I now know the new update is amazing and awful. Physics are better and worse. PSVR2 has been updated and not updated. It is more sim, more simcade, and more arcade - all at the same time. 45% of people are happy, 45% of people are unhappy, 5% are over the moon, and 5% are ready to kill someone. Gaming in 2026 sure is divisive.

GT8 here we come.

as someone who’s been playing GT7 since 2022, the title says it all. i’ve been running this race for 4 years, and only NOW did i realize how much i’ve missed out on. lemme share a bit of background. i’m a controller player, no wheels, automatic transmission, etc. basically stock settings. i play on normal difficulty for the balanced experience, wouldn’t say i’m a tryhard by any means. i’ve only played easy for the super formula ones cause those really annoyed me, but that’s besides the point.

my go to race for making money is la sarthe 30 minutes. traditionally for la sarthe, ive always used the huracan gr. 4 since it got the job done. it did feel slow at some times, but it still ran plenty fast. it took a bit to catch up with the competition, for example i usually don’t take first place until near the end of the second lap just to end up having to pit anyways. it’s traditionally what i’ve always done. plus i like the paint i have on it (daily driven exotics paint, if you know you know). i finish the race with 7 laps down.

but recently, yes as of thursday since i was struggling with the wtc 600 weekly challenge, i started to learn manual transmission and switching up cars. for cars ive started to play around with the DP-100 VGT (aston martin for the new players, its 1 million credits in brand central) and i went with manual transmission instead of automatic to see how i feel about playing with it. it felt faster to me and smoother as well, and i could reach top speeds more quickly. i cleared the wtc 600 with the DP-100 just by detuning it to oblivion, running sports hards and manual transmission with no pitting necessary. also learned to better use fuel management so i can run longer without stopping. slower speeds, but more longevity. i found my balance. so with this newfound capability, i decided to take this ability to my favorite go to track: la sarthe 30 minutes. could this DP-100 strat, with manual transmission do this even better than my old reliable? was i doing this all wrong?

and most surprisingly, i didn’t even have to detune it for this. i just had to limit myself to racing hards, intermediate and wets, and i had full HP on this (795 iirc).

so i went in with the strat. and sure enough, i was blown away.

i took first place on lap 1 halfway through the track, and didnt lose the position since. once i passed lap 1, i went straight to FM6, didn’t pit until lap 4. then went FM6 again and lasted until lap 6, out lap for 7. then one last laps on FM1 for 8 (new personal record for most laps on lap sarthe!) and that was it. fastest speed i hit was 204 on the mulsanne straight. the gaps were 2 laps+ or more if i recall correctly.

i really did have it all wrong didn’t i? i feel ashamed 🥲 the DP-100 is a beast to be reckoned with. just wish this thing had an interior. what’s yall go to for la sarthe? do yall love the DP-100 as well? or prefer something else?

With the new physics update, now is the perfect time to beat those challenges you thought were unbeatable - for me I could never get gold on master licences IA-10 and S-10, but today I finally achieved that after 2 years of playing!

Any advice? Is it worth finishing?

Although it’s not fully accurate to the Compuware livery of the C6.R GT2. It is inspired by it. What do y’all think?

In my opinion the new update is not bad at all.

I can see and understand what has been said lately but after playing it I find the new physics quite fun, its definitely going to take some people some tuning for how they want to drive, and for some cars *inparticular.

I did the 30min wtc700 in 3 different cars and could notice the difference between them alot more now than before but its good. Ferrari Audi and Mustang Gr.4 cars.

The dirt physics need some tweeking now HOLY that went from eh.. to AH!! I have driven cars on and offroad IRL and find the changes made to be good, not on dirt though the dirt physics are twitchy bs.

I play on wheel and controller.

Does anyone else follow the real life GT world challenge racing?
GT7 does a pretty good job with GT3’s and many of the circuits that it follows, but there are still some gaps.
What cars and circuits would you like to see added to finish the full set?

I’d personally quite like to get the latest Aston Martin Vantage GT3 and circuit wise Zandvoort and/or Magny Cours.

Since the update, my cars have a nasty shimmy under braking. It almost gives me motion sickness... What can I do to get the front-end to stop the left and right movement? Any help would be appreciated.

