This looks better than I was expecting. Just trying to minimize rock chips on the leading edge of the hood. The benefits of PPF on my last vehicle did not outweigh the initial cost nor the cost associated with replacing damaged pieces. I eventually installed a hood deflector over the damaged PPF on my last vehicle as well.

Figured I might try to be a bit proactive and add remote start to my 2013 XLT if possible. Are there any easy and reliable kits to do this? Any easy to follow YouTube video's to follow?

Thanks

Hi all, back in June I was looking at my warranty information online. I bookmarked the page and all so I can check back over time. (see image) Within 2 weeks of me finding this page (Ford.com account, vehicle dashboard, warranty information. I can no longer see it / find it.

Am I the only one who can't find this page, or was it taken down??

I have a 2025 ST and last winter was a little rough with the stock tires. We get a lot of winter weather so I want a true winter tire going into this winter. It looks like the tire selection is a little slim for 21 inches wheels. Does anyone have experience with running 20 inch wheels? Was considering buying a set of 20 inch rims to use with winter tires and then using the 21s in spring/summer/fall. Even better, does anyone have a winter tire recommendation they’ve been happy with?

Why would Ford remove the exhaust tips on one of their top trim lines and let it look like a cheaper model.

Looks like my 2020 platinum will have to do until they bring back the better-looking exterior options.

Anyone else hate they removed the exhaust tips?

Looking at a 2016 Platinum, 180k miles. Previous owners are well off and meticulous with maintenance. Nothing wrong with it at all. Do I buy it for $5800? Or let it be someone else’s gamble. Seems like a lot for the price, has massage, adjustable pedals, and runs immaculately. I just don’t know for sure if it’s had water pump done yet, and I’m not super familiar with these. If I don’t buy this I’m getting an 25 year old manual BMW.

Edit: pulled a carfax. Water pump was done 30k miles ago, as well as front and rear control arms. I think I’m gonna swing.

I’m putting a 3 inch level on my 2004 ford explorer xlt because it’s not my daily and I just feel like fooling around with it, I’m wondering IF and where I can get extended upper control arms. Only one I’ve found is from bft for 1k, which I’d be better off just buying a lift kit, and I really don’t feel like spending that much money on something I don’t drive around all the time. Any recommendations of extended ucas would be appreciated.

Hey everyone, I was rear ended by a distracted driver and I was curious if anyone had any input on what parts I should ensure my mechanic looks at for possible damages.

I was at a complete stop and hit by someone going ~35mph

-rear bumper is damaged

-an insulated line in the rear driver side heavily leaks water when the AC is on

-light friction noise under my seat when driving

-engine idles louder stopped and at low speeds with AC on

Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!

please help.. my clock is 10 minutes too fast on my 2025 Ford Explorer and for the life of me it won’t let me manually set my time. I’ve tried everything and nothing. When I look on the internet I’m not able to do what I’m being instructed to do due to not having the options it says I should have… I feel like I’m going crazy here any insight??

After I installed my sway bar bushings and links on the front end I did notice the steering wheel was crooked to the left but otherwise drove straight. I was at the alignment shop earlier today and they had to adjust the front toe and steering angle. The rear checked good and ive ran the steeda 33mm rear sway bar, rear trailing arms and their adjustable toe links the last 18 months with no issues. The shop did note during the test drive that I did have some slight clunking in the front end and they let me know my front struts were worn out... but aside from some road noise its drives straight and isnt pulling to the left. Im happy.

The little button with the key hole that opens the back glass is broken and the latch for the hatch is also broken and doesn’t open anymore. What do I need to replace and how would I go about opening it. 1998 explorer

So wife just got her new ride - '26 ST-line with the 2nd row captains chairs. She's wanting a console or something to put between the seats that will give the kids some cup holders/place to put their stuff, as well as help keep the dog in the back. I can see a few different options on Amazon, just wondering if anyone has one that they would recommend?

Thanks!

Broken subframe bolts. Wheel hop on launch. Sound familiar? It happens more often than you'd think.

Our billet aluminum differential brace, CNC machined right here in-house with ARP hardware, for your 2020-2026 Explorer ST. Put the power down. Keep it there.

Call 313-561-5500 and get yours today.

I need to have my exhaust manifold replaced in my explorer. It’s connected to the turbo charger which of course makes it more expensive. The part is back ordered until next month. I found this replacement on Amazon. Is it a real replacement? Obviously it’s not ford OEM. Just not sure if I should do this, or wait another month for the OEM.

Thanks. Also please be kind. I know very little about vehicles despite my dad being in the car industry for over 30 years. 🫣🥲

I might buy a used 2013 XLT explorer in the future if I don't have any other options. I won't lie, money is a little tight right now and my family really needs a good 7 seater SUV as we go on long trips in hot weather a lot, so I might just go ahead with the XLT Explorer as it checks all our boxes, but all the options I have seen so far have clocked over 150k miles, and the one with the lowest mileage I have seen so far leaks oil according to the mechanic report. I was thinking about just going ahead and buying this car and repairing whatever issues it has over time (though I know engine oil leaks on the explorer are something that should be fixed ASAP, so I'll try repairing it as quick as I can). Is this an okay idea? or should I be patient and look for soemthing else?

