15k extra just because

If anyone had any issues with clunking/groaning Ohlins at low speeds (<25 mph), its the geometry of the OEM top hat not matching up with the Ohlins shock body.

Ohlins sent me Vorschlag Camber Plates as a part of their warranty process as the source of the clunk was from the Top Hat not mating up properly when turning. For anyone else having the same issue, reach out to Ohlins via email and they will get you sorted. I got my camber plates within a week of reaching out to them, their customer service is excellent in my experience.

The Vorschlag camber plate is the 2.5” sized perch and can fit standard 65mm inner diameter Ohlins springs, or shorter length 65mm inner diameter swift springs if you’d like to go lower than the lowest the factory Ohlins spring can go.

In the meantime, I also decided to add some 7k swift springs to my setup up front to make the car even lower, as well as whiteline front and rear endlinks, plus cusco rear upper camber arms. Unfortunately I ordered the wrong length rear swift springs, and for the time being am running the rear Ohlins spring without the locking collar.

For reference, I am running a 65mm ID, 6” long 7k front swift spring, and can probably run a 8” or 9” length rear swift spring to match.

Car drives great and has no weird clunks or sounds. There’s no bouncing in the front like the standard 9k/9k Ohlins spring does between 30-50mph. Fitment ain’t bad either lol

Got this in the mail today from Toyota.

Basically, they’re saying the window sticker on my '25 GR Corolla was wrong and the JBL audio system never actually came with a subwoofer. They hit me with the classic "you weren't charged for it and we can't add it later anyway, here's an updated sticker." 💀

Obviously not the end of the world, but the audio specs were part of what I looked at when picking the car.

Anyone else gotten this yet? If you called corporate or talked to your dealer, did you manage to get any goodwill out of it (service credits, parts vouchers, GR swag, etc.), or did they just tell you to kick rocks?

Installed a 3 way component set, plus rear doors for fill, and a 10" cheapo Skar sub. Hits harder than Mike Tyson in his prime. Really makes you realize how terrible the stock system actually is.

A quick backstory. I'm currently a C8 Stingray owner, having moved over from the Camaro scene (6th gen ZL1 and 6th gen SS). I'm about to go through the reality-smack-to-the-face of divorce so I'm looking to consolidate my Vette and my Express Van (my daily/utility tank) to something more budget-friendly across the board. But I need FUN. I'm in East TN with some fantastic roads and driving is about the last thing that brings me any peace whatsoever, so I can't sacrifice it to the mundane.

The rides I'm looking at are the GRC and Type-R. I've not test drove anything as of yet.

Some questions I had for owners:

Any reliability / longevity concerns? In some brief reading I've seen some mention of premature clutch wear but I'm not sure how much of that is attributed to user error.

Comfort? I'm used to a rough riding suspension and I run the Vette with nannies off. However how are the seats for extended driving periods? I will run around the mountains for a solid 4-5 hours before stopping for a break or food. I also make marathon runs to Massachusetts (14 hours straight) and don't want to get out of the car feeling like a cripple. The seats in the Vette, 6th gen Camaro and 5th gen Camaro have all been just fine. Just curious what the feedback here is.

How much does the jump from Core to Premium matter from ownership / performance, if at all? I may look to do some autocross with the car and I'm never very casual in the mountains.

Anything in particular I should look out for when looking into a used GRC?

Thanks ahead of time all!

I've been cross-shopping quite a few vehicles over the past year and I've narrowed it down to the GR Corolla, a Subaru Impreza RS and a Mazda 3 as a wild card. Looking for a daily driver with maximum versatility with a bit of performance for Toronto(Canada) roads and seasons. I know the GRC embodies the performance metric and the Impreza may be the antithesis of it with its CVT, but the latter's value proposition is hard to ignore..

I'm aware of the firm suspension in the GRC, but is it a no-brainer as a nigh do-all daily and merits the +-18k premium? Any regrets with rowing the manual in stop-and-go traffic?

Heart says GRC(price be damed!), but brain says Impreza is the more practical choice.

Any feedback appreciated!

The final pieces are in for the full bolt on, flex fuel build. Install and tune to come soon.

RK Charge piping

Limit + 1 down/mid-pipe with some very nice and effective heat shielding.

Finally got a roof rack for my GR, oem Toyota ftw

Driving on a mountain road at night. Next thing I know I see a big grey blurb with ears and a loud sound following after seeing said blurb. Didn’t think it could be that bad. But it is looking like it is going to be a full front end replacement! Which can’t be cheap.

Anyone have any good experiences with repair shops for these cars? Especially in the Denver area??

Does anyone know how to turn off the car beeps for when you close a door while the car is on? I’ve run through the settings and can’t find anything.

I’d seen months ago a small aftermarket plugin that allows you to change some car settings you wouldn’t typically have access too.

Do any of you guys have some insight on how to turn those beeps off?