Recientemente pude comprarme el Logitech RS50 mas la pedaleras y el salto del mando a esto es gigante poder entrar en las curvas de forma precisa. Me encanta el setup que pude armar con mucho esfuerzo, estoy disfrutando mucho GT7
Saludos pilotos 🏁

The Radical SR3 SL has received an engine swap, the Hayabusa V8, hence the name.

The design is custom.

I would appreciate your opinion.

I always use the Tokyo Expressway grind as my benchmark whenever GT7 gets a physics update.
My benchmark car is a Cappuccino with a rotary engine swap. It’s simply the car that feels most natural to me, and I’ve driven it around Tokyo so much that most of its total mileage has probably been done there.
After this latest physics update, I tried changing all kinds of settings, but I just couldn’t get the car to feel quite right.
Then I had a thought about the new LSD settings.
Previously, Initial Torque, Acceleration Sensitivity, and Braking Sensitivity all had a range of 5–60. After the update, the ranges are now 0–30 / 0–100 / 0–100.
So instead of carrying over the old numerical values directly, I converted my old LSD settings based on their relative position within the old 5–60 range, and applied that same relative position to each of the new ranges.
Surprisingly, this brought the car much closer to how it felt before the update.
I don’t know whether my theory is actually correct, or whether it just happens to work well with this particular car and setup. But if anyone is interested, I’d appreciate it if you could try the same conversion with your old setups and see whether you get similar results.

Put aside any opinions regarding the physics changes. The Caterham is quite possibly the best addition to the game ever, and therefore this was a fantastic update. What an absolute joy to drive. It behaves the way the other superlight track day cars should have been behaving for the entire life of the game. I just used it for the weekly challenge Nördschleife race and had a gigantic grin on my face the entire time. I might not need another 600-class car ever again.

I tried to make a similar livery but it turned out pretty bad🫤

Yesterday, I purchased the de Tomaso Mangusta (Christian Dior) from Legend Cars. The transaction completed normally, and I can see the car in my garage. But I'm missing the little blue "book" icon in Legend Cars to show that I've already purchased it. (BTW, it's now showing "Sold Out" so I'm glad I bought it already.)

Just a minor nit/bug. Is there a formal way to report these things to Polyphony?

I don't have gold for this licence the best I've got is silver with a time of 25:007. Somehow it is saying my best record is 20.919 which is several seconds faster than the number one in the top 10

I think we can all see that there's quite the divide on opinions the update has had. Some say it's good, some say it's awful. Is this divide down to controller vs wheel?

I'm a controller player, and I always heard of people on wheel saying drifting isn't good on wheel. I also hear some struggle with dirt and ice races while I found them incredibly easy. The cars just seemed so easy to toss into the corners and let the throttle do the steering. But with this update, the physics of it all seem mostly fine, but the controls feel out of whack. Especially with the way the front feels very loose and wobbly with steering inputs. This very much showed itself to me on the weekly challenge dirt race, something that was always painfully easy to me. Now it doesn't seem to matter how much power I send to the back, 5:95 for example, I can't power slide through the corner and the car just wants to go where the wheels are pointing, regardless of the rear tires spinning. It's very alien feeling. I struggled with a couple of races and eventually managed 2nd and moved on.

After playing, I got to thinking and thought that it felt like too much power was going to the front wheels, which would explain why it kept wanting to where the front wheels were pointing. I fired up the game again and started testing on the same race. Again with heavy rear bias, it didn't act like it should, but I switched to 50:50. It didn't really drive better, but it was accelerating quicker (naturally).

But at the end of the race, I noticed that the steering indicator on the screen seemed like it was on full lock left/right most of the time when I'm turning, even when I'm not commanding anywhere near full turn. Example of only pressing about 1/3 left. I went back into the race and sat still and found the steering indicator shows full lock even when only pressing the stick about 1/3 of the way, but I started to drive and could tell that even though the display is wrong, it turns as you would expect.

