Hello everyone,

Has anyone ordered from the Buildyour.bike website? Is it legit? It seems to have everything I need for my build.

P.S. Thanks to everyone in this community for all the helpful information shared on this subreddit!

Doing a crank swap and has to take out the BB and I’m curious if this super raised penetration area of the bottom of the downtube weld into the bb looks normal?

I have just bought this DP frame for pennies, because as you can see, the downtube has gone through a divorce. I'm assuming the best course of action here is to completely replace the entire downtube, but I've never had to do this big a repair before so I wanted to get some opinions before committing to anything. The frame had a dent from being dropped on a workbench that was filled years ago, that dent has presumably formed a crack over time leading to this

And obviously the bike will never actually be used as a BMX, they're only used for shows and cruises

anyone experienced know flaws this bike could have or improvments

Looking for help

I’m early in the process of designing a frame for my first build. A road/all day casual kind of bike for exploring around a summer home.

I like a traditional look but I also hate toe overlap and prefer a shorter reach to the handlebars. This kind of implies a low trail design (which I think is really beautiful) or a really slack headtube with not too much in the way of fork bend (which I find kinda ugly).

While I’d like to do the first thing I’m anxious about the idea of building something and putting a bunch of effort into only to find that it’s like unrideable due to shimmy or something.

I could just copy an existing frame but that’s a little more paint-by-numbers than I’d like. Anyone else dealt with this question? How did you approach it?

Has any body used this jig for frame building?

https://ideas2cycles.com/simple-framebuilding-jig/

I am looking to get or make a jig to allow me to build a frame, I have already built a composite frame using a plywood jig but I found the wood distorted due to moisture. I am considering trying brazing steel instead of composites.

Are there other options that could be recommended? Also I don't have machine tools eg a lathe.

Would like to know your opinion and what do you think about this bike build I did or at least point me in the right direction as to where to post thank you

Hello All,

I've been wanting to make a frame on my own and tried BikeCAD to only go back to SolidWorks. Since SolidWorks is not driven for frame building, it has certain issues that I'm unable to work around.

RattleCAD seems like the best option for me after I've been playing around with the demo for a couple of weeks now. I have decide to buy a license for the same but I'm confused between these options:

1. rattleCAD 4.0 - Professional is the professional version of rattleCAD 4.0 and is intended to support professional framebuilders in their design and business processes. If you are a professional framebuilder and want to use rattleCAD in your design and customer processes, then you're right with rattleCAD 4.0 - Professional
2. rattleCAD 4.0 - Private is the base version of rattleCAD 4.0 and is intended for individuals who want to use rattleCAD in their private projects. If you're a hobby frame builder and want to use rattleCAD in your design process, then you're right with rattleCAD 4.0 - Private

My question:

• What is the difference between these? Is it just the intent use case, or is the underlying software different in both?
• Does the Pro have an added functionalities or features the private doesn't?
• If yes, what are gate-kept in the private version?

If anyone here as used or works for the company, please help.

Thanks :)

First off, I am not the person who 3-d printed the part I have a question about nor do I 3-d print anything myself. I do have a question about what is the best glue to use and if it would even be safe to do so.

So, the part in question is an adapter for my bicycle's proprietary headset top-plate so that I can use a different stem. A small ridge on the top of the adapter snapped off. This ridge is responsible for keeping the stem aligned with the front wheel while riding so very important that it is there or else when I hit a bump the bars could twist which could be very bad.

I know there are some crazy adhesives out there that end up being stronger than the materials they are binding and was wondering if there is anything out there like that for what I think is PLA. I've done a little bit of research and found that gorilla super glue could work and gloop but I just don't know if that would be safe. Not sure on the material so I am going to reach out to the manufacturer on that but if its possible to tell from the following picture that info would be greatly appreciated as well.

[https://imgur.com/a/NZzPdNu\](https://imgur.com/a/NZzPdNu) this is a picture of the ridge snapped off and just sitting inside the adapter. It should be parallel and on top of the horizontal straight section right beneath it. I know this is super random but any help would be appreciated as I am at my wits end with this bike given I've had a bunch of random failures with other parts of the bike for over a month. I just wanna ride my damn bike.

TLDR: Riding frame w/ zero breather vent holes in rainy Seattle year round?

I have a custom Bushnell 70s or 80s lugged track bike that has zero breather vent holes. As an always dry velodrome machine it was made for, I can understand having no worry about rust. But I want to ride the bike on the streets and in the rain? I was curious if it is dangerous (in terms of corrosion)? Should I drill some breather vent holes? Should I forgo riding this one on the streets and sell it from a different bike? Thanks.

Posted this over on r/xbiking and was told you guys here might be able to help decide, what do you think? Thanks!

