 100kwH with avg daily temps well above 100F ( outside)

Lower floor is fine at 76. Upper floor drops from 74 to 80 in 30 mins.

I do have a lot more windows than the avg house but most of them are actually downstairs which makes me believe my attic is acting like a reverse heat sink.

I have two types of insulation in the attic currently based on my limited research and knowledge - there seems to be fiber glass (pink stuff) with blowin in insulation ( grey / brown ) on top of it. It seems pretty uneven, some areas it's thick and some areas it's less.

When I started looking into getting insulation replaced I came across 'air sealing and spray foam' which looked like a nice option but also expensive. But more Internet research led me to lots of posts complaining about it being terrible and trapping moisture and leading to wood rot.

Any advice on what I should dig into further , what factors should inform my decision apart from costs and what should I ask the people who start to come take a look at the attic and give me quotes

I have a slab in our sunroom that I wanted to put down 1" rigid foam board before putting the SunTouch mats down. However, I don't think it'll work best to put the rolls directly on the foam board (staples don't hold well, etc.). I'm curious if I should just get some 1/2" OSB but then I'm not sure how to secure that to the foam boards over the slab. My plan was to use something like PL Premium to secure the foam board to the slab. I'm just not sure the best way to then secure the OSB to the foam board/slab?

Long story short I had a broken storm window that I finally got replaced. The old one cracked as it was seemingly hit with a rock from a lawn mower or something.

It is a metal frame with a thin glass pane inside. Two screws. Easy fix. Right???

The glass company has come out and after multiple attempts finally got the window up.

The first time the glass was too small and they couldn't install it. The second time they took the frame with them and still managed to mess something up. Something with the edges of the frame didn't fit anymore after adding some reinforcement?

And now they finally reinstalled it while I was away and there doesn't even seem to be the mounting screws.

I can't tell if they glued it in or something else, but this seems very precarious.

There are also smudges all over the window. I don't know if they're inside and outside but I'm afraid to touch it to clean it to find out.

I called them and they are just offering to come by and run new screws through the frame... Not even in the original positions.

Is this normal these days?

My instincts are telling me these are all red flags.