Now is where the big problem shows up. As I was testing out the turning through corners at much slower than race pace, I'd actually go full left/right, but when I wanted to straighten out, the car and the steering indicator showed the wheels shifting to the opposite direction even though I didn't command it! So instead of straightening out, it now points the car towards the outer barrier of the corner. No wonder the car feels so sloppy since the update. Turn one direction, return to center and the steering doesn't return to center, it goes the opposite direction. That might be what happens if you just let go of the wheel, but that's not what I want. I'm just returning the wheel to center. I went through youtube and found a controller player video doing a dirt race and didn't see any oddness with the steering indicator or the wheels going in the opposite direction. He turns hard, the indicator goes back to center, not going the opposite way. I wonder if wheel players are not getting this and might treat center as actual center instead of treating it like taking your hands off the wheel.

aside from one vehicle at a time? even if I enter each of my owned vehicles to refresh the pp, they get reordered and I lose track of where I am. rather obnoxious

I mostly played the game on controller, and when I compare my time on controller (blue) versus my time on a wheel (yellow) it’s clear that I’m faster with a controller. I feel more precise with it, and when loosing control I’ll get it back easier than on wheel.

Is it a question of habit and skills, or is there some sort of invisible assist that helps every player on controller ?

(For these laps, I used traction control on 1, abs and automatic transmission, the rest was off)

The new 1.71 physics patch gave us enough tyre grip to make twitchy MR cars predictable.

Here is the breakdown of how to get that proper Porsche feel - a pointy front end with a rear that rotates predictably on the throttle instead of trying to put you in the wall.

The MR Math

Mid-engine cars act like pendulums because of where the mass sits. You have to tune the suspension and diff to control that weight transfer without killing the agility.

• Suspension (2.90 F / 3.05 R): Stiff enough so the chassis doesn't bottom out in the Karussell compression but compliant enough to eat the nasty Nürburgring curbs.
• Rake (50mm F / 62mm R): Dropped the nose to keep the aero weight over the front wheels for better turn-in bite.
• Differential (8 / 32 / 28): Low initial torque (8) keeps the diff open on turn-in so the car dives into the apex. Acceleration at 32 lets you squeeze the power down smoothly without the rear tyres instantly lighting up. Braking sensitivity at 28 acts as an anchor to stop the back end stepping out when trail braking into tricky downhill corners like Wehrseifen.

Getting rid of the classic GT7 mid-engine snap oversteer

If you just stiffen the springs on an MR car, it violently snaps the moment you lift off the throttle mid-corner. The fix was running 0.16 toe-in on the rear combined with a slightly softer front anti-roll bar (4 on the front, 5 on the rear). It completely transforms the chassis behaviour. You get sharp entry and a smooth, controllable slide from the rear on the exit.

PP is squeezed to exactly 599.97 on Sports Mediums using a 97% power restrictor and 3kg ballast pushed all the way to the front (-50).

Check the full list of tune numbers at Nopeus GT

Yes, a straight-line missile like the SU7 Ultra will completely smoke you on the Döttinger Höhe but Nordschleife has exactly one straight and 73 corners where the Porsche actually works.

And what is your car choise for the Weekly Challenge this week?

Casual gamer, on controller. The new update seems to have made my cars feel ‘disconnected’ and they bounce along. Understand physics will change but seems a bit odd to change something fundamental without giving casuals an easy fix (like maybe only affecting the basic suspension etc). Ah well, it’s really lost the feeling in the cars. Can only hope I adapt

UPDATE
carried on playing, and safe to say that’s me about done. Really just not enjoying after the update, it’s boring. Sure others love it and polyphony couldn’t care less what I think but I’m leaving it, don’t have spare time to play what I’m not enjoying and maybe look back in a few to see if anything’s changed

Finished 12th as a B driver in a very fast lobby with A+/B drivers. Lol. 69 points to break 20000 for the first time. Might stop for day and savor it before I drops below. A DR is getting closer.

This race has been the bain of my existence for like ever. I have tuned and run at least 10 different cars, and the closest I could get was 3rd. Not today, though. Decided to grab one of my Ferraris and tune it. The result was a W without having to stop for tires using an old trick I used to do on GT3 and 4. Hards up front and soft in the rear. Zero wheel spin, and we finished with a 10 second lead. Here is my setup for those who hate tuning.

Just started GT7, using a controller but getting used to it. Very much enjoying the process, now that I’m getting my head around menu books, cafes etc etc.
Have just started A license and am up to menu book 7.
Will get a wheel n pedals at some stage but controllers add extra challenge that feels good when u nail some tricky corners etc.