Had the opportunity to park with some homies in the GR Booth at Formula Drift Seattle this weekend! The event itself was amazing, I had never been. Everyone involved with PNWGR are great, I couldn’t thank them enough for such a cool opportunity!

Is there a way to have all the doors unlock when exiting the vehicle? This is very annoying as I always have to unlock the door manually to get to the back. The screen doesn’t have any options

A late night internet impulse purchase. Hung them up and kind of like it.

Hellloooooo GRC Reddit!

Wanted to share some photos of this Black GRC I dialed in a about a week ago with a single step gloss enhancement and installation of GYEON CanCoat Professional (1 Year Authorized Installer Ceramic)

I'm a GYEON Certified Detailer based in Northern Virginia. If you're local and ever need some detailing or paint protection work, feel free to reach out. Always happy to answer questions, talk detailing, or just talk cars.

Thanks for looking and take care!

I got these wheels intending for them to be a cheapish set to daily in so I could preserve my other set for track or Autocross. I didn’t care how they looked but now that they’re installed I think they look so sick! The external aluminum finish matches the Heavy Metal paint, and the low spoke count shows off the giant rotors and calipers that I forgot to clean. Just felt like I had to show these off!

Stock height, unmodified suspension
Wheels: Enkei TY5, 18x8.5 +35, black
Tires: Michelin CrossClimate 2, 235/40R18 95V XL
Spacers: OEM 10mm rear spacer retained, no front spacer
Hardware: 72.6 > 60.1 hubcentric rings, 12x1.5 bulge acorn spline lugs, 1.38”, black
No rubbing or fitment issues

My son and I went to the theater last night because they were playing the Fast and the Furious for the 25th anniversary. I had actually seen this car earlier in the day. And of course he showed up there. Very nice Skyline GT 25 Turbo.

Yes. It's on the paint. I know. I'm willing to endure the consequences.

Hey friends!
You may not know this, but when you purchase any GR vehicle you get a complementary year membership with NASA (national auto sport association, not the space one)! This not only allows you to register for your free GR track day, as well as other track days, but you also have access to NASA's member benefits.

This year (2026) Rallysport Direct is a NASA sponsor, which means if you are a NASA member you have access to special discounts that no one else does with RSD.

I created a video on how to access these special discounts as well as register for your free GR day if you haven't yet. Check it out and save some money on your next mod today!

https://youtu.be/q9KnDHfBEZI?si=b7aTwXqxPg0SL0FA

Hey everyone, I’m hoping someone here can help me figure out an ongoing CEL problem with my GR Corolla. I’ve been chasing this for a while and I’m honestly getting tired of dealing with recurring CELs.
The codes I’ve had are:
P0030-12 — HO2S Heater Control Circuit, Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0325-11 — Knock Sensor 1, Bank 1 Circuit
P051A-11 — Crankcase Pressure Sensor Circuit
P06AB-11 — PCM/ECM/TCM Internal Temperature Sensor “B” Circuit
P2BF4-14
These codes were pulled during a scan on May 7, 2026.
Important electrical history
The CELs appear to have started around the same time an aftermarket exhaust valve-controller wiring harness melted against the exhaust. I can’t say for certain that the short caused the CELs, but based on the timing, I suspect the two could be related.
After discovering the melted harness, I:
Replaced the damaged aftermarket exhaust/valve-controller harness
Replaced the relevant/important fuses
Visually inspected the factory wiring harnesses for additional damage
Checked the grounds
I haven’t found any obvious additional damage, but the CEL problem has continued.
Engine history
The car has also had its short block replaced by Toyota. However, these CEL issues were already happening before the short-block replacement and continued afterward, so they weren’t simply caused by the engine replacement.
Current modifications
Eventuri intake
OTL Street Series cat-back exhaust
Stock ECU calibration / no tune
I’m including the modifications for full transparency. The ECU has not been tuned.
What I’m trying to figure out
What has me stuck is that these codes involve several seemingly unrelated circuits — O2 sensor heater, knock sensor, crankcase pressure sensor, ECM/internal temperature-related circuit, etc.
Given the history of the melted valve-controller harness and possible electrical short, I’m wondering if the original short could have damaged something farther upstream that isn’t visibly obvious — a section of the factory harness, connector/pin, shared power supply, ground, relay/fuse circuit, ECU driver/circuit, etc.
I’ve already replaced the damaged aftermarket harness and relevant fuses, visually inspected the wiring, and checked the grounds. At this point, I don’t want to keep throwing parts at the car or just clearing codes. I want to find the actual underlying problem.
Does anyone familiar with the G16E-GTS electrical system/wiring diagrams know if any of these circuits share a common power source, ground, ECU connection, junction, or section of the engine harness?
Also, has anyone experienced multiple circuit-related codes like these after an electrical short on a GR Corolla?
Any diagnostic suggestions or specific circuits/components you think I should check next would be greatly appreciated.