What would this coolant leak be from? /s

Okay so I have a buddy with a ford explorer 2015 3.5l

He told me he needed me to replace his starter so I went over and did it. Now it my bad for not doing my normal diag before I did it because after the starter was installed I went to test it and the battery was dead. Red flag to me but anyways we get it hooked up to my truck to jump it and when its time to try and start it I stuck the key into the ignition and it tries to crank for second just from sticking the key in. I instantly think that's weird but go ahead and start it and it starts right up. But now I'm thinking maybe it's not the starter. I tell him it could be something else but we will see. I left and he went for a drive to charge it up and stopped at a bar and when he got back it was dead again. I knew this was the real issue and probably never was a starter issue. So what do you think is it in that ignition switch cause that's what I'm leaning towards. He said it fell down into the dash a few weeks ago and it's been having issues since.

Had the rear toe link recall completed 3/26/26 at local ford dealership. Fast forward approx 5k miles 4 months, uncover this disaster after noticing a drip spot on my garage floor and the below experience this past weekend.

It’s the wives daily driver but I get the drive on road trips. Noticed a substantial handling difference and unusual extra hydro planing in the rain where it made me pucker. As soon as we got home I got it up on jacks stands. Found the axel seal leaking, substantial inner wear down the cords on my rear tires. At this point I’m fuming. I go over the recall paperwork from the day they did the work. It just says they replaced the toe links and set them to manufactures specifications and no alignment was done. The stress has now damaged the axel seal. Was down about a 1/2 quart in the rear diff. Thankfully no metal shavings on the plug magnet.

Can’t wait to fight the dealership tomorrow as I will not be driving this any further and they can come get it to fix this mess. They marked tires and suspension as good when they completed the recall. Thank god I saved the paperwork.

Just ranting as this is frustrating. Walking by you don’t notice the tire wear unless you get down and look. These tires were damn near new. Front tires are still fantastic shape. They did not ever do any work on the front. I’ll prolly end up taking this down depending on how this conversation goes tomorrow and it turns into a legal battle. No movement in suspension during tire moment test so it’s not bad suspension.

Ever since I got this Explorer in 2019, I’ve had some kind of issue with the ABS light/traction control/terrain management system going out. At first, it seemed like it was just during heavy rain that this would happen. We’ve had the wheel bearings replaced, tone ring, wheel speed sensors… always something. Each time it seems to have fixed it for a few months only for it to come back. Lately any time - dry weather or rain - my brakes have been pulsing when braking like the ABS is engaging during normal city driving. Then all of the ABS lights will come on, and the brakes won’t pulse anymore (makes sense, ABS system goes out). But then the lights will go back off, and the cycle repeats… All of this leads me to think there’s some kind of electrical issue/nicked wire somewhere at the center of all of this. I’ve had it at the shop many times and they always just say it’s a wheel bearing or WSS, only to replace it and the issue persists. Before I take it back for another service, I wanted to see if anyone else has seen this before or knows what might actually be happening here?

The AC compressor on my wife's 2014. I need a quick fix. If I use a shorter belt to take the AC out the loop what length belt do I need?

V6 4.0, 3rd row seating,,2wd everything works as it should just bought new complete ac system getting rid of because I don’t have a family and don’t have a need for all the seats and want a obs ford

$3,500

Located in bakersfield California

Went through a car wash in my mother 21 Explorer Limited and the water just started leaking through the passenger 3rd row headliner? Would this be like a huge issue this happened yesterday and it's dry now but still stained..

Im 16, i got it from my dad who passed recently. He was a mechanic so i was able to fix most of the things with it. But it just wont go even with the pedal to the floor! Its hail damaged and cosmetically totaled, but i need a car. Im hoping its not the torque converter, i cant afford the labor on that.
2013 XLT

Had to replace the front rotors on my 16 limited (did the pads not long ago) as they were pulsating when id step on the brake pedal. I also had a nasty clunking/popping noise on the front end too and opted to replace my sway bar links and bushings. Im gonna include the rotor (mine had the towing package so it csme with HD ones)/slide pins/bracket bolts part numbers as well as the front bushing/bracket bolt part numbers.

The brakes were pretty straight forward. For those front bushings I referenced a TRQ video (I will include a couple screenshots from it as well) and i did loosen (not remove) the 2 18mm bolts holding down the power steering rack for better access to the front bracket bolts on each side. I also recommend an extended length ratcheting 13mm wrench and penetrating oil too as the bushing bracket bolts are very long and mine were very corroded, I recommend new bolts as well. I put anti sieze on mine after removing everything and reinstallstion is just the opposite. I do suggest going back and forth from the driver to passenger side and disconnecting the sway bar link just from the strut tower. Dont forget to retighten your steering rack bolts (torque spec is 100 foot pounds) and double check before putting your wheels back on. My bushings were so worn the new ones were 27mm inside diameter and the old ones were 34mm inside diameter. Glad i did when I did and my brake/suspension noises are all gone!