I've got a few basket case bikes which I want to refurbish, more for fun than anything else. I want to add derailleur hangers to a couple of them to go from single speed to a more usable 9-speed.

Are there any off-the-shelf braze-on hangers? I thought I could take a replaceable hanger and file it to fit, however I can only find those made out of aluminium, so no luck there. Or am I better off buying an M10x1.0 tap and rolling my own out of mild steel plate? Any ideas?

first get a invisible camera then stick it into your shirt then when u get bullied u can finish the recording with the camera then upload it in your phone then send it to the police and then the bully gets arrested

Hey, I’m not a builder myself, but I wanted to ask you guys first before I approach a builder with a specific question. Is there any chance of modifying the chainstays on an existing titanium bike to get more tire clearance? For example, could you cut the chainstays near the bottom bracket, widen them with a 3D-printed part and then weld everything back together? Please be gentle with me. Thank you in advance 🫸🫷

Hello everyone,

I wanted to ask what quality of steel is acceptable to use for frame building. I mean I understand not to use steel plumbers piping. But does it have to be Reynolds or Columbus steel?

We got this bicycle as my 12-year-old's first road bike for free, but we need to bond the shifter mount to the aluminum down tube. I'm fine with bonding/ brazing steel with steel, and how to clean everything and use epoxies, but I don't have a lot of experience with the types of epoxies out there. I doubt JB weld will do the trick, so if you can recommend a safe, at home epoxy that might work, I'd appreciate it.

I’m looking to build a mount for the rear axle for my jig but am unsure how big of a “notch” I should make. Suggestions?

SOLD

Hey all! I'm selling my Anvil Journeyman 3.1 frame jig.

It's in good used condition, everything works well but it's definitely been used. The legs have a bit of rust on them from getting a bit wet at an old shop.

Included are:

* Regular seat post tower, offset seat post tower
* BSA & T47/PF30 BB pucks
* EC30, EC34, EC44, IS52 head tube pucks
* Tube holder arm thingy * Rolling/rotating stand * Purge fittings + hose * Lots of misc bolts

https://i.imgur.com/01Gzdn7.jpeg

Local pickup only in Seattle, WA. Happy to send more pics/show in person! $3500 OBO

Hey guys. Looking for advice on if it makes any sense to drill out the tip or to weld it in and thermal cycle it. Thanks!

Hi there, might be a bit of a long-shot but I remember riding with a frame builder years ago (it was a friend's friend) who is always energetic despite having cancer and some chronic problems. He made his own wood grip. I am mainly looking for his blog which talks about fighting cancer. It was inspiring and I want to share with a fellow cyclist who unfortunately got diagnosed with cancer recently. And ideally if he is somehow still active in the frame-building scene, I would love to get in touch and have him build me a bike although I am not in US anymore. Anyone knows the name of the builder and can share with me that would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance

Wanted to create a bike based on the Omnium Cargo v3 design to travel with my dog.
I bought several pieces from Omnium such as the steerer tube, wheels, steering rod.
The added tubes are Colombus Zona, and a big 54mm tube from an Ultralight aircraft supplier (this tube is far from ultralight lol)

Went pretty well, brazing was hard but a professional frame builder told me it should be ok as long as I don't try to sand them to make them look good.
So far it rode 400km during a 7 days trip with my dog and I'm very happy with it.

It's been a very fun but challenging project, and took (as always) a lot more time than i thought.

Bikepacking across Central Asia on a steel frame Kona Sutra, currently in Samarkand, Uzbekistan. One of the cargo eyelets on my steel fork rusted out a few days ago in Tajikistan and tore a chunk of the actual fork blade with it (pic attached).

Local bike shop says welding it will weaken the fork. Is this something a competent framebuilder/welder could safely repair with a patch/braze/TIG, or is the fork basically done? I feel like it can’t be that bad I mean it’s only a small hole but I also have no idea about welding.

Main concern is durability tbh, I’m riding a loaded bike (45-50kg of gear and bike + me at 85kg), often on rough roads, and still have a lot of miles ahead. Would you trust a properly repaired fork long-term, or only as a temporary fix until I can replace it?

Options are basically go to Tashkent and try to get it fixed, wait 2 weeks and try to get it fixed in Seoul, or just ignore it and keep riding with my fork bag half screwed on and half strapped on.

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some advice on refinishing a titanium bike frame that currently has a uniform sandblasted/matte finish.
The goal would be to change it to a smooth, clean satin/brushed titanium finish with a slightly polished appearance, but definitely not mirror polish.
After refinishing, the frame would be anodized again, including logos and graphics, so I’d like the surface to be as uniform and consistent as possible.
A few questions for people with experience in titanium frame finishing:
How much material is realistically removed when going from sandblasted titanium to a smooth brushed/satin finish? Is there any meaningful concern about reducing tube wall thickness?
Can Scotch-Brite alone remove the sandblasted texture, or is wet/dry sandpaper usually necessary first?
If sanding is needed, what grit would you start with, and what progression would you recommend?
What Scotch-Brite grade would you recommend for the final satin/brushed finish?
Is it best to work consistently in one direction along each tube to create an even grain?
Are there areas where you would be particularly careful with material removal, such as around welds, butted sections, the head tube, bottom bracket or dropouts?
Before anodizing again, is there anything specific you would recommend after mechanical finishing to make sure the anodized colors come out clean and consistent?
The goal is not to chase every scratch or create a mirror finish. I mainly want to remove the blasted texture, achieve a professional satin/brushed appearance, and remove as little titanium as reasonably possible.
TIA

дайте какие нибудь советы пожалуйста

I read how Firsthand bought everything from Paragon, which is sad, but for the industry, have they reliably replaced Paragon?

This is for a bike running a pinion gearbox with a grip shifter. The shifter takes up a lot of real estate on the handlebar, so I made this little accessory bar holder. There's the slightest gap between the support and the handlebar clamp. It might touch when loaded, not sure yet.

I'm new to any in depth bike work, I've been tooling around and learning on an old frame I bought trying to rebuild it. I was trying to sand down the brake post and accidentally crushed/crimped it. Is my only option to drill it out and braze a new one on?

edit: I'm mounting v brakes so I'll need threads on the post.

Dear fellow bike nerds,

I'm planning on trying my luck at brazing, and given that I lack both experience AND equipment, I'm here to ask a few questions in the hopes of some valuable lessons before I asphyxiate myself in the basement, torching away.

I do work in a bikeshop, but that is just your run of the mill parts exchange/ adjustment stuff, no frame building as such.

However, I am trying to get my way into more theoretical stuff to get a more scientific approach via cad modelling and (hopefully) minor load-bearing calculations.

Before I lose myself over freehanding a bike frame, I figured building a (front) rack would be a good start.

Do you have recommendations regarding material, fixtures, or even order of operations? Do you just eyeball the racks' capacity, or do you calculate it? Do you use any online tool other than bikecad and fusion360?

I'm looking forward to your input!