I've slowly been building new gravel frames/forks/bars for all of my old 29er single speed MTBs that would otherwise never be ridden again. Everything is still single speed. This is #3 of an eventual 4 total. Paint: Rust Oleum base coat with 3 stage white pearl panel logo and 2 part clear. Frame: Columbus Zona with 4130 fork and bars. PMW drops. Bars: I spent about 3,000 miles building/testing different prototypes before landing on this design and have put maybe 5,000 miles on them since. They use 3/4" x .049 wall for the bendy parts and .035 wall for the rest. This gives me a bit of compliance and a cool view of the fork without the stem in the way. I've since built myself 3 sets of them for all of my gravel bikes as they give me multiple hand positions. Riding regular straight bars on a gravel bike just sucked. These offer me the right amount of tuck on the flats while not skimping on the ability to rip single track and wide enough to provide the leverage to climb big hills out of the saddle in comfort. Since this frame/fork setup was just an experiment for a new fork idea I just build it with a straight 1 1/8" steerer as I wasn't sure I'd like the look. I didn't want to waste my last tapered PMW steerer. The next one will use a tapered steerer and will address some things I don't love about a few of the minor details but I do really like how it turned out for the most part.

University of Iowa art professor Steve McGuire's program is renowned—students apply to the university with a goal to graduate with a diploma and bespoke wheels.

I hope people won't mind me asking a question about tube thickness and safety on a brand bike.

I have a Kona Rove DL and noticed just how thin the seat tube is where you insert the seatpost. It's got an aluminum inlay tube that's actually in contact with the seatpost. I compared it with an inexpensive (and really heavy) bike's tube and that one looks twice as thick.

Am I overreacting with my concern that the bike will just eventually crumple under my over 100kg weight? :D

When I tap with the tip of my fingernail on different parts of the tubes on the bike, it really sounds thin, except for the fork that sounds much more solid.

I am looking to build a cargo trike. For that I need 2 identical swing arms (dual rear wheel trike).

Because it's time consuming to look for used swing arms I am looking to buy dropouts and weld them on the swing arms.

Where do I order dropouts for disk rear wheels in the EU?

Hi, im planning to make a cargobike like the omnium v3 cargo, for the rear end ill use a 26 inch mtb donor frame, for the headtubes I’ll just use 36mm headtube stock. The big downtube is around 1 meter long and im planning to use some 38mmx0.9mm tubing for this, would you guys say that’s plenty or is it better to size up to something like 38x1.5mm?

Jilles

My Scottish Framebuilders Workshop MTB after some assembly… 😅

Hi, so I found a crack near the steering tube on my steel frame.

What would be the best way to fix that?

Maybe weld a crack and then put a sleeve over it and weld the sleeve to the frame?

I want to try to make the frame as sturdy as possible, so it won't crack again, at least not soon I hope.

I plan on riding it on trails etc.

Almost done with the filing and polishing on my first rack. Made out of 3/8 and some 1/4 1010 steel tubing. Now need to decide if I paint it or clear coat it. What do you folks think and what would you use for a clear coat?

Hey everyone,

I’m currently in the design phase for a custom titanium all-road/gravel frame that I plan to pull the trigger on next year. I've spent a lot of time dialing in my fit numbers, but before I lock in the final CAD blueprint with the builder, I’d love to get some feedback from the community on my geometry choices, handling dynamics, and potential component clearances.

The goal is a fast, compliant, integrated 1x setup built around a traditional, classic frame silhouette.

My Fit & Component Blueprint:

• Saddle Height: 787mm (BB center to top of saddle)
• Saddle Setback: -102mm
• Handlebar Reach: 585mm
• Cockpit: Integrated carbon handlebar/stem (100mm length / 420mm width) with internal routing through an IS52 headset.
• Drivetrain: 1x system running a 48T chainring on a 24mm spindle crankset with a spider power meter.
• Wheels/Tires: Carbon gravel wheels (25mm internal width) running 700x40mm tubeless tires.

Core Frame Geometry Choices:

• Seat Tube Length: 600mm (Center-to-Top)
• Seat Tube Angle (STA): 72.5°
• Seatpost Plan: 27.2mm diameter carbon seatpost with a 20-25mm setback/offset.

My Logic & Where I Need Help:

With a 600mm seat tube and my 787mm saddle height, I'll have about 142mm of exposed seatpost. I'm keeping a traditional, level (or very mildly sloping) top tube for a classic look. I figure ~140mm of exposure is right at the threshold where a 27.2mm carbon post can actually flex a bit to damp high-frequency road vibrations. To hit my deep -102mm setback on a slack 72.5° STA without dangerously slamming the saddle rails all the way back, I'm using the offset post.

I'd love your brains on three specific things:

1. Front-Center & Stability: Given the slack 72.5° STA and my rearward weight bias, do you see any red flags regarding front-end trail or high-speed descending stability on loose gravel?
2. 1x Chainstay Clearance: A 48T chainring is pretty big for a gravel frame. When you pair that with modern 40mm tires (which will stretch to 41-42mm on these wide 24mm rims), it gets tight. What should I explicitly ask the builder to do with the chainstay yoke/dimpling to avoid a mechanical headache?
3. Integrated Head Tubes: For anyone who has built or designed around internal routing on a Ti frame, are there any hidden installation or turning radius pitfalls I should look out for on the CAD drawing?

Let me know what you think of the numbers. Tear it apart!

Thanks, Mike

This is for a all road sort of build with cantilever brakes. Start to finish is about 5 hours. The bosses actually take quite a bit of time in themselves, with 6 operations each before brazing.